Extra buzzer/laser Diagram for any Gotway

[Sebrios]

hey guys, many have asked me how I moded my wheel to have actual useful buzzers.

well, I added 4 extra ones  

Here, im sharing with you the SUPER SIMPLE and CHEAP (Like USD8) way to do it.

(The diagram shows only 2 buzzers, but keep in mind you can add up to 5 items (I'd rather only add 4 thou) you can choose buzzers, or a laser pointer like the mss, a mix of those... makes no difference.)

the sound coming from my wheel went from 54db to 74db standing on it, and having the phone to measure at my heads height

 

ohh... forgot to say: where it says From Original buzzer, You can leave the stock one!... so total is 4(or5)+1. you just cut the wire, and get the signal from there

also, attached a pic. of the actual circuit so you can have an idea how simple it is.

components list:

• 1-4 buzzers/pointer
• 1 Diode 1N4001
• 1 transistor: 2N2222A (or without the A... its the same)
• 1 breadboard
• 1 9V Battery and holder
• 1 resistor: 4.7K Ohm
• 1 Resistor 330 Ohm
• Optional: 1 dip switch to activate/deactivate each component

 

let me know if you have any questions:

 

Edited May 24, 2020 by Sebrios

[Planemo]

So you're powering an extra buzzer from a 9v battery? The original buzzer uses a higher 12v feed from the board does it not?

I have been looking into a 100v buzzer, powered by the main battery and switched via the stock feed and mosfets.

Good to hear you got a dB increase though.

For the moment I am running the stock buzzer on top of the wheel which is a lot better and I have heard it up until now (even with a non-airy ff helmet) but I would still like it louder.

[Boogieman]

I moved the buzzer on my gw tesla 1.2 from batter pack compartment towards the front "air inlet holes" as in image, since i will use it as a horn (front facing homes) with EUC world and my Samsung watch + i am pretty sure i will hear it a tiny bit better.

BUT....Optimally I would like one more on other side of chassis + 1 per battery compartment as there are allready pre drilled holes.

I was thinking 2in series on each side.

Then each side in parallell.

That would keep the voltake level correct and just increase the amps from the main board and....COME ON a buzzer cant barely draw amps that would burn anything unless those Chinese guys seriously under dimensioned EVERYTHING :-)

[Sebrios]

The output current of the boards buzzer plug is very limited. Its not strong enough to turn 2 buzzers on.

I believe its like 40mA output.

That's why you need a circuit like this.

You can use the usb output instead of the 9V battery. But when I did the mod, I didn't have voltimeter, nor extra cable to divide the usb cable wire.

[Sebrios]

attached the list of components ready to buy at jameco site (the only I know in the us) im sure you can get everything cheaper... but if you want ease, this is the way

cart.csv

[Delmeekc]

I did this on my MCM5 and my MSuperX and don't need anything else as it's very loud. I can hear the MCM5 when it goes off behind me when I'm in the MSuperX.

 

[Planemo]

1 hour ago, Delmeekc said:

I did this on my MCM5 and my MSuperX and don't need anything else as it's very loud. I can hear the MCM5 when it goes off behind me when I'm in the MSuperX.

 

Cant see the pics on that link, is it possible to host them elsewhere? Thanks

[Planemo]

14 hours ago, Sebrios said:

The output current of the boards buzzer plug is very limited. Its not strong enough to turn 2 buzzers on.

I believe its like 40mA output.

That's why you need a circuit like this.

You can use the usb output instead of the 9V battery. But when I did the mod, I didn't have voltimeter, nor extra cable to divide the usb cable wire.

Yeah the stock buzzer is around 20mA. I wouldnt want to draw much more than that for fear of blowing the board. So we have to use an external power source and given theres a bloody big one (the main batteries) nearby it was my reckoning that utilising it was the best move.

I did receive my 100v buzzer and drove it straight off the battery but to my dismay it wasnt much louder than the stock one so its back to the drawing board. The board outputs around 12v to the buzzer so I dont see much point in running a lower (9v) voltage. The easy (and most hidden) solution is to run a 12v car/motorcycle horn within the wheel, powered by a step down buck from 100>12v and switched by the stock feed using a relay or mosfet. This would be more than loud enough, but a bit of a pain on startup/shutdown unless also rigging in a delay like the guys have done with the Nikola. I need to do some more top speed testing with my current solution (stock buzzer atop the wheel) before I can definately say its not loud enough, as going to the next step is obviously a fair bit of work.

[Delmeekc]

Looks like they have gone as I've removed them from my Google drive and downloaded them.  Which photo did you want, I'll try and dig it out when on the pc next.  

[Delmeekc]

See if the below works, if not will have to wait.

MCM5 one completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qs817Tku7U4LzwXb9

MSuperX one completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rAiaxLpoX5y5i83AA

[Planemo]

On 5/24/2020 at 10:30 AM, Delmeekc said:

See if the below works, if not will have to wait.

MCM5 one completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qs817Tku7U4LzwXb9

MSuperX one completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rAiaxLpoX5y5i83AA

Ah, got you. Yes, you need to keep those buzzer lower slots clear.

This is my temporary setup, I am very reluctant to drill any holes in the case/side panels until I am 100% happy. Its far better here but the wire is causing havoc with my ocd. At least I managed to get a black one off the bay. And its also only double sided taped at the mo which I know isnt ideal as these buzzers do like a solid mount. But to do that I gotta drill holes....aargh!

If I do keep it here, I also need to find a rubber cap I can plop over it if I am caught in the rain (highly unlikely).

Edit: Pic removed - having a cull of my uploads to retrieve space.

 

Edited March 4, 2022 by Planemo

[Delmeekc]

I got some caps from Amazon and trimmed them down. Nice snug fit for when it rains.  

With no pressure on the rear isn't the buzzer pretty mute?

[Planemo]

38 minutes ago, Delmeekc said:

With no pressure on the rear isn't the buzzer pretty mute?

Well all I can say is its a lot better than the stock position! To be 100% sure whether it makes much difference whether bolted or not I would need to buy a dB meter and try it both taped and bolted. I'm not convinced there is a massive difference, and far less than the direction issue which can be massively dampened by just being a few degrees off line of sight.

I even thought about sending the feed to a bluetooth transmitter and having a small beeper in my helmet but then my life is at risk from a somewhat fallible bluetooth connection!

[Delmeekc]

The standard buzzer is massively quieter without the rear mount, measured with a proper dB meter.

[Planemo]

Did you check dB with the buzzer stuck down with thin (1mm) double sided tape onto the case or with the buzzer in 'free air'?

There really doesnt seem much in it to me, but I grant you there is a massive difference if the buzzer isnt mounted to anything.

[Delmeekc]

Only tried with plastic pressurised on the back, even then if it wasn't tight enough it wasn't loud.  Your buzzer looks different from mine so maybe that's why, or have you cut the mounts off.  As long as you can hear it loud at 30mph it doesn't matter.

Edited May 24, 2020 by Delmeekc
Changed a word

[Planemo]

Its a buzzer I got off the bay, different part number (SFM27W as opposed to original HYT3015A) but I have gone through loads of buzzers and the SFM is the only one that sounds identical to original. Yes I did cut the legs off it to get it a bit neater. Plus it was black. I do have another if I decide to bolt one on somewhere though. I couldnt find a black HYT anywhere, in fact I wouldnt be surprised if it has been replaced by the SFM. I have looked through more buzzer spec sheets than I can remember but never managed to confirm it. Frustratingly, there are various versions of SFM, and different suffixes mean different things such as intermittant etc. Thats why I have ended up with so many buzzers lol.

I need to do more testing in general, and also like you say try different mounting options to see how different it is. Do you have a pic of the back side of how yours is mounted? I appreciate that you must have shaved down the legs to mount it far enough out to clear the slots.

Yes, how I have mine done is plenty loud enough at 30, its at 40 where it still lacks a little.

[Delmeekc]

Pushed right in the slots just clear the panel on both MCM5 and the MSuperX. I used a bit of abs about 3mm the same shape as the rear and a thin plastic disc about 0.5mm cut round to fit inside the rear circle. Bolted all the way through using RC car bolts and nyloc nuts. On the MSuperX I shaved off the tiny upstand to let it go through a little further.  Never been 40, what are you riding?

[Boogieman]

On 5/23/2020 at 8:18 PM, Sebrios said:

The output current of the boards buzzer plug is very limited. Its not strong enough to turn 2 buzzers on.

I believe its like 40mA output.

That's why you need a circuit like this.

You can use the usb output instead of the 9V battery. But when I did the mod, I didn't have voltimeter, nor extra cable to divide the usb cable wire.

Battery is not an option for me. Battery runs out...40...45...55....crash.. No beep

But USB is only 5V... Wouldn't it be very quiet?

I read further down they are specced for 12V... Would be nice to find a 12V power on the main board

Also, to be really safe. Ideally i would like one buzzer to be connected like standard and add on your nice board (enough power?) If home made board fail at least std buzzer works (unless something shorts on the board of course)

Edited June 5, 2020 by Boogieman

[Planemo]

On 5/24/2020 at 11:53 PM, Delmeekc said:

Never been 40, what are you riding?

MSX 100v.

Well, I bit the bullet, drilled the shell at the top, fitted the SFM buzzer using nice countersunk black bolts and......its far less louder than when I had it stuck on! Aargh! The only reason I can think of is that the side holes are slightly still covered by the shell. I cant take any more off the upstands as they are as thin as I would like as it is. The shell is quite a bit thicker at the location than the side panels. The only way it would work is to remove the upstands completely and affix via a disc at the rear like I did with the stock buzzer in the sidepanel (and also like you did in your top shell I believe). I am not going to open up the case again and faff around re-mounting the SFM in case the buzzer has a problem/isnt quite the same as stock, and as I have now found out I can buy stock buzzers from Gotway I am going to order some, wait until they turn up then use one for the top, using the rear disc mount method. So for the moment I have gone back to my side panel mounted stock buzzer (affixed with rear disc/side holes clear of panel) which is the loudest solution I have come up with to date.

All fun and games lol

[Boogieman]

2 hours ago, Planemo said:

MSX 100v.

Well, I bit the bullet, drilled the shell at the top, fitted the SFM buzzer using nice countersunk black bolts and......its far less louder than when I had it stuck on! Aargh! The only reason I can think of is that the side holes are slightly still covered by the shell.

I got a tip from a guy that the backside of the buzzer must be mounted to a rigid point. Adding a thick backplate to mount it on, that you screw into the chassis should do the trick.

Make a same sized plate in thicker plastic. Glue (hard glue) the buzzer to the plate.

mount plate with standsoffs in plastic shell (no metal inside as if it gets loose and falls onto control board in a badly laquered spot, no beeper in the world can save you). There are plastic screws available for motor bikes (saving covers from cracking at fall). I am thinking this would be ideal inside chassis

Edited June 6, 2020 by Boogieman

[Planemo]

1 hour ago, Boogieman said:

I got a tip from a guy that the backside of the buzzer must be mounted to a rigid point. Adding a thick backplate to mount it on, that you screw into the chassis should do the trick.

Yeah I'm gonna have to make another backplate for the top shell location like I did for my current side panel mount. I thought what I had done with the SFM at the top was enough, given the 2 standoffs are bolted real secure and firm but like you say maybe the actual rear of the buzzer needs covering rather than just relying on the standoffs.

[Sebrios]

On 6/5/2020 at 6:01 PM, Boogieman said:

Battery is not an option for me. Battery runs out...40...45...55....crash.. No beep

But USB is only 5V... Wouldn't it be very quiet?

 

Today it's been about a month or 2 of almost everyday ride, and lots of beeping... decided to open up the wheel again to check the battery! Still solid 9V there

An average 9V battery has 300Wh/h ... if you use 4 buzzers @ 30mA each, you have 10 hours of CONSTANT beeping. thats ALOTTT considering every second you hear the beeps, it only takes 0.2secs of actual beeping.. ... (10*60)/0.2secs = 3.000 beeps so changing the battery every...6months or so, should be more than enough

 

to tell you the truth, I was concerned about this issue aswell, so my plan today, was to use the USB.. but after noting how it has worked, I decided just to leave it as is... and works like a charm!

 

you should try it,.. worse case scenario, you will remain with stock beep, as its not affected by this design... or use a 6pack AA batteries, that will last for....ever! lol... each one is rated I believe 2.300mA*6 ....

[Jean eRide.ie Community]

On 5/24/2020 at 2:29 PM, Planemo said:

Ah, got you. Yes, you need to keep those buzzer lower slots clear.

This is my temporary setup, I am very reluctant to drill any holes in the case/side panels until I am 100% happy. Its far better here but the wire is causing havoc with my ocd. At least I managed to get a black one off the bay. And its also only double sided taped at the mo which I know isnt ideal as these buzzers do like a solid mount. But to do that I gotta drill holes....aargh!

If I do keep it here, I also need to find a rubber cap I can plop over it if I am caught in the rain (highly unlikely).

Such a good idea. 

I always noticed how loud the buzzer is when the side panel is off!

I may do this if I ever need to. 

And yes, the rain cover for it, I'd say even some tape over it will do and won't reduce the noise much... 

[Delmeekc]

8 hours ago, Jean Dublin said:

Such a good idea. 

I always noticed how loud the buzzer is when the side panel is off!

I may do this if I ever need to. 

And yes, the rain cover for it, I'd say even some tape over it will do and won't reduce the noise much... 

Best mod I've done to both my wheels, slightly different from the above, I we can hear both wheels when they 80% beep at 10 meters apart. Also used the caps below, trimmed to fit and they don't fall off but it does revert the beep to low volume but only used if I get caught in the rain, keep them in my riding jacket pocket.  To cut them down I slid it over a small bottle (or anything round that you can cut against) and used a few layers of insulation tape as a guide and ran a Stanley blade around the edge for a clean cut, doesn't work with scissors.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TZ3TFZ7/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_tai_Y6D5EbHJA7Z2J