Popular Post Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted May 1, 2020 (edited) *** As a heads-up to everyone, this is a LONG post! If all you want is to see the end result, there are image gallery links posted at the end! *** Last year around June I got a funny little idea in the back of my head... I wanted to make my own custom EUC! This idea stayed with me for months. I ate, drank and breathed it. And then the LA EUC Games came and went and the fires of my inspiration were stoked with friggin' gasoline! I realized that it wasn't going to go away until I executed on it, so I started jotting down everything that popped into my head. I filled multiple little notebooks with sketches and notes on everything I could think of: from possible chassis designs and overall shapes, battery configurations, wheels and motors, pedals and their hangers, ride mechanics, control boards, cooling, internal wiring, chargers, power supplies, trolley handles, lights, speakers, fenders and mudguards, dash cams, stands, seats, built-in tools/supplies, waterproofing, padding and control, ergonomics, materials and durability, crash scenarios and survivability, I/O and interfacing, ease of maintenance, ability to modify and add to... The works. If I thought it, I wrote it down. And then I saw a posting in the Private Sales section advertising a great-condition Gotway Monster V1 for sale near me. I jumped on it immediately and never looked back. I knew that the Monster would be the perfect base on which to build my new wheel because I already owned a Monster V2 (thanks eWheels!) and loved it to death. The 22-inch tire was amazingly stable and cushion-y; it provided a wonderful ride and when combined with its 2000W-rated HB Motor, it gave me all the power I needed. The huge 84v battery (it was the 2400Wh version ) was exactly what I needed in a wheel that I wanted to be able to take me anywhere, and I could go as far as I reasonably wanted to in a single ride. I knew that one of the main things I wanted with this wheel was to have higher pedals, so I contacted @Jason McNeil at eWheels and he sent me a "lift kit" for the Monster consisting of MSX pedal hangers and all the associated hardware plus a set of Nikola pedals. And then I had to stop and think about an important detail: The control board. ***There is an entire sub-story here in which I tried to figure out how to design the wheel such that the control board could be top-mounted, rather than on one of the sides, but I ended up deciding that without having Gotway make me a custom firmware for a specially-oriented board, it would just be safer not to get TOO experimental with it. *** The V1 board that came with the used Monster just couldn't do justice to the motor, and the firmware, while I love it to death for what it is, just did not meet my needs. So I contacted @Jason McNeil again and got my hands on a brand-new Monster V3 control board to tinker around with! And wouldn't you know it, this happened just after Gotway started shipping out the new MSP-style control boards! I covered some of my adventures with the new board in this thread: Once the Control board was decided on, I threw myself into actually designing the wheel and went through TONS of iterations trying to get everything JUST so. I used a free online CAD tool called TinkerCAD (https://www.tinkercad.com/) to make my designs, and eventually refined it down to something that I liked. And then I scrapped the design and redid it about 8 times until I ACTUALLY liked it. Here are some screenshots of it in TinkerCAD (I can provide closeups on different parts if people are interested): Now, there is no accounting for taste and there never will be, but BOY does the final design tickle my fancy! It has so much functionality it's hard to list it all in one place, but I will try: Raised pedals: Increased ground clearance - great for off-roading and dealing with obstacles (high enough to completely ignore most curbs). Altered ride dynamics - being so much closer to the axle leads to a VERY different ride experience from a normal Monster. It is peppier and easier (less effort, but not faster...) to accelerate/brake, and corners can be taken much more sharply and without ANY fear of pedal scrape. However, your body's slightly higher center of gravity can be a bit disconcerting until you get used to it, which can cause a bit of awkwardness when stepping on and off. Super durable frame: Made entirely from pieces of ABS sheet plastic chemically bonded together, the frame is extremely tough but with enough yield to prevent shattering or major cracking during a bad crash. Support lines and critical areas are made of thicker stock (1/4" or 3/8" material) and all mechanical connections use multiple stainless steel 20mm M6 countersunk bolts and brass threaded inserts embedded (heat) deeply in the frame material. Frame strength was verified (repeatedly) with a 4lb dead-blow mallet at multiple points and angles to simulate crash impacts. (I whacked the sucker as hard as I could and didn't leave a scratch!) Built-in eWheels fast charger: Built into the top section of the chassis, the charger provides all of the benefits we've come to know and love. It runs at 84v with adjustable 1A-5A charge rate and 80%-100% charge level. The electronics look great and sturdy with proper anti-vibration measures, there were multiple attachment points for the circuit board, the reliability is top-notch and the voltage and current readout just make me smile when I see it doing exactly what I want. The Charger plugs in through a standard C13/C14 plug in the "trunk" of the wheel where a 12-foot cord is also stored, allowing it to be used almost anywhere and the cable/cord replaced with a spare easily in case of emergency. The wheel also has a standard Gotway 84v plug (also located in the "trunk") that can be used to charge the wheel in case the built-in charger becomes inoperable for some reason. Automatic Plug-less Charging Dock: Charging plates on the bottom of the right side of the chassis allowed me to implement Plug-less Charging when the wheel is placed on its stand. Each of the two plates has a matched pair of spring contacts on the dock that spreads the potentially high current levels between them and prevents heating at the contact point. A properly-rated waterproof micro-switch keeps the spring contacts on the stand itself disconnected form A/C power until the stand is in use (until the wheel is placed on it). Because the stand is simply passing AC power to the wheel for use by the onboard fast-charger, the contact plates on the wheel itself are physically isolated (relays) from the charger circuit when not in use. This prevents a possible shock hazard by disconnecting the charge plates when the onboard charging cable is plugged into the wall. Auxiliary 12v battery: 4 individual 12.6v battery packs connected in parallel, each with its own BMS. Cells are all older Samsung 2200mAh 18650s reused from one of my old Ninebot One E+ battery packs (all cells in good health). There is a built-in charger as well as a relay that disconnects the charger from the battery packs when it is not charging to prevent vampiric drain. This battery pack provides power to several individual systems that I wanted to be able to function without the wheel needing to be powered up: primary headlights, accent lights, bluetooth speakers and aux power. ***Feels good knowing that I have a part of my first wheel with me wherever I go on this thing!*** Automotive headlights: 2x 10w LED (Cree T6) aftermarket lights - most often used as additional headlights for motorcycles. As anyone who has experienced the new MSP headlights can tell you, these things can throw some photons! The difference here is that because of their all-metal construction they don't require any kind of fan or active cooling, and they are both individually adjustable so I can have my light exactly where I want it and change it whenever the situation calls for it! It's wonderful being able to have one light focused right in front of me if I need it and the other aimed either WAY down the road (these things are BRIGHT), up into the trees, towards (or away from) traffic, or straight down to give myself more ground presence. Heck, I can even rotate it all the way around so it's flush with the chassis, effectively turning one light off if I don't need that much brightness for some reason. EVA foam padding: EVA foam (craft foam) is a wonderful material that I have long used on my wheel mods, and it definitely makes its presence known on this wheel. It is relatively stiff and holds its shape well, but is also pliant and forgiving. It is easily shaped and formed, can be sanded/molded/heat-formed, most adhesives bond to it without issue, and it is generally resilient and able to deal with repeated use. Aside from the ABS frame, handle and "kickstand", the entire top section of the wheel is made from EVA foam. This means that the entire top of the wheel (including all of its possible contact points with your body) is a soft but firm "padding". High-visibility Reflective skin: The EVA foam used to construct and clad the different segments of the upper section was completely covered in 3M Scotchlite fabric. This is the same material used as silver striping on safety vests. It is durable, feels silky smooth, has a beautiful (subjective of course...) matte/satin appearance, and is INCREDIBLY REFLECTIVE. If this wheel is ridden at night, people WILL see it several hundred meters off, and because the reflective surface is so large and wraps completely around it, there are no "blind spots". Also, the majority of the black plastic surfaces on the wheel have been covered in a black reflective vinyl, which behaves much like the Scotchlite fabric with a thin black overlay. It looks black in the daylight, but at night if there is a light pointed anywhere near it, it will reflect back as a bright silver/gold color depending on the color of the light. Trolley/Lift handle: The lift handle on this wheel was designed to be just high enough off the ground as to make a trolley handle unneeded, but not so high as to make someone... uncomfortable while riding it The handle is made of polycarbonate tube (incredibly strong) with Scotchlite fabric inside and sturdy ABS braces that are designed to easily survive a violent crash. The braces are in turn attached to a 3/8" polycarbonate sheet that acts as a "lid" for the wheel's upper section/compartment. This sheet allows the charger electronics to remain visible for easy inspection as well as allowing the non-contact motor cutoff switch to operate freely. Non-contact Motor Cutoff switch: I got tired of dealing with motor cutoff switches that were unreliable or eventually failed from overuse or water/dirt/dust ingress. To solve this problem I decided to use a photoelectric switch aimed at the bottom of the handle to trigger the motor cutoff. It works fantastically! It never fails to trigger when a hand or glove is placed into the opening beneath the handle. Removeable Seat attachment: Riding seated is almost necessary for the distances that a fully-equipped Monster can take you, so of course I made a seat for this wheel! Very simple ABS construction with 1"-1.5" of neoprene padding on top. Wonderfully comfortable and stable. Full Body Waterproofing: I have commuted 8 miles to work on my MSuper in the pouring, drenching rain many times. It's never much fun aside from the novelty, but the wheel always survived. However, a few times upon opening my MSuper for normal maintenance I have found evidence of water intrusion all over the batteries, cabling, and bottom of the inside of the chassis! This was chilling to me, because that could have EASILY caused a crash. For this reason, EVERY connection point on the frame and cover panels is gasketed, preventing water intrusion. Wheel covering: I added an EVA foam "hub-cap" to both sides of the wheel. This was primarily for aesthetics, but I also realized later that it actually makes the wheel significantly more efficient in terms of air resistance - the spokes of the wheel are no longer stirring up the air as much. I also added a section of the "hub-cap" that can be lifted up (this section is held in place with copious amounts of velcro) to expose the innertube valve. Additional heatsink area: I discovered sometime last year that a standard, cheap aftermarket M.2 heatsink (the type used on SSDs that use the M.2 form-factor) could be added to the exposed side of Gotway's newer-generation control boards to significantly increase their surface area and cooling capacity. I have made this mod to my MSuper, my Monster V2, and now this bad boy, and it REALLY helps with control board temperatures! Neoprene Battery Cradle: The compartments that hold the primary batteries for the wheel are surrounded by a layer of foam padding on the sides, and a much thicker layer of squishy neoprene padding on the tops, bottoms and backs that help to absorb any physical shocks encountered while riding. This takes a major strain off of the axle when you hit bumps and the like, and also serves to protect the batteries themselves. Essential tool storage: I decided early on that I wanted an easy-to-access place built into the wheel to store whatever I might need to address issues/accidents while out in the field or away from home, just in case something burned, popped, or needed to be replaced or anything. I wanted to always be prepared and never have to even think about it, so I made sure that the "frunk" (front trunk) area was designed such that it can fit and secure the small assortment of Hex-wrenches necessary to take apart EVERY mechanical connection in the wheel, as well as a micro bicycle pump in case of minor flats. Dual dash-cams (forward and rear): I installed a good-quality dual dash-cam setup (1 "brain" and 2 cameras) that was designed for motorcycles. The cameras are completely waterproof, and are built into the "bumpers" on the wheel - one facing forward and the other one backward. This system supports up to a 256Gb SD card, which means that when both cameras are recording at 1080p I get well over 12 hours of straight recording time! The dash cam turns on and powers off with my wheel so I never have to think about it - if I'm riding, I'm recording. It feels great knowing that if anything happens, I have proof - even if I never see it coming... Dual 40W Waterproof Bluetooth Exciters (speakers): While I have never before felt the need to blast my music loud enough for everyone to hear it, I decided it would be kind of fun to turn up the TRON soundtrack as I'm blazing around the city at night every once in a while... To that end, I decided to attach some high-powered "exciters" to the inside of the chassis. These neat little devices use the chassis itself as the speaker diaphragm so I don't have to break the integrity of the chassis by drilling holes for traditional speakers! And they are LOUD. I'm just using a cheap little 15-20w per channel bluetooth amplifier to drive them, but uh... you can hear me coming if I want you to Best of all, the system is controlled by an external switch and runs on the auxiliary 12v battery pack I built into it, so it only turns on when I WANT it to, not every time I turn the wheel on. Lookin' at you, Gotway... "Kickstand": The rear end of the top section is designed for the wheel to rest on when it is not in use. Just tilt the wheel back until the "taillight" is resting on the ground, and the wheel will sit upright and perfectly stable. "Accent" lighting: One of the most iconic features of the vehicle I took my inspiration from for this wheel is its distinctive headlight and taillight. I tried to recreate them with what I think is great success! I used super high-density white LED strips behind a piece of diffused plastic for the laser-like front headlight and it is incredibly bright and directional. The tail light is a more standard density red LED strip, also directed through a piece of diffused plastic and is very bright and visible. This is another system that runs off of the auxiliary battery and can be turned on without the wheel active. Undercarriage lighting: I decided that undercarriage glow lighting might look interesting at times, so I installed a pair of waterproof 5v RGB LED strips in the "wheel well" above the wheel itself, and wired them into the control board's headlight circuit. This gives me soft undercarriage lighting of whatever hue I want that illuminates the tire, wheel and ground below as long as the wheel is running. Makes for a cool effect! Auxiliary power port: I am a modder, and I know that in the future I will probably have an idea that I want to implement on this wheel. To that end, I left a switch-controlled DC power plug on the wheel's main IO panel that is connected to the auxiliary battery. It can run basically anything that takes 12v and I don't need to worry about it being able to push enough current! If the future me requires power, he shall have it! Phew, that was a lot of stuff! And there's a LOT more that went into the particulars of the design that helped me eliminate problems I have come up against in my other wheels and have heard other people mention about theirs. That said, I started out to write a simple post here, not a book (and I fear that has already happened...). I have already put almost 300 miles on the wheel now that I have built it and I must say that it is AMAZING! It rides like a dream. All the power of Gotway's latest wheels with a spunkiness to it that's all its own. Comfort, and a sensation of plantedness that I haven't experienced before on any other wheel. It behaves and moves like a much smaller wheel thanks to the pedal placement, but doesn't give up any of its imposing authority or stability. It feels fantastic in a way that you just have to try for yourself. Well, try and get used to, because it is a CHUNKY boy (about 80lbs worth) and has some quirks that go along with it. The inertia, center of gravity, leg contact points and how the firmware interacts with both it and you are different from anything else I've ridden and can take some time to acclimate to. That said, it's my new favorite wheel, hands down. I took a bunch of pictures during the fabrication and assembly process (when I remembered...) and have posted them in several albums on Flickr. The photos don't have captions so if you have questions feel free to ask! Here ya go! Frame Construction: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9vdtgU Populating Top Compartment: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/84W13u Wheel Cover: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9Z44wv Populating Sides and Underside: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/vXnX9v Front and Rear Bumpers: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/hk7797 Side Pads, Nose and Tail: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/24eq52 Frunk, Trunk and Skin: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/0P7A4f Primary Batteries and Wiring: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/jr4776 Charging Stand: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/549D0J Final Assembly: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/s3PH30 Vanity Shots: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/iVs4iC Edited May 3, 2020 by Arbolest capitalization and extra spaces 36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Espen R Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 @Arbolest Cybertruck:) I love aesthetic design, with beautiful curves and interesting lines, but I also love functional design like this. Serviceability trumps beauty when you need a tire change. How is it to ride compared to the original Monster, and what is that trolley handle you have on the red Monster? Awesome work man! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 @Espen R Thanks! The ride is amazing. It feels like riding a Monster that is buzzed on coffee. It is quicker to react and more maneuverable, but takes more control to do things precisely. I think this is mostly because of the raised pedals. Because there is more mass on the wheel itself, as opposed to say in a backpack that you are carrying, it feels far more "planted" than a normal Monster. Small bumps and debris don't disturb it as much. It does, however, have more inertia! You need to tilt it more in turns or it will try very hard to "keep going straight" even if you don't want it to. The trolley handle I have on the Monster is one that I took out of an old rolling suitcase and just zip-tied to the old Monster's frame (you can see the ties if you look closely at the pictures). It works fantastically and comes up to the perfect height for me when I extend it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 I think I'm going to name it CYBERWHEEL... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yuweng Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 i sort of got similar idea (custom EUC ala SBU ala mountain aka muni) when i got an extra 67.2v board when i upgraded my mcm5 to 84v but donno where to mount the batteries & board so plan abandon Spoiler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, yuweng said: i sort of got similar idea (custom EUC ala SBU ala mountain aka muni) when i got an extra 67.2v board when i upgraded my mcm5 to 84v but donno where to mount the batteries & board so plan abandon Reveal hidden contents That sounds interesting but really hard to implement safely xD You would need to firmware to only assist when you wanted it to... Edited May 1, 2020 by Arbolest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Brilliant absolutely brilliant 😊 what else can I say 👍 I'd like to see some nice pics of the lighting please , well done on the project 👍👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 6 minutes ago, stephen said: Brilliant absolutely brilliant 😊 what else can I say 👍 I'd like to see some nice pics of the lighting please , well done on the project 👍👍 Thank you! As soon as I can get someone to take some good photos and video of it at night I will post it, but my phone camera just CANNOT deal with the amount of light this thing puts out normally. It's too bright and I either get a black image with JUST the light well-defined, or a bright image with a huge flare where the light should be 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 1, 2020 @stephen These are the best shots I can get of them. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 I was wondering how long it would be.... this is awesome work bro! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Arbolest said: @stephen These are the best shots I can get of them. Love the straight lines of the lighting 👍have you also got 2 main beam lights ,, it's so different and unique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 11 minutes ago, stephen said: Love the straight lines of the lighting 👍have you also got 2 main beam lights ,, it's so different and unique Heheheh, the two main beams are dazzling. No way I can get a picture. They honestly seem to throw more light than the headlights on my car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Such an amazing, ambitious design- from conceptualization to R&D to final construction is absolutely brilliant! Your exceptional electrical and mechanical design layout coupled with your impeccable workmanship is superb! Congratulations! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arbolest Posted May 1, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 1, 2020 8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Such an amazing, ambitious design- from conceptualization to R&D to final construction is absolutely brilliant! Your exceptional electrical and mechanical design layout coupled with your impeccable workmanship is superb! Congratulations! Well thank you kindly! You flatter me! I love making things, and comments like yours really make all the work worth it... I'm glad you like it! I've worked on many projects in my time, but none that took so much mind-space and meticulous planning. I think one of the best parts of it was being able to take advantage of the forced down-time from the shutdown/quarantine to work exclusively on it. If not for that it would have taken several months longer! Some of my friends have been going stir-crazy at home with nothing to do, but this thing really kept me sane! And now, I get to go out and enjoy it for the remainder! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Damn wow! I might have more to say once I look at this more, but... damn wow! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arbolest Posted May 2, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 2, 2020 Stopped by the TESLA Fremont factory while I was out and about today! Also realized there are no decent pictures of the wheel with the seat attached! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 (edited) Man that is freaking awesome looking! So damn easily serviceable too! You da man! If you'd work for $4 a day, Im sure one of these euc manufacturers could use you! The top reminds me of one of those old school cordless hand vacs... Edited May 2, 2020 by ShanesPlanet 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 14 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said: Man that is freaking awesome looking! So damn easily serviceable too! You da man! If you'd work for $4 a day, Im sure one of these euc manufacturers could use you! The top reminds me of one of those old school cordless hand vacs... Hahahaha, I hadn't thought of it like that, but I suppose so! I was going for something like a bicycle seat that was a bit wider and more in keeping with the straight lines of the wheel in general. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCGUY Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Bravo! Looks very unique. How long did this take you from the first idea to a finished project? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 3 hours ago, EUC GUY said: Bravo! Looks very unique. How long did this take you from the first idea to a finished project? From very first inkling that I wanted to make one? About 10 months all told, but I didn't actually start doing what I would consider "work" on it until mid-November (when I started making CAD drawings), so if I was in court I would say it's 5-ish months. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mono_brasil Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 On 5/1/2020 at 3:05 AM, Arbolest said: ***There is an entire sub-story here in which I tried to figure out how to design the wheel such that the control board could be top-mounted, rather than on one of the sides, but I ended up deciding that without having Gotway make me a custom firmware for a specially-oriented board, it would just be safer not to get TOO experimental with it. *** First of all this is truly a gem of a post and man final result is AWESOME! Congratulations, real master work there! I am very interested in this part. What made you give up on the new board orientation? Did you simply decide not to do anything about it or were there specific reasons you gave up? Again: congrats, awesome work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arbolest Posted May 30, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 30, 2020 11 hours ago, mono_brasil said: ... What made you give up on the new board orientation? Did you simply decide not to do anything about it or were there specific reasons you gave up? ... Thanks for the praise, @mono_brasil! There were actually several reasons I decided to give up on a top-mounted control board for this wheel: 1) Gotway tunes all of their firmwares for specific wheels, and while it might be possible to use a standard top-mounted board from a Nikola or Tesla for example, it would not be safe. a) The speed values that the wheel uses for alarms, warnings and even the simple calculations for how much power to apply at a given moment are tied to a number baked into the firmware concerning the wheel's assumed diameter. There is a tight relationship between this assumed diameter and how much torque it thinks it needs to rectify a given amount of lean, so if for example I use the firmware from a 16" wheel in a 22" Monster, it might not react fast enough to keep me upright, because it assumes a smaller amount of power is necessary to correct for the tilt I am giving it. Now, it actually get's a fair bit more complex than this (PID algorithms for these things are a DEEP rabbit hole...) but that's a story for another post b) The other, more obvious issue is that the firmware for a Monster would need to be adjusted to use a completely different pair of axes to determine wheel rotation and side-to-side tilt. I can't just top-mount a board that thinks it's in a side-mounted position. It either won't work (best case) or it'll go crazy (worst case) And yes, I tried this, and I can say from personal experience that neither outcome is good... 2) Dealing with Gotway to request something custom seems to be more trouble (and money!) than it's worth... I've read a couple stories on the forums over the last few years about people approaching Gotway to have certain customizations made in the factory. From what I understand it is expensive, takes a long time to be implemented, comes with ZERO warranty options or guarantees, and is just an overall headache when trying to make sure they give you EXACTLY what you want. 3) Even if I had managed to get my hands on an appropriate board, it would be unique -- an expensive one-off, so I would likely be so scared of breaking/damaging it that I would never be able to just relax and enjoy riding the wheel. I built this thing to be something that I would enjoy riding. It sturdy, it's powerful, it's comfortable to ride, it's easy to fix and replace/swap parts, and a whole lot of other things. It was made to be USED. If I know that there is something in it that can't be replaced if I for instance have a bad crash, or I push the wheel too hard, or I'm tinkering with it and slip and touch the wrong part of the board with my screwdriver and it poofs... geez, it's hard to imagine that... I just didn't want to have a worry like that in the back of my head whenever I just want to go out and RIDE. 4) The wheel design would have had to be completely different to accommodate it. There were pros and cons to this, but it meant sacrificing essentially all of the "style" that I worked into it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andress Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 For future builds it seems opensource alternative for the control boards is on the horizon. Stormcore VESC capable of running 84V systems is right now being tested as limited beta and will hopefully be available to public soon. There you can mount on top or on the side as you wish as it is you who is defining the axes. It also means you have to tune the PID yourself but it is not that hard. Mitch Lustig is already testing it on a monster. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbolest Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, andress said: For future builds it seems opensource alternative for the control boards is on the horizon. Stormcore VESC capable of running 84V systems is right now being tested as limited beta and will hopefully be available to public soon. There you can mount on top or on the side as you wish as it is you who is defining the axes. It also means you have to tune the PID yourself but it is not that hard. Mitch Lustig is already testing it on a monster. That sounds fantastic and I can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arbolest Posted June 2, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 2, 2020 Aaaaaaaand just had my first wipeout on the Cyberwheel while at speed. I was about 30 miles into my ride on a beautiful road in the middle of the mountains in northern California. Absolutely gorgeous day, cruising along at about 18-20mph and just loving life... I was looking off into the trees for a moment when it felt like something smacked the bottom of my feet and suddenly I was flying. I scrambled and mostly managed to catch myself with my hands (thank god for wrist guards) and didn't suffer anything serious aside from a deep laceration to my pride - just a bunch of scrapes and bumps. Luckily I was mostly geared up, and all of the equipment I was wearing did its job! I had on my armored jacket, wrist guards, steel-toes and a full-face helmet, but for some unfathomable reason I decided that today I didn't want to wear my armored riding pants... Never again... I think the most fortunate part is that my head never struck anything, so I don't need to worry about the helmet. *Took all the pics before I realized later my ankles got chewed up too... the left one was about the same as my right knee* On a happier note, the wheel took it like a champ! I designed it to shrug off moderate to high-speed crashes and it looks like the extra hours at the drawing board payed off! It was spinning and smacking and tumbling all over the place, but the only notable damage was a deep scuff to some of the soft fabric-covered parts on the front end near the accent lights. That and some streaks on the clear side panels where my feet scraped past them when I got jettisoned. It ran perfectly fine and rode smoothly for the remaining 20-ish miles home. Happily enough, after a thorough examination when I got home everything internal seems seems to have no issues. I even managed to pull the video from both dash cams and the footage is... illuminating. It turns out I hit a nearly invisible depression in the asphalt about 4 inches deep. One of the ones that looks like a sink-hole opened up beneath it but the asphalt was pliant enough that it sort of drooped over the hole smoothly instead of shearing off near the edges and forming a typical pot-hole. I looked for what I had hit after the crash and it took me a while to find it. In the end I can't really blame anything other than an unfortunate combination of imperfect pavement and a short lapse in attention on my end. Ah well, live and learn I guess. I'm gonna be spending the better part of this weekend reworking the front end of this guy, so it's a lesson I won't soon forget! As a last note I guess I just have to say: WEAR YOUR FREAKING GEAR! ALL OF IT, ALL THE TIME! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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