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That’s it! We need zerq fittings! Force in the new, squeeze out the old. Yeah. That’s what we did before these here fandangled ‘sealed’ bearings.

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FWIW everyone forgets this design originated from the 18” MSuperV3 many moons ago, and that wheel was much more like this RS19, slightly lower pedals for a more weight balanced wheel. When they m

EcoDrift pictures of the RS: Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) EcoDrift disassembles the RS (and compares to MSP and MSX): Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) All picture

Can be used, but are not used (see V11 - 12AWG or 14AWG or whatever is NOT a thick cable).  I think that's one of the biggest disappointments - the manufacturers finally switch to thicker axles (

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11 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I have never heard of such a thing. We always packed them beyond where they couldnt hold any more, to ensure even dispersion and flushing of foreign material. Hell, I paid dearly for a tool thats pnuematic, to assist in doing so. When time is money, packing bearings is expensive.

Well, now you have heard of it. Packing too much grease in serves no beneficial purpose and is detrimental beyond a certain point depending on bearing type. This is one of those bearing types.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28664/dangers-of-overgreasing-

https://www.maintworld.com/Applications/The-Three-Mistakes-of-Bearing-Lubrication

https://interflonusa.com/4-reasons-over-lubrication-of-bearings-is-bad/

 

greasy.jpg.474f67af62723292fd23dd35c8d7849b.jpg

 

Edited by WI_Hedgehog
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16 hours ago, WI_Hedgehog said:

Are you aware too much grease in the bearings causes the balls to skate and wear flat spots in them and the races?

I'm going to see how long I can run these with the water proof grease. I don't recall ever seeing petroleum jelly being used in bearings that are exposed to the elements. I'll check the current bearings in a few weeks or sooner if they fail. I'm sure it's going to get wet with rain soon. If it's not raining here it has either stopped raining or it will begin soon. I open the outer shell weekly to check for water intrusion. So far I haven't had any. I still need to figure out solutions for the trolly handle and power switch. Both are needed to have quick access. I have to trolly this thing through a security screening and about a half mile trollying to reach my work location.

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14 hours ago, Tawpie said:

That’s it! We need zerq fittings! Force in the new, squeeze out the old. Yeah. That’s what we did before these here fandangled ‘sealed’ bearings.

I used to work on a ranch and some of the equipment had sealed bearings. The bearings were in places that in order to change them out would require total teardown. We used to periodically grease those bearings using hypodermic needles filled with waterproof grease. After greasing we would cover the injection hole with rtv silicone.

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I just got an over heat warning from euc world and I think my fan is dead but I still need to get home. What is a safe max temperature to limp home at?

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32 minutes ago, Silver said:

I just got an over heat warning from euc world and I think my fan is dead but I still need to get home. What is a safe max temperature to limp home at?

I think the msp/ rs' overheat in the upper 70's C. 70 to 75C  would be the limit to get home. Gotway has put two ventalation holes in the outer shell on the right side of the rs. Get moving with minimal loading to get a little air circulation in the controller cavity.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Unipilot69 said:

think the msp/ rs' overheat in the upper 70's C. 70 to 75C 

Ok that's good. The temp alarm was set to 60C so I made it back without going over that

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8 hours ago, WI_Hedgehog said:

Well, now you have heard of it. Packing too much grease in serves no beneficial purpose and is detrimental beyond a certain point depending on bearing type. This is one of those bearing types.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28664/dangers-of-overgreasing-

https://www.maintworld.com/Applications/The-Three-Mistakes-of-Bearing-Lubrication

https://interflonusa.com/4-reasons-over-lubrication-of-bearings-is-bad/

 

greasy.jpg.474f67af62723292fd23dd35c8d7849b.jpg

 

Meh, i dont find it applies to this scenario or most applications outside of extreme duty. Of course you can put too much grease in. When it makes a total mess and slings everywhere, or when you keep forcing grease in until it creates pressure on boots or seals. Of course you can keep pushing grease in while a bearing is sealed and wreck seals or create pressure. I dont see how any of this applies when you pack a non sealed bearing while its NOT in the machine. Pack it wipe it, install it. Ultra sound testing and marketing of additives i see. Maybe theres a shred of validity to the argument, but I dont think splitting hairs here is even remotely an excuse why an improper design is failing in the euc bearing world. Honestly, how much pressure and speed do these puny euc's handle? I seriosuly doubt the friction of a thick grease is elevating temps. If it is so precise, why arent we being told what exact grease to use. Do we beliece the chinese are bothering to use it either? Under greasing bearings is causing rust and friction. "over greasing" a bearing is forcing foreign dirt and rust out while replacing with clean. I fail to see how 'overpacking' a bearing is really even overpacking, when you allow the excess to be forced out prior to instal, and wipe clean. Leaving a mess DOES attract dirt and also collects in areas it shouldnt. Excess grease outside of movement area , can also harden. I use the word 'grease' in a very general term, as theres TONS of varieties. I wonder what variety is coming stock with the new wheels?

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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1 hour ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I use the word 'grease' in a very general term, as theres TONS of varieties. I wonder what variety is coming stock with the new wheels?

 

Vaseline. That's probably why the failure rate is where it's at. My wife had a Chevrolet Tahoe 8 years ago it was a 2002 model year. If I recall the front wheel bearings were similar to the ones used on these hollow bore motors. I can't remember the exact size. They were a bit pricey but I changed a bad one at about 140,000 miles. I'm sure they weren't packed with vaseline. 

Edited by Unipilot69
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Devirginized the RS this morning. Drove across a patch of clear ice and the wheel hit the ground quicker than the blink of an eye. Was on my way back to my car after work. Was traveling a fast walking speed. Good thing not any faster. Was only wearing a helmet as far as safety gear. Security is a pain in the ass. I don't like stripping full knee, wrist,and elbow pads to pass through. My normal commute from car to work and back is mostly under 10 mph. I'm on a very busy sidewalk most of the way. At least there wasn't anyone around this morning.

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Haven't been able to put on the miles on as fast as some of ya'll but I hit 300miles and still no bearing problems. Haven't ridden in any heavy rain but I have ridden in some light rain, through puddles and even a few small creeks on mountain bike trails.

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500 mile ish mini review:

So far trouble free, only moisture has been the odd wet street, mostly from sprinklers but I was caught once in light rain.

Half on half off road. The off roading has been in dry dusty conditions with a good amount sand. 

Battery life is great cruising slowly around 18 to 22 mph. Riding over 30 drinks the juice but that was expected. The fun can be drained in less than 30 miles but sightseeing in the 20mph range can easily do 50 miles. 

I know I sound like a broken record but the HT version's (I have ridden the HS to compare) ability to mimic a billy goat still amazes me. I had to set up an amp alarm, one of the hills I road up the other day had EUC world showing 142 amps. I set a 120 amp alarm to warm me. These high loads only happen at very low speed on very steep mnt bike trails. 

The wheel and I are really starting to meld into one unit now and I think after I hit 1k miles I should be fully assimilated with the machine.

I'm still running the free power pads that eWheels sends out. I have then set up to lock my shoe (high tops) in the back. This keeps the feel on in bumpy terrain but pulling up only from the back makes the wheel spin up in the air risking it shutting off when in the air longer. I think it's time for proper pads like clark or sai pads to lock the foot in the front and the back. 

I still get wobbles breaking hard from over 30mph unless I carve while breaking, and I still get wobbles accelerating hard. I'm sure part of this if the pad setup and part is me only having 500 miles on it. My prior wheels are much smaller, 16s and mcm5. 16s I put about 2500 miles on and the mcm5 about 4k miles so my body is still used to a sub 40lb wheel. 

What pads are you guys using and are you happy with them?

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7 minutes ago, Flying W said:

What pads are you guys using and are you happy with them?

I'm on the included eWheels ones too. I was going to try to make some custom ones so I could jump better but the eWheel ones are fine enough that complacency set in and I'll probably not want to spend the time to upgrade.

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@Silver I feel the same way, changing would be like learning the wheel all over again haha. 

I ride slightly duck footed too so it's hard to have the front of my shoes close to the wheel body. 

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5 hours ago, Flying W said:

What pads are you guys using and are you happy with them?

my own, because i like a very wide position, i use them mostly for breaking and only for very steep slope. i can share btw 

IMG_20210227_085859_514.jpg

 

sharing a non scientific test but 1h of fun cruising at 50km/h on empty roads before curfew, 36km/h avg on app - RS ended with 50% - EX 70%

yellow mark is 46km/h - orange 50km/h

RS https://euc.world/tour/595542158252320

EX https://euc.world/tour/595765054865177

Edited by EMA
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@EMA nice pad setup! I like a wider range to move about too, plus my cafe muscles are large. 

I like them for breaking more, but your right on the very steep hills it's necessary!

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9 hours ago, Flying W said:

I still get wobbles breaking hard from over 30mph unless I carve while breaking, and I still get wobbles accelerating hard.

Deflating the tire slightly worked for me. Initially i would get crazy wobbles on the RS compared to older models, but after deflating from 45 psi 3 times i have almost no wobbles. I did deflate it more at first to the point of completely removing the wobbles but became worried about denting my rim so i found an equilibrium and stay there. Now i only get slight wobbles when rapidly braking from 80% beeps to 0km/h.

I couldn't tell you my pressure in psi or bar as i no longer have any means of making those measurements also i can imagine rider weight drastically affects tire pressure and how/when wobbles are felt. But deflating is easy, fast and without consequence if you can pump it back up from home to test out different amounts of pressure and how it corresponds to wobbles. 

Also in my experience pads only really have a negligible effect (if any) on wobbles/wobble control.
The factors that seem to affect wobbles and the ability to control and stabilize them the most seem to be tire pressure, rider weight and rider skill/experience.

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decrease tire pressure first to enhance grip .

Press with your toes on pedals

Carve while breaking to get confidence

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I do get less wobbles with lower pressure, but carving while breaking takes them away. I'm sure more miles will make it better too. It's amazing how many subconscious tiny movements happen on a wheel without you knowing. 

So far I like 30psi, riding weight is about 185lbs. This seems to be a good pressure for me if I'm on and off road in the same ride. 

I always have a hand pump with me so I can lower it if the off road is sandy. 

The mcm5 wobbles if you look at it but after 4k miles on one it doesn't wobble at all. My bad knee is much happier on the larger tire though! 

I'm also used to riding without pads so I'm sorry I'm still acclimating to having less room to move about. I'm sold on having some kind of pads on this wheel though, I don't think I could get all the power out it without them. 

I could over lean the mcm5 without pads on steep single track, the RS has never gone soft yet. 

 

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I've been riding a lot of mountain bike trails recently and my wheel has been getting up to 140F (60C) at a few points in my ride. Should I think about upgrading the fan in my wheel or is it fine?

Also since gotway doesn't do fuses, I've been thinking I should probably set a Current alarm since I've been riding a lot of steep hills what should I have it set too?

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60c should be perfectly fine, provided it's reading is correct.

I have a 120 amp alarm set, I've had it hit over 140 but that was a very steep short hill. I was expecting it to lose traction and I'd step off the front but it held and made it up. 

I'm convinced the RS HT will kill itself before the pedals go soft haha.

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3 hours ago, Flying W said:

I'm convinced the RS HT will kill itself before the pedals go soft haha.

Ha yeah, that's what I'm trying to avoid

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