Jump to content

Jump/Power pads. Thingiverse.


NickNonsense

Recommended Posts

Another idea might be to build bigger plates asymmetrically. What I mean is (bear with me, writing from the phone) make a bigger surface plate for the break part on the top part of the wheel (somewhat perpendicular to the brake surface) and use the lower part of the wheel to build bigger plate for the jump/acceleration pad. If I were to use symbols to illustrate it something like this:

L - for the acceleration lever and ¬ for the breaking surface

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, BoseHeadphones said:

@George Iliev I think you're onto something. I printed the split design out of some leftover TPU, attached to my Sherman with some 10lb hook and loop. My concerns about adhesion diminished rapidly. After a minute of riding the pads are on strong enough to make removal by hand difficult, at that point I have to saw the pads off the wheel with a credit card.

Enhancements from here--fill in some of the empty space so there's even more surface area to stick to. I'd still prefer the extra material more in the brake pad than the throttle--the situation I'm still worried could rip the pads off is hard emergency braking.

1381355964_PhotoFeb04202733.thumb.jpg.b9feb3cd08a69ab327c934d778b13861.jpg

@NickNonsense Awesome job , for any wheel where there's flat surface area to shuffle the pads around I think the split design is ideal. Takes a bit of effort to experiment and move the pads around but that boosts my confidence they won't be falling off easily.

COuld you not just print the same exact shape and just transpose the sides on mounting? It looks like they would be identical once you add onto the existing design for more adhesion area. Maybe toss some neoprene on there so they arent so tough on the legs too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

COuld you not just print the same exact shape and just transpose the sides on mounting? It looks like they would be identical once you add onto the existing design for more adhesion area.

Not sure I'm picturing what you're describing but I think there's some merit to an asymmetric design--I know I'm more likely to put more pressure on the rear pad so I'd prefer it had more of the available surface area. Took it for a test run with the one-piece design on the right and this split design on the left and I'm happy as-is, increasing the brake pad area is a minor nitpick.

2 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Maybe toss some neoprene on there so they arent so tough on the legs too?

I have the one-piece versions printed in harder 98A TPU and baby foamed up which is comfortable. Printed this split design w/ medium softness 95A TPU, thinner walls and less infill (1.8mm walls and 20% infill) hoping it'd be soft enough on its own but it's not squishy enough to be comfortable, padding definitely recommended. Unfortunately ran out while padding the one-piece pads, just ordered some more to get this split design properly outfitted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is awesome @BoseHeadphones that you printed this new design, thank you. I have yet to print mine yet because I am waiting for some parts for my printer.

4 hours ago, BoseHeadphones said:

I know I'm more likely to put more pressure on the rear pad so I'd prefer it had more of the available surface area.

This is a valid design consideration, and the pictures is a great visual for where this added surface area could be implemented. Thanks again for the input.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
14 hours ago, pressbyron said:

What does it cost in filament to print these if one can find a friend with a 3d printer? :)

Depends on your material of choice, but a set of two complete split pads worked out to ~700 grams of TPU. I'm a fan of this stuff, it's fairly stiff so it prints fast, plus I'm a sucker for anything remotely neon green: https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Flexible-Consumables-Dimensional/dp/B08BC9K1GK/

So for TPU ~$20 in material, or for a cheaper PLA ~$14 in material, then add $3-$4 in electricity.

On 7/19/2021 at 8:49 AM, amomymous said:

Update: BTW can I get the design files with the increased rear part?

I don't think there have been any design changes from what is currently posted on thingiverse, though I did print another set from the neon green TPU and scaled up the brake pad 10% in the x/y. Added these to my Sherman so there was plenty of space to scale these pads up: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641153

Several months later still happy with the results! I highly recommend the split setup on anything with enough flat surface area to make it work (Sherman, MSX/P/RS).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, BoseHeadphones said:

Depends on your material of choice, but a set of two complete split pads worked out to ~700 grams of TPU. I'm a fan of this stuff, it's fairly stiff so it prints fast, plus I'm a sucker for anything remotely neon green: https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Flexible-Consumables-Dimensional/dp/B08BC9K1GK/

So for TPU ~$20 in material, or for a cheaper PLA ~$14 in material, then add $3-$4 in electricity.

I don't think there have been any design changes from what is currently posted on thingiverse, though I did print another set from the neon green TPU and scaled up the brake pad 10% in the x/y. Added these to my Sherman so there was plenty of space to scale these pads up: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641153

Several months later still happy with the results! I highly recommend the split setup on anything with enough flat surface area to make it work (Sherman, MSX/P/RS).

Triple that cost if one wants to use an industrial filmament that isnt from China. I've used Hatchbox and Overture in the past. I also have Yoyi and Tronxy, along with my favorite Ninjatek. Hatchbox and Overture TPU filaments typically cost about $.022 per gram. Actually, I have 3-4 1kg boxes of the stuff and have NO IDEA what to do with it.  I wouldnt think electricity is quite so expensive, but maintenance on all the printer parts definitely can be. If time is money, THATS where the real cost lies.

 

Edited by ShanesPlanet
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, BoseHeadphones said:

Depends on your material of choice, but a set of two complete split pads worked out to ~700 grams of TPU. I'm a fan of this stuff, it's fairly stiff so it prints fast, plus I'm a sucker for anything remotely neon green: https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Flexible-Consumables-Dimensional/dp/B08BC9K1GK/

So for TPU ~$20 in material, or for a cheaper PLA ~$14 in material, then add $3-$4 in electricity.

I don't think there have been any design changes from what is currently posted on thingiverse, though I did print another set from the neon green TPU and scaled up the brake pad 10% in the x/y. Added these to my Sherman so there was plenty of space to scale these pads up: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4641153

Several months later still happy with the results! I highly recommend the split setup on anything with enough flat surface area to make it work (Sherman, MSX/P/RS).

Wow nice, thanks! I tried to find an online printing service and they wanted to charge like 300 bucks for these... What is up with thouse prices O_O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, pressbyron said:

Wow nice, thanks! I tried to find an online printing service and they wanted to charge like 300 bucks for these... What is up with thouse prices O_O

Time is money...    If you really wanted to know how much material a certain stl uses, you could load it into Cura or similar free program and it estimates time and material for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, pressbyron said:

Wow nice, thanks! I tried to find an online printing service and they wanted to charge like 300 bucks for these... What is up with thouse prices O_O

That's why I got my printer a few years ago. I got the Prusa MK3 kit. They're cheaper ones but I needed it as a tool first and foremost than another hobby. At least with printing the tpu filiment you don't need a real expensive printer. Nylon and abs need a decent printer for easier success. Even with the Prusa, 3d printers can be finicky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I really appreciate this design for making things simpler for my editing.

I am just getting into TPU printing, but have been printing in ABS for a long time.

I wanted to change the design a little to use foam in the holes for crash protection, so added holes at the top.

I am planning to apply a few layers of TPU using my 3D pen to give it more rigidity when printed with ABS.

Baby foam pads on the inside might help with comfort.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4942604

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, thanks a lot for this design! I just got a 3d printer and before I spend too much time trying to learn Fusion 360 and printing with TPU I would love some feedback on a thought I had. Since I am new to all this (and because I am me :)) I will try to be clear with my assumptions and potential solution.

 

Assumption 1: A print with "standard print parameters", even with TPU, results in a durable but not sufficiently soft pad. 

Assumption 2: The critical zone for "softness" is where chins press for acceleration (i.e. not breaking/calves and not around feet/heel).

 

Hypothesis:

Make the design trade-off between "durable" and "soft" modular by adding thin slices/fins where the chin presses. Im thinking maybe 1-2mm thick and... 5-10mm high? A balance between durability and softness again, but for the fins we can lean more towards softness as long as its printable and doesnt break after 10 km. Is there "too thin" in terms of not giving the chins enough resistance before bending or will the ability of the printer/design be the limit? I guess nozzle width is min width but that seems like it would break after very little use.

I guess printing angle would be important, but since I assume (assumption #3 :)) pads should be printed as if the printing surface was the wall of the wheel, slices/fins that are perpendicular to the chins should be fairly easy to print, even if thin? More funky perhaps would be some kind of mesh pattern with "pillars" rather than slices. I imagine a lot harder to print and design.

Shouldnt this improve "softness"? Not enough? Will it break? Too difficult to print? Why has it not already been tried? :) 

 

"Just use foam" aka KISS?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/6/2021 at 11:17 AM, KPul said:

Why has it not already been tried? :) 

it will take 50 iterations of the 3d printed model to get this correct. Time nobody wants to invest because it's a lot easier to just slap a piece of soft material on top of it.

 

I would say knock yourself out:

https://colorfabb.com/varioshore-tpu-natural

 

you can play with the hardness of the material by adapting the temperature on the fly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...