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RS-C38 Disassembly and photo info


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4 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Yes - please please please remove a motor side-cover and take some photos of the bearing's markings!

(And where did you find an H-666??? I'm jealous :()

Here : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32883617308.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27426c37EP0ZES

Although I switched from this to a knobby tire (MSX) and the knobby is awesome.

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10 hours ago, Chronic said:

The screws have been changed to hex bolts

I dont feel that the bolts were a problem. It was the brass inserts and (lack) of supporting plastic around them that was the issue. Unless they have increased the bolt head diameter of the hex bolts to help spread the load..? But again, pointless unless they also added extra material around the inserts and under the bolt heads.

10 hours ago, Chronic said:

The entire bearing is a single shaft concept, and the load-bearing force has become quite strong and robust. It is also expected that some of the heat problems will be solved

I must admit, the hanger assembly looks like it was pulled from a freight train. Stout isn't the word, and having 4 mounting bolts a good distance apart will really help load forces. The whole motor/hanger setup is a massive improvement IMO.

10 hours ago, Chronic said:

It completely supports dual charging by installing a separate PCB circuit without using multiple wires. The charging wiring is 16awg and supports/corresponds to more than 20A at maximum. but since the battery specifications of the product are different, be sure to check the specifications to see if your euc supports it

The issue I see with that is that in some ways it looks like a downgrade to me. The PCB only outputs 1 pair of wires. The older wheels had two pairs soldered directly to the plug, and each split off to each pack. Admittedly though, the older wheels only had one plug so that was the limitation. What I think they should have done on this RS is have 2 plugs AND 2 pairs of wires (1 pair to each plug). I guess the PCB can be binned though and simply solder up some wires yourself. At least you get 2x plugs though, which removes the 10A limitation of 1x GX plug.

I guess Gotway felt that one pair of 16AWG was better than 2 pairs of (18/20AWG?) on the old wheels.

Other than that, I really like the attempt at water proofing. Re it looking 'cleaner' in terms of wiring, I can't see any difference to the old wheels :confused1: To be fair, although messy, they generally suffer very few problems. If it ain't broke...

 

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17 hours ago, Planemo said:

I dont feel that the bolts were a problem. It was the brass inserts and (lack) of supporting plastic around them that was the issue. Unless they have increased the bolt head diameter of the hex bolts to help spread the load..? But again, pointless unless they also added extra material around the inserts and under the bolt heads.

I agree with you. GW shell materials are still of low cost quality with reduced cost and i think it is the role of fixing the spacing of the main shell a little more

17 hours ago, Planemo said:

The issue I see with that is that in some ways it looks like a downgrade to me. The PCB only outputs 1 pair of wires. The older wheels had two pairs soldered directly to the plug, and each split off to each pack. Admittedly though, the older wheels only had one plug so that was the limitation. What I think they should have done on this RS is have 2 plugs AND 2 pairs of wires (1 pair to each plug). I guess the PCB can be binned though and simply solder up some wires yourself. At least you get 2x plugs though, which removes the 10A limitation of 1x GX plug.

I guess Gotway felt that one pair of 16AWG was better than 2 pairs of (18/20AWG?) on the old wheels.

I think there are likes and dislikes
this charging method is one of my pursuits. It is never a downgrade
in a typical environment, few euc can be charged with a current of 20a. Except for Monster Pro also maybe EX
it couldn't be better than a bunch of 18awg 2 pairs, but this still parallelizes. Above all, it would be appropriate to see it as a response to the allowable current amount of the circular 5pin charging connector

we have already tested 100.8V 12A current of one circular 5pin connector and verified that there is no heat generation and no problem with long-term use

Thank you for your good opinion

41554217__2020_10_02_21_54_IMG_6488.jpg.7d75f3f6059a8c938dd2d6cb490af19e.jpg

Edited by Chronic
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14 minutes ago, Chronic said:

 

sorry for the late reply guys

I was too busy working on expanding the battery. Now that i almost finished, i have checked the bearing markings. But there is no marking

175523495__2020_10_09_18_35_IMG_6606.jpg.8df56ca746659ffa7b56c9175ababd25.jpg

1585464075__2020_10_09_18_34_IMG_6605.jpg.88ad04ec09dfcfd15b72e38a97c63906.jpg

561231882__2020_10_09_18_34_IMG_6603.jpg.487396f93df448a887d3439d69a6134e.jpg

1441623018__2020_10_09_18_35_IMG_6608.jpg.aab065c8d8e1656ff1afd3d9b6df6719.jpg

 

Can You please measure the size of the bearing (internal diameter / external diameter and the width) ?

Those are huge bearings - they add weight, but the whole wheel will be quite stiff and run for long time 

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18 minutes ago, Lukasz said:

Those are huge bearings - they add weight, but the whole wheel will be quite stiff and run for long time 

But the big hole weighs nothing :rolleyes:

Edited by buell47
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53 minutes ago, Planemo said:

That bearing size is mental :shock2:

I am probably more surprised that an EUC firm has actually fitted something that not only appears up to the job, but that it is probably OVER engineered for the requirements. Quite speechless tbh.

(still shoulda used the golden opportunity to run fatter cables though...)

Yeah, no we can jump without fear for a broken axle, but we cant make a turn without pedal scraping. :roflmao:

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