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RS-C38 Disassembly and photo info


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That motor looks NICE! Clean windings! Robust. Wow! All that is missing is...

2 hours ago, Planemo said:

(still shoulda used the golden opportunity to run fatter cables though...)

... that. Well, maybe next time:D Can't wait to see an EX motor disassembed!

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2 minutes ago, shellac said:

What’s the reason for fatter cables if the current ones aren’t melting under load? Just curious. 

Its a good point, but they did melt on the earlier MSX's (albeit that had a longer routing) and they melted on the Sherman so although they may well be 'ok for most purposes' I would rather have something more substantial especially given it would be a minimal increase in price and weight. No brainer IMO.

Its a bit like saying 'most people dont break axles so why use a hollow motor..'

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3 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

They are getting (way too) hot. That's why they have individual fiberglass heat sleeves - to prevent them from melting together and shorting.

That's not how you are supposed to build electronics. Cables are supposed to be cool. If they get hot or even warm, they're too thin. With the limited axle space gone, there's no excuse for that now.

Yep. What he said. Got in there before me lol. Just because they aint melting doesnt mean they are ok...

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4 hours ago, Chronic said:

i have checked the bearing markings. But there is no marking

Appreciated. 2RS, thank god!

There's a marking somewhere, either etched into the race or molded into the seal... but Gotway's manufacturer probably installed the bearing without caring if the markings were facing inward or outward, so it's random chance whether they'll be showing or not showing on any particular bearing.

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1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said:

With the limited axle space gone, there's no excuse for that now.

 

1 hour ago, Planemo said:

Just because they aint melting doesnt mean they are ok...

i can only find 6mm & its listed for use between 1K to 1.5K watt only, the RS doesn't even looks like a 3mm wire :o

Spoiler

 

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5 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

They are getting (way too) hot. That's why they have individual fiberglass heat sleeves - to prevent them from melting together and shorting.

That's not how you are supposed to build electronics. Cables are supposed to be cool. If they get hot or even warm, they're too thin. With the limited axle space gone, there's no excuse for that now.

i wouldn’t mind thicker wires combined with higher amperage from the batteries for more power on demand, not sure if that’s an option or the bottleneck is elsewhere like the motor. 

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33 minutes ago, shellac said:

i wouldn’t mind thicker wires combined with higher amperage from the batteries for more power on demand, not sure if that’s an option or the bottleneck is elsewhere like the motor. 

The bottleneck (weakest link) is always going to be somewhere. If we assume super thick motor power cables (which we semi-have because of the heat sleeves on the too thin wires), I think it will be either the mosfets or the battery (less the power delivery limit from the battery, but more that you don't want to waste crazy amount of your battery just to get stronger acceleration, so the firmware has to say "Stop!" somewhere).

Which is good. The mosfets have the temperature sensor that (in theory:whistling:) should warn you before they die. And if the battery gets to its limits, you merely faceplant, but the wheel doesn't die.

-

We've also seen some capacitor failures (might just have been from shorts) on the super high power wheels, so beefing those up can't hurt. In the end, there aren't too many components.

Motors should be crazy strong in comparison to all other components. In the end, unless something in the motor melts or it gets so hot it demagnetizes the magnets, what can fail? The motor is simply much bigger than any other component so it won't die first.

-

That's the (my) "I guess so" first approximation theory. Who knows how reality is...

Edited by meepmeepmayer
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@Chronic I envy your wheel. Amazing.

Would be nice to see your travels with it.

Your range with that devil prolly hitting a sweet spot.

Great content!

 

One more question, how many hours have you put into this project?

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6 hours ago, BleepBloopBlop said:

I see you eliminated the second charge port. Will you cap your charging at 10A?

That's a good question. This downgrades the charging port to single, but still supports charging currents of 15A or less. In any case, it is not possible to use 20A charging in a general driving environment, and it is not even supported according to the battery specification, so after working with a single connector, I buried it in an empty space. As you may know, the slower the charging speed, the better for the battery cell. 10A is a very fast charging speed.

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7 hours ago, Planemo said:

This is quite simply the most awesome wheel I have even seen. Gotway Monster range in an MSX/MSP form factor, and with the new hollow motor too. If I could have any wheel on the planet right now, it would be this. :thumbup:

I appreciate your compliment.

It seems that seeing the possibilities and enjoying the work process has helped me get the energy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 minutes ago, Chronic said:

I will sharing a simple YouTube video.

 

Great video! Great job. You are such a humble and nice guy. Looking forward to more from you. 

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Chronic you have gone beyond mere mortals. 85 km range with 34 km/h average? That new motor takes a lot of juice.

The way you document and present everything..

I salute you! Thank you for all your efforts.

You are a inspire.

Edit - few thoughts I had about the new design:

I noticed you removed the speakers and then placed em on the top side of the shell. You must have made hole there for em. I bet you made em watertight as possible, but could be good thing to (triple) check to make sure no water will get in from there inside near board or batterys, even in case of ruptured speaker.

edit2: And the same goes for the handle aka trolley. I am still bit worried water getting in sliding along the handle aluminium. I personally used RollNZ cover for my older MSP but that might not help here. Maybe additional neophrene cover for those parts? Just my thoughts anyway!

edit3:

Almost forgot that the power button can leak some water in too, might wanna put some plastic over it or such?

Love your work!

Edited by Tasku
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