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Dogleash used by kitesurfers might help us: The product could be better and you NEED to add extra fat rubberband at the end of the leash.  I won der why the EUC manufatoreres have not solved the killer curling problem before.  This flexi leash might help for safer riding, until the EUC have better self stoppers. (like slalomski have?) 

Dog Leash Oceanus


I dont like this solution  leash is too short  not thought thru  really.  This made me laff: 

 

 


 image.png.3516309eb4b3418d28c0115347678df2.png

Edited by Finn Bjerke
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I use a chainsaw leash (tool lanyard) attached to the back of my belt and the carry handle.  If I step off forwards it's slightly limiting, if I come off backwards it's actually quite uncomfortable but the wheel does not disappear off down the hill.

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The kitesurf retractable leash would probably explode even in a small crash, I destroyed several of them while kitesurfing and they really aren't made to restrain that much weight at speed. 

A fall protection lanyard with internal shock protection would probably work pretty well , something like this https://www.amazon.com/Guardian-Fall-Protection-11200-Internal/dp/B004A7XVS2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

If someone if the Bay area wants one I have the machines to make custom length internal shock leashes if locals want one , I think I only have dark blue webbing left though for those that must be color coordinated  

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1 minute ago, Willy510 said:

A fall protection lanyard with internal shock protection would probably work pretty well

I'd definitely agree with this however I had a problem finding something at the right length, the fall arrester lanyards seem to be too long and dangle dangerously close to the spinning wheel.  The loop in the tool lanyard/chainsaw leash also works as a convenient attachment point, wrapping cleanly around the handle of the EUC.

Based upon my experimentation I think you want something with a loop at one end (to go around the EUC) and a clip at the other end (to attach to a belt, I use a dog walking runner's belt) around 80-90cm long when constricted and as long as you can get it (up to about 2m) when stretched.

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2 minutes ago, StuartL said:

I'd definitely agree with this however I had a problem finding something at the right length, the fall arrester lanyards seem to be too long and dangle dangerously close to the spinning wheel.  The loop in the tool lanyard/chainsaw leash also works as a convenient attachment point, wrapping cleanly around the handle of the EUC.

Based upon my experimentation I think you want something with a loop at one end (to go around the EUC) and a clip at the other end (to attach to a belt, I use a dog walking runner's belt) around 80-90cm long when constricted and as long as you can get it (up to about 2m) when stretched.

Take the long lanyard and fold in half and then attach to the wheel handle with the folded end using a larks head hitch and clip one snap to the base loop of the other and snap that to your belt, it wont dangle then and you'll have a soft basket type mount to the wheels handle. 

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  • 4 months later...
7 hours ago, Therap EUC said:

The lanyards in the first link look way too long, I think you'll find (unless you're exceptionally tall) that these will dangle dangerously close to the wheel.  The lanyard in the second link is probably closer to the ideal length but if you're shorter (like me!) you'll probably want to find something shorter still.

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The one I bought is only 55cm end to end and has a 12cm coil but the coil section goes to 85cm when fully extended.

Theres no way it will ever dangle enough to get caught in the wheel.

This is the Ebay link:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Elastic-Coiled-Paddle-Leash-Kayak-Canoe-Lanyard-Safety-Fishing-Rod-Cord-Rope-/133521590929?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

And a pic:

112920209941.thumb.jpg.2046a83a27f1ea84e1a9fc9a27c8268b.jpg

 

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I personally think that any attachment / leash that cannot be quickly released to the EUC is more likely to result in paralysis and permanent insults, even in the event of trivial falls.

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On 12/29/2020 at 12:23 PM, DjPanJan said:

I personally think that any attachment / leash that cannot be quickly released to the EUC is more likely to result in paralysis and permanent insults, even in the event of trivial falls.

I have not found that my leash has had any dangerous effects.  I've had several falls/slips at low speeds and the leash has saved my EUC from rolling away down the hill at least two of those times.  While I do understand your concern I will continue to use the leash to not only preserve my investment but to stop it running away out of control and potentially risk others.

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@StuartL I am considering use of a breakaway tether for the same use you described.  I'm looking for one that has a breakaway threshold of a few pounds.  I ride a few steep single-track ridge trails that challenge my current skill level.  I've climbed that segment in the past, but the last time I took that course my MSP HT spun out in the loose powder on an incline, and down went the wheel along the side of the ridge into a valley.  In this kind of situation, my hope is a breakaway tether may slow the fall of the wheel on a drop and give me a second or two to stop it from falling completely off the trail and down a valley, but if there's too much force on the tether to breakaway, so as not to drag me down in case of a violent and/or steep drop of the wheel.  I don't know if I'm describing it well. In my scenario, I picture the ideal tether would look like the coiled tether posted by @Planemo with a breakaway threshold force of about 15 pounds and worn tethered on only the most technical segments of trail riding.  Thanks for the different perspectives. 

 

 

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Yeah, having the user choose the breakaway force would be quite handy. I suspect the weakest link in the tether I have is the plastic buckle, but its anyones guess as to what point it will break. Maybe you can buy buckles which are stress tested to break at a particular kg/lb. If so, you could remove the plastic buckle on the one I have and attach the 'tested' one in its place. As long as your stitching/attachment is sound I dont see why it wouldnt work.

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Sounds like an interesting 3D printing project?  Maybe 3D print some PETG carabiner-like clips and experiment until they break at the right tension?

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Here's one I've been meaning to make for a while. I don't know the exact force it needs to breakaway yet but it's above the static weight of my MSX. I'll get access to a proper force gauge next week sometime.  It is intended to be a breakaway connection that will take some of the kinetic energy out of a wheel that gets away from you and yet it can be put back together and used many times. 

IMG_20210109_141639367_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210109_141716098_HDR.jpg

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Assuming you used the entire length of that Velcro, it would need a huge amount of sheering force to pull that free. I would wager the plastic buckle would certainly fail first.

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3 minutes ago, Planemo said:

Assuming you used the entire length of that Velcro, it would need a huge amount of sheering force to pull that free. I would wager the plastic buckle would certainly fail first.

Nope , you lost that bet. Rock Lockster buckles are wicked strong in pull strength. Quick lateral pull on velcro decreases its shear strength.  

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Lateral pull? You mean pulling the centre piece, along it's length? And it's sandwiched between two other pieces of Velcro? Please do let us know at what force you manage to rip that centre section out :)

 

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I haven't done the real math for it but with a pull scale it takes about 25-35 kg of dynamic force to pull the center section out. 

Edited by Willy510
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