madhatt Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Mrelwood, i'm curios if you remember anything about the fuses on this board? I need to replace mine as they blew, but since they are no more I can't determine which 30a smd fuse to get, I'm comfortable with electronics and solder, just not too sure about which fuse to purchase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 1 hour ago, madhatt said: I need to replace mine as they blew @mrelwood might have answers for you, but... ... if they blew, there's likely something else wrong with the board. Did the wheel stop working during normal use? Or during some special circumstance? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatt Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said: @mrelwood might have answers for you, but... ... if they blew, there's likely something else wrong with the board. Did the wheel stop working during normal use? Or during some special circumstance? Well, I had just replaced the bearings in the motor and believe I did not fully seat the new bearings which I'm guessing made something short in the motor. When I plugged everything back in I did a test power on and as soon as I turned it on the motor jerked just a bit like a 20th of a turn as the wheels got into the upright position, it seemed to do this a bit harder than usual. Then, I heard what I can only describe as whaling sounds which seemed to come from the motor housing, even though the motor was not turning. Then a bit of smoke came from the circuit board, I hear the pop of the fuse go, and then unplugged the battery leads as fast as I could. I felt the controller board, and both caps were warm, but not swelled. Under the paper barrier under the caps I found the two blown fuses. So I took the damn thing apart again, and tested the 3 motor leads. I believe I pulled .08 ohms between each of the motor leads which from what I read is ok? I then took one panel off the motor and closely inspected the motor windings and saw nothing out of place. I also checked to ensure there was no continuity between any of the motor lads and the motor frame. So in the end I never did find any obvious (to me) issues with the motor. Kinda frustrates me because this was the recommendation from my vendor (for me to replace the bearings) and my wheel is less than 2 months old 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 (edited) 7 hours ago, madhatt said: Mrelwood, i'm curios if you remember anything about the fuses on this board? I need to replace mine as they blew, but since they are no more I can't determine which 30a smd fuse to get, I'm comfortable with electronics and solder, just not too sure about which fuse to purchase. I don’t know anything else about them, other than they are two white 30A fuses in parallel, at least on my unit. No idea if they’re fast or slow. Are you absolutely certain that you connected the motor cables in the right order? Edited March 27, 2021 by mrelwood 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben S Posted March 30, 2021 Share Posted March 30, 2021 For anyone else having a control board failure here are details of my recent incident with the control board. Background information (numbered for reference): I was going slightly down hill (1% grade) when the gyro cut out and I fell backwards, landing on my feet as the EUC rolled tumbled away from me. I thought I heard a sound like a piece of plastic had broken off but now I think it could have been a "pop" sound like an capacitor blowing. I had been riding for about an hour before the failure occurred. It was only 70°F that day and I had just taken a break for a few minutes before the failure. I am 6', 175 lbs. I've been riding EUCs since November. I bought this one used from a friend with 1,000 miles on it. I hadn't been going very fast since I was on this trail for the first time, traveling about 6-7 mph Here's a video of me riding about 20 minutes before failure. https://photos.app.goo.gl/tD1tsCwkJLqCYbwt7 You can see all the EUC World tour statistics at this link. I don't think there's anything crazy about it. https://euc.world/tour/596530384997212 The V11 was still turned on so I launched the InMotion app and ran a diagnostic test. It said something about the "CAN Bus". I clicked the "Upload Log" button in the app and let it finish. I don't know where that gets saved. I couldn't get the V11 to turn off until I held down the power button for 40 seconds. I left it alone for an hour and then I tried to turn it on but it will not turn on. I contacted the US retailer with this information and they think it is a problem with the control board and are sending me a new one (covered under warranty but otherwise would cost me $299). The part should arrive 7 days after reporting the incident. Fortunately I still have my V8F to ride in the meantime. A factor that could have lead to the failure?? I noticed that when moving (not riding) my V11 while it is turned on sometimes it would start vibrating erratically. It seemed random. Then I noticed it was repeatable when I could close the kickstand with my foot and give it a small kick to snap it in. I recorded a video of this https://photos.app.goo.gl/TGebxTFnKQp6fjF6A and sent it to the retailer, and their response was "Please know that it is normal behaviour for the wheel to create a little vibration or noise when turned on due to the motor maintaining its balance. It will stop when the lift switch button is pressed because this means that the motor has disengaged from the wheel." I shared the video on Facebook and had a few people state that it was loose axle bolts. Because the vendor didn't seem to think it was significant and the issue wasn't apparent when I was riding I didn't address it before riding the day of the failure. I now speculate that it could be that this problem could have been creating strain on the control board that wasn't perceptible when riding it. I really like the V11 and have more confidence in InMotion because of their conservative nature than that of their competitors. That being said I am disappointed to have a failure happen like this. This could have ended in a face plant if I had been going faster. I think that would have taken away my confidence and led to EUC PTSD. I plan to post photos of the new and old board and wonder if someone here will be able to analyze them. Ben 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 @Ben S, the vibration in your video is absolutely NOT normal! That is a first sign of an issue that MUST be remedied for the wheel to be safe to ride. Loose motor bolts is indeed the most probable cause. That said, I’m not sure how it could be related to the cut-off you had. There has been a very small number of failed V11 mainboards, but they have since updated the mainboard at least a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben S Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 To clarify, the retailer is sending me a new Driver Control Board, not a mainboard. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two. Which one has the gyroscopes on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) Good question! Bad answer: I’m not sure! I think the driver board is the larger one that drives the motor, and the smaller hosts the firmware. The gyroscope could be on either. But before you go through the hassle of replacing the board, please check the motor bolts first! They are known to cause exactly those symptoms, and they are also known to have been loose on later batch versions of the V11. Edited March 31, 2021 by mrelwood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben S Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Well my V11 won't even turn on now and I did hear a "pop" sound when it died. I will check the bolts before I replace the board but I'm pretty confident that something electrical needs to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 (edited) It’s a good idea to try to determine if the electronics died as a consequence of another problem. They usually don’t go pop at 6-7 mph unless the motor jams (stick rock mud obstruction in wheel well, loose bolt...) although since it dumped you backwards it doesn’t sound like a jammed wheel. Not saying electronics never just up and die for no reason, but it’s unusual after the infant mortality period and your wheel should be well past that. Edited March 31, 2021 by Tawpie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wise Rides Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Has anyone tried to figure out how to improve cooling of the control board and mother board? My gut feeling is this is a heat related issue and the reliability of the boards could be greatly improved with airflow. I’m thinking about adding a breather hole in the top casing with a vent cap (see below). That way control/mother board enclosure can “breath” and vent the hot air but not allow water and dust intrusion. This may be another “fix” for the design oversight in this area. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wise Rides Posted March 31, 2021 Share Posted March 31, 2021 Here is another example: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 On 3/31/2021 at 9:07 AM, Wise Rides said: My gut feeling is this is a heat related issue “breath” and vent the hot air No; those membrane- or diaphragm-type vents are used to allow pressure in a sealed enclosure to equalize with the outside air... but do not permit any substantial airflow, like would be needed for convective cooling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wise Rides Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Ah, good to know. Thank you for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Scotsman Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 On 8/20/2020 at 2:24 PM, mrelwood said: There are two small green LEDs on the board, one solid(ish), one blinking...When the board failed, it burned through the positive leg on both large electrolytics. Hi there. I've just signed up because I seem to have suffered the exact same failure on my V11., which has the exact same driver board as the one shown in your photos. I wasn't sure which of the boards was causing the problem, so I'm glad I found your post. I have a few questions I'd like to ask before tackling the repair : Does the new driver board come complete with the heatsink or is it just the bare circuit board? Assuming it's a bare board, should I replace the thermal pads, apply fresh thermal grease? I saw a video on youtube (see below) that said you need to have inmotion connect to the wheel remotely to activate the new board. Is that correct? Any other tips, or things to watch out for, you can share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. Scott. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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