null Posted September 19, 2020 Share Posted September 19, 2020 (edited) Having a first production batch Sherman the fuse boxes where shipped separately with no instructions. Anyone seen some guide online? I don’t see how this would fasten to the housing, as for cables I’d have to cut and spade the live wire to insert the fuse? Should the new spades be tinned? Any tips to avoid getting roasted? And a single red cable with spade? Edited September 19, 2020 by null 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 10 hours ago, null said: Having a first production batch Sherman the fuse boxes where shipped separately with no instructions. Anyone seen some guide online? @Toshio Uemura should have first hand experience by now 10 hours ago, null said: I don’t see how this would fasten to the housing, He has found his two fuses fixed in his houses - maybe he made some fotos? 10 hours ago, null said: as for cables I’d have to cut and spade the live wire to insert the fuse? Yes - you could cut the red wire. But I would desolder the red wire from the connector and then solder the "red wire with the spade" to the connector. On the free red wire from the BMS you have to solder now one of the "spades" (?soldering eyelet/tag/lug?) 10 hours ago, null said: Should the new spades be tinned? The "spades" (?soldering eyelet/tag/lug?) are to be put on a screw and fixed there: It's not to be seen clearly, but the "spade" from the red wire sits on the screw under the washer (or under the ?yellow pcb?) Also for this detail @Toshio Uemura should have some real life tips? 10 hours ago, null said: Any tips to avoid getting roasted? Stay cool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the help @Chriull Fastening: yes I’ll ask.. I see the position but suppose they shouldn’t just rattle around. Maybe double sided tape but not much surface to stick on the back. The original battery wires (AFAIK) go to a XT plug before the controller board. I could make the wire longer by replacing the XT side with the new wire bit, but if I can avoid soldering so close to the live negative I would feel better, especially that my iron isn’t some surgical tool. Beside there are two batteries and fuses, I don’t see why we would get just one extra wire. (Remains a mystery) Ill add solder to the spade / eyelet / fastening with the wire, thanks. Cool as ice! 🧊 @Toshio Uemura Hi, do you know how the fuse boxes are fastened to the housing? Just in case you can see something there.. thanks! (Marty’s thread had moved to soft modes so I stayed here) Edited September 20, 2020 by null 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 41 minutes ago, null said: @Toshio Uemura Hi, do you know how the fuse boxes are fastened to the housing? Just in case you can see something there.. thanks! (Marty’s thread had moved to soft modes so I stayed here) I believe it is fixed with 2 little screws. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks a lot for the photo. Indeed mine have the same space for screws, though it would mean disassembling the wheel well and piercing it. I guess I’ll epoxy it, not so keen on major disassembly and adding holes. Your fuses are marked « 50 » I suppose Ampere. Mine are 100. I hope it’s not too high to be usefull, the XT connectors would fry before 😅 Edited September 20, 2020 by null 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 4 hours ago, Chriull said: It's not to be seen clearly, but the "spade" from the red wire sits on the screw under the washer (or under the ?yellow pcb?) Also for this detail @Toshio Uemura should have some real life tips? Quote Any tips to avoid getting roasted? The spade from the red wire sits under the washer, then comes a little spring washer, then the nut. After tightening put some mastic on the fuse nuts too, just to be on the safe side. Keep Pepper and Salt and some Extra Virgin Olive Oil at hand 🤚 Just in case you get roasted. 🤣 I touched the red wire spade (B2/B2 in my photo earlier) with my bare hands when fitting it in the fuse box and screwing it on the fuse. 😱☠️ But nothing happened. Should I have been roasted? 😕 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 3 minutes ago, null said: Thanks a lot for the photo. Indeed mine have the same space for screws, though it would mean disassembling the wheel well and piercing it. I guess I’ll epoxy it, not so keen on major disassembly and adding holes. Your fuses are marked « 50 » I suppose Ampere. Mine are 100. I hope it’s not too high to be usefull, the XT connectors would fry before 😅 I guess you could use some superglue to glue it in place. Here is some reference, in case you should decide to drill and screw. https://www.rvrepairclub.com/video/screwing-into-plastic-008186/# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the stacking order, great to know will put some form of goo for safety. The lone wire is maybe just a demo of how the spades / things should be added. As for roasting: I suspected there would have to be some short with the battery itself but still, so much DC is scary! Edit: thanks for the link about plastic! Edited September 20, 2020 by null Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 5 minutes ago, null said: The lone wire is maybe just a demo of how the spades / things should be added. What lone wire do you mean? This is how it looked, when I got the batteries from my seller. Hope this helps with the installation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 Mine came after the assembled wheel, like this, together with the glass fiber sleeves etc. I don’t know what the single cable but would be for, your batteries seem symmetrical. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) 51 minutes ago, null said: Mine came after the assembled wheel, like this, together with the glass fiber sleeves etc. I don’t know what the single cable but would be for, your batteries seem symmetrical. Did you get only one of these red cables? If you have gotten two of them, it looks like the one in my picture A to B1. If you got only one it is probably just a sample regarding the length and the fuse side end of your battery cables. In this case you should have gotten 4 and not just 2 of these eyelet cable ends. But I don’t know 🤔. Sorry. I have really no clue about electrical things and always cut the main breaker of our whole house just to exchange a light bulb 💡 Edited September 20, 2020 by Toshio Uemura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Indeed, looks like A to B1. Only got one though, didn’t think of the length but that could be a good explanation. Just had a look at the little bag of screws and there are only two spades and corresponding heat shrink ... for 4x fuse connections.. the plot thickens x_x Thanks for your help, I’ll try where I got them from. Reporting back here if any news. Edited September 20, 2020 by null 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) 31 minutes ago, null said: Indeed, looks like A to B1. Only got one though, didn’t think of the length but that could be a good explanation. Just had a look at the little bag of screws and there are only two spades and corresponding heat shrink ... the plot thickens x_x Thanks for your help, I’ll try where I got them from. Reporting back here if any news. Yes. The plot thickens 😝 But I think if you get yourself 1. two more spades and heat shrinks, 2. cut the cable in the length of the red (sample) cable (wearing goggles and a neoprene suit for insulation just in case) 3. Glue the fuse boxes into the batterie chambers with some super glue (or chewing gum) Gorilla Super Glue 15 Gram, Clear, (Pack of 1) Visit the Gorilla Store 4. While the boxes are drying and hardening attach the spades to the cable ends. 5. Then mount everything together. 6. Check the battery voltage with an DMM (which is actually great fun) OR enjoy the spark ⚡️ This is how I would do it, but better ask some of the veterans here or a professional electrician, since I have no idea about electricity and with 100 V batteries 🔋 you should be extra careful. Good luck. Edited September 20, 2020 by Toshio Uemura 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks again @Toshio Uemura ! Very kind to detail the procedure, I would think something in that direction would make sense. They must have had some misunderstanding about the connector count, the fuses have 4 terminals total. I’d get my wet suit if I had one : D gloves will have to do.. reporting back if anything, will take some weeks to order stuff and get back one of my spare wheels anyway. Cheers and all. Edit: mine came with the fuse boxes already installed, sorry for the fuss! Edited December 22, 2020 by null 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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