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So, my Kingsong died today..


Cloud

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It's officially toast.

I rode a few feet forward and then i braked sharp and leaned back as i intended to go backwards and at that time i heard some mechanical noise in the wheel and i fell backwards On the pavement. When i got up and picked up the wheel , i think the wheel was off. When i turned it on, there was a mechanical thud/ thumping sound as the wheel tried to gain horizontal balance but couldnt. So the wheel was on but not balanced horizontally. It wasnt standing upright. I turned it off and on again. Again, a loud mechanical thud inside the wheel as if some gears tried to turn and something woukdnt let them,  and the wheel couldnt gain balance.  Also when i rolled the wheel the wheel wouldnt roll free, as if there was something in the way of it turning, it was rolling but there was some obstacle in the way as it it was rubbing against something. When i turned on the wheel a 3rd time i heard a flopping sound on top of the wheel where the control board is as if something popped there and i could smell something burning,  after that the wheel did not turn on.
i just took the wheel apart.
 
What do you guys think happened?
 
 
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7 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

You might need a special tool that separates the cover from the stator.

Right now i need the allen key, it seems to open the wheel cover.

4 minutes ago, zlymex said:

Would the wheel turn freely when power off?

I dont think so.  It would turn but there was something in the way, as if the wheel was catching on to something when turning. 

However, the strangest thing, now that i took the wheel out of the casing and disconnected from control board, i can roll it on the floor and it turns normally

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Just now, SlowMo said:

I saw one video on youtube where one person opened up a similar motor and had this device which clamps on the sides of the cover and pulls it up evenly. I cant seem to find the video now.

I will see whats inside when i open it. Its possible that i will need more tool ps that i dont have now

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17 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

Loose magnets are bad. I tried putting them back with super glue on my small rc motors but got no good results.

You need to use a good quality epoxy glue to restick the magnets. Super glue won't work. Avoid cheap epoxy glues as they have a lot of filling agent in them and less resin.

25 minutes ago, Cloud said:

However, the strangest thing, now that i took the wheel out of the casing and disconnected from control board, i can roll it on the floor and it turns normally

That sounds like the motor is ok and it's just the mosfets blown.

Look closely at the control board and check the mosfets carefully for any slightly darkened area around them from the heat.

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17 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

I saw one video on youtube where one person opened up a similar motor and had this device which clamps on the sides of the cover and pulls it up evenly. I cant seem to find the video now.

That would be a puller and they do make life easier but as long as you are careful not to use too much force you can use two flat screwdrivers to gently lever on opposite sides. It's just the tight push fit of the centre wheel bearing into the alloy cover that you are trying to remove.

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Whilst I would agree from experience with cheap  model aircraft motors that the symptoms do sound like a dropped magnet, is there any possibility you had simply picked up a stone and it was jamming between the wheel and casing? I've also seen one of the Allen head bolts on the wheel rim come undone which could possibly catch against the casing (I refitted all of mine, one at a time, with locktite which was noticeably absent.)

One other lesson comes out of this is: Don't power it up if the wheel is not turning freely. That can result in large currents flowing as the circuitry tries to force the wheel to move. You possibly have two problems now: whatever jammed the wheel in the first place and blown MOSFET's.

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7 minutes ago, Planetpapi said:

I'm surprised King Song produced a faulty unit.

Like I've mentioned multiple times in the past, any wheel can break down any time. All it takes is one bad electrical connection (either from the get-go or loosened over time by vibration, falls, thermal expansion / contraction as the temperature around changes) or one electrical component to fail (all though there are no mechanical moving parts, the components do "wear" especially under high temperature etc.) in a critical place, or mechanical fault either due to faulty unit or simple wear & tear...  Not fun, but that's just how it is.

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This might explain more of his overheating problem. I have a feeling that his unit was defective from the beginning and now it just gave up. It looks like a great reason to buy a Msuper now. The 850wh is such a beast Im so happy with it

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10 hours ago, zlymex said:

Could be the MOSFETs that shorted. If that is the case, disconnect the 3 phase motor wires will make the wheel free.

I dont see what burned on the board as it appears normal but its obviously fried as i can smell it. I have disconnected the 3 phase motor wires. Are you sayig the reason the wheel was constrained before was that the 3 phases were connected and not it rolls free as i disconnected them?

10 hours ago, Keith said:

Whilst I would agree from experience with cheap  model aircraft motors that the symptoms do sound like a dropped magnet, is there any possibility you had simply picked up a stone and it was jamming between the wheel and casing? I've also seen one of the Allen head bolts on the wheel rim come undone which could possibly catch against the casing (I refitted all of mine, one at a time, with locktite which was noticeably absent.)

One other lesson comes out of this is: Don't power it up if the wheel is not turning freely. That can result in large currents flowing as the circuitry tries to force the wheel to move. You possibly have two problems now: whatever jammed the wheel in the first place and blown MOSFET's.

Unlikely that the reason was a stone stuck in there. It diidnt sound like it and this happened when i braked and fell so id say its definitely associated with that event

1 hour ago, Donafello said:

This might explain more of his overheating problem. I have a feeling that his unit was defective from the beginning and now it just gave up. It looks like a great reason to buy a Msuper now. The 850wh is such a beast Im so happy with it

It is possible although i had no indication up until yesterday that this was about to happen. The wheel never failed before. I am still not sure if the overheating was due to a defective unit or to my weight and riding style and kingsong design. 

Yes i am kinda developing a bad case of GAS right now ( Gotway Aquisition Syndrome)

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4 hours ago, Planetpapi said:

I'm surprised King Song produced a faulty unit.

Not a faulty unit. He was using it for months and probably has more than 1000 miles. I'm not surprised it eventually broke down. Especially when doing sharp brakes going backwards with a person on it. It isn't the most stress free movement.

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24 minutes ago, fearedbliss said:

Not a faulty unit. He was using it for months and probably has more than 1000 miles. I'm not surprised it eventually broke down. Especially when doing sharp brakes going backwards with a person on it. It isn't the most stress free movement.

I probably have 1500 miles on it or so. Still kinda young to die a natural death. Yes sharp break but shouldnt it be rated for that? The reason why it may have been faulty is because the overheating issue was not consistent. At one time it got better after i changed the tire and then got worse again.... Otherwise it seemed to work fine.

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1 hour ago, Planetpapi said:

wow. I didn't realize you had 1500 miles on it! That's a lot ( for me anyway). I was under the impression you just started on it. My bad.

I started about 3- 4 months ago. I didnt think 1500 was too much...isnt , for example,  ninebot supposed to last 18000 miles?)

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