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Picked up a used 16X earlier today. It had a broken handle (resolved) and the rim is basically destroyed. 

I was going to shelf the repair until next month, but it is quite a fun little wheel so I may be ordering the rim sooner rather than later.

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Edited by gon2fast
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AND, be sure the Chief Financial Officer knows that having the correct tools is the very reason that the cost of tools are NOT part of the cost of the toy project. My problem is we downsized and

Now I need to watch a 16X break down video as I want to see the balloons!   Well, I was absolutely shocked by the lack of goop in this wheel. Per GW, I thought that it was industry

Picked up a used 16X earlier today. It had a broken handle (resolved) and the rim is basically destroyed.  I was going to shelf the repair until next month, but it is quite a fun little wheel so

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is it rideable? I'd say, beat the crap out of it and keep the old rim until it explodes. Order another of course, but seems like it would make a dandy 'shit kicker' dirt wheel. No knocking the new off, required!:clap3:

Damn man, you need some water? Our water hose is merely decorative...

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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We can't water our lawns in CA anymore. I get dirty looks if people see me watering my plants LOL (technically we get 15 minutes to water after 7PM, but people like to point fingers and judge...).

It is rideable, but one of the three dents is significant. I fear that if I hit the right obstacle the tire will detach from the rim and then I will go splat.

1.

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2.

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3. obviously the winner...

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Ventured out on a mile long ride with 30 PSI in the tire. Did not pop off and the wheel's torque was surprising on inclines. Quite happy with this $700 investment.

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Old wheels get no respect! It is a hill climber for sure… but I sure hope I don’t do that to my rim. If the batteries are good they’ll cover your $700… suckers are spendy and difficult to come by.

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1 hour ago, gon2fast said:

*Add another $200 for replacement parts, but the wheel rides fine at low speeds. 

AND its had a proper burn in test. I'd just about rather a used wheel that needs a simple rim, than gambling on a new one straight off the boat!

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Posted (edited)

Full disclosure - my family was gifted an all expense paid trip to HI next March so the first thing my wife asked me was how I was going to get a wheel over there LOL. Not too worried about shipping a wheel, but I started to realize how much I like my current roster and that they need to stay put. So my plan was to find a used wheel, preferably a first generation MSX. 

There are always EUCs on my local CL site, but currently nothing meets my standards (there is a MCM5, but GW told me I would blow that and the Mten3 up at my weight).

I wanted a 16X since the model was released, but it did not happen. In addition, the model holds its value fairly well so it was never a candidate for my search... even the prices on the used XS models were out of my price range.

Bent rim 16X for less than $1000... I was all over it LOL.

On 6/30/2021 at 10:22 PM, Tawpie said:

If the batteries are good they’ll cover your $700

94% when I received it. 100% after charging (1.5amp) for a couple of hours.

 

22 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

AND its had a proper burn in test.

Yes Sir! 1900.7 miles. This wheel is just getting started. Ironically I think I am going to give it to my wife as it is very similar to my MSP which I rarely ride over 25MPH. I should probably go ahead and paint the new rim teal LOL. 

Edited by gon2fast
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Is it normal for the 16X to beep multiple times when connecting to DB? My wheel normally goes through 5 beeps and will repeat back to back to back if my phone is far away.

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Yep. it beeps annoyingly every time a settings data packet is transferred to or from an app. You'll get used to it. EUCW only beeps twice but DB and KS seem to beep 5 or 6 times.

The voice prompts are annoying as well so I turn them off, I can still hear the beeps. Since you're a GW, I would suggest doing a few trials with tiltback set to something real low like 10 mph to see what too-fast-tiltback feels like, it's not sudden but you do want to know.

And it leaves the control board powered on after it finishes charging so be sure to power cycle it when you disconnect the charger else you'll experience "phantom power drain". Newer firmware may take care of it, or not. I just power cycle and forget it.

Edited by Tawpie
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21 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

You'll get used to it.

But your fellow riders won’t. They’ll put their V11 units in alarms-only silent mode just to one up you. :P

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KS marketing should call it "find my unicycle" (beeps when you get close). Then it'll be a FEATURE!

 

 

a feature that's as useful as a pocket on the back of your shirt, but still...

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3 hours ago, Tawpie said:

Since you're a GW, I would suggest doing a few trials with tiltback

Good call. Totally used to pedal dip, but not the opposite LOL. Took your advice with the voice setting as well. 

One more KS specific question - is there a specific protocol for extending the trolley handle without triggering the cutoff sensor? 

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10 minutes ago, gon2fast said:

One more KS specific question - is there a specific protocol for extending the trolley handle without triggering the cutoff sensor? 

Push the button in the center of the handle and then the handle will extend freely and not activate the cutoff sensor. There are a couple of handle heights that you can let it lock into.

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I think that I figured it out. Any upward pressure/force on the handle activates the sensor (there seems to be a tiny bit of play where it activates). 

Sorry folks, I know that is old news LOL. 

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31 minutes ago, gon2fast said:

I think that I figured it out. Any upward pressure/force on the handle activates the sensor (there seems to be a tiny bit of play where it activates). 

Sorry folks, I know that is old news LOL. 

Im getting used to mine as well. The older style trolley sensor wasnt near as sensitive. This newer 18XL style is UBER touchy. Its not uncommon I go to trolley mine with handle mid point and accidently lift too much..beeeep. I must confess, i do dearly love the trolley and balance of it tho. Just got back from riding mine actualy.

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I made the assumption that once the handle was extended it would not trigger the lift sensor. Nope, did an embarrassing dance in the middle of Best Buy earlier today while someone was pestering me about my wheel LOL. At least I know how it works now. 

Ordered the rim and mud guard last night. I can't seem to put this wheel down so I figured that I should fix it before the tire pops off and I eat pavement.

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The lift sensor can be disabled via any of the apps if that's your poison. It is supposed to work whether or not the handle is extended... when you do the rim change you'll be able to adjust the two-on-each-side straps that hold the trolley's vertical parts. The vertical part needs to be able to slide easily so that the microswitches at the bottom are closed when you lift. And yep, that's an actual balloon, a most peculiar but surprisingly effective water resistance measure. If the straps are too tight the handle supports won't slide up when you lift the wheel and the lift sensor won't be activated. The trolley handle straps are one of the few places where KS used self tapping screws into a plastic boss so be gentle.

When you do crack it open, replace all of the philips heads with m3x8 hex. Makes subsequent surgeries much easier. And use a hole punch to poke holes in the 'pads' for easier access. It's certainly more prettier without shell screw holes scattered about but most of the effort getting the thing into pieces is accessing the shell screws.

 

Edited by Tawpie
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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, slowpoke94133 said:

Hammer it back

Ironically I was looking at the largest dent earlier and was able to see the intact bead which lead me to think the same thing... but eWheels hooked me up with some replacement parts so I will install the new rim and see if I can pound the old rim back into shape and throw it in the spare parts pile versus the scrap pile.

 

 

Edited by gon2fast
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19 hours ago, gon2fast said:

I was absolutely shocked by the lack of goop in this wheel.

There's no law against adding a tube or three... :lol:. At least, not that I know of.

the one place where your might consider replacing the included goop is the screws that hold the trolley handle onto its vertical supports. The screws do back themselves out, and when they do there's a fiberglass rod that'll fall out. You don't want that to happen (I had to backtrack to find mine). I have a small piece of gorilla tape stuffed in there to keep the screw from leaving. Not an issue if you don't remove the RTV plug KS put in there (there's really no reason to do that unless you want to tighten up the handle portion)

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I do find the trolley handle to be a bit loose so I was going to look at the brace/strap that hold the supports when I swap the rim. I like the Gorilla Tape fix, going to apply it if I actually mess with the current setup. The prior owner broke off one of the trolley handle screws so the the rod was exposed when I received the wheel. Had no idea what it was or its functionality. 

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The Fiberglas rods (one on each side) transfer the handle button to the release mechanism so you can extend or retract the handle. If you lose or break one, you can’t raise or lower the handle anymore and you’re out $30 for a new handle assembly.

I tightened the straps too much last time I was in there, so my lift switch won’t work until I open it back up. Don’t be like me. It is very nice to be able to lift the wheel over a log without having to turn it off first… I didn’t appreciate how handy that feature is.

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I will take your advice and leave "well enough" alone with messing with the straps/braces.

I am getting more used to the wheel. I am sending it through the local trails much faster (flat & groomed). I even took it to bounce over some tree stumps I like to launch my MSP and V11 over.

Now if I could get my hands on a 18" version of this build with 2700Wh+ battery I would be done with GW today LOL.

 

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