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Converting a Mten3 to tubeless operation.


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3 hours ago, Gasmantle said:

Thanks, I did consider that but the valve stem has now completely withdrawn itself into the wheel rim so I think unless I can convert it to tubeless then the tyre will need to be removed.

You can typically fix or replace a tube and only need remove one side of the tire bead from rim. YOu will definitely have to remove the rim from the device. Tubeless conversion would require you remove the tire completely. DOn't be so worried, it wont be too tough. Just buy a set of tire removal tools that are designed for dirtikes. 12" steel tire irons will defeat the mten in a heartbeat.

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3 minutes ago, Gasmantle said:

Thanks guys.

Does this tube look to be the one I need? 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124303442570?ul_noapp=true

The seller is a bit vague about it's suitability but I think it ought to be ok.

Looks about right so long's the Kugoo M4 has a 10" tire. If yes, they're either 2.5 or 3 width plus most scoot tubes have bent valves too. So verify all that & you're golden.

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2 minutes ago, Scottie888 said:

Looks about right so long's the Kugoo M4 has a 10" tire. If yes, they're either 2.5 or 3 width plus most scoot tubes have bent valves too. So verify all that & you're golden.

I've managed to find the same one for £7 and ordered one - not sure if it will fit but I need one desperately and at that price if it is the wrong size I'm not losing a lot.

Watch this space :popcorn::popcorn:

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4 minutes ago, Gasmantle said:

I've managed to find the same one for £7 and ordered one - not sure if it will fit but I need one desperately and at that price if it is the wrong size I'm not losing a lot.

Watch this space :popcorn::popcorn:

Do as @ShanesPlanet suggested & get yourself a set of 12" tire irons. The hardest part maybe in disassemble/reassemble the wheel portion. Goodluck 

O & I've found rubbing talc powder on the tube when inserting into tire helps in reducing pinching. May work or may not but I can't see the harm.

Edited by Scottie888
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I always buy two tubes. Or at least have one extra on hand. At a mere $7, it pains me to think what happens if i pinch one during install. Same with cheap electrical components. ALWAYS buy at least ONE more than you need. If you pay shipping, it makes even more sense. 

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14 hours ago, Gasmantle said:

@Scottie888So far the only I've been able tube I've been able to find ships from China - I'm currently waiting a reply from an ebay seller who has what I think I need.

Like an idiot last week when I got the puncture I ordered what I thought was the correct tube but it is 10" internal diameter and obviously doesnt fit - I accept that is my stupidity though.

It is not your stupidity - it is the blatantly false specs EUC manufacturers use for tire size. The Mten3 is NOT a 10" wheel!

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15 minutes ago, MurseMGV said:

It is not your stupidity - it is the blatantly false specs EUC manufacturers use for tire size. The Mten3 is NOT a 10" wheel!

Good point! It would certainly be heavenly if all mfgrs adhere to a single standard of measurement as its all over the place as of now. That said, any escooter with claimed 10" tires will fit the Mten3 so there are many choices out there if one knows where how to look.

But, we shouldn't have to though. Woulda coulda shoulda works great in theory except for those pesky diabolical mfgrs confusing the f*^k outta us to sell more shaat!

Edited by Scottie888
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https://more4motion.com/products/valve-for-mini-pro-tire

I'm going through the same process now. I got the valve stem similar to above from eBay. Fits without trouble. It's kind of expensive just for one measly valve stem when factoring in shipping. It's in the U.S. but probably ships to U.K.

Getting the tire off and on was a struggle but it wasn't too bad. Those small tire irons definitely helped greatly. Now I'm sort of stuck trying to get the tubeless tire to bead properly and pumped up. I can't get a proper seal. 

Edited by BlueCrow
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12 hours ago, BlueCrow said:

 Now I'm sort of stuck trying to get the tubeless tire to bead properly and pumped up. I can't get a proper seal. 

If you can get to an air compressor that will do it. Usually you need a good blast of air. Hand pumps and the like won’t usually work. 

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I managed to get a hand pump to work just yesterday though it was an ordeal. What I did was to feed a rope around the circumference of the tire, then tie it and stick one of my large tire levers into it then start twisting until it tightened down in the middle of the tire tread. This forces the sides of the tire into the rim. Then I just kept pumping and tightening until it started to hold pressure. At that point can slowly untwist the rope and keep adding more air.

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2 hours ago, Gasmantle said:

I'm led to believe that all newer wheels are tubed, was the tubeless arrangement problematic in older models ?

The newest Mten3s are tubeless. I believe they started tubeless, went to tube, and now are back to tubeless. For biking and my scooter I much prefer tubeless. I am new to EUC, but I can't see why tubes are ever an advantage if you have a rim that is properly designed for a tubeless tire.

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On 3/14/2021 at 1:02 AM, BlueCrow said:

https://more4motion.com/products/valve-for-mini-pro-tire

I'm going through the same process now. I got the valve stem similar to above from eBay. Fits without trouble. It's kind of expensive just for one measly valve stem when factoring in shipping. It's in the U.S. but probably ships to U.K.

Getting the tire off and on was a struggle but it wasn't too bad. Those small tire irons definitely helped greatly. Now I'm sort of stuck trying to get the tubeless tire to bead properly and pumped up. I can't get a proper seal. 

I ordered two of these valve stems. It made sense because the shipping was was almost the cost of one part. I didn't have to drill the rim. I'm sure this is the valve stem that Gotway used when they sold these wheels as tubeless. My mten3 never held air. When I yanked the tube it had an installation pinch hole in it. I ran the tubeless setup for a few days without sealant. The tire would run down in two days. I put about 4oz of sealant in and now it's been nearly two months and 100 miles without needing to top off the pressure. I have it about 50 psi. 

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On 3/15/2021 at 10:52 PM, Unipilot69 said:

I ordered two of these valve stems. It made sense because the shipping was was almost the cost of one part. I didn't have to drill the rim. I'm sure this is the valve stem that Gotway used when they sold these wheels as tubeless. My mten3 never held air. When I yanked the tube it had an installation pinch hole in it. I ran the tubeless setup for a few days without sealant. The tire would run down in two days. I put about 4oz of sealant in and now it's been nearly two months and 100 miles without needing to top off the pressure. I have it about 50 psi. 

We used to use tire 'bead sealer' where valves came thru rims. Usually wasnt needed, but some rims tended to corrode and we'd wire brush then add that stuff. The neat thing about sealants is that the pressure pushes them into the gaps and then BAM, sealed. Its good to know that perhaps one need NOT drill for a valve and maybe the stem will seal with some for of sealant. Im not a fan of tire slimes, but it seems thats also a solution. I'd bet money that weatherstrip adhesive would also work. Just as long as its a flexible sealant, I presume.

How do you like the ride? DO you notice any difference? Im quite shocked if a person could feel a difference. Are people going tubeless because the tire casing is eating tubes at low pressure and or higher tire deflections? Mine an old tubeless, but curiosity has me wondering.

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On 3/14/2021 at 3:25 PM, Kurtosis said:

I managed to get a hand pump to work just yesterday though it was an ordeal. What I did was to feed a rope around the circumference of the tire, then tie it and stick one of my large tire levers into it then start twisting until it tightened down in the middle of the tire tread. This forces the sides of the tire into the rim. Then I just kept pumping and tightening until it started to hold pressure. At that point can slowly untwist the rope and keep adding more air.

My MTen3 came tubeless, but I've had to change the tire twice.  I could not get the bead to seal no matter how hard I tried with a hand pump, even binding the tire like you describe.  I simply couldn't get air into the tire fast enough.  What I eventually got to work was to remove the valve pin.  This let air flow freely into the tire and the bead easily popped right into place.  And to top it off, the valve pin remover came with the MTen3, along with the valve extension. (Admittedly, I didn't know what that little bit was when I got it. Glad I kept it.)

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Many thanks to those who offered advice, I've now repaired my wheel :)

I was eventually able to find a replacement tube so I took that option, to be honest the job wasn't as difficult as I expected. I decided to follow the suggestion of @ShanesPlanet(the resident Mten guru) and bought a set of 12" tyre levers, they were invaluable and made the job relatively easy.

Let's hope I get more than 20 miles out of it this time !

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Quote

 

After a grand total of 38 miles I now have my 2nd puncture.

I'll order another tube and repair it but if the same happens again I'll try and sell the wheel and buy something I can rely on. I'm really disappointed with this wheel, I now have no confidence in it :(

I appreciate I'm probably just unlucky but 2 bad experiences in just a few hours of riding have taken the shine off things.

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2 hours ago, Gasmantle said:

After a grand total of 38 miles I now have my 2nd puncture.

I'll order another tube and repair it but if the same happens again I'll try and sell the wheel and buy something I can rely on. I'm really disappointed with this wheel, I now have no confidence in it :(

I appreciate I'm probably just unlucky but 2 bad experiences in just a few hours of riding have taken the shine off things.

That definitely sucks, but it is not the wheel, it is the tire. Clearly that tire is some weak ass rubber.

Also, some important points: first, when you change a tire like that you 100% need to run your fingers carefully along the entire inside of the tire to see if the sharp object is still embedded. With bike tires it is very common that the spike causing the puncture is still in the tire and, if you don’t remove that when you change the tube, you will just puncture the new tube. Second, did you pump up the last tire to see the hole(s)? You need to make sure the flat is not being caused by a pinch/snakebite, which would usually show as two little holes on either side of the tube. If that is happening, your tire pressure is too low.

Good luck.

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I also struggled with mten tubes popping.  According to ewheels it is caused because the tube moves inside the tire and eventually rubs through.  It tends to happen more quickly when you are a heavy rider.  They suggested a crazy town tire pressure in the 50-60 psi range.  I just converted to tubeless and never had another problem.

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@GasmantleSorry to hear bout your terrible experience, I know how frustrated I'd be in the same situation. Luckily I've had a totally different experience on my Mten3 which have not had any flats nor issues with tires. Other inherent issues but thats the nature of the beast more so than an external factor.

Either you ride on 'prickly' surfaces or perhaps its the tube vs tubeless argument as it just so happens that mine is the tubeless version. Personally I find it's stiff as heck with almost zero shock absorption & so besides being grating on the body, I find it has a tendency to throw me out/off even on little bumps. But no flats on almost 500km. Thats 500kms shared btwn 3 wheels on the later 1/2 of last year. Its quite a bit riding IMO considering its limited range & esp since I only took it out for no particular purpose other than just for the heck of it.

Since the 10x3 tire is pretty common amongst escoots as well, perhaps changing to another type/make may make a difference. Not sure if it'll fit but I've oft considered a semi knobby personally. Or tubeless conversion which has its own merits in that punctures are much easily patched with plugs.

FWIW I also have not had flat issues on all of my wheels. Perhaps it is the riding surfaces.

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