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My Sherman Trials, Tribulations, and Triumphs


Marty Backe

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So they now have a speed version and a comfort version?. They should make a budget seat version as well. I like the seat they made, but I think it is too expensive for not trying to make it myself.

Or they could include some kind of suspension within the seat? Then it might be worth the steep price.

Edited by zege
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On 9/4/2020 at 10:33 PM, Shield said:

Fantastic looking seat which appears extremely confortable. Too rich for my blood, I'm just not that fancy. ^_^

I quite want one. Never liked riding seated because of the crappy seats.

 

It’s double the price of a Monster seat. Doesn’t seem all that far off the mark, considering what people pay for some of the power pads.

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On 8/28/2020 at 2:15 PM, Ben Kim said:

The good news is even after riding the wheel pretty hard last few hundred miles, motor wires still look no problem. No melting or any hint of damage (I did take precaution to separate motor wires from hall sensor wires). 

I’ll be sorting my wires this week / at the weekend as I now have the sheaths in hand.

 

Hoping to see the same when I remove the side.

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I just received my Sherman. I unboxed the wheel and it looks beautiful. But when I pressed the power button it does not start up. The display stays dark. I then connected it to the charger with the following result:

- charger lamp stays green

- display flashes every few seconds showing briefly a fully charged battery. 
- wheel does not switch on, keys and display do not react.

- since the seller previously wrote they tested the wheel before shipping it, I guess they have disconnected the battery wire or the motor for safe international transport. So I guess I should probably open the wheel, but which side? Any advice what to do first? 😢 

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That’s frustrating, maybe try opening the top lid or side panel (wherever the battery connection is) 

Normal transport mode it powers on, just not the motor.

Edited by null
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1 hour ago, null said:

maybe try opening the top lid or side panel (wherever the battery connection is) 

Thanks for the advice. I am afraid I have to do that, but I decided to wait another day and see what the seller has to say. If they or the shipping company disconnected it for transport reasons, they should tell me what to do, where and how to open it and what exactly needs to be done. I had a similar issue once, when I got my GW TESLA delivered from China. There were also just some cables disconnected and it was easily remedied. But nobody cared to tell me about it. I hope 🤞 it’s the same reason with the Sherman. 

 

1 hour ago, null said:

Normal transport mode it powers on, just not the motor.

What do you mean by „just not the motor“. Is the motor physically disconnected in transport mode?

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Hoping it is an easy solution!

The wheel powered on (display on) but all LCD bars on and wheel long pressing ok got the message « no con » it didn’t balance.

Edited by null
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4 hours ago, Toshio Uemura said:

I just received my Sherman. I unboxed the wheel and it looks beautiful. But when I pressed the power button it does not start up. The display stays dark. I then connected it to the charger with the following result:

- charger lamp stays green

- display flashes every few seconds showing briefly a fully charged battery. 
- wheel does not switch on, keys and display do not react.

- since the seller previously wrote they tested the wheel before shipping it, I guess they have disconnected the battery wire or the motor for safe international transport. So I guess I should probably open the wheel, but which side? Any advice what to do first? 😢 

See my response to your PM

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16 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

See my response to your PM

@Marty Backe Thank you very much for your quick help and instructions. Here is what I found:

- I followed your instructions and  found these two disconnected cables. See photo below.

- I then opened up the side where these cables lead to and found that there are no batteries underneath the shell. So I guess they are shipping the batteries separately. I suppose I have to put the batteries into the shell and connect them to these two cables once they arrive. But I have not yet received any information from the dealer. So I guess I have to wait for their answers and instructions. Thank you for your kind help.
 

 

28735E5D-3E9F-48DC-824E-B915A692759D.jpeg

07ED0F12-54D5-4BC9-9ECF-DFC5E0AA471B.jpeg

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Wow, batteries seperately and they didnt mention that tidbit? I guess the first clue was you can even lift the damn thing? Keep us updated, as I've never encountered such shipping practices. I could only imagine the fiasco Jason would have to mitigate, if this happened to us. Glad to see it came open easily. I dearly hope this is built in utility fashion and maintenance will be tolerable. Wouldnt you need to charge each pack individually, if they arrived as such? You know, mitigate the chances of an imbalance of magnitude that casued charging issue? I guess depends on how veteran appraoched the BMS.

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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1 hour ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Wow, batteries seperately and they didnt mention that tidbit? I guess the first clue was you can even lift the damn thing? Keep us updated, as I've never encountered such shipping practices. I could only imagine the fiasco Jason would have to mitigate, if this happened to us. Glad to see it came open easily. I dearly hope this is built in utility fashion and maintenance will be tolerable. Wouldnt you need to charge each pack individually, if they arrived as such? You know, mitigate the chances of an imbalance of magnitude that casued charging issue? I guess depends on how veteran appraoched the BMS.

I really have no idea, what this is all about with the missing batteries, and the Chinese seller (I wrote them yesterday morning) has not yet commented on the missing batteries. 
Would there be any problem if they came separately? Is it not possible to just put them in, connect them and then charge them in case they are not charged? It says they have not even read my messages yet. So I guess I have to wait another day or two over the weekend probably. 😭 

i was wondering, when I lifted the wheel out of the carton, that is was rather “light” (about the same weight then my Z-10, so I was wondering why everybody is complaining about the weight. Now I know, why it was that lightweight. 😆 

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26 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

Would there be any problem if they came separately? Is it not possible to just put them in, connect them and then charge them in case they are not charged?

One should ensure that they have the same voltage before connecting them!

The less voltage difference, the less current is flowing.

With the ?two 24s5p packs and 48mOhm per cell? the internal resistance of each pack should be around 0.23Ohm. So 0.46 Ohm in total. With 1V difference this leads to a bit more than 2A.

So having less than 0.5V difference and no hesitation while connecting should be nice.

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1 minute ago, Chriull said:

One should ensure that they have the same voltage before connecting them!

The less voltage difference, the less current is flowing.

With the ?two 24s5p packs and 48mOhm per cell? the internal resistance of each pack should be around 0.23Ohm. So 0.46 Ohm in total. With 1V difference this leads to a bit more than 2A.

So having less than 0.5V difference and no hesitation while connecting should be nice.

😱 OMG I have no means of measuring that. Supposing the batteries arrive at all. 😂 

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1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said:

So having less than 0.5V difference and no hesitation while connecting should be nice.

And if there would be more than 0.5 V difference. What do I have to do then? I guess, I could get this DMM somewhere may be even rent one somewhere, but I might not know where and what to measure for exactly (I am such a baby with electric things 🍼) and what do you mean by no hesitation while connecting? 😕???

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Could you not connect one battery in the wheel and see what the voltage is on the display or an app, disconnect it then connect the other.  Then connect only the lowest reading one and charge it to the higher reading battery level. Your probably have to check it with the charger disconnected though or you will probably see a higher reading.  Don't know the configuration but see what the others say.  Or use a volt meter to do the measurements.

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56 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

And if there would be more than 0.5 V difference. What do I have to do then? 

Charge the lower one until the difference is less. :) If you charged too much, charge the other one until the difference gets less.

At least once both are full everything is fine ;)

56 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

guess, I could get this DMM somewhere may be even rent one somewhere, but I might not know where and what to measure for exactly (I am such a baby with electric things 🍼)

You'd need to measure the output voltage. So set dials on the dmm to VOLTAGE and DC (sometimes show as a line with three dots below).

The output voltage of the battery is on the connector which goes to the motherboard.

56 minutes ago, Toshio Uemura said:

and what do you mean by no hesitation while connecting? 😕???

Like with connecting the batteries to the motherboard. If one connects them one will get some arcing. The "faster" one connects the less arcing will be. If one fiddles around and let the connectors in a "just touching" position the arcing goes on forever - or the connectors are "molten".

So no unnecessary hesitation...

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Yeah, you want to be jamming those batt plugs together as fast as humanly possible! Disregarding batt voltage differences, even charging the caps on the board will cause a pretty large spark.

My 2 rebuilt packs were about .2v different and hardly anynsparks at all when connecting them together. I wouldnt want more than 0.5v though as Chriull says.

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