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IS THERE ANY HOPE


Shabba
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What voltage are we talking about exactly? If the charger wonā€™t even charge, then yes, itā€™s probably done for. Either way the battery chemistry has been compromised and even if you would get a charge in without a fire, the range and lifetime of the pack would probably be prettyĀ bad.

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3 hours ago, Shabba said:

The voltageĀ on my monster battery pack is too low to charge with the included charger, is there any hope for the pack or is it basically trash? šŸ˜¬Ā Ā 

well the included charger is wanting to charge multiple packs that are connected to each other, so the bms could prevent that pack from getting anything if say the others reached max voltage before it, if for whatever reason it is lower than the others...Ā take out the battery and check the voltage of it and let us know.... btw im just assuming youre talking about one of the two or three battery packs in the monster since you used "pack" and youre not referring to all of the batteries not taking a charge.. if this is the case, and you disconnect and discover the problem battery, DO NOT reconnect it to any of the other packs, if it is still healthy then you can just bring it, and it alone up to a full charge, only once each pack measures the same voltage can you reconnect them to each other, and then you should put it on the charger once again after they have all been connected

this is a best case scenario, let us know firstly what exactly version of the monster you have, and what the voltage reading of the bad pack(s) is before doing anything, if that pack has a dead cell or multiple dead cells, or the entire pack has dropped to anything below ~2V per cell, its pretty much just toast, it should be replaced

Edited by Rywokast
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I have the 1st monster 2800wh, the batteries are out of it because I had to replace the shell, When I first took them out two of the packs were reading 69v but the third was aboutĀ 66Volts.Ā After havingĀ all three battery packs sit out for about a month or so the pack that was reading 66v went down to around 18v but the other two are still reading 69v. I have no idea why the sudden drop, I never had a prob while they were in my monster, my mileage remained constantĀ 

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4 minutes ago, Shabba said:

I have the 1st monster 2800wh, the batteries are out of it because I had to replace the shell, When I first took them out two of the packs were reading 69v but the third was aboutĀ 66Volts.Ā After havingĀ all three battery packs sit out for about a month or so the pack that was reading 66v went down to around 18v but the other two are still reading 69v. I have no idea why the sudden drop, I never had a prob while they were in my monster, my mileage remained constantĀ 

2400,, aah okay, so it seems there was just a minor problem with one of the packs not being balanced or perhaps one of the cells died not sure you would have had to fully charged it then taken them out to see... but at 18V now, unfortunately that pack is toast dont attempt to do anything with it... you can put in both of the other packs and have a 1600 wh monster, or purchase another packĀ https://www.ewheels.com/product/84v-800wh-battery-pack-msx-nikola-monster/Ā and put it in, but if you do measure the voltage of each first and only connect them once they all match... you can just plug in one pack at a time and charge it up to get it to whatever the level of the new pack is, then reconnect them all and charge as normal

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22 minutes ago, Shabba said:

Ok thanks, so I will be safe riding with just two packs instead of three?

just as safe as any other 1600 wh wheel,, yup no worries at all

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šŸ‘šŸæThanks I really appreciate it, I have one more question as far as matching the two good batteries to the same voltage before I attemp to connect them, would it be best to just charge them all the way to full Then connect them? Am still going to check the voltage before I connect but it seems like that would be the best route to go as far as getting them both to the same voltage

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as long as they're both still good, probably the easiest.. but I thought you said they were both at the same voltage now?

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Ā 

36 minutes ago, Shabba said:

would it be best to just charge them all the way to full Then connect them?
Ā 

Since both packs might not get up to the same voltage, I tend to just match the voltages by charging the lower pack to the same voltage. Takes less time in the workshop as well.

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1 hour ago, Rywokast said:

as long as they're both still good, probably the easiest.. but I thought you said they were both at the same voltage now?

One of them fluctuate between 69 and 70 and the other is A solid 69 and doesnā€™t change, I think that should be ok to connect but just to be safe I want to get them both at exactly the same voltage

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30 minutes ago, Shabba said:

One of them fluctuate between 69 and 70 and the other is A solid 69 and doesnā€™t change,

Although as both of the packs seem to be good, you could test this by charging both packs individually if they really reach full voltage.

30 minutes ago, Shabba said:

I think that should be ok to connect but just to be safe I want to get them both at exactly the same voltage

If they are both ok they should keep the same voltage after the full charge.

Each pack (20s3p) has an internal resistance of ~0.27 Ohm, both together 0.53 Ohm. So if there is a voltage difference of 0.5V a equalizing current of ~1A will flow. That's no problem for the connectors - one just should not hesistate!

Btw - what kind of voltmeter you have?

42 minutes ago, Shabba said:

fluctuate between 69 and 70 and the other is A solid 69 and doesnā€™t change

What's the accuracy? It seems to show only full volts?

But also 1 Volt difference should be ok for cennecting from what's reported here. The key is to qickly establish the connection.

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45 minutes ago, Chriull said:

Btw - what kind of voltmeter you have?

Am at work right now am not sure The exact brand but itā€™s a pretty decent one I got from Walmart, itā€™s also digital, works pretty goodĀ 

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