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this is the main thing. i have my way of achieving this, but there are other ways i found and so the goal is just this, with regard to that knocking sound, im cut and pasting from the PM. im going to sleep man, sorry for the drama: 

 

but in the end, just remember that the sound is coming from a misaligned motor (magnet and coils should not be touching), and if you put the cover on and hear the noise, you must remove it and reinstall it again (very gently by installing the screws BEFORE the cover is even fully seated...so you can use the screws to gently close the lid, while making sure the motor is still centered (which is done by spinning it via the pedal).

this is your goal, however you decide to achieve it.

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FWIW everyone forgets this design originated from the 18” MSuperV3 many moons ago, and that wheel was much more like this RS19, slightly lower pedals for a more weight balanced wheel. When they m

EcoDrift pictures of the RS: Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) EcoDrift disassembles the RS (and compares to MSP and MSX): Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) All picture

Can be used, but are not used (see V11 - 12AWG or 14AWG or whatever is NOT a thick cable).  I think that's one of the biggest disappointments - the manufacturers finally switch to thicker axles (

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1 hour ago, StealthPhoenix said:

im too tired to defend my solution from naysayers is all.

I thought everyone was being pretty good about it, peeps just offering up their thoughts and trying to brainstorm in general. But hey, maybe I missed something.

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1 hour ago, StealthPhoenix said:

but in the end, just remember that the sound is coming from a misaligned motor .

I guess this doesnt solve the problem for people with rusty, graunchy bearings though.

Eg those that dont have a rhythmic knocking, or those bearings which clearly present issues without even being attached to the motor.

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@StealthPhoenix of I had not had the support of eWheels I'm sure I would have found the cause of the knocking as well. I know it wasn't bearings on my original wheel, something in the motor touching as it rotated was the most likely cause. 

When the bearings grind and sound horrible....those are bad bearings, but a knocking sound that is dependent on rpm is most certainly not bearings. My knock even smoothed out the faster you went being pretty much gone over 30mph (you could feel it in the pedals and that feeling lessened the fast you went). The more centrifugal force the less the issue. 

Once you've un-zombified please share more about your fix, brand new members looking for answers won't be able to pm you right away. 

I do think the crud collecting in the ridge, especially if wet, will be forced into the bearing over time and cause premature bearing failure, but the knocking is unrelated to the motor cover ridge issue. When it's bearing change time for me I will be drilling holes as shown in Ray Rokni's youtube video.

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3 hours ago, Flying W said:

@StealthPhoenix of I had not had the support of eWheels I'm sure I would have found the cause of the knocking as well. I know it wasn't bearings on my original wheel, something in the motor touching as it rotated was the most likely cause. 

When the bearings grind and sound horrible....those are bad bearings, but a knocking sound that is dependent on rpm is most certainly not bearings. My knock even smoothed out the faster you went being pretty much gone over 30mph (you could feel it in the pedals and that feeling lessened the fast you went). The more centrifugal force the less the issue. 

Once you've un-zombified please share more about your fix, brand new members looking for answers won't be able to pm you right away. 

I do think the crud collecting in the ridge, especially if wet, will be forced into the bearing over time and cause premature bearing failure, but the knocking is unrelated to the motor cover ridge issue. When it's bearing change time for me I will be drilling holes as shown in Ray Rokni's youtube video.

These are two, or more, different problems! 

the "tock" sound

2 Bearings rust problem (the design weakness of the hollow / bearing system)

What I can say about the "tock" is that the problem comes and goes ... it has been absent for a few days but today, putting the slime on the tire and turning the wheel with my hands, I felt it again albeit very weak! I got on the wheel and did 10 km without feeling anything. So for sure I think it's bearing-related (misalignment?) But water and dirt retention issues are another issue that somehow Ray tried to fix in his videos.

(sorry for my english, I hope was intelegible)

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18 minutes ago, Simply_Striking said:

What can I use to clean the motherboard, mines has a lot of dust all over it.

@buell47(from before: im inclined to say "water" LOL)

@Simply_Strikingcompressed air, in a can or if you have an air compressor at home. and then follow up with a dip or a mild wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol, then compressed air again. at least thats what i think.. could be wrong though, someone else can chime in as well.

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@StealthPhoenix before going out in rain tape the vent holes, trolley handle gap and power button (I'd tape over the rubber cover too). Also plug or tape the hole into the hollow boar where the motor wires go in and the same on the other side. 

This wheel cools very well but it also let's dust and water inside. 

I personally don't ride this wheel unless it's dry outside. 

I'm also pretty sure my original wheels knocking was caused by what you say :cheers:

 

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@Flying W man..the wheel rides so much smoother without that sound. im going to head out and do a 30-40 mile ride in a few minutes to see if my battery levels improve, because they really should. i was only able to do 30 miles previously with the intermittent sound in 30°F weather and i am only 145lbs. +10lbs w/gear i guess, and i had 25% battery. i thought that was pretty shitty. but i thought the cold weather was the main culprit. if i can reach 35 mile range in current temps, 29-31°F, with 35% battery left, then ill feel that the advertised specs are solid and ill be thrilled about my purchase.

and then im going to try and hold back from getting the mten, or the nikola, or the veteran :crying: because discipline and all.

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3 hours ago, Simply_Striking said:

What can I use to clean the motherboard, mines has a lot of dust all over it.

I use only a air compressor. 

3 hours ago, StealthPhoenix said:

@buell47(from before: im inclined to say "water" LOL)

@Simply_Strikingcompressed air, in a can or if you have an air compressor at home. and then follow up with a dip or a mild wipe with 99% isopropyl alcohol, then compressed air again. at least thats what i think.. could be wrong though, someone else can chime in as well.

:thumbup::roflmao:

 

Standard procedure for any wheel with excessive dust and dirt is to seal the wheel against dust.

With the MSP/RS it is the big gap on the trolley linkage and additionally with the RS the holes in the pedal hanger.

For those where the housing cover seal is not missing, I would always drill 4 water drain holes in the housing. I would even do this myself if the seal is not missing. At least who drives in the rain or uses water for cleaning. 

Edited by buell47
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Hi guys.

I'm working on my motor as mentioned by @StealthPhoenix and I can confirm there are small dents on the motor cover and they could very well be from the pedal hanger flexing slightly on harder impacts. Also, when a suspect motor cover (the one which seems to be resonating more on the knocking, e.g. the one I felt is the source of the sound) is unscrewed and loosened, it rotates fluidly on its bearing without any jerking or knocking from within.

I did hear a soft grinding sound from inside the motor and thought about having some kind of debris inside, but hunting it down with a stethoscope, I found a tiny little spring caught behind a hanger opposite to the one I was working on. Not sure if it's part of the wheel, it's not rusted, but I couldn't find any obvious place it could belong to. Attaching an image of it, any ideas?

Trying to find the sweet stop for the motor to on. Will let you know once I got it. :-)

Have a great day everyone!

IMG_0525.jpeg

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10 minutes ago, mike_bike_kite said:

Perhaps they were intending on releasing the RS as a suspension wheel? ;) 

I guess they did, LOL. But the smoke generator won! :-D

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(just leaving an update for the data analyst types haha: after resolving the knocking sound, i did see an upgrade to my battery life. i was able to ride 52 miles at 20-28 mph in 33°F weather, at around 145lb-150lb. with 29 psi tire pressure, and it was done in triplets. like 3 rest points (but no charging) each rest about 5 minutes. i had about 14-21% by the time i got home. at 21% i could not go 25 mph anymore, as the the battery would start to drop immediately down to 15-14%. so i went around 15 mph and it managed to "return" back to 18-20%. i did that for about the last 4 miles, and got home with enough juice left for perhaps...another 4 miles? maybe more?. i dont know if thats good or bad or average. but it is what it is. comparisons will provide result in this case)

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Check all the screws, I had some loose ones. Don't over tighten them but make sure they are not loose. My left pedal hanger had on less than finger tight and some of the case screws were not snug. I don't know if mine would have made creaking sounds though, I did a once over before riding it. 

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Did you check the set screws on your pedals? Mine were loose. 

If you check all the screws it should go away, but if it's a feeling amd not a sound of focus on the pedal screws first since they are easy. Next is go after the pedal hangers, also easy but more time consuming, and the fan on the control board side will block one of them but it sounds like this is a left side issue on your wheel.

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22 hours ago, Flying W said:

Did you check the set screws on your pedals? Mine were loose. 

If you check all the screws it should go away, but if it's a feeling amd not a sound of focus on the pedal screws first since they are easy. Next is go after the pedal hangers, also easy but more time consuming, and the fan on the control board side will block one of them but it sounds like this is a left side issue on your wheel.

Checked my pedals and the right one was super loose! Unfortunately the creaky feeling remains when turning left. Guess I'll have to take the padding off my wheel to open it up and make sure the screws are tight and wiring isn't hitting the fan or anything like that.. It'll be my first time opening up the wheel, so it seems like a daunting task.

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At least these wheels are very easy to open. There will be double sided tape holding the panel on the battery. Once all the screws are out just slide your hand under the panel about mid way up and keep a constant pressure. You will hear and feel the tape letting go. 

Also don't miss the the two screws behind the pedals, I think if I remember correctly there should be 13 screws per side. The pedals do need to come off too. 

It wasn't too long ago that wheels were held together by wood screws into plastic and a bunch of plastic clips. This made repeated opening a recipe for stripped screws and broken clips. :D

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8 hours ago, Flying W said:

At least these wheels are very easy to open. There will be double sided tape holding the panel on the battery. Once all the screws are out just slide your hand under the panel about mid way up and keep a constant pressure. You will hear and feel the tape letting go. 

Also don't miss the the two screws behind the pedals, I think if I remember correctly there should be 13 screws per side. The pedals do need to come off too. 

It wasn't too long ago that wheels were held together by wood screws into plastic and a bunch of plastic clips. This made repeated opening a recipe for stripped screws and broken clips. :D

Thanks for your help. Just confirming, opening the wheel up won't void the warranty or anything right? I live really close to Ewheels and have only had the wheel a couple months. Just making sure opening the wheel is the right move.

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1 hour ago, Bongaloid said:

Thanks for your help. Just confirming, opening the wheel up won't void the warranty or anything right? I live really close to Ewheels and have only had the wheel a couple months. Just making sure opening the wheel is the right move.

contact them and ask.

https://www.ewheels.com/returns-and-warranty/

i personally did open my wheel up, with the understanding that worst case scenario: the warranty did void.

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