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I'm thinking.. "What?" Track-riding unicycle.


EUC Extreme

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What if you do For example, 18" Gotway own electrical parts.
RC helicopter gyro with head lock enabled. A large sensor speed control.
Gotway's own engine.
Voltage could be increased. Motor yes take it.
Lipo batteries.
Charging the battery for approximately 20 minutes to be successful even if it is big.
In the meantime, could actually fill up and take a breath.
 
My point is that, using this system, the tire should be made, which does not have the speed limiter, or any other unnecessary :)
It's just raw power and a crazy driver.
 
Indeed, I strongly believe that. 18 "EUC should not go much faster than 40kmh.
Then we can start to drive the track driving on asphalt.
Such as motorcycles. Only the lower track. For example, micro cars intended.
 
Any ideas?
But is not safety-related: D
Unicycle downfall is responsible for almost the same as a motorcycle. Land disappears under the feet of the driver and collapses towards the ground. Falling down does not occur in head first, because the feet are the source of a different direction than the rest of the body.
When the tire goes off, it does not press the brake, but the driving force ceases.
However.
 
Motorcycling is a dangerous, and yet it is a hobby.
I would like to engage in the same unicycle.
And I believe that in the future we have more :)
First, you should develop a product which it could be practiced.
First, to create a product. Since then, the market opens.
 
 
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I am not crazy enough to play in that sport, but I would watch you do it vee73!  :P

 

The first step is to get more people who can ride electric unicycles. Everywhere I go people ask me about it, so it should be possible to sell a lot of them!

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@Vee73

 

Since you have plenty of wheels, I am just checking with you.

Wondering if the Firewheels pedals are interchangeable.  I found my TG-F3 pedals are not that good (small, slippery when wet). I liked the contoured pedals of Firewheel.  First of all, are they universal in terms of nuts and bolts? Can I fit Firewheel's pedals to say, Gotway 14? I'm also wondering if any vendor is selling just pedals as a replacement part. I just need bigger and comfortable pedals with good grip. I understand we can stick grip tape but need larger replacement pedals. Any ideas?

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I'll try to look at the next few days could FW pedals agree GW14".

I intend to put Gotway and Rockwheel pedals such screws. They would be just a few millimeters in sight.

 

https://www.google.fi/search?q=pid%C3%A4tinruuvi&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=543&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=piEsVY3ON6r5ywOK4IHIDw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ

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@PP

I just took measures and in fact, Firewheel's pedals are... less large than TG's pedals. On the FW, your feet rest on all the surface, whereas on the TG, the surface near the wheel is unusable because of the protrusion of the support.

This guy has an made comfortable (and uglyyyy) pedals  (see original link, with video : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic920_securite-anti-derapage.html )

 

2015-03-25-18-40-35.jpg

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Getting back to topic, a supercharged wheel would be great fun, and not dangerous if you have good protections (eg biker's vest & trousers).

 

I am nearly certain the shutting down on Gotways is due to the stupid BMS and not the controller, so using small LiPos with high discharge rates (say 1A 100C), would give a good short ride at very high speed with sensational feeling and without unexpected cutoff.

Voltage can be boosted without risk to 18S instead of 16S for additional power & speed (but not more, because of the breakdown voltage of the controller's power mosfets).

 

If you want to go tuning for such devil machines, I can help.

Imagine a wet t-shirt contest with candidates riding them, it's a killing!

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You mean, only the voltage raising would Gotway more top speed?
Interesting :)
This would be really easy to try an external battery.
How about that .. I have 3 pieces of the same kind of 6S 3700mAh Lipo-60-120C
Hmm .. Again, I think ..  :rolleyes:
This external battery pack could also be a permanent solution. Original batteries can be left in place. And they could still be used. Then, when you want more speed, turns the external battery. Hmmm ..
This could work.
 
But whether it would be no way to Gotway 18" could increase the speed of its own components?
Somehow, by manipulating the switch-off. Or something.
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You may get away with increasing the voltage slightly, say one or possibly two cells per battery pack but if you try doubling the voltage with an external pack wired in series instead of parallel you will definately fry your control board.

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You may get away with increasing the voltage slightly, say one or possibly two cells per battery pack but if you try doubling the voltage with an external pack wired in series instead of parallel you will definately fry your control board.

hobby16 didn't talk about putting 2 battery packs into series which would result in doubling the output voltage. It was just discussed that the 16S pack could be replaced by a 18S pack in order to increase the voltage.

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hobby16 didn't talk about putting 2 battery packs into series which would result in doubling the output voltage. It was just discussed that the 16S pack could be replaced by a 18S pack in order to increase the voltage.

I was referring more to vee73's post. :)

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:)
It is clear that the voltage can be doubled.
We talked about 3x6S Lipo.
Lipo is connected externally, and at the same time the internal deactivated, and vice versa.
At the same time they should not be connected.
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You mean, only the voltage raising would Gotway more top speed?

Increasing voltage AND using LiPos would increase power and acceleration. And maybe speed (depending on the software limitation).

 

Indeed, LiIons have lower max current (because of their inherently higher internal resistance) than LiPos so the voltage has a tendency to drop when you accelerate. On FW for example, look at your indicator when riding, you can change from 90% down to 50% then back again to 90% when speeding strongly then decelerating, a clear sign of power limitation by internal resistance of batteries, something you won't have with 100C LiPos.

 

In fact, for a supercharged wheel, huge accelerations might probably be as fun as max speed, the former is more easy to tune than the latter. Max speed depend on the max frequency of the PWM of the controller board, a parameter limited by commutation loss at the Mosfet, so the designer will limit that frequency in the firmware.

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Yes acceleration and performance increase Lipo battery.
This voltage drop in the load is one reason why I want all of my unicycle in the highest battery capacity. It will slightly reduce the voltage drop.
 
But, on the top speed of the rise I'm not so sure. Because, I suspect the limiter to be programmed to turn off the engine specified in the signal.
 
This signal should be manipulated. If there is one.
Maybe cut off the signal completely.
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I don't think that any wheel actually turns off the wheel at a certain speed. It's more a case that people are pushing to and beyond their limits.

The power in such a small package is finite. It will improve in time with even higher power magnets, lower resistance coils and smaller more powerful batteries but presently you are limited by the technology of the moment.

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I've tested the engine shutdown at full and just under the battery. Also, a flat road and a hill.
Always shutdown the same speed.
With this information, I do not easily believe that the battery performance is related to this in any way.  :)
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I'm wondering if there is a mechanism/trick to test the wheels to the maximum limits WITHOUT being on them? Like riding the wheel on treadmill. Or something like that. That way we can still judge the wheels capability for the record and know when and when not push the limits while you are ACTUALLY riding. 

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 Because, I suspect the limiter to be programmed to turn off the engine specified in the signal.

 

 

It's a suspicion, not a certainty.

Imagine the programmer's motive : "I want to protect you from too high speeds, so I... turn off the engine"! The more I think about it, the more I find this crazy.

Hell, why do this ? Why not simply let the motor keep the max speed, no more, no less ???

 

 

 

 

Always shutdown the same speed.
 

Not true for Firewheel. I have the Firewheel shut down at very low speed (< 5km) or at higher speeds. Others had the shutdown on climbing, etc. Others have a shutdown nearly immediately after mounting because the wheel had been left in cold temperatures the night before...

And we know for sure the BMS shuts down and not the controller because

1) after shutdown, you can't restart the wheel, until you plug in the charger, even if the battery indicator shows 20% or more. It means the BMS has latched in its protection mode and delivers no more power to the controller.

2) when shunting the BMS mosfets, there is no shutdown anymore. I have made a tutorial and many users successfully used the recipe (ie no more unexpected shutdown).

 

I'm not talking about a putative shutdown at more than 35 km/h, since I have never tested those speeds. Maybe those who tried are no more among us to tell. Maybe YOU have tried and found the FW "always shuts down" at 35km precisely, but no offense, I doubt it -_-

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Something like this, I planned to build. But I would like that the rolls should also provide resistance. So could demonstrate uphill.

 

You can find this in car repair workshops. I've tried once, the guy was very kind to let me see the speed, etc (don't remember if you can change rolls' friction to simulate load).

It was when I was a beginner with a X3 clone so I didn't get much information apart from the fact the system works great. I should try again, with Firewheel, at very high speeds.

 

GMP-70.JPG

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Hobby16. It is sure that I will do modding batteries. Gotway at least 14 "and 18", and Firewheel are first on the list.
Rock wheel does not turn off exercise. So it may not be required.
Now I have a bad time. But maybe next week.
Fallback to put pictures of you here that you can make sure and all will see.
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Hobby16

Here, all the two pieces that I found my Gotway 14". Both batteries have one.

If I have to find more, I need to disassemble the shrink completely.
It is not a problem. I found collapsed by all sizes.
And I can wrap them again.
 

13799682.t.jpg

 

13799683.t.jpg

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Hi vee

It's probably the overcharge protection mosfet, ie not the good one to shunt. You should see 3 or more mosfets, probably at the right, they are the ones to shunt pins 2 and 3.

Look at the picures of BMS mods here for X3, TG, F-wheel, Gotway... (see also explanation schematics and use google translate) : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic870-0-asc-0.html

 

Here is the mod on my Firewheel,  easy to do but not 100% validated : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra15992_solution-probleme-bms.html#15992

Here is the mod for Firewheel a another wheeler, shrink wrap has to be cut to remove cover to have access to mosfets, but it's a totally validated mod. See the big blob of solder at the layout of a missing mosfet : it's the shunt which has been added

http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/images/45698_Firewheel_F260_BMS_mosfet_T1_shunt_7_.jpg

 

When shunting your Firewheel, if possible, please take photos of the back of the BMS, I'm interested to see them.

Note that in a 2 parallel batteries setup, shunting only ONE battery is enough to prevent shutdown.

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These pictures are Gotway 14 "MCM2s 680wh inside.

 

hobby16, I did not find what you are looking for batteries.

 

I could not find anything inside which would have caused extra noise.
I could not find anything that I would not have wanted to see.
Only I would have hoped that the envelope between the electronics you want to put sealant. Without it, the device is not completely waterproof. It is possible that the water reaches the circuit board.
But I've driven a lot of standing water, and no problems have been. I could not find water. But the dust I found inside.
 
 
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