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V11 Overload at power up after repair


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Yesterday I got my v11 back from repair, which if not covered under warranty would have cost me just over $2,000!!

 

Anyway, I got the wheel, updated the firmware, then went out for a nice ride then put it on the charger.  A few hours later while charging the wheel beeped and said "overload, please get off"  So I unplugged the charger and went to bed.  This morning as soon as I turn it on it tilts back and say "overload, please get off"

 

Now this is all the wheel will do, repeating the same error message 3 times.

 

 

curious if anyone else has seen this kind of issue before?

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1 hour ago, madhatt said:

99% capacity

Voltage 85.9

The V11 is an 84V wheel - 85.9V is gravely overcharged!

So no wonder the v11 is behaving strangely and does not want you to use the wheel.

Question is now if the internal voltage measurement is way off (my personall guess) or the charger gravely misadjusted.

1 hour ago, madhatt said:

And detailed view shows 86.5v for both packs with work status "normal"

 

Wow - even more voltage and "normal"!?

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Interesting, I did notice while chartering that my charger got extremely hot, like almost to hot to hold. Any idea what the culprit may be? Think I can run down the batteries some how, and would that fix it?

 

it literally just came back from repair one day ago, 2 brand new batteries, new controller card, and a “new” motor, wonder if those batteries are hosed now…

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Definitely sounds like the voltage measurement needs calibration. For me it was done remotely, by an Inmotion employee guiding me through the process through Telegram. Contacting your seller is probably the smartest way of starting the process.

 Measuring the charger’s output voltage would of course be a good thing to do anyway.

Edited by mrelwood
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So, just to follow up, I reached out to the vendor and should hear something back tomorrow. 

With nothing else to do this morning I was fiddling with wheel and noticed that in the new firmware the wheel doesn't go crazy when you lift up on the wheel without first tapping the kill switch.  So took two ropes and hung the wheel a foot off the ground, which made the wheel turn at like 2mph.  I then turned on the light (and with it the fan) and lit is spin... and it did for 8 solid hours! I thought, ok, lets check the voltage now, still 86....  So I grabbed my dead iOS devices and started charging.  I was able to charge my ipad mini from 20%, and my iphone 11 from 30%, along with the light and spinning wheel before I saw the voltage drop to 84.5v.  the app still shows 100% power as well.

 

I was pleasantly surprised when I took the wheel down from it's makeshift hammock and powered it up and the damn thing did not bend over to 30 tilt!

I'm still going to work with the vendor to see what in the hell could have happened, and if my power charger might have something to do with it.

 

Of course, with my luck this all comes together at 11pm on Sunday.

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This exact thing happened to us yesterday as well.

Replaced motherboard, updated fw, tried to ride. Please repair, no issue in diagnostics. pack 1 80.2v pack 2 80.4v

Tried to charge ~30min charging voltage 86.5 charger still red. took it down, voltage 85.9 app shows 99%

When trolleying the wheel voltage jumps up and down between 84v and 90v! couple overload, please repair warnings after each turn on but sometimes not immediately.

I rode it still with huge tiltback as I'm sure it just shows wrong voltage, managed to get up to 3000w power without issue.

We are waiting for a response from IM as well.

@mrelwoodIf you have the conversation about the calibration, can you share it with us?

Edited by Ádám Szitás
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31 minutes ago, Ádám Szitás said:

@mrelwoodIf you have the conversation about the calibration, can you share it with us?

I had the issue when I received my wheel last fall. I don’t think the details are important anyway, so I’m hesitant to bother searching for the conversation. Also, IM could have a different method now.

The seller will surely work it out with the customer and IM. It will probably require installing an alternate IM app, and a scheduled time when the wheel should be fully charged and powered on. IM will then calibrate the wheel’s voltage through the alternate app.

 

 When I had to artificially lower the voltage, I lift the wheel up and quickly accelerated full forward, then full backward, etc. I’m sure the constant accelerations and brakings take more battery than just a stable speed without any resistance. I only needed to do it for a minute or two.

Edited by mrelwood
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Yes, This issue is now resolved for me.

The underlying issue was that the batteries had to be calibrated to work.  Basically, when they installed the new batteries in the wheel they did not fully charge the batteries, and/or apparently didn't remember this calibration step.  I was instructed to fully charge the wheel (which made it non-functional)  then at exactly 7.30PM last night My Vendor called me.  He was in communication with the inmotion folks back in china and had me enter the app and go into "remote diagnostics" mode by going to the diagnostic page of the app and doing a long press on the diagnose button.  This brought up a dialog stating that the remote diag was running.  Then I just had to wait on hold for about 10 minutes or so while the inmotion folks logged into my wheel and did whatever they needed to do.  After this was done I just rebooted the wheel and it's been running ever since.

 

 

Though, I do now have a side question.  My motor was also replaced.  They called and asked if it was ok if they replaced it with a rebuilt motor which I was fine with so long as the new motor had the same warranty as a new one would.  I also expected it to be replaced with the same version.  My wheel came with the 6916 bearings, but my returned motor came with the 6816 bearing.  Is this something I should care about?  the 6816 are significantly smaller but I'm not sure if that's bad, good, or neither.  The replacement motor works / looks fine, thought it seems a bit more rough in the 1-3mph range, especially when accelerating, but above 3mph it seems fine.

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3 hours ago, madhatt said:

My wheel came with the 6916 bearings, but my returned motor came with the 6816 bearing.  Is this something I should care about?

No, as long as they are 2RS shielded and not the original metal shielded Z type, it doesn’t seem to matter if the size is 6816 or 6916.

 Great that they got your voltage problem fixed!

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The 61816 ball bearing has lower load capacity than the 61916. Both are fine. With max. 120 kg load and smooth riding the 61816 will last about 139 000 hours on average. Max. load and all time jumping gives about 2 800 hours for the 61816 and 17 300 hours for the 61916. Because of the smaller mean diameter 61816 is 1 W more efficient than the 61916.

Edited by Eucner
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