Philip W Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 I have to agree. This kind of battery setup did cause strange problems while riding, like inaccurate battery level indicator and uneven battery power consumption. Well, but still, this is their decision. If this kind of configuration will damage the batteries or board, they wouldn't have done it, right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goonman Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 I sometimes carry some lipo batteries, inverter and charger for the wheel. Its heavy and a pain. I don't normally bother unless I'm heading deep into the unkown. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Виктор Гаранин Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 My option is suitable for those who are ready to ride with a backpack weighing 12-15 kg, the kit includes: Two 800 VA 84 V units (e.g. from the old Gotway MSuper or Monster), switch on in series, provide direct current in the operating range of 135-166 V; double voltmeter or other way to control battery discharge down to 67-68 V each; two standard Gotway charges (driving on the backpack belt), switched in parallel; charging wire "doubling" with extension and easy release in case of jumping off the wheel. Adapter can be made for any connector, the main thing is that the EUC wheel supports charging on the go. As a result, we get - 4-5 hours of charge on the move with dual charger (2.5 - 3 A) - I add about 40-45 km of mileage to 70 km from the wheel Monster. If there is a power socket on the way, you can either charge the wheel directly from 220 V or backpack batteries, for this there are a couple of adapters. Sometimes I drive a 5A extra charger and charge the wheel in the parking lot together with the batteries. Two hours of such charging give the total mileage of 160-180 km. Compared with the purchased bank, in which the built-in converter for 220 V, is obtained about three times better power in the calculation of kg extra weight. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Виктор Гаранин said: provide direct current in the operating range of 135-166 V to two standard Gotway chargers Wow, creative! Everyone else reading- please remember not to connect DC to your charger's AC input, until you've taken the time to understand how your exact model of charger works. If there's an isolation transformer at the input, you'll melt it. 160V is also electrocution hazard territory :/ Edited September 11, 2020 by RagingGrandpa 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip W Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 12 minutes ago, RagingGrandpa said: Everyone else reading- please remember not to connect DC to your charger's AC input I think he meant 2x84v = 168v then use a buck adapter to drive it down to 67v. After all he has been doing it successfully. Dangerous high voltage, but riding a unicycle itself is kinda risky, right? If it were up to me I would have just connected the two packs in parallel. 84v down to 67v should have higher efficiency than 168v to 67v. Also I can have higher current to charge those 84v batteries. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 18 minutes ago, Philip W said: If it were up to me I would have just connected the two packs in parallel. 84v down to 67v should have higher efficiency than 168v to 67v. Also I can have higher current to charge those 84v batteries. Efficiency and charge current depend (as good as) only on the used charger/dc-dc converter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said: Wow, creative! Everyone else reading- please remember not to connect DC to your charger's AC input, until you've taken the time to understand how your exact model of charger works. If there's an isolation transformer at the input, you'll melt it. 160V is also electrocution hazard territory :/ So true. I haven’t seen an isolation transformer used in light weight switching power supplies that look like laptop computer supplies. The inputs are normally full wave bridge rectifiers and high voltage smoothing capacitors to produce high voltage DC. This DC then gets switched at a high frequency and through a high frequency small transformer inductor to produce the desired voltage. If this is your charger, then DC on the input is fine because it just passes through 2 of the full wave rectifier diodes. Edited September 11, 2020 by Hal Farrenkopf isn’t fine to is fine 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
litewave Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 On 8/19/2020 at 12:59 AM, Azzias said: As a side note my mten3 is not my only experience with euc. I do have a modded ninebot c+ thats modded to 20mph that I use for training others (my first wheel) and a Mcm5 that I only use off-road or yak rustling as it has a bmx nobby Tire.. I am a new Ridder with only 3 months experience. video please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Виктор Гаранин Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 On 9/11/2020 at 9:21 PM, RagingGrandpa said: Everyone else reading- please remember not to connect DC to your charger's AC input, until you've taken the time to understand how your exact model of charger works. If there's an isolation transformer at the input, you'll melt it. 160V is also electrocution hazard territory :/ Absolutely right - you should check everything properly before making adapters and connecting batteries to chargers. If in doubt, it is better to have a specialist to help and check. Modern battery chargers have an operating range of 100-240 volts of AC voltage, but the circuit allows you to work from DC, too. Battery-to-chargers efficiency is 80%. The battery is charged in more than five hours and discharged in less than 4 hours. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneLeg Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 (edited) sorry wrong thread.... Edited September 15, 2020 by OneLeg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip W Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 Now here is an update about my little investigation of why my previous EUC is bad. Recently I purchased a battery charger/tester from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZSHFFHF Then I used it to test some 18650 batteries taken out of a bad power bank. Out of 4, 3 batteries are bad. They can only provide 20 to 50 mah power. However, after they are charged, they still show 4.12v of voltage. Even after the battery tester dropped their voltage below 2.6v, they still are measured at 4.0v individually. This is exactly the symptom my EUC displayed. The voltage was good after charge: 67.2v, but after just a short time riding, it started to drop rapidly. Once it reached 58.2v, the EUC was un-rideable. A little move will send the whole wheel down to the ground losing power. I was convinced it was EUC board's fault. Now after seeing those bad batteries' behavior, I think it was the battery pack. Now I am more interested in building an external battery pack which will allow me to freely replace the bad 18650 batteries. Here's a setup I really like. It's 17s, but I think it will fit my purpose. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000351397635.html I will get two or three 17s board and the BMS. They probably will give me 125wh power each. Though this cannot go long range, I love the fact that I will be in control of each battery cell. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Added a writeup on my DIY charge-and-ride backpack: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atdlzpae Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 (edited) @RagingGrandpa This is what I was using on my KS16S. A 7S 2kWh battery + step-up to 67V (3d printed) + a long wire. Everything fit in a big backpack, total weight about 20kg. 67V was connected directly to the internal battery of KS16S. It extended my range from 35km to 110km. If I wanted to extend the range of the MSX, I'd charge it through the charging plug. Both MSX and KS16S can be charged during riding. Why did I connect it directly to the battery? One of the batteries failed (so only 420Wh left...) and I had a group ride the next day so I had to improvise... PSA - don't ride KS16S with one battery. It will cut out on you. Edited October 18, 2020 by atdlzpae 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 On 10/18/2020 at 1:37 PM, atdlzpae said: 2kWh battery Everything fit in a big backpack, total weight about 20kg. Whoa, huge pack! Really 44lb?! Could you share details on the backpack you chose? Making a 15lb brick on my back feel comfortable is a bit of a puzzle... I can't imagine 40lb+ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I was contemplating getting this battery for my backpack, with this solar charger array. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atdlzpae Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 (edited) @The Dude What's your use case for the battery? What do you want to connect to it? Looking at capacity (150Wh), it may power your laptop for 5h or so... Or a unicycle for 5 km. What's your use case for solar panels? 40W is almost nothing, why not charge your phone from a unicycle or the car? The only use case I can think of is if you're doing multi-day hikes far away from civilization... Edited October 19, 2020 by atdlzpae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 (edited) 37 minutes ago, atdlzpae said: @The Dude What's your use case for the battery? What do you want to connect to it? Looking at capacity (150Wh), it may power your laptop for 5h or so... Or a unicycle for 5 km. What's your use case for solar panels? 40W is almost nothing, why not charge your phone from a unicycle or the car? The only use case I can think of is if you're doing multi-day hikes far away from civilization... Everything that I'm acquiring at this point is intended for potential use away from civilization. If that's what the kids are calling this heap. Edited October 19, 2020 by The Dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atdlzpae Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 @The Dude That's not specific enough. "potential use away from civilization" can mean a sailboat, a homestead, a survival situation, an RV, a yacht...Anyway, I don't think these particular items are good in any of those circumstances. Even for a survival situation "on foot" it will be cheaper and lighter to have a big USB power-bank. Some good YouTube channels: CheapRVliving, Will Prowse, juehgarcia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 13 minutes ago, atdlzpae said: @The Dude That's not specific enough. "potential use away from civilization" can mean a sailboat, a homestead, a survival situation, an RV, a yacht...Anyway, I don't think these particular items are good in any of those circumstances. Even for a survival situation "on foot" it will be cheaper and lighter to have a big USB power-bank. Some good YouTube channels: CheapRVliving, Will Prowse, juehgarcia. Sorry I didn't provide you you with ample specificity. Gracias for the recommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daley1 Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 On 10/19/2020 at 4:37 AM, atdlzpae said: @RagingGrandpa This is what I was using on my KS16S. A 7S 2kWh battery + step-up to 67V (3d printed) + a long wire. Everything fit in a big backpack, total weight about 20kg. 67V was connected directly to the internal battery of KS16S. It extended my range from 35km to 110km. If I wanted to extend the range of the MSX, I'd charge it through the charging plug. Both MSX and KS16S can be charged during riding. Why did I connect it directly to the battery? One of the batteries failed (so only 420Wh left...) and I had a group ride the next day so I had to improvise... PSA - don't ride KS16S with one battery. It will cut out on you. Love my ks 16 s and never had a cutout.I always rode it under the suggested 35kmh .Really solid,stable machine that just keeps going.Only bought a Sherman because of the range anxiety.Looked at add on batteries but not really feasible.Thats all gone now.Still use the 16 s as a skills, practice tricks machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atdlzpae Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) @RagingGrandpa The battery itself is 12kg, a 22cm cube. It fits into a normal 60-70L backpack. Weight is not a problem for a 120kg fatass like me - I sometimes carry way more groceries than that. ############################# @Daley1 You misread my sentence: PSA - don't ride KS16S with one battery. KS16S by default has 2 batteries, each 420Wh. If you have only one of them: 1) If you try to climb a 45° slope, you'll break a fuse, crash and will have to walk home. 2) The safe-speed tilt-back & alarm assumes that you have 2 batteries. So it can cut-off if you try to ride as fast as possible on 30% battery. Both of those happened because of my own stupidity (after all, I knew that one of the batteries was dead). But it doesn't change the fact that with one battery KS16S is unsafe. Solid and stable - it's advertised as 150kg wheel... IMO it should be advertised as a 100kg max. I destroyed mine after 1300km. The problems started at about 600km - pedals started to tilt, then started scraping the motor, then broke off completely. MSX is way more solid, a real 150kg wheel. I imagine Veteran is even sturdier... Edited October 20, 2020 by atdlzpae 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daley1 Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 My bad! Yep totally agree, if one battery stuffed I wouldn't have touched the wheel with a 10 foot pole. Mine still going strong after 3k 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hal Farrenkopf Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 On 10/18/2020 at 1:37 PM, atdlzpae said: @RagingGrandpa This is what I was using on my KS16S. A 7S 2kWh battery + step-up to 67V (3d printed) + a long wire. Everything fit in a big backpack, total weight about 20kg. 67V was connected directly to the internal battery of KS16S. It extended my range from 35km to 110km. If I wanted to extend the range of the MSX, I'd charge it through the charging plug. Both MSX and KS16S can be charged during riding. Why did I connect it directly to the battery? One of the batteries failed (so only 420Wh left...) and I had a group ride the next day so I had to improvise... PSA - don't ride KS16S with one battery. It will cut out on you. Wow, that looks like speaker wire. The jacket of that wire is not very strong - I know you said it was a rush for the next day ride but hope you replaced it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atdlzpae Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Hal Farrenkopf said: Wow, that looks like speaker wire. The jacket of that wire is not very strong - I know you said it was a rush for the next day ride but hope you replaced it. Yes, I replaced it with MSX which has a decent range by default. IDK, speaker wires never failed me... Except for that one time I tried to push constant 30A through one. Edited October 20, 2020 by atdlzpae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Doug Hnut Posted October 26, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted October 26, 2020 I've been riding with my custom made backpack battery for about 1000km. first few days, my shoulders would hurt from the 18lb bag. but i got used to it, the hip belt really helps a lot here. the wires dont really get in the way, and disconnect easily if i step away form the wheel I attached the 1554Wh battery in parallel to my 2200Wh MSX. performed a range test and got 180km before tilt back. im quite happy with the results. although if i had the money , i would just buy a sherman or monster pro for the needed range and a bit of weight off my shoulders. or wire the extra battery into either of those wheels for some insane range! a nice plus factor is riding at 70kph without beeps on flat road. voltage sag has been cut down quite a bit thanks to the extra battery. https://imgur.com/a/7gdMW1M some more details on the battery: 100.8v full charged 88.8v nominal 35Ah 1554Wh 120 Sanyo GA 18650 cells actually made from 2x 12s5p packs in series dual smart Bluetooth BMS, one for each pack dual purpose battery for my electric mountain board(wired in parallel) and EUC(wired in series) battery weight 14.5lb backpack weight 3.5lb 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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