SereneCry Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Greetings. Planning to get a bunch of these if I can get so advice first. Anyone know what they are and if they are useful for 350-800W EUC? They are halfprice now so they are alot cheaper than building a pack from scratch. Theres a sale on some 18V batterypacks with the brand Hyundai. Says on the store infopage that they contain Samsung 1500mah cells but no idea what they could be. Made to work with various gardening tools and drills/impactdrills. Saw one of the tools rated 500W. If my guesstimate is correct there is a chance they are 30A cont. Discharge 18650! That would be great for replacement/rangeextenders. Batteries meant for chainsaws and such so... Here is a link to the actual store: https://www.europris.no/p-batteri-18v-hyundai-litium-165912 And this was the closest I could find for detailed info (though not much). Stated there that the currentdraw is 0.4A. Though that could be that particular drill and not what the batteries are made to handle: https://thepowersite.co.uk/hyundai-hy2175-18v-li-ion-cordless-drill-driver-includes-89-drill-bit-accessories-carry-case Any help appreciated =) Edited June 3, 2020 by SereneCry Added a pic from the store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, SereneCry said: Greetings. Planning to get a bunch of these if I can get so advice first. Anyone know what they are and if they are useful for 350-800W EUC? They are halfprice now so they are alot cheaper than building a pack from scratch. Theres a sale on some 18V batterypacks with the brand Hyundai. Says on the store infopage that they contain Samsung 1500mah cells but no idea what they could be. Made to work with various gardening tools and drills/impactdrills. Saw one of the tools rated 500W. If my guesstimate is correct there is a chance they are 30A cont. Discharge 18650! That would be great for replacement/rangeextenders. Batteries meant for chainsaws and such so... Here is a link to the actual store: https://www.europris.no/p-batteri-18v-hyundai-litium-165912 And this was the closest I could find for detailed info (though not much). Stated there that the currentdraw is 0.4A. Though that could be that particular drill and not what the batteries are made to handle: https://thepowersite.co.uk/hyundai-hy2175-18v-li-ion-cordless-drill-driver-includes-89-drill-bit-accessories-carry-case Any help appreciated =) Hoooo boy, that's iffy. The super-high-drain cells used for handheld power tools are great if you need huge surges of current on a regular basis, but not so much on the overall capacity. Also, be careful about using bargain batteries for something that you ride... Cynicism aside, if you have the itch, the know-how and the opportunity, then I'd say it could be a fun project! Although it would be INVOLVED, and there is no way you can just rig some of these up in series and use them to replace your average EUC battery. You'd have to disassemble the Hyundai packs, harvest all of the cells, identify them, verify they're all in good health, and then build a new pack out of them from the ground up (including using a proper BMS!)... It's not a simple job! It'll take a lot of skill, steady hands, and knowledge to do it correctly and safely... That all said, as an avid DIYer myself, I must admit I am intrigued... honestly, if you're curious, I'd buy one of the Hyundai packs and disassemble it first to see what it's like and identify the actual cells. Then we can have a more informed debate on whether or not this endeavor is worth the trouble (and money!). Edited June 3, 2020 by Arbolest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SereneCry Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Sounds good I will get one of those in an hour and post pics if the insides. Hyundai and Samsung are quality brands but those packs are atleast one year old (shelf in the store). Could I just take the packs apart, balance the cells and put them back together to use in their original form? With zenerdiodes to avoid reversecurrent ofcourse. Afaik these powertoolbatteries have their own BMS. I like the shorter duration so I can do hillclimbs with a heavy backpack and a case of beer EDIT: doublecharged on googleplay so couldnt get the batteries immediatly :s Would they actually give more reliable performance on highcurrent climbs than SonyVTC5? If they are the 30A contdrain in the Hyundai Edited June 3, 2020 by SereneCry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SereneCry Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SereneCry Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Allright this looks promising indeed. Solid construction. I will reuse the entire thing =) 25A contdischarge. Max 60 degrees celsius dischargetemp (heatsensor on the BMS). Even a button to check the chargelevel/powerstate I see why you said I needed new BMS now, but I think I can mod the onboard BMS to communicate with eachother. Read and write pins present I like the idea of a modular powersupply. Only 2 problems with this. #1: it's from 2015! Might be DoA. #2: It's not a balancing BMS. Need another layer to avoid thermal cutouts and short life. Building this pack this well and not implementing balancing is mean :p I think I see mountpoints for balancing on here! Board from more expensive brand simplified and made to kill itself. What now? First charge and discharge a few times? =) Edited June 3, 2020 by SereneCry Added specs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SereneCry Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Looks like DoA... The pack was at 1.6V. Trying a charge with 6V, 200mA now and its going up. Is it right that these cells are too far gone to spend money and time on? Specsheet says discharge end at 2.5V. That handy "voltagelvl" switch looks like another suicidedevice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 I mean, yeah, I suppose a couple charge-discharge cycles would be one of the first steps in verifying the health of the cells. You've already identified them, so now you have to make sure that your "new" 2015 () batteries are still in good condition. Once you are sure the cells are good, if you actually intend to figure out how to get the BMSes talking to each other then that would be the next step. That said, I'm still not entirely sure how linking 3-4(?) of those together in series to attain the nominal voltage for an EUC battery pack is going to go. In the best case it might work in a pinch, but just remember that each of your mini packs will be like links in a chain. If ANY of them go out for any reason (cell failure, BMS fault, etc...) the whole thing will cut off on you. Also, resetting a faulted BMS board that you've wrapped up into a compound battery pack could be an interesting ordeal... I know I probably sounded like I was warning you away from building your own full-sized pack earlier, but if you have a BMS designed for the wheel you intend to use this thing with then personally I would just hook up your new cells to something you know will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, SereneCry said: Looks like DoA... The pack was at 1.6V. Trying a charge with 6V, 200mA now and its going up. Is it right that these cells are too far gone to spend money and time on? Specsheet says discharge end at 2.5V. That handy "voltagelvl" switch looks like another suicidedevice! Dang! That bites... hmmmm... you might be right about the voltage level switch, but whatever it was, it sounds like something was certainly active on the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 44 minutes ago, SereneCry said: Looks like DoA... The pack was at 1.6V. Trying a charge with 6V, 200mA now and its going up. Could be some low voltage protection kicked in and by this output voltage measured is false? (Voltage divider between the turned off mosfet and your multimeter) Did you measure directly the single cell voltages? Any cell staying for more than a week below 2V should be considered dead and not beeing reused again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 (edited) i preffer saying anycell that go below 0v is bad. 0v the electrorepulsion is minimal, witch can do no damage (but going from 3v to 0v, create lots of trash inside batteries) lots of CO2 too, witch presure rise insice canister, and the shortcircuits can occur due to internal cell sorts more reading with NASA 10S 9S pack test ... 4,6v => gas realse, ect... 0v, no big damage, -0.5v no big damage, -2,15v (irreversible damage, internal discharge apear if recharged=> hot cell, => explosion ?) Edited June 7, 2020 by Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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