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Toshio Uemura

Tire tube replacement in a few minutes - a dream?

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A German friend of a friend of mine invented an ingenious double ended tube, that allows replacement without removing the complete wheel. I think at present it is only for bicycles tube sizes, but I could ask if they would manufacture tube sizes for EUC‘s. Would their be a market?

 

E38D9B26-077C-4DB3-B94D-7DB2982DE34B.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

A German friend of a friend of mine invented an ingenious double ended tube, that allows replacement without removing the complete wheel. I think at present it is only for bicycles tube sizes, but I could ask if they would manufacture tube sizes for EUC‘s. Would their be a market?

 

E38D9B26-077C-4DB3-B94D-7DB2982DE34B.jpeg

Good news is that this has already been available in the chinese market for ages, and getting dealers/aliexpress stores to stock it would be easy.

Screenshot_20200908-170055.thumb.jpg.aa88b2959e3e0fc4a9c4260a0ac8b0f9.jpg

Bad news is somebody got their IP ripped off. Condolences

Edited by Tinkererboi
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1 hour ago, Tinkererboi said:

Good news is that this has already been available in the chinese market for ages, and getting dealers/aliexpress stores to stock it would be easy.

Screenshot_20200908-170055.thumb.jpg.aa88b2959e3e0fc4a9c4260a0ac8b0f9.jpg

Bad news is somebody got their IP ripped off. Condolences

Thanks for this interesting information. I was somehow expecting that one or the other Chinese company might not care to much about patents. But knowing that such tubes are available for EUCs is great news for me and was the main purpose of my quest here, to find out, if this would be of advantage for the community or if such tubes are a bad idea and slime or buying a new EUC 🤣 would be the better choice. I once changed a control board, but I wouldn’t want to change or repair a tire. 😝 

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Someone will have to explain to me how this would save us any time in changing a tube. You still have to pull the motor away from the shell enough to be able to remove the tire from one of the rims.

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Someone will have to explain to me how this would save us any time in changing a tube. You still have to pull the motor away from the shell enough to be able to remove the tire from one of the rims.

I can.

1st and foremost and the thing i see people doing "the wrong way" over and over on Youtube.

Easiest way to change tyre is to do it one the "non motor cable side" (im sure you know that allready @Marty Backe) as that means no need to disconnect any motor cables, just side panels off, battery off, discharge, remove that shell half and off you go with tyre/tube change, wheel still attached to motor cable side of chassis and that pedal, ring light still attached (pedal helps stabilize it when your working even)

2nd regarding time saving AND CONS on a split tube solution.

This "split tyre" while easy to change (will come to that) would never end up on my euc. In the "split" of the halves you would with 99% certainty get a small uneveness in counter pressure towards the tyre. With the pressure we run on EUC (far above stated pressure on most tyres) that means a pretty bumpy ride every turn of the wheel. While it might be acceptable going straight, I for one dont want a tyre that bumps in a turn as that could cause me to loose grip and end up in a horizontal body position ;-) Likely ad bad or worse than a severely dented RIM.

Why its easier with a split tube?

Well you pry off the tyre without splitting shell halves (can be done, but might get some brusies) and that would work on a Tesla if i remove part of the the ring light and lower "plastic piece". As soon as the tyre is pryed off from one side of the tyre pull out the old hose and insert the new split one while rotating the wheel. For sure you will need talkum and do a few rounds to feel its properly in place and...it will be tricky, but it would save a lot of time vs in my case

-splitting shell (forcefully due to silicone) and disconnect battery + ring light + one pedal + trolley (one side to get to a screw)

(Change tube here)

- remove and reapply silicone on shell halves (i prefer that above the gotway tape at motherboard, not keen on water)

- reassemble (6 for pedal hangers one side + 10 for shell + 2+3 screws for trolley a bunch of snap on plastic)

- re-insert batteries and reconnect

- re attach 2* panels (2*4 screws) and 1 pedal 

Above is the time i save, but inrather do that and ride SAFE than using some bumpy split tube :-)

I dont even want to think about the risk of a blowout at the 2x places where this split tube is "sealed together". A blowout there would mean 1-2seconds till you ride on a rim 🙈

Edited by Boogieman

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46 minutes ago, Boogieman said:

I dont even want to think about the risk of s blowout at the 2x places where this split tube is "sealed together". A blowout there would mesn 1-2seconds till you ride on a rim 🙈

Thanks 🙏 for the detailed discussion of all the problems involved. I trust, you are probably right and my gut feeling already told me that this tube might not be what it promises, BUT the idea to get around the hustle of a full tire change was just too tempting to not discuss it with you PROs. Thanks 😊 for taking the time to debunk it in detail.

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3 hours ago, Boogieman said:

I can.

1st and foremost and the thing i see people doing "the wrong way" over and over on Youtube.

Easiest way to change tyre is to do it one the "non motor cable side" (im sure you know that allready @Marty Backe) as that means no need to disconnect any motor cables, just side panels off, battery off, discharge, remove that shell half and off you go with tyre/tube change, wheel still attached to motor cable side of chassis and that pedal, ring light still attached (pedal helps stabilize it when your working even)

2nd regarding time saving AND CONS on a split tube solution.

This "split tyre" while easy to change (will come to that) would never end up on my euc. In the "split" of the halves you would with 99% certainty get a small uneveness in counter pressure towards the tyre. With the pressure we run on EUC (far above stated pressure on most tyres) that means a pretty bumpy ride every turn of the wheel. While it might be acceptable going straight, I for one dont want a tyre that bumps in a turn as that could cause me to loose grip and end up in a horizontal body position ;-) Likely ad bad or worse than a severely dented RIM.

Why its easier with a split tube?

Well you pry off the tyre without splitting shell halves (can be done, but might get some brusies) and that would work on a Tesla if i remove part of the the ring light and lower "plastic piece". As soon as the tyre is pryed off from one side of the tyre pull out the old hose and insert the new split one while rotating the wheel. For sure you will need talkum and do a few rounds to feel its properly in place and...it will be tricky, but it would save a lot of time vs in my case

-splitting shell (forcefully due to silicone) and disconnect battery + ring light + one pedal + trolley (one side to get to a screw)

(Change tube here)

- remove and reapply silicone on shell halves (i prefer that above the gotway tape at motherboard, not keen on water)

- reassemble (6 for pedal hangers one side + 10 for shell + 2+3 screws for trolley a bunch of snap on plastic)

- re-insert batteries and reconnect

- re attach 2* panels (2*4 screws) and 1 pedal 

Above is the time i save, but inrather do that and ride SAFE than using some bumpy split tube :-)

I dont even want to think about the risk of a blowout at the 2x places where this split tube is "sealed together". A blowout there would mean 1-2seconds till you ride on a rim 🙈

It just so happens that I'm fixing a flat on my Tesla V2. As you say, I opened it on the non-motor-wire side so I didn't have to disconnect cables, etc. Relatively easy.

But I still think it would be an awful experience trying to separate the tire from the rim without opening the shell. I don't think it would be worth my bloody fingers :D

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I watched @Marty Backe V11 tube change. That should have been 90% easier to do. They need a motor connection box like the S18. Most of the time was spent unplugging the motor wires. You have to remove one of the control boards.  :facepalm:
If they had a connection box for the motor wires and access holes for the (8? ) screws you could pull the motor and tire in a few minutes.  

Edited by RockyTop

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