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S18 Suspension Overhaul


Feynman

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I'm quite happy with the C connection design.  There are two bushings here, and internal and external.  They connect so the ID is continuous.  This joint rotates freely when tightened down completely; even with the ABS test bushings (I cracked the outer one as you can see, oops).   I'll add another post in a few min.  Hitting max file size for pics.

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Edited by Feynman
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I need to cut the thickness of the C spacer in half.  Here's everything assembled.  Much better than out of the box, even with these ABS test bushings.

 

https://youtu.be/kmeHqbFZN2o     This is without any lube on the rails, btw.

Edited by Feynman
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@Feynman...looking good bud.

According the latest update from ewheels, I should be getting my S18 in a week or two (if all goes well).  By then, hopefully you'll have everything you need to be up and riding, so we can hit the trails in our area.  I'm hoping I could ride my wheel several/many miles before breaking it down to make improvements.

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Regarding  custom bushes to replace bearings either phosphor bronze of delrin the material is pennies most engineer shops will have this scrap and cut off material kicking about the floor.  Walk in with your basic drawing on the back of a fag box or the item to be replaced, chuck £30.00 in their tea pot and collect in a week.  I have had many small components made up this way from various local engineer shops.

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1 minute ago, Finn Bjerke said:

If I need to disassemble the wheel to make it OK Im not buying it. Ill go for inmotion v11 then. Im not technical I dont have them skills  - Im willing to learn but disassemblying the whole wheel is not OK with me.  Feynman I want to thank you for the many contributions. 

Honestly, I'd want to get that lock washer off of the connection to the slider.  To do that; unfortunately; you'll have to disassemble the wheel.  Disassembly took me less than an hour using a hand screwdriver, but reassembly will probably take longer since I have to remember what screws go where.  It's definitely doable by an amateur (like me), so don't let it scare you if you otherwise like the wheel.

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7 minutes ago, yon said:

Regarding  custom bushes to replace bearings either phosphor bronze of delrin the material is pennies most engineer shops will have this scrap and cut off material kicking about the floor.  Walk in with your basic drawing on the back of a fag box or the item to be replaced, chuck £30.00 in their tea pot and collect in a week.  I have had many small components made up this way from various local engineer shops.

The material is cheap, but I've gotten 4 quotes for the machining - very very simple parts, mind you - and the lowest has been $300.

Edited by Feynman
fat fingered cost
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They are having a laff I used to work a lathe, 14 washers with shoulders or whatever will take and hour to make, once the machine is set up for one the rest take no time at all I could have made these in my lunch break.  $300 seems alot of cash for basic washers and an hours work if that.

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When mine arrives if no one else posts pictures of these new and improved bushes I will for all to see.  I reckon they must have had a hacked off rouge technician working the assembly line because no way would it get past the r&d stage with metal rubbing against metal and spring washer holding bearings in place.

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22 minutes ago, dsd317 said:

I apologize if the following has been mentioned before.

The pre-production model did not have an exterior washer.  So why did they add it in the production models.

1245996306_ScreenShot2020-09-05at8_43_10AM.thumb.png.1ad6e5ed5c0db1889b2cd938fce636b4.png

I figured as much.  So there's nothing holding the arms together at that connection except the friction of the press-fit bearings, but that's ok.  

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  1. it's a good point and you have made it well.  Taking a look on you tube and freezing the frame I can see many wheels with this oversize washer on the outside of the frame. All on post production models.  quality control must have been absent when these went through.  
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16 minutes ago, eve said:

@Feynman Are any of the springwasher in contact with the construction or its only the bearings?

There's a lock washer between a bearing and the gray sliders or it might have been the black aluminum top piece, can't remember

Edited by Feynman
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6 hours ago, Feynman said:

There's a lock washer between a bearing and the gray sliders or it might have been the black aluminum top piece, can't remember

I though i would remove the pedal block and remove the outside washer and lube everything. That would be my quickfix until ill buy a good shock then i would completly redo the linkage. 

Seems like ill be disassembling it day one when it comes. Otherwise the mainboard seat will get destroyed by the springwasher.

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7 hours ago, yon said:

good grief what have I let myself in for.  Kingsong please take note and get mine sorted before you send it otherwise it shall be returned the same day as "not fit for purpose"

Yup they should straight up, offer a hardware parts kit to resolve this, Also I am waiting to see what happens with the new batches that are being sent out before I put a down payment in.

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1 hour ago, Feynman said:

I think I've landed on the final design after 5 or 6 iterations.  The connections are completely tightened and there is almost no friction now.  That's without lubing the rails or any other joints, and these are the test ABS bushings.  Should be much better with the GF nylon bushings.  Once I get the filament, print/ream the bushings, get everything back together and test it for a dozen miles or so I'll post a final parts list and can offer kits if anyone is interested since I have lots of extra parts.

Thanks for doing all this work and sharing your results with everyone. Is GF nylon filament difficult to print? It looks like it requires a pretty high nozzle temperature. Do you know of any easy to print filaments that would work well?

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7 minutes ago, Mark Wilson said:

Thanks for doing all this work and sharing your results with everyone. Is GF nylon filament difficult to print? It looks like it requires a pretty high nozzle temperature. Do you know of any easy to print filaments that would work well?

In general, I think it's probably hard to print and would require some trial and error.  I cheat and have a printer where they've done all this work for you - I just refer to the material list and load the appropriate settings.

Regarding an easier to print material; I'm not sure.  I see that delrin (POM, or acetal are other names for it) is available in filament now.  I reached out to my printer company, but they haven't had good results with it, so I went with the glass fiber reinforce nylon.  I could, and might, also try carbon fiber reinforced nylon.  The downside to both gf and cf nylon is they're very expensive - ~ 4x the cost of PLA or ABS

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Just now, Feynman said:

In general, I think it's probably hard to print and would require some trial and error.  I cheat and have a printer where they've done all this work for you - I just refer to the material list and load the appropriate settings.

Gotcha. I have a Creality Cr-10 and, if I remember correctly, if you try printing with a nozzle temp over 250 C you can damage the PTFE filament guide tube.

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