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Ninebot One E+ First impressions & experience from a newb

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​If you got it from the Ninbot ebay store then you should get the right wheel. I doubt they would want dupe you with a different wheel. There's only a sticker that says E+ next to the E on the box. However, if you got the wheel from a different vendor then double check your batter - behind the right leg pad. To get to it remove the LED ring (snaps off/on) and unscrew the leg/battery cover. 

​thanks, it's very reassuring to here that.

but i guess  any seller on ebay could easily claim they are an official ninebot dealer.:mellow:

 

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New to this site.  I'm a 56 yr old rider but still young at heart!  Seen these wheels on youtube and knew I just had to have one.  I started out with a Yoobao ecycle and moved up to a Airwheel Q3.  The dual wheel was easier to learn for me.  However I mastered the single wheel finally and got a Ninebot One E.  Actually I am posting here because I ordered a Ninebot One E+ on ebay from a dealer in Hong Kong.  It was a good deal but they sent me a E model instead.  Had the wheel here for over a week while I tried to work out a resolution and ended up accepting a partial refund to keep the wheel.  Actually I am happy with the E model as it is faster than I can run anyway.  I can ride it all day at 19 kph and starts tilting back at just between 20 and 21 kph.  It was one of the last E models made and from my understanding it has the new board that the E+ models have but not the new motor.  I would have loved to have gotten what I ordered and paid for but I guess when you're dealing with overseas dealers you are taking that chance.  Like I said, I am happy with the resolution so keeping the E for me was not a problem.  I just hope they don't stop with any updates for the older model.  I'm guessing they will support it for awhile.  (I hope)  My wheel has no overspeed beep which can be anoying on the Q3 but will beep when the battery get low or I manage to overburden the battery with a fast uphill climb, but those are great warnings and I pay attention to those.  I've faceplanted on my Yoobao which does not have any indication the battery is going to die.  It just shuts down while you are riding.  I am aware of it now and know the dropoff of performance so I get off of it before it shuts down.  Pain is a good teacher.... :blink:

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New to this site.  I'm a 56 yr old rider but still young at heart!  Seen these wheels on youtube and knew I just had to have one.  I started out with a Yoobao ecycle and moved up to a Airwheel Q3.  The dual wheel was easier to learn for me.  However I mastered the single wheel finally and got a Ninebot One E.  Actually I am posting here because I ordered a Ninebot One E+ on ebay from a dealer in Hong Kong.  It was a good deal but they sent me a E model instead.  Had the wheel here for over a week while I tried to work out a resolution and ended up accepting a partial refund to keep the wheel.  Actually I am happy with the E model as it is faster than I can run anyway.  I can ride it all day at 19 kph and starts tilting back at just between 20 and 21 kph.  It was one of the last E models made and from my understanding it has the new board that the E+ models have but not the new motor.  I would have loved to have gotten what I ordered and paid for but I guess when you're dealing with overseas dealers you are taking that chance.  Like I said, I am happy with the resolution so keeping the E for me was not a problem.  I just hope they don't stop with any updates for the older model.  I'm guessing they will support it for awhile.  (I hope)  My wheel has no overspeed beep which can be anoying on the Q3 but will beep when the battery get low or I manage to overburden the battery with a fast uphill climb, but those are great warnings and I pay attention to those.  I've faceplanted on my Yoobao which does not have any indication the battery is going to die.  It just shuts down while you are riding.  I am aware of it now and know the dropoff of performance so I get off of it before it shuts down.  Pain is a good teacher.... :blink:

​how did you discover twas an E and not the E+ as ordered? was it labelled just with an E?

 

Edited by al_gator

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Hi al_gator.  After I saw the model check marked on the side of the box as an E model, I removed the side leg pad to reveal the battery.  It was a 240WH battery that is used in the E model and not the 320WH battery that is exclusive to the E+ model. 

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Hi al_gator.  After I saw the model check marked on the side of the box as an E model, I removed the side leg pad to reveal the battery.  It was a 240WH battery that is used in the E model and not the 320WH battery that is exclusive to the E+ model. 

​Thanks river_rider;)

that's what im exactly going to do when my order arrives. 

But i've already contacted them(ebay seller) to make sure the correct model is sent out to me and said they will anyway but still worried tho as like what you said when you're dealing with overseas dealers you're never sure what lies ahead:unsure:

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​Thanks river_rider;)

that's what im exactly going to do when my order arrives. 

But i've already contacted them(ebay seller) to make sure the correct model is sent out to me and said they will anyway but still worried tho as like what you said when you're dealing with overseas dealers you're never sure what lies ahead:unsure:

​I'm sure you'll be ok.  I got a deal that was too good to be true for the E+ model.  I should have followed up before I bought it.  Your box should have the new markings with C, C+, E, E+ and the E+ should be checked.  My box only had the model C, E and some kind of model P.  That's what alerted me.  This is the first time in years I've had a problem with an order from ebay.  Returns to China can be a expensive proposition.  That's why they were willing to send a partial refund.  It ended up making the E model a good deal in buying.  I ended up with a nice wheel that I'm more than happy riding and I think but not sure that I got the new board that is in the E+.  From what I read, the last runs of the E model used those boards.  All I know is the annoying beep that most E owners have isn't there and the boards are level and 20 kph. It only beeps at extreme overspeed long after the boards tilt back and when I try riding fast up a hill.  I usually have the watt meter pegged.  I just slow down a kph or 2 and the motor comes back into normal wattage and it goes away.

Edited by River_rider

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That's funny my E+ battery is blue but has a ninebot sticker on it and the correct battery size.  

​The E+ comes with a blue battery. The yellow wrapped ones are probably replacements. Makes sense as Ninebot warranty's their battery, so should you bring it in for service they would know if it was replaced or not. I'm just speculating though. Could be another reason?

IMG_3946.jpg

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River_rider,

I'm glad they at least they compensated you for your wheel. Though, that was shady. 

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​The E+ comes with a blue battery. The yellow wrapped ones are probably replacements. Makes sense as Ninebot warranty's their battery, so should you bring it in for service they would know if it was replaced or not. I'm just speculating though. Could be another reason?

​Sounds plausible, the part number (400-607-0001) appears to be the same in both colors. Just noticed that the nominal voltage of Ninebot one batteries is 55.5V instead of the usual 60V. Maybe they're going Apple, and want to make sure third party parts are harder to use? :P  But I'd think that would give lower torque than 60V.

Edit: that would also explain how they can build 240Wh and 320Wh batteries into a single smallish looking pack, less cells in series? 15S or 14S?

Edit2:

I did some snooping around and counted the number of cells in Ninebot battery packs from pictures here, they seem to have cells in 2 rows, I thought they were single row-batteries, so not as small (physically) as I thought:

240Wh:
http://www.electricunicycleonline.com/original-320wh-battery-for-ninebot-one-e.html

320Wh: http://www.electricunicycleonline.com/original-320wh-battery-for-ninebot-one-e.html


240Wh:
8 cell rows front, 7 cell rows back, 2 per column = 30 cells total
240Wh/30 cells = 8Wh per cell

55.5V nominal voltage, assuming 15 cells in series (so the battery pack would be 15S2P), nominal voltage per cell is 55.5V / 15 = 3.7V per cell, and nominal capacity per cell would be 8Wh / 3.7V = 2.1621...Ah, so roughly 2200mAh.


For the 320Wh version, it's harder to tell if there are 2 or 3 rows... at least there are 8 rows in front, and looks like 7 rows in the back, giving the same 30 cells total.
320Wh/30 cells = 10.66666... Wh per cell

And capacity per cell with same nominal voltage as 240Wh would be 10.6666.. Wh / 3.7V = 
2.88288Ah = about 2900mAh per cell.

I think both 3.7V/2200mAh and 3.7V/2900mAh cells are pretty standard, so I'd expect these to be right.

Edited by esaj

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​Sounds plausible, the part number (400-607-0001) appears to be the same in both colors. Just noticed that the nominal voltage of Ninebot one batteries is 55.5V instead of the usual 60V. Maybe they're going Apple, and want to make sure third party parts are harder to use? :P  But I'd think that would give lower torque than 60V.

​The torque on my wheel seems fine for my everyday use. I've gone up some pretty steep (at least what I consider) hills without any problems. I did prepare myself for the wheel to shut off as it felt like I could be leaning into it a little too much. But nope, made it up with a little speed. 

Edit2:

I did some snooping around and counted the number of cells in Ninebot battery packs from pictures here, they seem to have cells in 2 rows, I thought they were single row-batteries, so not as small (physically) as I thought:

240Wh:
http://www.electricunicycleonline.com/original-320wh-battery-for-ninebot-one-e.html

320Wh: http://www.electricunicycleonline.com/original-320wh-battery-for-ninebot-one-e.html


240Wh:
8 cell rows front, 7 cell rows back, 2 per column = 30 cells total
240Wh/30 cells = 8Wh per cell

55.5V nominal voltage, assuming 15 cells in series (so the battery pack would be 15S2P), nominal voltage per cell is 55.5V / 15 = 3.7V per cell, and nominal capacity per cell would be 8Wh / 3.7V = 2.1621...Ah, so roughly 2200mAh.


For the 320Wh version, it's harder to tell if there are 2 or 3 rows... at least there are 8 rows in front, and looks like 7 rows in the back, giving the same 30 cells total.
320Wh/30 cells = 10.66666... Wh per cell

And capacity per cell with same nominal voltage as 240Wh would be 10.6666.. Wh / 3.7V = 
2.88288Ah = about 2900mAh per cell.

I think both 3.7V/2200mAh and 3.7V/2900mAh cells are pretty standard, so I'd expect these to be right.

​You lost me at "Edit 2:" :huh: lol :lol:

My knowledge of batteries is slim and is mostly limited to what I read in this forum. I try to keep up, but... :huh: 

Is there a way to pack 30 cells of 4000mAh (or higher) batteries to give me longer range? 444Wh?
4000mAh x 3.7V = 14800/1000 = 14.8 x 30(cells) = 444Wh
...I think?:wacko:

 

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My knowledge of batteries is slim and is mostly limited to what I read in this forum. I try to keep up, but... :huh: 

Is there a way to pack 30 cells of 4000mAh (or higher) batteries to give me longer range? 444Wh?
4000mAh x 3.7V = 14800/1000 = 14.8 x 30(cells) = 444Wh
...I think?:wacko:

 

​Yeah, I'm not that good with batteries either, but trying to learn... and don't quote me on this, as I'm not sure, but in addition to higher capacity cells, you should be able to use higher nominal voltage cells also (if such are available), as long as the electronics & motor can take it, that's what Vee73 did with the LiPos in the 18" MSuper, I think it now has something like 66V or 72V nominal / 900Wh LiPo -batteries vs. 60V nominal / 850Wh with the originals, the LiPos give more torque with higher voltage and lower voltage drop under load, but aren't really safe from what I've gathered ;). Probably the right people to ask more about batteries would be hobby16, vee73, and whoever has taken more part in the battery mod topics under Mods & repairs.

The thing is, building your own packs of this high voltage/capacity from single cells is very difficult, even to people who know what they're doing (I don't), as you need to pair the cells, spot-welding machinery, BMSs etc... so the best/easiest way to go would be to buy some ready-made packs and wire them in series to get the correct voltage, but then you need specialized chargers, as the packs don't have their own BMSs at all (see the latest posts in vee73's "I plan to test" -thread to catch a glimpse what sort of charger-systems he has, not the kind you just plug in to a wall...) . So doable, but not that easy, and I wouldn't suggest it to people who don't know that much about batteries (myself included)... 

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​Yeah, I'm not that good with batteries either, but trying to learn... and don't quote me on this, as I'm not sure, but in addition to higher capacity cells, you should be able to use higher nominal voltage cells also (if such are available), as long as the electronics & motor can take it, that's what Vee73 did with the LiPos in the 18" MSuper, I think it now has something like 66V or 72V nominal / 900Wh LiPo -batteries vs. 60V nominal / 850Wh with the originals, the LiPos give more torque with higher voltage and lower voltage drop under load, but aren't really safe from what I've gathered ;). Probably the right people to ask more about batteries would be hobby16, vee73, and whoever has taken more part in the battery mod topics under Mods & repairs.

The thing is, building your own packs of this high voltage/capacity from single cells is very difficult, even to people who know what they're doing (I don't), as you need to pair the cells, spot-welding machinery, BMSs etc... so the best/easiest way to go would be to buy some ready-made packs and wire them in series to get the correct voltage, but then you need specialized chargers, as the packs don't have their own BMSs at all (see the latest posts in vee73's "I plan to test" -thread to catch a glimpse what sort of charger-systems he has, not the kind you just plug in to a wall...) . So doable, but not that easy, and I wouldn't suggest it to people who don't know that much about batteries (myself included)... 

​I'm keeping an eye on what vee73 is doing as I want to see him achieve what he's setting out to do, make EU's a sport. I read all about the battery mods but can't keep like with them, though, I am learning a lot because of it. I wouldn't dare try and make my own battery pack. The most I would do is reseal my own pack should it tear and even then I might seek out for someone else to do it. I'd rather just plug-n-play.

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If the standard nominal voltage on a Ninebot is 55v then if there is room to squeeze a 60v battery pack from another manufacturer in there you should get a huge power/speed boost almost 10% as long as the control board doesn't blow.

 

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If the standard nominal voltage on a Ninebot is 55v then if there is room to squeeze a 60v battery pack from another manufacturer in there you should get a huge power/speed boost almost 10% as long as the control board doesn't blow.

 

​I would love to plug in a stock higher capacity battery. I just fear something would go wrong. Maybe after I get my next EU (whenever that is?). Hell, I would put formed solar panels on my wheel if it was a viable option to give me more range (and a source of collecting energy should I be stranded somewhere).

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Test fitted the Sony AZ1 mini cam to my wheel. I used the helmet cam mount (curved) and a 9" velcro strap. I had to wedge a temporary rolled up paper towel to balance it out. Now I need to figure out Adobe Premiere to chop up a 20-25 minute video into about 5 minutes. I opted for this cam because of the image stabilization, as it can be a bit rough. I love the size and hopefully the video that comes out. We'll see... :)

9B1-SonyAZ1-SerpentineGX.jpg

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Excellent, first class! Thanks for the video.

Would you please share some details about the cam. 

Cheers!

 

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Just registered here to thank you SerpentineGX for posting this review.

I received my 9b1 E+ in the beginning of May and started my training on my lawn first, then moved on to the garage and a few weeks later I am riding it daily along traffic with no big issues. I mainly got it for commuting as I have one steep hill on my way to work that would make me dripping in sweat if I used the bike.

For your amusement some moving pictures from the lawn-training
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5Ip0kByVCE

 

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Hi there I too have a ninebot one e but must say I have not issues with the unit shaking and have updated the firmware on my bot as well.if it's happening around the 10/12kmh mark are u sure u don't have the limited speed setting activated as this set at that speed?

Also as the wheel nears the speed limit it shouldn't shake or oscillate but simply tilt the foot plates up.I must say I haven't had any issues with mine (touch wood ;) ).Have you spoken to Ian at speedyfeet.uk as he is extremely helpful as well as knowledgeable with regards to all things ninebot one.

 

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