Aztek Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 (edited) I am experimenting with diffrent jump pads and today, while installing a solid rubber one just above the folded pedal, I started thinking what effect it might have on the battery pack. I mean, the plastic cover is deformable and when the wheel is laying on the side, it presses over the battery pack. Even worse when the wheel falls on the side. I know these are hard cells, not soft packs as in a phone for example, but nevertheless got me thinking about it. Do you have experience and opinion on the matter? Edited July 16, 2021 by Aztek 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 I have no evidence, but I tend to think that a pad mounted low over the sherman BMS may not be the brightest idea. But, we do what we gotta do, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 Hehere's what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 I think it would depend on the model, and more specifically the placement of the battery pack for each model. For example the V10f has the battery pack at the top, where it probably wouldn't be affected by pads. The V11 also has the battery packs separate from anywhere you could put pads. And the KS18L has a plastic case around the pack. The flip side of this is (as @ShanesPlanet mentioned) wheels like the Sherman that had the shells changed due to pressure on the BMS (so putting pressure on that area has the potential for causing issues - particularly if you have the original shells). And it isn't just the battery that can be affected. I recall @Marty Backe dropping a Begode wheel (the EXN?) and the case pressed in against a cooling fan. I suppose the take-away from this is that we should remember that most side panels are not structural, so what's behind them should be considered (to some degree) when making mods or attaching accessories. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 (edited) In this case ks 16xs. I don't really know where the pack is... I haven't opened it yet Edited July 16, 2021 by Aztek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 (edited) This is what it looks like on the inside... if your front pad (the bar thing) is forward of the trolly handle 'pole?', you're out of range of the battery BUT that angled shell attachment (left side, two screw inserts for the shell screws) might be in jeopardy. It's just a hunk of plastic cantilevered into space, but your pad is also very close to the curve in the shell so that transfers some of the load to the shell's edge and it won't bend very easily. The rear puck looks to be over a segment of the pack (where the dot is) and I'd be a little leary of that. I never thought to check if the shell would hit the battery pack but really don't think it will... as I recall it's flat on the insides and just spans between the two angled attachment points. If you do crack the shell, all bets are off! When you flip the XS over, you'll just find this, so there's nothing to worry about on that side. Edited July 16, 2021 by Tawpie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 And for those with the 16X (and haven't opened it yet). It is the same as the 16XS except there are battery packs on both sides (as seen in @Tawpie's first photo above). Basically the 16XS is the 16X with one battery pack removed (and a slightly lower power motor). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 (edited) 18 minutes ago, The Fat Unicyclist said: Basically the 16XS is the 16X with one battery pack removed I called the gray square thing "a lightweight zero wH battery that never needs charging and shouldn't ever self ignite". It was a major pain to get off too. It would be pretty simple to add stuff to keep the shell off the battery, I'm thinking yoga blockish material on top of the pedal hangers, and something to take load off of the cantilevered shell attachment points where the brake (and could be head) lights are. But you would want to be careful not to concentrate stress in any single place. Is your heel puck a wall protector? The thing you put on sheetrock to keep a door knob from bashing a hole in the wall? If so, that's good for 3-4 McGyver points right there. Edited July 17, 2021 by Tawpie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 19 minutes ago, Tawpie said: I called the gray square thing "a lightweight zero wH battery that never needs charging and shouldn't ever self ignite". It was a major pain to get off too. And here I just thought it was ballast, to stop you only being able to ride in left-turn circles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Tawpie said: Is your heel puck a wall protector? Actually, these are two dense anti-vibration disks of rubber, which I will try to jump with. I think they fall a bit higher of your dot on the picture. Maybe I'll have to try with "Kuji pads"... Trouble is I can't seem to find neoprene/soft rubber sheets and strong enough double sticking tape. Edited July 17, 2021 by Aztek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 By the way, I found the tire is a bit closer on the upper left side to the shell and when I lift the right foot for a while, it starts to grind on it melting the plastic a bit and losing rubber from the edge. I don't imagine this can be fixed somehow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 9 minutes ago, Aztek said: I don't imagine this can be fixed somehow? The 16X(S) casing is connected to the motor via the pedal hangers. Removing the outer shells will give you access to the five machine screws (on each side) that secure it. You can see these in @Tawpie's photos above (one above and four below the axle). You may be able to loosen these and adjust your shell position. Failing that you would need to shim your motor axle slightly (to adjust the hanger position), which would also resolve the problem. But I would definitely have a crack with the first option to start with - it is much easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 4 minutes ago, The Fat Unicyclist said: But I would definitely have a crack with the first option to start with - it is much easier. I'll try it, thanks for suggesting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 I removed them for now, but I think I came up with solution: power pads I mean, if there are power pads on top, when falling, the wheel will lay on the pedal and the power pad i.e. no pressure on the side and the underlying battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 48 minutes ago, Aztek said: I removed them for now, but I think I came up with solution: power pads I mean, if there are power pads on top, when falling, the wheel will lay on the pedal and the power pad i.e. no pressure on the side and the underlying battery Yup, exactly! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockyTop Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 Distribution. The larger the base of the pad, the less trouble you will tend to have. The 16x looks like it has stronger side panels than the Sherman. The Sherman panels are flat making it weaker. And the 16X is not nearly as heavy. However if I had to design a jump pad to damage a 16X it would be like the one above. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 19 hours ago, Aztek said: found the tire is a bit closer on the upper left side to the shell Seems I read somewhere that it *might* be offset on purpose. Or maybe I read that it’s easy to get the offset wrong when tightening the pedal hangers. Either way, it shouldn’t rub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 3 hours ago, Tawpie said: 3 hours ago, Tawpie said: * be offset on purpose. If your leading leg is the right, there's an opposite deformation when mounting. It is a fact that it rubs when I mount with the left leg... Seems stupid anyways, even if it was true. Should have been equal and have a bit more space. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 (edited) On 7/17/2021 at 1:54 AM, The Fat Unicyclist said: Basically the 16XS is the 16X with one battery pack removed (and a slightly lower power motor). ...and a different control board with half of the FETs. Edited July 18, 2021 by EUC Custom Power-Pads 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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