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Jia Rui JR-T450 adjustable charger.


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Jia Rui JR-T450 450W adjustable charger.

Disclaimer: I lack the knowledge to properly review a charger, so take this as "impressions". if someone more knowledgable can get anything from the pictures or has other information it would be great to add it here.

The Jia Rui brand seem to be under YZpower (the most complete lineup is seen there).

Quality wise it feels more solid from the outside (better finish, thicker cables) and from my limited knowledge the inside seem to have better solder and more white goo than YZ branded. Mosfet, heatsink and capacitors are beefier. Spins fan on and off toward the end of charge as voltage lowers and it starts again.. Not sure if this allows for balancing to happen.

For reference, some pictures of inside the JR-T450.

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DSC09834.thumb.JPG.6b2f14cac649dd1abd627b53da0a3498.JPG
 

Edited by null
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  • null changed the title to Jia Rui JR-T450 adjustable charger.
  • 3 weeks later...

I got a JR-T450 as well. It does feel well made, solid, with great cooling efficiency and the idea to be able to adjust the self-stopping charging level and/or the speed to get there is very useful. However all depends on how well the device is calibrated for your vehicles. I got mine from a dealer on Aliexpress that offers to customize the chargers according to your needs. I provided all the details but he just sent me a default non calibrated unit, provided no after-sale support and even insulted me for reporting the issues. Aliexpress is no Amazon... The refund was about 20% of what I paid for it, without adding shipping and local taxes.

I think this charger would be the best if we knew how to calibrate it and adding some output adapters to adjust it as we change vehicles with different needs within a range. I tried to contact the manufacturer, consulted on Alibaba and got back to the seller, all without results. I opened the charger and the only section I found that may be related to its calibration are three small blue potentiometers (see image 5 on the your first post, and image 2 on the second post). If you remove the silicone from the top, you will access their small screw where to adjust them. From the edge to the interior of the charger they are one type 202 (2KOhms), and two type 102 (1KOhms). Without instructions nor support, I was left to try and error. If we label them P1, P2 and P3, all I noticed is that when the charger is On and the output plug is not connected, to adjust clockwise P1 increases the output Voltage regardless of the knobs (% nor A knobs). If the output plug is connected to a battery, adjusting P1 does not change anything on the charger's display. Therefore the display may be showing the actual voltage of the battery rather than the charging output V?
P2 did nothing noticeable on the display of the charger regardless the two Knobs settings. Adjusting P3, anticlockwise only when connected to a battery and the % knob was set to 80%, it increases the output Amps and also affects the voltage in a lower amplitude per turn of the screw compared to P1. But on all other combinations (output plug not connected, other %Knob positions etc) did nothing noticeable when adjusting P3. So it is not as simple as expecting that P1 sets the 100% position, P2 the 90% and P3 the 80% level.
Messing I was able just to make the charger to turn Green when not connected to a battery. At least one step forward and better than it was received... but nowhere near to charge safely my vehicles.

Lesson learned: even the best device is a no go when lacking form a reliable support.

 

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31 minutes ago, GPSchile said:

If we label them P1, P2 and P3, all I noticed is that when the charger is On and the output plug is not connected, to adjust clockwise P1 increases the output Voltage regardless of the knobs (% nor A knobs).

So it's the maximum charge voltage. Should be set to 4.2V times the cell serial count. Like 84V for 20s configurations.

39 minutes ago, GPSchile said:

If the output plug is connected to a battery, adjusting P1 does not change anything on the charger's display. Therefore the display may be showing the actual voltage of the battery rather than the charging output V?

The charging consists of a C(onstant)C(urrent) stage followed by a C(onstant)V(oltage) stage. So P1 sets the maximum reachable voltage at the end of the CV stage.

The display shows the charger output voltage which equals the battery voltage once it is connected. The goal of charging is to bring the battery to this maximum charger voltage adjusted by P1 and shown on the display without battery connected.

43 minutes ago, GPSchile said:

Adjusting P3, anticlockwise only when connected to a battery and the % knob was set to 80%, it increases the output Amps and also affects the voltage in a lower amplitude per turn of the screw compared to P1.

So P3 adjust the maximum current for the CC stage.

Do not ovrdue increasing this max current to higher values as this could easily fry the charger - P3 is for adjusting not changing this charger to a high amp power charger!

46 minutes ago, GPSchile said:

P2 did nothing noticeable on the display of the charger regardless the two Knobs settings.

So this leaves current threshold adjustment for the green led for P2. Should be around 60mA per paralleled cell. For example for the V11 with a afair 20s4p config 4*60mA=240mA.

51 minutes ago, GPSchile said:

So it is not as simple as expecting that P1 sets the 100% position, P2 the 90% and P3 the 80% level.

These positions (most likely) change the chargers mode of operation. Like 100% is the normal charging with full CC and CV stage.

80 or 90% could be just the CC stage, the other either a shortened CC stage or just a partial CV stage?

As reference one detailed analysis/posts of charger adjustment:

Some more details on batteries (and charging):

 

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16 minutes ago, Chriull said:

The display shows the charger output voltage which equals the battery voltage once it is connected. The goal of charging is to bring the battery to this maximum charger voltage adjusted by P1 and shown on the display without battery connected.

exactly, that is what I did in my attempt to set my charger. While not plugged to the battery I set the % Knob to 100% and P1 until reaching 84.0 considering a 20S battery format. No doubt, P3 is crazy. It can reach 9A :o

I am testing with a 20S battery pack, not an EUC, with a wide range step-down DC-DC5V connected to a usb fan. I added a fuse socked to protect my step-down board and have already burned a couple fuses. Crazy, I know... and it takes so long time to discharge the battery pack in order to perform a new test...  but it is the best I have and I am locked down due to a surge of Covid on my region.

So I turned cockwise P3 to decrease the output current to a safe level and start again doing tests until reaching 5A that is the intended max current for this charger. I am starting doing this by setting the Amps Knob to 1 and adjusting, then 2 and adjusting unti-clockwise until reaching 5A output again, etc until reaching 5A of output current when setting the knob to 5.
If I reach to that point alive and nothing burned, then we will be left only with P2. But as the charger display does not show any change when adjusting P2, I am left in the dark. I do not want to "tests" this stuff on my V11 just to see the readings on the app while adjusting P2 on different positions of the %Knob. I was expecting it would behave as an adjustable resistor that adds to P1 a fixed amount of voltage decrease in order lower the max output voltage when the %Knob is changed to 90% and 80%. But I am just speculating at this point. Perhaps P2 performs differently, more like what you described.
My understanding for the V11 is that the Inmotion app shows 80% of battery level when reached the total value reaches 79.3V (not the value shown for each of two batteres).  For 90% it corresponds about 80.6V.  For 100% anything  >82.5V. But I got these readings when using this unfit charger. So, I may have to check all this by using the original charger. 

Thanks so much for all your inputs and I will report here on my progress

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On 4/24/2021 at 6:09 PM, GPSchile said:

No doubt, P3 is crazy. It can reach 9A

It is probably for lower voltages, the charger does 450W (if the name is an indication) so it could do 50V at 9A. (AFAIK)

(Thanks for sharing BTW. You can also look for Luna charger (the same family) there are some discussions about it on other forums)
(here, here, here for example)

 

p1jSL4O.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

I have buyed this charger for Dualtron. Here is few videos with charging. I found, that voltage is not showed and measured correctly, especialy on max voltage it is problem, because 67.2V on charger is 67.6V measured with multimeter and showed on scooter display too. Next problem is, that if I started charging fully charged battery, charger voltage is over max and so it seems, that charger never cut-off charing, because "cant reach" max voltage 67.2V, that is below current voltage 67.3V.

Here I make few videos:

Last mile charging with cut-off: https://youtu.be/iPvjcrdnfU0

Overvoltage charging: https://youtu.be/ewSiGWnSMjc

Overvoltage of scooter: https://youtu.be/xM0XLDpN0YA

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Only time, when charger is warm (not hot, resp. hot while is weather hot too) is, while charging is automaticaly stopped, because cooling is stopped too, but charger still have about 10W power consumtion (based on information from Tapo smart socket), so, it generate heat.

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