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First timer - help me decide between...


Tariq

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I'm looking to get my first EUC. i have a history with electric scooters and skateboards and im looking to move into the EUC world!

Im based in the UK and will be using UK sellers with warranty (I wont be considering AliExpress)

I do not plan on upgrading whatever i buy anytime soon so i want something i can grow into, i dont want to get bord after a few months. i wont be doing to much off roading, most likely more commuting and long trips down the beach :)

My current choices are:

V10F: form what i've read this is a good euc to start and will last for quite a while, however ive already read that the speed isnt that great and you'll get used to it pretty quick.

V11: this looks like the future, something that i could grow into and have fun on it for a really long time, however ive also read that its quite delicate so im worried of breaking it early on

Msuper Pro torque/speed: this looks like alot of fun however i havent done much research on it and from what i have done, the reviews are a bit mixed on quality control\

KS16X: look good but is the same price as the V11 so i feel if im going to spend that much i might as well get the better of the 2.

 

i dont plan on buying a second hand one to learn on either, advice and recommendations would be much appreciated!!

 

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6 hours ago, Tariq said:

I do not plan on upgrading whatever i buy anytime soon so i want something i can grow into, i dont want to get bord after a few months. i wont be doing to much off roading, most likely more commuting and long trips down the beach :)

If you wanna buy something you do not need to upgrade, I would recommend: Nikola plus 2664Wh with SmartBMS. Only 1radwerkstatt makes this custom wheel. This is custom build BMS for the shell of Nikola plus, makes it most worth to get wheel in the market right now (IMHO). If I could go back in time and just buy one wheel, I would save my money and get this wheel and wait patiently until it is ready. Waiting is the hardest when you get the "WHEEL FEVER", you know what I mean? It is custom wheel so there is a line to get it. This would be the step ahead device you do not need to upgrade. All the other products are designed with scaling in mind. They keep bringing new wheels to market with lil bigger this and that, instead of giving all in one. This device has such range that the wheel will last longer than the rider. The amount on battery is perfect, unlike the factory models you buy now, leaves you wanting more. The next model they put out barely performs any better.. This is because price, people stare at it and it is like a game, a silly game. The specs of these product leave you wanting more, for a reason. They keep doing this, just pushing numbers ever so sligtly up, that they hardly matter. This custom build fixes what customer wants and gives it all in one deal, but price is something most save for.

 

My first wheel is Msuper Pro torque. I can explain few things about it if you wanna consider it. I got 1000 km with my wheel, so keep that in mind.

People told me it is too heavy for starter wheel, they kinda right, but I was able to test drive another more lighter wheel for few hours therefore learned to ride basics. This way I felt like starting with the heavy MSP wheel was easier. If you plan of getting a Msuper Pro or RS (replacing MSP) version, well after you get used to it, it is good wheel. Below are some pros and cons I tried to list. For me I wanted a device that I can feel safe with performance. If well maintained the stronger 2500W motor with new internal wiring and such I hope cutout is nothing to worry. New model will replace the MSP- > RS in future.

 

Heres some pros (MSP Torque 2500W):

- The build (wiring and such) is bulky enough so your wheels motherboard will not start to burn like popcorn in hilly terrain

- Designed to drive around 120kg

- Feels good, smooth ride EUC, easy to recommend

- Tiltback option and safety features customisable ( I only wish I could set also low battery tiltback for additional  safety)

- 2500W motor gets you 30 degree hills up, good safety buffer with performance.

- Pretty easy to maintain, if you have experience in electronics and mechanics.

 

 

And Cons (MSP TORQUE 2500W):

- Was/would be harder to learn, I must admit. I would not buy another wheel just because of this point. Instead I purchased a rollNZ cover protector to my wheel and it looks brand new, even after the few falls it has endured while practicing. With the RollNZ cover I also feel this point became visually plus-thingie :D

- The center of balance on wheel is somewhat higher, and I feel it might be more prone to wobble.

- Lowered efficiency at higher speeds for battery drain. You will lose battery much faster if you travel higher speeds over  30-40 km/h. 

- You cannot ride fast when battery are low. This applies to all EUC if you wanna stay safe. But you have to set the safety parameters yourself. Any EUC motor drains more when traveling higher speeds, but this might do so slightly more.

 

Anyway you go, for first wheel I think it would be hard to go wrong. Just buy from vendor that you feel good to be in contact with, and my wheel broke and needed warranty within first 2 weeks, so make sure you know what you have under warranty. Cheers!

 

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You don't say how much you weigh, are you reasonably fit or whether you ever need to carry the wheel up and down stairs?

You mention long rides up and down Bournemouth beach but that beach is only 7 miles long, 14 miles return, and that is actually nothing to an EUC. I personally don't think it's a good idea to buy your "ideal" first wheel before you can even ride but, hey, it's your money. The Nikola mentioned in the previous post weighs about 30Kg - that's 50% more than the max weight allowed for a fully loaded suitcase on an plane (remember those?) and you'll be picking it up a lot as you'll drop it a lot while learning. It's also not an easy wheel to learn on. The surface of the Nik is a beautiful shiny black that will be scratched to hell after you've learnt on the wheel. All the Gotway wheels are built for speed and that's one thing you don't need trying to ride alongside a crowded beach. I'd also avoid the V11 as you'll just break it while trying to learn and you really just want a rugged wheel to learn on.

Personally I'd go for the 16X as it has range and it's also manoeuvrable and many folks say it's their favourite wheel. It's also rugged so it won't mind being dropped continually. Actually, personally, I'd just buy a 2nd hand wheel to learn to ride on (16S, V8F or V10F) then decide whether you really need a "bigger" wheel as all of these wheels will meet your needs. If you do decide you want a better wheel then at least you'll have some experience behind you to decide what exactly it is that you want. 

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Mike has some good points.

58 minutes ago, mike_bike_kite said:

Personally I'd go for the 16X

If you do, make sure your wheel is not geo locked. UK vendor, if that where you use it.

1 hour ago, mike_bike_kite said:

Actually, personally, I'd just buy a 2nd hand wheel to learn to ride on (16S, V8F or V10F) then decide whether you really need a "bigger" wheel as all of these wheels will meet your needs. If you do decide you want a better wheel then at least you'll have some experience behind you to decide what exactly it is that you want. 

This again would cause to buy 2 wheels. End result could be close to getting the wheel with amazing specs.

I tried to tip what I tried:  Contacting local groups (this forum) to ask if someone would be willing to meet and for practice session. Worked for me, and therefore I was able to hop into learning my "dream wheel" against recommendations I got from others: "Get practice wheel first" 

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I weigh 290lbs in full gear and had a V10F for some time. It had really nice large pedals with plenty of room for my large feet and the speed was more than enough for me. I dont ride faster then what it takes to feel a nice fresh breeze on my face, so maybe 25-27kmh at the most. At no point did it seem to have any issues with hauling my weight around. I have just ordered and am currently waiting for my second V10F.

Edited by mhpr262
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Are you wanting to go fast? I assume not from most of the choices you listed. Limited experience here but fwiw, I'm liking my 16X for my under 28kph recreational riding....I had preordered the V11 but switched when it looked like it would take months to show up. Figured, might as well let them work out any early bugs too.

From watching YT videos and reading in this forum, there are quite a few people that really like the feel of the 16X if you don't mind the lower speeds. I didn't want high top end speed. Well, correction...I want high speeds but my family is better off with me staying at lower speeds (I think ppl here say < 40kph should be safe from cutouts on the 16x ). 

I personally found the 16X very easy to learn on after a grueling 30min and it responds quickly even with me @  6'2 200lb. It held up very well to a lot of drops on day 1 with the roll.nz cover on it. I added a strap to the handle for days 3 & 4 until I was sure it wouldn't get away from me on dismounts.

If I'm still riding, I expect to upgrade to suspension in spring '21 or '22, should still be some decent resale value left. I hope they have speakers by then...kind of a silly thing, but I really like the speakers on the 16X. Not something I would have thought I cared about before getting it....guess you can always use an external speaker, but it's nice to have one less thing to deal with.

 

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15 hours ago, Tariq said:

I do not plan on upgrading whatever i buy anytime soon so i want something i can grow into, i dont want to get bord after a few months. i wont be doing to much off roading, most likely more commuting and long trips down the beach :)

Many in this forum will agree with me: with EUCs it is a bit as with potato chips - one is not enough! First of all your skill level increases (there is a steep learning curve involved), then there are a few new sensational wheels every year. And they really get better and better but they still all have their flaws. 

 

7 hours ago, Tasku said:

My first wheel is Msuper Pro torque. I can explain few things about it if you wanna consider it. I got 1000 km with my wheel, so keep that in mind.

People told me it is too heavy for starter wheel, they kinda right, but I was able to test drive another more lighter wheel for few hours therefore learned to ride basics.

So what @Tasku says makes a lot of sense to me. My first wheel was the Ninebot E+ and I still have it and teach friends and family how to ride an EUC. In my experience it takes people 3 Minutes (a skier and inline skater) or an hour (a girl who can ride a normal unicycle) or up to three days (a friend, who never did any similar activities) to be able to ride your first kilometers without dropping the wheel. And they all soon wanted something faster and bigger. Then came a Kingsong and the ACM but the wheel I really learned riding on was the MSuper V3s+ (the one with the faulty control board and the oscillation issue) It felt very heavy at first, but you will grow into these heavier wheels. So the MSX or MSP might well be, what you are looking for, even though it is not a beginners wheel. So if you have the chance to learn the basics with someone, who is willing to help you learn on an old banged up wheel for a few days, take it and then grow on a heavier wheel. I myself love the Z10 a lot. It is really well build, looks aesthetically awesome 😎 and is a lot of fun. It is fast enough for most people  But it is not for everyone, since the riding characteristics are very different from most other wheels. And then of course there is the aspect of what you are going to use your new wheel for. If you plan to use it for commuting go with the KS16X or the V11, if you want it more extreme go for the MSX or MSP. I was very close to order me an MSP myself, but then I bought the Sherman and it is the best wheel I have ridden so far, but probably too heavy to be practical for many people. I am happy to have my other wheels, especially my Z10 for everyday trips to the convenience store.

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8 hours ago, mike_bike_kite said:

You don't say how much you weigh, are you reasonably fit or whether you ever need to carry the wheel up and down stairs?

 

I weigh about 155 pounds and I live in a ground floor apartment, so I wouldn’t be taking it up stairs very often, however I would like to take it with me on tubes and trains when I am in London

 

8 hours ago, mike_bike_kite said:

Personally I'd go for the 16X as it has range and it's also manoeuvrable and many folks say it's their favourite wheel

The price of the KS16x is £1950 in the UK, which is the same price as the V11, which is more expensive than the MSuper Pro (£1800). Is it worth the price premium?

 

31 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

If you plan to use it for commuting go with the KS16X or the V11, if you want it more extreme go for the MSX or MSP.

From what I’ve read so far this is what it really boils down to, the MSP is £150 cheaper than the KS16x and faster, so my gut is telling me to go with this as I’m worried I might outgrow the KS16x and regret not getting the MSP

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1 hour ago, Tariq said:

I weigh about 155 pounds and I live in a ground floor apartment, so I wouldn’t be taking it up stairs very often, however I would like to take it with me on tubes and trains when I am in London

I am 75 kg and you would be 70kg so quite close.

1 hour ago, Tariq said:

The price of the KS16x is £1950 in the UK, which is the same price as the V11, which is more expensive than the MSuper Pro (£1800). Is it worth the price premium?

People are pretty hyped with V11, that I heard. The first batch was also quite problematic and lots people used warranty to fix the wheel. Uncertain how well the problems are fixed so always bit risky to go with the new wheel. With MSP I was worried about potholes too, but now I don't worry too much anymore. Took me time to learn the bent knee and your body is the suspension. Also I use pads supporting my ankle and I just do not lose my leg hold that easy. 

V11 with suspension sounds good pick too. I think all those wheels are good. Having a light weight wheel would be ideal for trains and such, but you usually lose range cause they rarely have big battery. 

MSP is 25kg, bit too heavy for my liking but I can manage it. I always turn MSP off when I use the luggage handle it has. That handle could be better design so the other models you listed there win that one. If that is important. MSP kinda weird cause I have to push it front of me on one side. It is weird but I learned to manage with it. Please turn off the power because if wheel falls it turns into scene before it turns off.

Remember to save money for protective gear too. Knee, elbow and wrist protection is quite a must. Bicycle helmet will be ok for start but you need a proper helmet when you get to higher speed (over 25km/h) I use POC Arctic SL spin helmet, it has chin protection. FYI: That is shalom helmet and kinda light weight, I like it. Motorcycle helmet is something hard to go wrong, but they can get heavy.

1 hour ago, Tariq said:

From what I’ve read so far this is what it really boils down to, the MSP is £150 cheaper than the KS16x and faster, so my gut is telling me to go with this as I’m worried I might outgrow the KS16x and regret not getting the MSP

Site called Roll.NZ make great protection covers for the MSP wheel. It is same model as MSX. Improves the outlook too. They make covers for other devices too, check it out! The delivery arrived in week. I recommend if you go MSP route. I feel like I get great grip from it too! Sadly I don't know if they have cover for RS yet (that will replaces the MSP model).

I would like to say one more thing. The SPEED 2000W version is way more popular, might be better for you even. The torque 2500W loses some of its battery faster in higher speeds. With SPEED version of MSP you will get better range for traveling, but less hill climb ability. I can't advice going over 30km/h unless road condition perfect flat with any device. If your area has lots of hills, like mine then Torque might be more intresting. 70kg with speed version, I think your good. Speed 20 Degree and Torque 30 degree hillclimb.

 

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9 hours ago, Tariq said:
10 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

 

From what I’ve read so far this is what it really boils down to, the MSP is £150 cheaper than the KS16x and faster, so my gut is telling me to go with this as I’m worried I might outgrow the KS16x and regret not getting the MSP

Personally that would be my choice as well. But I think you can not go wrong with either of these wheels. I guess you have seen this comparison of the KS16x with the MSX (100V) by Chooch here:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUQJ6rrVHSA 

He has ridden both wheels extensively and it might highlight the differences for you, if you haven’t seen his video yet. But my impression from what you wrote above is, that you are aiming for speed and thrill. So the MSP might be the wheel to go for. If you plaster it up well with enough foam strips, it should survive the first few months of learning without too much damage. But please make sure, you also invest into some good protective equipment at least for your head, hands and knees. You are going to invest into a powerful e-horse and you will regret riding it without the right protective measures, trust me.

Finally, I want to share a private conversation that I had with @Marty Backe a while ago, when I was contemplating to buy the MSP.

I really like the MSP and how it rides. Love the tire that Gotway put on it too. A bit softer than the MSX tire so it makes for a very nice ride, IMO.

Although clearly not as fast as the MSX, I was comfortably cruising at 32mph (~50kmh) just last week. It will certainly feel much faster than the Z10 and much more powerful (2500watt motor). But if you want to comfortably go 60+ km/h than you really do need to get the MSX instead.

Note that Gotway is making special MSP's that have the higher speed MSX motor. EWheels in the United States is selling them and there is a European dealer also selling them. You would have to find a dealer that has them. These are the fastest wheels ever made (faster than the MSX) and would easily meet your speed criterion.

Marty

So this special wheel Marty is talking about here, the MSS (MSuper Sport) may also be something, you might want to look into. But I don’t know if you can get your hands on one? Since I could not decide, what to order at that stage, I waited a little longer for someone to come up with the perfect wheel, a wheel that is super light and easy to transport, as beautifully looking as the Z10 or KS S18, with a 200+ km range, adjustable suspension and the capability to go 100+ km/h within 3.2 sec. And of course a red airbag carpet that Is rolled out in front of you in case of a cutout. 🤕  But of course this wheel is still 🤫 up in the stars. But meanwhile came the Sherman and I decided to go with that for now. 🤣 

 

Edited by Toshio Uemura
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13 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Many in this forum will agree with me: with EUCs it is a bit as with potato chips - one is not enough! First of all your skill level increases (there is a steep learning curve involved), then there are a few new sensational wheels every year. And they really get better and better but they still all have their flaws. 

 

So what @Tasku says makes a lot of sense to me. My first wheel was the Ninebot E+ and I still have it and teach friends and family how to ride an EUC. In my experience it takes people 3 Minutes (a skier and inline skater) or an hour (a girl who can ride a normal unicycle) or up to three days (a friend, who never did any similar activities) to be able to ride your first kilometers without dropping the wheel. And they all soon wanted something faster and bigger.

Wow, I must be a very unbalanced person. I grew up on bikes, motorcycles, regular unicycle, skis, snobaords, skateboarding, ice skates.. you name it. It took me WELL over an hour to ride a mile w/o stopping, let alone to feel any comfort in start/stopping. I'd say it took about a week of 30min days to get that first lightbulb moment. You have very talented friends!

10 hours ago, Tasku said:

Remember to save money for protective gear too. Knee, elbow and wrist protection is quite a must.

No they are not, they are a personal choice. What's a must is getting a first wheel and knowing that it probably won't be your last/only.

 

This first wheel question gets asked every week at least. The answers are always the same as they always differ and noone seems to agree. Just buy one, ride the piss out of it, and resign to the fact that you will want another, and no single wheel will do everything you want it to. You will also find that no matter how great your wheel is, the grass is greener via marketing, or you still want more. "I wont need to go XX fast, eventually becomes... it would be nice if i could go XX fast". I dont need that much range, quickly becomes.."i wish i had a little more range". Nothing wrong with buying a great used wheel. Theres always someone selling a great wheel at a steal, as they are being manipulated by marketing. I'd rather collect variances than sell. I have 3 wheels and none replace the other. I feel I have enough, but thats because i JUST got one. Ask me again next year, I'll have a reason I need another. What i would suggest you NOT do, is buy one of these new offerings because the hype has you thinking they are the "best" and you "Have" to have one. If you are buying a first wheel, 'keep it simple, stupid". The finicky and purpose built (non-proven) wheels are for those buying additional wheels. Get something that will work and not need tinkering. Fall in love with the ride first, THEN start nitpicking about the wheel. I had enough to worry about and was having enough fun in the beginning. Worrying about my wheel was NOT something that would have increased my joy, or liklihood of success.

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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38 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

You have very talented friends!

Indeed I do ... or I might be a damn good teacher. 😝 I’m afraid we will never know! 😂 

Edited by Toshio Uemura
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9 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Indeed I do ... or I might be a damn good teacher. 😝 I’m afraid we will never know! 😂 

cheating. I have yet to ever see (in person) another euc or rider that wasnt mine or me. Screw teachers, crash or burn, its fun to dive right in... come to think of it, that pretty much sums up this High School dropout. :smartass:

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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I have a suggestion here, but I only glanced fast through this thread. I didn't see this twist to the answer. 

First of about speed. EUC are different from other things and need power to balance. Hitting a bump or pot hole with speed "safely" you need to get intuitive body reaction without thinking. If you have been skiing it is in your favour. It is very easy to get overconfident in the early stages. I thought it had it somewhat under control after 400ish km. I didn't.  In fact it took me about 2500km to get to the point where a surprise pothole or bump would not throw me off. Here I am talking at speed of 20-30kmh. It is the surprise factor that is the difficult part. 

It is no secret I am very fond of my V11. But I would not start here. I would consider getting a V8f or V10f. They are cheaper to start out on and fairly sturdy. They are compared to others fairly light and good enough trolley to be useful. They are also easier to control in case you should get snow in winter time. Unlikely but it happen in UK too. They will match perfect to getting a V11 in spring time and at that point I think supply and early batch changes are so far ahead all problem post so far are sorted out. It gives you time to save up too. But when you get the next wheel keep you first one. It will serve you both as a backup incase you need a service on you main wheel.

But also something to let friends to try out to get them into EUC riding too. Once you get to do group rides that is when the next amazing step comes into play. How you can go on adventuring or exploring you area. I bet there are places you don't go by car or by bicycle or walking. On a wheel like V11 you can almost go anywhere within range of the wheel. (motorway not recommend though and same for rivers and ponds, maybe a few other places too anyway... )

And you will still have a light wheel for going on the train and last mile transport. 

I have my V10f aa my light wheel option. My KS16X is my main backup for my new main wheel the V11. But I would not at this stage recommend the V11 as a true winter (snow/ice) wheel due to the high pedals. 

Yes there are other ways to think about this. I do only recall 1 or 2 here that gave up on EUC. All others have become hooked on this new transport and lifestyle that often follows. 

Final word welcome to the community. We have nearly all been in similar situations like you unless a local friend bought you here. 

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I've come across a second hand wheel for a KS18XL with 850 miles on, it comes with a roll.nz bodyguard for £1500. is this a good deal? would this be a good all rounder wheel to start on?

Edited by Tariq
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3 hours ago, Tariq said:

I've come across a second hand wheel for a KS18XL with 850 miles on, it comes with a roll.nz bodyguard for £1500. is this a good deal? would this be a good all rounder wheel to start on?

It is one of my suggestions as a good basis to start on. 

If it is in good shape and battery is not showing any signs of problems (can be charge to 84.0v) then it does sound as a bad deal. But you should check if it bought from official auth dealer or grey market. If it is from grey market then you can't use KS app with the wheel. And this would make me think twice about it. 

BTW by good shape means no battery issues, no structural damage and trolley/lamp issues. Scrapes on pedals matters less. 

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5 hours ago, Tariq said:

I've come across a second hand wheel for a KS18XL with 850 miles on, it comes with a roll.nz bodyguard for £1500. is this a good deal? would this be a good all rounder wheel to start on?

Honestly: I would not spend that kind of money on a second hand wheel unless I really knew who I am buying from and why the wheel is sold.

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9 hours ago, Tariq said:

I've come across a second hand wheel for a KS18XL with 850 miles on, it comes with a roll.nz bodyguard for £1500. is this a good deal? would this be a good all rounder wheel to start on?

Yes, the Ks18L/XL makes a great wheel to start on, stay on, keep on keepin' on. I just rode my 18L around today and is was marvelous. I'm not extremely new and I have others to choose from. However, I can't comment on if its a good deal or not. Here in the usa, I would expect to pay around $1200 for an XL in marvelous condition. If a used one is very little savings vs new, I'd opt for new. Used is good too, but they better make it worth the gamble and give me a 2 day warranty. Toss a rollNZcover on an 18L/XL and you will be a happy camper for many seasons.How do you outgrow comfort and dependability?

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15 hours ago, manieuc said:

Maybe just me, but seems like even just for the peace of mind alone as a new rider you'd want to get a brand new one for £1660 on speedyfeet  https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/products/kingsong-ks18xl-electric-unicycle

That's the price before paying tax, it's £2000 after tax :( The OP should keep in mind that the 2000W KS18XL was available for £1400 brand new from a different supplier only a few months ago. The newer 2200W version was admittedly more expensive. There isn't much difference between the two versions. It's worth checking the serial number to see whether it's a Chinese import (I think they have a P at the end of the serial number but someone would need to confirm this), all wheels originally come from China but the unofficial Chinese import wheels can be turned off by KS. The 18XL is a great wheel though. 

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33 minutes ago, mike_bike_kite said:

but the unofficial Chinese import wheels can be turned off by KS.

What exactly does that mean? Do you mean you would suffer a face plant with such a wheel, if KS should decide to turn it off while you are riding?  😱 Or do you mean KS would refuse to do repairs and after service on such wheels if needed?

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1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said:

What exactly does that mean? Do you mean you would suffer a face plant with such a wheel, if KS should decide to turn it off while you are riding?  😱 Or do you mean KS would refuse to do repairs and after service on such wheels if needed?

Most KS wheels have an immobiliser within them that you can switch on via the app to stop others from riding your wheel. Unfortunately KS can also switch it on if they believe your wheel is an illegal import. They'd detect this by looking at your location and the serial number of the wheel. It's only an issue if you buy your wheel direct from China where wheels are considerably cheaper to buy. This is a new move by KS to protect official suppliers but everyone, apart from official suppliers, feel this is a huge mistake.

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6 hours ago, mike_bike_kite said:

Most KS wheels have an immobiliser within them that you can switch on via the app to stop others from riding your wheel. Unfortunately KS can also switch it on if they believe your wheel is an illegal import. They'd detect this by looking at your location and the serial number of the wheel. It's only an issue if you buy your wheel direct from China where wheels are considerably cheaper to buy. This is a new move by KS to protect official suppliers but everyone, apart from official suppliers, feel this is a huge mistake.

Did this ever happen to anyone in the forum here?
This kind of profit centered policy would be/will be reason enough for me never to buy any KingSong wheel again (even if it would be the Best wheel on the market). If people take their chances with Chinese sellers and make an effort to find a good cheap wheel because they don’t have a big budget, why punish them. Shame on KS!
This brand  (I forgot the name) just died for me!

Edited by Toshio Uemura
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It happened to a couple of people on here. After arguing their case with KS their wheels were then white listed which allowed them to work. I agree that it's appalling behaviour for a manufacturer. I like KS wheels but this sort of action does make me think twice about buying one of their wheels. If local legal suppliers want to sell more wheels then the wheels should be made more affordable. We're in a recession here in the UK (and nearly everywhere else) and I believe £2K for a wheel is just too expensive. Hopefully they will change this policy.

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