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V5F died, best way to store it & warranty & manual fix?


Crooznfbroozn

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Edit: ok so I think I figured it out. TL;DR: was going down a trail with some sand, wheel kicked me off, I went to grab it and heard a pop. Constantly brakes until the 3 plugs are removed from the mainboard. The green thing that says "30" looks smoked on the mainboard. (Also one out of 3 capacitors is black?)

So! What's the best way of storing the wheel until I can get a new mainboard? I unplugged the battery from the board as well as the 3 plugs.

Also, how does one invoke warranty in the EU? Can the mainboard be fixed manually? (I can solder/de solder) 

IMG-20200919-194458.jpg2I8wMv.png

Edited by Crooznfbroozn
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21 minutes ago, amelanso said:

the thing with 30 is a 30A fuse - replace it! You can buy these at any hrdware/automotive store. Then chk behavior... 

Huh! That makes a lot of sense lol. Would soldering on one of these work? (Can't find any made for circuit boards)

autozekering-verpakt-6-stuks.jpg

Still very curious as to how the fuse could blow 🤔

Thanks a bunch!

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14 hours ago, amelanso said:

see here - 

 

Thanks! I didn't realize these are just normal car fuses.

I replaced the bust fuse. Unfortunately the wheel still self limits when I plug it onto the mainboard. (I haven't plugged the battery in, I'm assuming that will lead straight to the fuse popping again)

From reading the forum, it is down to a short circuit with mosfets / motor cables being the likely culprit. 

Putting the multimeter to all 6 mosfets, 2 of them are in a short loop (both the "blue" motor connection) mosfets. Coincidentally, there is no more glue on these... Maybe a sign they overheated and burned up the glue?

Time to order some mosfets and see what happens... What a pain!!!

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Myeah, from another thread I picked up the mosfets should be soldered with silver? 

I looked at an old picture when the EUC was still fine and the one capacitor was black there too so I think the capacitors are fine.

Still, I get you, shouldn't be riding at high speeds with something that was messed with by yours truly.

All in all, very disappointed the EUC barely lasted over a month.

It didn't give me any warnings or anything, dropped dead and then blew a fuse. So it feels like something got too hot, fizzled, then caused a short.

 

 

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11 hours ago, Crooznfbroozn said:

Myeah, from another thread I picked up the mosfets should be soldered with silver? 

If you really want to go the repair route, any decent leaded solder should be fine.

11 hours ago, Crooznfbroozn said:

I looked at an old picture when the EUC was still fine and the one capacitor was black there too so I think the capacitors are fine.

Ah, so you are saying that the blackness could have just been contamination from another component, not the cap itself? If it IS the cap itself, I will repeat, replace it. Even a slightly swollen one sent my friend down the road on his msx...

11 hours ago, Crooznfbroozn said:

All in all, very disappointed the EUC barely lasted over a month.

To be fair, I think you were just very unlucky. Theres an awful lot of V5's out there that are coping admirably even beyond the weight they were designed for. I know mine did, and was still going strong when I sold it.

11 hours ago, Crooznfbroozn said:

It didn't give me any warnings or anything, dropped dead and then blew a fuse. So it feels like something got too hot, fizzled, then caused a short.

It is indeed pretty bad luck. I never had a single issue with mine. And you are correct, if the wheel brakes with the motor wires connected then a mosfet has blown. Maybe replace all 6 whilst you are there, they aren't exactly expensive. Assuming you can find the right spec of course.

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Thanks for the input @Planemo!

I replaced the tire tube a few weeks ago, hence me opening up the EUC and taking a picture of the mainboard. The capacitor was black (the metal top part of it) then already, the plastic around it entirely undamaged. The wheel has been working fine for weeks after until things went wrong.

Wondering now if maybe that isn't just an aesthetic thing and the mainboard has been at risk the entire time... Then at least it's a good thing it decided to kick me off at only 5km/h! :o

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20 hours ago, Crooznfbroozn said:

I replaced the bust fuse. Unfortunately the wheel still self limits when I plug it onto the mainboard. (I haven't plugged the battery in, I'm assuming that will lead straight to the fuse popping again)

 

You appear to be pretty capable with DIY - test the cap to see if it is toast.

https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Troubleshhoting_logic_board_components#Section_Testing_Capacitors

For the mosfets - certainly easier to replace the board but you`ve come this far - why not take it to the end! replacing the mosfets will be alot cheaper and so much more satisfying if you fix the board yourself! YOu will need some solder wick (copper braid) etc. but I think worth trying!

 

 

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Thanks for the support @amelanso!

Took me a bit longer as the KS16X arrived and I got distracted. However, I replaced the 2 mosfets I found to be broken, checked the caps and they were fine, replaced the cooling gel...

And voila, works like new 😬 I'll be taking it easy on her for now, see how things go. But indeed looks like a case of fried mosfets causing a short. Now why she didn't just kick me off saying overload.... No idea. I did notice the build year is 2018. Maybe the cooling gel wasn't doing its job. Still shouldn't have fried without a warning 🤔

P.s. I did mail Inmotion worldwide to see about warranty... No response. 

Edited by Crooznfbroozn
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