Fan failure on the RS' models

[Darren0128]

Just curious how wide-spread this issue is.  I have read several reports of fan housings/blades breaking in ther new RS models and it has happened to me as well.  It seems like the fan (or at least the placement) was an afterthought here.  

In searchig for a better fan (which is hard concidering the stock fan has a huge amout of airflow), I ran across this.     

"DC0402012V2B-2T0 - Fan Tubeaxial 12VDC Square - 40mm L x 40mm H Ball 19.8 CFM"

I ordered 1 as a replacement to the stock fan.  According to the datasheet the material its made from is "Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT), Glass Filled".  I am hoping this fan will be a little more shock resistant than the standard plastic that most other fans are made of.  Any thoughts?

 

Just thought I would share this as I think this is a pretty common issue.

 

DC0402012V2B-2T0 (20mm replacement fan) - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wakefield-vette/DC0402012V2B-2T0/11593034

  On a side note, I also ran across a 15mm version of the same fan as above, that uses half the power but still has a >10CFM rating...was thinking of hooking up 2 of these in place of the single 20mm stock fan. 

DC0401512H2B-2T0 (15mm fan) - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wakefield-vette/DC0401512H2B-2T0/11593250

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Regarding your side note,

2 hours ago, Darren0128 said:

On a side note, I also ran across a 15mm version of the same fan as above, that uses half the power but still has a >10CFM rating...was thinking of hooking up 2 of these in place of the single 20mm stock fan.

Regarding that...it's hard to test CFM (as most people don't have the equipment to do so), so it can be "generously [over-]rated" without much consequence.

It takes an ever increasing amount of power to move more air due to pressure differentials, so two 10 CFM fans probably won't move as much air as one 20 CFM fan as they don't have the fan blade surface area (resulting in increased fan body thickness) to build that pressure.

When sourcing fans I don't look at "Rated CFM" as that's usually exaggerated (and your actual CFM depends on how the fan is used), I look at current draw. The startup draw is what is listed, running current is about 75% of that depending on the application.

I also source ball-bearing rather than sleeve-bearing fans, they tend to handle the load better and last longer. (mind you this is for tiny electric applications. the opposite is true in larger applications where sleeve bearings coupled with axial thrust bearings support higher speeds though generate more heat and require more lubrication, but it depends on the temperature they're used at.) (read more)

[RockyTop]

I do not know what kind of fan it had. I can tell you that the thin fans are trash. 

30mm X 30mm X 10mm - is So so, it works. 

40mm x 40mm x 10mm  - is absolute trash, one human hair will stop it. 

40mm x 40mm X 20mm  - is very dependable, talking finger damage. 

 

[SorenStarr]

Im trying out a slight shell modification so that the fan doesn't hit the outer shell. On the little foam piece in the picture you can see the where the shell can press on the fan. I took out part of that area that was rubbing and sanded it down. Hopefully it'll make a difference. 

[Simply_Striking]

15 hours ago, SorenStarr said:

Im trying out a slight shell modification so that the fan doesn't hit the outer shell. On the little foam piece in the picture you can see the where the shell can press on the fan. I took out part of that area that was rubbing and sanded it down. Hopefully it'll make a difference. 

I actually moved my fan(after 2 broke) to where yours is below the board, been keeping an eye on the temp so far the highest I have seen is 130. Thinking of adding a second smaller fan where the original one was when summer rolls in. Just funny know where to connect it.