My Sherman Trials, Tribulations, and Triumphs

[Toshio Uemura]

15 minutes ago, Violinfun said:

I thought there was supposed to be a fuse for the batteries or is that only for systems from eWheels?

@Marty Backe  also told me about this and that the batteries might look different than in this video. I will tell you further details once I`v got them. My control board also looks different from the one in the video. It has the shielded motor wires of the later batches. So the batteries might well have fuses. Let’s wait and see. 😆 

[HippoPig]

1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said:

@Marty Backe  also told me about this and that the batteries might look different than in this video. I will tell you further details once I`v got them. My control board also looks different from the one in the video. It has the shielded motor wires of the later batches. So the batteries might well have fuses. Let’s wait and see. 😆 

Mine didn’t have the sheaths, but did have fuses.

 

Think I was first batch / very early second.

[Shield]

I came across this decal for sale on Etsy and somehow that silhouette looks oddly familiar!? 

 

[.....]

On 9/10/2020 at 9:51 AM, null said:

Hoping it is an easy solution!

The wheel powered on (display on) but all LCD bars on and wheel long pressing ok got the message « no con » it didn’t balance.

Mine did this as well. I opened it up (ewheels 1st batch) and promtly lost a screw in my soggy unmowed yard. Anyhow, I didnt see anythnig unhooked but i did notice a fuse on each side. I wound up plugging mine into the charger and after an hour, it powered up. So odd, as it was pretty full before that. Maybe the firmware recognizes when you plug it in the first time and unlocks? Maybe something else, I dunno. *Durr, Marty's vid explains this. Should mention it in the damn booklet we get tho! Marty needs paid for this shit.

Im not sure how the lcd panel s improved. I didnt see the original, but mine looks like a common sticker lcd that was already coming up on all the edges. Im not worried, but its definitely not some fancy bevel or waterproofing going on. I left the protective cover on (for now), but the screen is definitely lifting, as glue can only do so much. Again, no big worry. If I ever do ruin this screen from it getting caught on something or rained in, I'll just buy another, glue it down and PROPERLY seal all the edges.

I've only ridden the thing a couple miles, but so far I really like it. It has a nice heft to how it rides, but remains really easy to mount and stop. Not too bad of gyro effect either. I kind of like the humm of the dirt tire on pavement, reminds me of a dirtbike. Now, if I could just get any of these apps to work properly with it... I guess I need to watch your setup video Marty. Its a 20 min vid and been buffering for 15mins, so maybe I'll have success. All and all, I'm digging the wheel and am so looking forwards to riding the piss out of it. Im enjoying this beast at 15psi, I may run 20psi mostly. Im 130lbs and like a soft ride.

Edited September 19, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[fbhb]

4 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Maybe the firmware recognizes when you plug it in the first time and unlocks? Maybe something else, I dunno.

From what I have heard, plugging the charger in for the first time does indeed unlock the Sherman from it's "transport mode" I'm sure that has been confirmed here in the forums! 

Very glad to hear you are enjoying the New wheel, especially after All your dramas with the S18!

[Shield]

On 9/12/2020 at 7:42 PM, Shield said:

@Marty Backe Would you or anyone else know what size screws are used to hold the shell on?

If anyone is interested in getting stainless steel screws or replacing the Phillips head with Hex head screws the Sherman screws are as follows.

Shell Cover - M4x18mm Countersunk Scews (9 on each side, 18 total)

LCD Cover - M3x10mm Countersunk Screws (2 on each side, 4 total)

[.....]

29 minutes ago, Shield said:

If anyone is interested in getting stainless steel screws or replacing the Phillips head with Hex head screws the Sherman screws are as follows.

Shell Cover - M4x18mm Countersunk Scews (9 on each side, 18 total)

LCD Cover - M3x10mm Countersunk Screws (2 on each side, 4 total)

You the MAN! I can call fastenal and order these now, instead of it takinng 2/2hr trips. I of course lost one screw in the yard already. I was just musing about how it would be pretty nifty to toss stainless hex in this bad boy. Thanks for the info, saves me a lot of time and possible headache!

Edited September 19, 2020 by ShanesPlanet

[MrRobot]

WARNING!!! 

I HIGHLY suggest anyone who hasn't yet to double check all the scews and make sure they're tightened and especially the pedals.

My pedals looked like they were tightened all the way but they were just loctited and only screwed in halfway. I definitely was able to tighten all 4 of the pedal bolts significantly more than they were. I suggest you untighten the pedals a good amount to break the loctite and then retighten them all the way to be sure. 

Edited September 19, 2020 by MrRobot

[Ben Kim]

1 hour ago, MrRobot said:

WARNING!!! 

I HIGHLY suggest anyone who hasn't yet to double check all the scews and make sure they're tightened and especially the pedals.

My pedals looked like they were tightened all the way but they were just loctited and only screwed in halfway. I definitely was able to tighten all 4 of the pedal bolts significantly more than they were. I suggest you untighten the pedals a good amount to break the loctite and then retighten them all the way to be sure. 

You had pedal screws? My First batch sherman didn’t come with any. LOL i’m lucky i had a spare set from my Nikola pedal spares. 

No side pads either!

[Ben Kim]

On 8/29/2020 at 3:43 PM, eve said:

@Marty Backe Can you ask Jason/Veteran if the added low speed torque affects top speed performance?

confirmed by all the NYC riders, 2 mph lower lift speed, 64.x mph vs 66.8 max for me 

[Toshio Uemura]

On 9/11/2020 at 6:10 PM, Chriull said:

One should ensure that they have the same voltage before connecting them!

The less voltage difference, the less current is flowing.

With the ?two 24s5p packs and 48mOhm per cell? the internal resistance of each pack should be around 0.23Ohm. So 0.46 Ohm in total. With 1V difference this leads to a bit more than 2A.

So having less than 0.5V difference and no hesitation while connecting should be nice.

So, the batteries finally arrived (Chinese style!) an hour ago. By Chinese style I mean they were stacked upon each other in the carton with their sticky side facing each other and I had a really hard time to separate them from each other partly ripping apart the sticky tape.

I also bought myself a DMM as you advised. And I already practiced measuring 1.5 V batteries 🔋 with it.

Now, since the batteries look a little different then in the video I got and since I am such a baby 🍼 with electric ⚡️ stuff, I need some advice on how to proceed step by step.

- What to connect first?

- When and where exactly to measure voltage of the batteries? 
- Which Settings on the DMM? 
I would really appreciate the help. 😊 

 

[Chriull]

1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Which Settings on the DMM?

Is hard to see on your photo - but i'd guess it's right. The dial set on V (voltage measurement) with on line and three dots below the line (==DC - direct current). If there is one or two ~ that would mean AC (alternating current), which is not needed for battery voltage measurement.

And the wires are in the right jack/socket. (COM and the other for Voltage measurement)

For measuring battery voltage the wires ?look strange?

They seem to be secured for transport with red insulating tape.

C - seems to be the "bms communication plug" for the mainboard as seen in the installation instruction video from your vendor.

A - the main battery plug which goes to the mainboard, too.

B1 and B2 seem "wrong". Maybe they have to be connected with the fuses?

But there is nothing like this to be seen in your video - afair here was somewhere already written that no fuse is to be seen, as it should normally be?

[Chriull]

2 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

What to connect first?

 

19 minutes ago, Chriull said:

B1 and B2 .... Maybe they have to be connected with the fuses?

Seems so - looked at ecodrifts tear down at https://ecodrift.ru/2020/07/05/razbiraem-veteran-sherman-iz-pervoj-postavki-mnogo-udivitelnyh-otkrytij/

There is a first photo of the naked BMS with connector A and C, but no B1 and B2 - the red wire of the main battery plug is not cut:

Then his next photo shows the fuse:

Not everything is seen in detail ;), but it would make sense if this black box (fuse) is inserted in the red battery plug wire between your B1 and B2.

Edit: once B1 and B2 is connected by the fuse the battery voltage can be measured at A.

Edited September 19, 2020 by Chriull

[Toshio Uemura]

1 hour ago, Chriull said:

 

Seems so - looked at ecodrifts tear down at https://ecodrift.ru/2020/07/05/razbiraem-veteran-sherman-iz-pervoj-postavki-mnogo-udivitelnyh-otkrytij/

There is a first photo of the naked BMS with connector A and C, but no B1 and B2 - the red wire of the main battery plug is not cut:

Then his next photo shows the fuse:

Not everything is seen in detail ;), but it would make sense if this black box (fuse) is inserted in the red battery plug wire between your B1 and B2.

Edit: once B1 and B2 is connected by the fuse the battery voltage can be measured at A.

Thanks 🙏 so much for your help. Here is what I did so far:

- I removed the red taping from A and B2. On both twin battery packs. 
  The ends look like the ones in your photo above with the fuse box. However there was no fuse (middle piece) included in the carton. So I hope the two fuses are somewhere within the empty battery chambers of the wheel. If not, then there is no fuse and I have to get one (but what kind of?). So let’s hope it turns up when I open the wheel tomorrow.

- After removing the red insulation tape I set the DMM as you said (and with the select button to DC) and measured the voltage between A (-) and B2 (+). The DMM showed exactly 99 V for both battery sets. So it should be OK to connect them tomorrow. (If I find the fuse that connects B1 and B2). 
 

By the way, what is this fuse good for? Is it really necessary. Would the wheel shut off instantly and without warning if one of the two fuses would get blown?

[Chriull]

6 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

The DMM showed exactly 99 V for both battery sets. So it should be OK to connect them tomorrow. (If I find the fuse that connects B1 and B2). 

Yes. Perfect!

7 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

By the way, what is this fuse good for?

To protect the wiring and battery from short circuits.

7 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Is it really necessary. Would the wheel shut off instantly and without warning if one of the two fuses would get blown?

The wheel imho only shuts down if both fuses blow.

[Toshio Uemura]

1 minute ago, Chriull said:

The wheel imho only shuts down if both fuses blow.

That is good to know. And then the fuse would really offer some additional protection.

Do you - by chance - know, what kind of fuse this is and if I can order them on Amazon, just in case I is not fixed to the inside of the battery chamber?

Again, thanks a lot for your kind support. 

[Chriull]

1 minute ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Do you - by chance - know, what kind of fuse this is and if I can order them on Amazon, just in case I is not fixed to the inside of the battery chamber?

Sorry - no idea. I just know this one photo i linked above.

The housing and screws to fix the wire could be some custom thing from veteran?

I don't know which fuse is inside.

[Toshio Uemura]

13 minutes ago, Chriull said:

Sorry - no idea. I just know this one photo i linked above.

The housing and screws to fix the wire could be some custom thing from veteran?

I don't know which fuse is inside.

Thanks anyway. May be @Marty Backe knows, and probably (hopefully!) I will find the fuses somewhere tomorrow, when I open up the wheel. Today it is already too late. If I can’t find the fuse tomorrow, I will contact my Chinese seller (intelligent walking store) and ask for support. I am pissed 😤 anyway because of them or the shipper gluing the batteries 🔋 together, so they were almost inseparable. (Shake the head smiley) . 🤣 But the weather was nice today and hopefully tomorrow I can take my Sherman for a ride. 😊 

Edited September 19, 2020 by Toshio Uemura
Spelling mistake

[fbhb]

20 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

May be @Marty Backe knows, and probably (hopefully!) I will find the fuses somewhere tomorrow, when I open up the wheel.

Hopefully when you open up the wheel they are already fitted on each side of the battery compartment!  Failing that, if you have to try and source the fuses, I believe @Marty Backe Did Not fit the 2 fuses to the demo Sherman when they were supplied to him by Veteran, so he may be able to send them on to you if you are OK to wait for shipping from California?

Edited September 19, 2020 by fbhb

[Toshio Uemura]

2 hours ago, fbhb said:

Hopefully when you open up the wheel they are already fitted on each side of the battery compartment!  Failing that, if you have to try and source the fuses, I believe @Marty Backe Did Not fit the 2 fuses to the demo Sherman when they were supplied to him by Veteran, so he may be able to send them on to you if you are OK to wait for shipping from California?

Thanks a lot! I kind of expect these fuses with their original screws to be fitted on each side of the battery compartment! Since the seller or shipper has just ripped out the batteries for separate shipping. I don’t want to imagine they shipped the wheel and the batteries and forgot about the fuses. I checked the cartons and the parts included With the wheel and there were no fuses, but I haven’t removed the pedals yet to open up the side covers completely. Just opened one of the covers a bit and briefly looked to confirm that the batteries were missing. There is a good chance that they are fitted in there as you wrote above. Let’s hope for the best. We will find out tomorrow. But it is very kind to hear that @Marty Backe might be able to help me out. I keep you all updated. 🙏 

[null]

Édit: wrong thread

Edited September 19, 2020 by null

[Toshio Uemura]

20 hours ago, Chriull said:

 

Seems so - looked at ecodrifts tear down at https://ecodrift.ru/2020/07/05/razbiraem-veteran-sherman-iz-pervoj-postavki-mnogo-udivitelnyh-otkrytij/

There is a first photo of the naked BMS with connector A and C, but no B1 and B2 - the red wire of the main battery plug is not cut:

Then his next photo shows the fuse:

Not everything is seen in detail ;), but it would make sense if this black box (fuse) is inserted in the red battery plug wire between your B1 and B2.

Edit: once B1 and B2 is connected by the fuse the battery voltage can be measured at A.

 

18 hours ago, fbhb said:

Hopefully when you open up the wheel they are already fitted on each side of the battery compartment!  Failing that, if you have to try and source the fuses, I believe @Marty Backe Did Not fit the 2 fuses to the demo Sherman when they were supplied to him by Veteran, so he may be able to send them on to you if you are OK to wait for shipping from California?

Thanks a lot for all your support and advice. When I opened up the wheel today, I found the fuses already fitted on each side of the battery compartment. Just had to connect the cable ends an then proceed as shown in the video, I got from my Chinese seller. I measured the batteries with a DMM. They were both exactly 99 V. Then I connected the cables. No dramatic spark ⚡️ 

Then I connected the wheel to the charger as @Marty Backe explained in his video. And after disconnecting it it switched off. A short press on the button and it balanced beautifully. Hope I didn’t make any mistakes in routing the cables. 🥶 

So in short: Everything turned out well! Thanks again for all the help.

Here are some photos for reference:

 

 

[.....]

17 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

 

Thanks a lot for all your support and advice. When I opened up the wheel today, I found the fuses already fitted on each side of the battery compartment. Just had to connect the cable ends an then proceed as shown in the video, I got from my Chinese seller. I measured the batteries with a DMM. They were both exactly 99 V. Then I connected the cables. No dramatic spark ⚡️ 

Then I connected the wheel to the charger as @Marty Backe explained in his video. And after disconnecting it it switched off. A short press on the button and it balanced beautifully. Hope I didn’t make any mistakes in routing the cables. 🥶 

So in short: Everything turned out well! Thanks again for all the help.

Here are some photos for reference:

 

 

Now its a done deal. You too will unbelievably be riding around at 45mph and forget that at one time you probably swore that 30 was fast enough and 45 would be insanity. I just KNOW you are going to fall in love with that thing within the first 100'. Glad you got your batteries, and NOW you've even inspected the wheel properly.

[Planemo]

Good work, glad to see you got it sorted. I like how you used mastic on the fuse nuts too...attention to detail...simple things that one day might save your life.

[Toshio Uemura]

6 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Now its a done deal. You too will unbelievably be riding around at 45mph and forget that at one time you probably swore that 30 was fast enough and 45 would be insanity. I just KNOW you are going to fall in love with that thing within the first 100'. Glad you got your batteries, and NOW you've even inspected the wheel properly.

Just came back from my first ride. 😃 it really is a different generation of wheels. Coming from the Z10 it feels like the wheel has suspension. Even in the strong mode it is a very soft ride. The acceleration is insane and you loose the feeling for speed. It just accelerates on and on and when you change the alarm from 40 something to 60 something km/h it just keeps going and the peep just comes later. It did not go faster then 60 km/h. After all it was my first ride. 🤣 

Returning home I immediately got on my Z10 to see what feels different. And then I had a kind of déjà vu: it felt like riding the old Ninebot E+ after having ridden the MSuper V3s+ . The Z10 is a nice wheel, it just does not have enough range and speed. But it’s nice for doing tricks in the park and commuting in the city. So they are not really comparable. It’s nice to have both. But before the Z10 just felt a little too slow, now it feels almost unbearably slow. The Sherman definitely sets a whole new benchmark.

But ... I never thought 45 would be insanity. 😝 I remember 2 years ago I was contemplating aloud in the forum how long it will take until the unicycle will let us cross the 100 km/h line and someone lectured me about pedal friction and the wind that would blow you off the wheel and and and. May that be ... but I still believe it will be done by someone somewhen soon. 🙃

The Sherman points the way in this direction. Once all the snow is gone and ⛄️ snowboarders and skiers all discover the EUC as a satisfying alternative, there will be race tracks and EUC competitions and Olympic Games and with that comes speed and further development. And it will come fast. Mark my words.