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43 minutes ago, RagingGrandpa said:

My assumptions are:

  1. System input voltage is the same (100.8V max)

This is one assumption that until recently I would have agreed with.

Taking the old 100.8v MSX for example, I had no doubt that the speedmasters known as Gotway would have run the motor at the max voltage wherever possible to obtain max speed. However, having now confirmed that a later (possibly RS board) gave the same wheel a 4mph gain everywhere, including beep speeds, I have to conclude that the old MSX 100v C30 motor wasnt being run to its full rpm capacity. I was surprised to say the least.

So with that, we cant just assume that the motors are being run at full voltage. As I have already mentioned, it does make me question whether the new RS high speed C30 motor is any beefier in spec when I know the old MSX C30 can also achieve the same speed. Maybe the new C30 can give the same speed as the old C30, but also with the torque of the MSP. I dont know, but it would be interesting to find out :) 

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FWIW everyone forgets this design originated from the 18” MSuperV3 many moons ago, and that wheel was much more like this RS19, slightly lower pedals for a more weight balanced wheel. When they m

EcoDrift pictures of the RS: Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) EcoDrift disassembles the RS (and compares to MSP and MSX): Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) All picture

Can be used, but are not used (see V11 - 12AWG or 14AWG or whatever is NOT a thick cable).  I think that's one of the biggest disappointments - the manufacturers finally switch to thicker axles (

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34 minutes ago, Planemo said:

This is one assumption that until recently I would have agreed with.

Taking the old 100.8v MSX for example, I had no doubt that the speedmasters known as Gotway would have run the motor at the max voltage wherever possible to obtain max speed. However, having now confirmed that a later (possibly RS board) gave the same wheel a 4mph gain everywhere, including beep speeds, I have to conclude that the old MSX 100v C30 motor wasnt being run to its full rpm capacity. I was surprised to say the least.

So with that, we cant just assume that the motors are being run at full voltage. As I have already mentioned, it does make me question whether the new RS high speed C30 motor is any beefier in spec when I know the old MSX C30 can also achieve the same speed. Maybe the new C30 can give the same speed as the old C30, but also with the torque of the MSP. I dont know, but it would be interesting to find out :) 

I have the RS19 Speed. I will find out soon.

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3 hours ago, Afeez Kay said:

I have the RS19 Speed. I will find out soon.

Awesome bud. We'll be (im)patiently awaiting your impressions/review! Please don't keep us waiting too long ya😬

2 hours ago, Planemo said:

Cool :) and whats a '19' ??! Theres more Gotway models than I have brain cells these days..:wacko:

I think the RS19 is misnomer given by one (or perhaps some) of the Ali stores. I'm guessing 19 is  to signify it has a 19" tire. GW designates it as the RS.

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Any opinions on how crazy it would be to buy a RS19 C30 for a first wheel?  There is a neoprene bodyguard designed to fit the MSP that would most likely work for protecting the RS while I learn and I'm wanting a wheel that will still be suitable well after the learning phase.

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4 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

Any opinions on how crazy it would be to buy a RS19 C30 for a first wheel?  There is a neoprene bodyguard designed to fit the MSP that would most likely work for protecting the RS while I learn and I'm wanting a wheel that will still be suitable well after the learning phase.

Some people bought the veteran Sherman as their first wheel. The RS is just another wheel out there. 

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23 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

Any opinions on how crazy it would be to buy a RS19 C30 for a first wheel?  There is a neoprene bodyguard designed to fit the MSP that would most likely work for protecting the RS while I learn and I'm wanting a wheel that will still be suitable well after the learning phase.

I think that it would be a great first wheel so long as the rider stays within his/her limitations while learning to ride. The added benefit is that the rider will not outgrow a RS as their skills progress.

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1 hour ago, KiwiMark said:

Any opinions on how crazy it would be to buy a RS19 C30 for a first wheel?  There is a neoprene bodyguard designed to fit the MSP that would most likely work for protecting the RS while I learn and I'm wanting a wheel that will still be suitable well after the learning phase.

It's no different to buying a sports car to learn to drive except perhaps that EUC's are a lot more difficult to learn and, of course, you don't get a crumple zone or a seat belt. There's not only your own safety to consider, if you fall at speed then that 60lb wheel could easily continue on and make a real mess of someone or something.

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8 minutes ago, mike_bike_kite said:

It's no different to buying a sports car to learn to drive except perhaps that EUC's are a lot more difficult to learn and, of course, you don't get a crumple zone or a seat belt. There's not only your own safety to consider, if you fall at speed then that 60lb wheel could easily continue on and make a real mess of someone or something.

My understanding is that you can set the speed for tilt-back in software so that it is super easy to keep the speed down until you are ready to go faster, this seems like a great feature for a learner rider.  I'm considering this wheel (27kg) instead of a Tesla V2 (22kg) and my thought is that the weight difference isn't huge so the risk doesn't change by a great deal.  My motorcycle weighs over 250kg and can exceed 200kph, with care and protective gear I don't see an EUC as being all that dangerous.

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5 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

Tesla V2 (22kg)

just for reference Tesla2 is 19.5kg ;) but yes take an MSP :thumbup:

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26 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

.. My motorcycle weighs over 250kg and can exceed 200kph, with care and protective gear I don't see an EUC as being all that dangerous.

Being a ex motorcyclist, I'd say ya, the chances of death & destruction on a wheel is slim to none so long as one stays far far far away from mixing with autos on main street. That said, the wheel will give you much more opportunities for scratches, cuts & bruises esp on the ankles, legs, arms & hand/palm. At least that true for me but hey, I'm as coordinated as a donkey doing da moonwalk😁.

Far's a learner wheel, personally I'd pick the RS/MSP over the Mten3 all day any day. Unless ofcos one wants to learn on a bucking bronco🤠.

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29 minutes ago, Scottie888 said:

the wheel will give you much more opportunities for scratches, cuts & bruises esp on the ankles, legs, arms & hand/palm

 

I need the use of my hands, don't want them damaged.  I have motorcycle gloves and I have wrist protectors - I've ordered a combination wrist protectors/gloves after seeing a pair on a Wrong Way video.

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17 hours ago, Mark Wilson said:

I don't know a lot about electric motors, but I'm almost positive this is not true.

He's correct, sorta kinda not really. 

Kt=1/Kv

So if he had said motor torque constant, he would have been right.  If the no load speed of two motors is the same with the same voltage, then they have the same torque constant too.  Torque constant, is how much torque you get per amp input.

However, that isn't what he said.  Clearly, you can have two wheels, and one can max out at 2x the current of the other because of a better controller, or one could have 24 gauge leads, and the other 4 gauge....which one can you put more amps through before it catches fire? But also, you can't have unlimited torque, at some point the field saturates, and the whole Kt=1/Kv breaks down and isn't true anymore.  So many things go into the torque a wheel can do.  But its ideal motor torque constant...yes, that is the same.  Is the peak torque the same?  Only if you got lucky, or the limit on wheel 1 is the limit on wheel 2 and the motor isn't the limit.  (Like the controller, for example)

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17 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Agreed on this list.  Maybe add battery pack internal resistance is the same as well, since that will affect voltage droop if you aren't limited by #6.

  1. System input voltage is the same (100.8V max)
  2. The permanent magnets are the same.
  3. Pole count is the same.
  4. Turn count is the same.
  5. Coil resistance is the same (because there is insufficient space to package thicker coils without changing #3 or #4)
  6. The motor control design (firmware) has negligible difference in maximum electrical current. (Meaning: power stages of the control boards are not substantially different.)

 

 

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20 hours ago, KiwiMark said:

Any opinions on how crazy it would be to buy a RS19 C30 for a first wheel?  There is a neoprene bodyguard designed to fit the MSP that would most likely work for protecting the RS while I learn and I'm wanting a wheel that will still be suitable well after the learning phase.

Marty (from electric unicycle in YouTube) told me he would recommend an MSP to a first timer with no reservations.  I was asking for myself at the time.  I ended up buying a 16x for a number of reasons, but I have little doubt I would have been fine with the MSP had I gone that way.  Just take it slow as you are learning and gear up.  I got confident very quickly but was careful to keep my speed slow for the first few weeks even though I was itching to go fast.  Wish I had enough dough to buy both wheels!

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41 minutes ago, longjohnsally said:

Marty (from electric unicycle in YouTube) told me he would recommend an MSP to a first timer with no reservations.

 

That's good to know, especially now that I've ordered my RS C30 (it will take a few weeks to arrive, the wait will be excruciating).  Luckily it is currently spring, heading towards summer - I should get a lot of good weather for riding when my very first wheel arrives. 

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On 9/26/2020 at 11:59 AM, meepmeepmayer said:

Ian from Speedyfeet always gets horrible range. Also he was riding 28mph all the time, speed eats battery like crazy. This is the expected behavior for a 1800Wh battery under the circumstances.

Normal riders can expect the normal 1800Wh range like any other 1800Wh wheel , which should easily be 65km (40 miles) or more.

Huh, I thought more normal range was like 60?  I get 60-65 miles or so estimated on my Nik+ (185 pounds geared, avg speed 22km, max typically around 32km/h)

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20km/h avg always get the best range, 100v wheels are pretty good at 30km/h too imho

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1 hour ago, /Dev/Null said:

Huh, I thought more normal range was like 60?  I get 60-65 miles or so estimated on my Nik+ (185 pounds geared, avg speed 22km, max typically around 32km/h)

It really really depends on how fast you ride. If it's more like 60 miles for you (20 avg is slooooow though), then it's 60 miles. I estimated from my numbers which would give me closer to 40 miles as a lower bound for how I ride (30-35kph usually).

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7 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

It really really depends on how fast you ride. If it's more like 60 miles for you (20 avg is slooooow though), then it's 60 miles. I estimated from my numbers which would give me closer to 40 miles as a lower bound for how I ride (30-35kph usually).

I'm in a suburban subdivision with people walking in the street due to covid, bicycles, people walking pets, etc.  I'm sharing the road with these people & I stop at stop signs as well.  My average is 22, but probably ride at 25-27.  Probably safest for me to ride that speed unless it's empty out.  My other option is the main road at 72km/h a(people go 80km/h) and changes to 88km/h (people going 96-100) maybe 2-3km north of my house....

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If someone doesn't use power pads to use the full capability of the wheel, would the torque and speed version be about the same in ride feel (accelerating, braking, etc)?

What makes the speed version able to achieve higher top speed?

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