Xthrax Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Changed the wheel on the mcm5. Watched a video how to do it but I guess its an older version. I dont have the same board. Like a dumb I didn't take a picture of how the board looked before I yanked the wires out. Most of the wires are color coded but the ones I circled are not colored at the terminations. I turned it on and things did not end well. If someone has a recent board picture of how the wires should be set up I would apricate it. I dont want screw things up more than I already have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 picture is not viewable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 18 minutes ago, Paradox said: picture is not viewable. https://imgur.com/a/lEl6xkn Not sure why but I can see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 fix it: yellow is correct, blu in the middle, than green 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 There are a few tear down videos on youtube. Maybe one of these can provide the proper connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) Your pic seems to suggest you have the blue and green reversed. Edited January 3, 2021 by Paradox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 There does seem to be differences in the two boards. Possible not of the same version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Corrected the wires to Yellow Blue Green, but now its beeping something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 minute ago, Xthrax said: its beeping something else works ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 I tried to find the post describing beep patterns. No luck. I remember someone responded with the reasons for various patterns. Make a new post describing the beep pattern. Someone will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Found it. Maybe low battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 you can find the beep code here : http://www.begode.com/productinfo/371631.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 update: I contacted Begode, here is what they said Quote Hello Friend This video doesn't quite see the problem. You need to put the wheel upright. Then start the wheel. Is the motor powered? Can it be balanced? What kind of alarm sound? Is the LED and headlamp normal? Please record the video again, or contact your dealer for after-sales support. So I turned it on again and this time the beeping was like 2 beeps 2, 2, 1, then silence. I did this with the motor stood up right but the auto balance did not activate. Its acting as if its still on its side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 you need to check the other cables , power and lift button first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 I dont know how to identify those cables. Can you tell me where I can find this information? My vehicle did not come with a manual. I appreciate your time sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 5 hours ago, Xthrax said: I dont know how to identify those cables. Can you tell me where I can find this information? My vehicle did not come with a manual. I appreciate your time sir. best way is follow the cables, newer version are color coded, not sure yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 Disconnected the power to the board first then I reseated the connections and made sure everything was in there firmly. Started the wheel backup, same issue. I looked on the other side of the wheel, and everything looks normal. No extra wires unplugged. https://imgur.com/a/9BAD1Si At this point I can thinking about calling warrantee on this wheel. I am not seeing any other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffNYC Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 May have some bad news for you - I had this same issue occur when changing the tire on my MCM5 V2. Didn't take a pic of the phase wire connections before undoing, then when reassembled I was surprised to discover the PCB wasn't labeled at all and the wire lengths didn't make it obvious which one goes where. Checked the teardown vid linked above, but it was for the older PCB design so was of no help... So I took my best guess and reconnected, figuring a reversed phase wire would only cause the motor to spin the opposite direction, and then I could simply swap them and all would be well. Nope, turns out the reversed phase wire caused the PCB to burn out (that's pretty poor PCB/software design in my mind). Turned on wheel, it had trouble balancing, and then I smelled the magic smoke - and when I tore it down and looked at the PCB, there were obvious burned out FETs. Did you smell a burning smell at some point when the wheel was first powered up? That would tell you you're in the same boat. My seller (fastwheel) wouldn't cover this under warranty, which I was a bit annoyed about given my view that this should have been labeled and/or the software/hardware should have been more resilient... but at least they were pretty good about shipping me a new PCB via air for a very reasonable price ($75). They also provided the pic below to make sure there was no confusion the second time. Clearly the PCB should have had stencil labeling on it showing these connections in the first place, especially given the fragility of the firmware with respect to mixed up phase connections. Big oversight on the part of Gotway here for this issue, so anyone changing a tire or fixing a flat on their MCM5 should be extremely careful about phase wire connections! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 On 1/8/2021 at 10:27 AM, JeffNYC said: May have some bad news for you - I had this same issue occur when changing the tire on my MCM5 V2. Didn't take a pic of the phase wire connections before undoing, then when reassembled I was surprised to discover the PCB wasn't labeled at all and the wire lengths didn't make it obvious which one goes where. Checked the teardown vid linked above, but it was for the older PCB design so was of no help... So I took my best guess and reconnected, figuring a reversed phase wire would only cause the motor to spin the opposite direction, and then I could simply swap them and all would be well. Nope, turns out the reversed phase wire caused the PCB to burn out (that's pretty poor PCB/software design in my mind). Turned on wheel, it had trouble balancing, and then I smelled the magic smoke - and when I tore it down and looked at the PCB, there were obvious burned out FETs. Did you smell a burning smell at some point when the wheel was first powered up? That would tell you you're in the same boat. My seller (fastwheel) wouldn't cover this under warranty, which I was a bit annoyed about given my view that this should have been labeled and/or the software/hardware should have been more resilient... but at least they were pretty good about shipping me a new PCB via air for a very reasonable price ($75). They also provided the pic below to make sure there was no confusion the second time. Clearly the PCB should have had stencil labeling on it showing these connections in the first place, especially given the fragility of the firmware with respect to mixed up phase connections. Big oversight on the part of Gotway here for this issue, so anyone changing a tire or fixing a flat on their MCM5 should be extremely careful about phase wire connections! I think you are correct. I did smell something but never figured out what got burnt. It really sucks that there is no color labels for the motor wires. Also no one tells you how dangerous it can be to to dis change the capacitor accidentally. I did it intentionally to make sure the board had no power and it was a powerful zap. singed the wires to the capacitor a bit. But anyone could accidentally do this plugging the wires in. Where did you get your PCB from? I doubt my supplier will cover it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffNYC Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Got the replacement PCB from the place that sold me the wheel - https://www.flash-ecom.com/password Looks like their shop may be on hiatus, but you could try contacting them to see if they'll sell you the PCB. Otherwise, perhaps ewheels can help you out? From what I read on the forum, they seem to be pretty good with parts/service and are based in the US so may be easier/faster... Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Looks like I lucked out, the dealer is getting a new part from Gotway free of charge and not charging me. I guess its because it does not look like the board has any physical burns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffNYC Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Great to hear - definitely a lucky outcome! Follow the pic I posted of phase wire connections and don't forget to connect the battery last when doing the new PCB swap. Also, when you go to change the PCB, be forewarned that removing all the white 'glue' holding the connector plugs to the jacks is a bit of a PITA. Be careful and avoid using wirecutters to do this as you can accidentally cut a wire (don't ask me how I know this...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 Yeah when I changed the wheel I had to remove a lot of that white junk. Sliced it off with a knife. I need to find a safer way to discharge the capacitors too. The real kicker is all this hassle is nessary just to fix a flat, its almost as if they never expect anyone to have to change the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 9 hours ago, Xthrax said: I need to find a safer way to discharge the capacitors too. With Gotway, the easiest and safest method I have found is to simply turn on the wheel with the battery disconnected. The wheel will try to turn on for a brief moment before the caps are emptied. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xthrax Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 Nearly 2 months later I finally receive the replacement board from sales person and guess what. It a newer board with no instructions. (At his point I am starting to wonder if ordering a new wheel is the better way to go.) I looked at how my current board is connected and how the new one looks and drew some conclusions. Let me know if this looks right to yall. Last time I just guessed I fried the board. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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