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"Veteran" New brand of high performance EUC's


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On 10/1/2020 at 7:34 AM, Will R said:

Veteran are supplying dealers with FW chips for upgrades whenever there is one, although V3 (4.29) and above are considered stable, so upgrades like V4 (4.31) are considered non-essential and thus not always offered. If you have batch two you'll want to ask your dealer for an upgrade chip, as yours will come with V1 or V2 so the motor cable melting issue is still unadressed. You will also want to get hold of some fibreglass heat shielding if your motor cables come wrapped in thick black plastic insulation, as this is what melts (along with the shell).

How do I know what FW chip I have? I just received my Sherman 2-days ago, and Jason says it was loaded out of China only 3-weeks ago; so I was expecting recent FW.

However, Darknessbot reports my FW is 1053.0 which is a number that is very different than the ones you are mentioning. What do I have? Is it unsafe? 

Edited by Bridgeboy
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On 9/22/2020 at 6:21 PM, MrRobot said:

 

Anyone willing to sell their euc winglets?? Will pay for international shipping... 😭

What are you calling "winglets?" I bought these pads before my Sherman arrived because I at the time I didn't know the Sherman was coming with its own pads, and Vee had put them on hers and they looked like they fit well; however, I like the form fitted Sherman pads so these are just sitting at my house unused:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001110842385.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.349c4c4dc6k0P2

 

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On 10/1/2020 at 3:34 PM, Will R said:

Veteran are supplying dealers with FW chips for upgrades whenever there is one, although V3 (4.29) and above are considered stable, so upgrades like V4 (4.31) are considered non-essential and thus not always offered. If you have batch two you'll want to ask your dealer for an upgrade chip, as yours will come with V1 or V2 so the motor cable melting issue is still unadressed. You will also want to get hold of some fibreglass heat shielding if your motor cables come wrapped in thick black plastic insulation, as this is what melts (along with the shell).

How does one “update”? Is it a physical chip swap?

If so - is it just plug or is there soldering involved?

 

Thanks

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On 10/11/2020 at 5:16 PM, Bridgeboy said:

 

How do I know what FW chip I have? I just received my Sherman 2-days ago, and Jason says it was loaded out of China only 3-weeks ago; so I was expecting recent FW.

However, Darknessbot reports my FW is 1053.0 which is a number that is very different than the ones you are mentioning. What do I have? Is it unsafe? 

It may not be a cause for major concern unless you are noticing pedal dipping and motor cable melting. If you have the thicker guage cables then you should be on a recent enough FW to be safe and stable. They may have just changed their naming system. Perhaps @Seba could tell between them somehow, or contact@Linnea Veteran

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9 minutes ago, Marek Mazur said:

Hey guys, can i connect back light to the front? Just for testing purpose

Probably not, its not the same voltage: 5V back, 12V front :)

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6 hours ago, Will R said:

It may not be a cause for major concern unless you are noticing pedal dipping and motor cable melting. If you have the thicker guage cables then you should be on a recent enough FW to be safe and stable. They may have just changed their naming system. Perhaps @Seba could tell between them somehow, or contact@Linnea Veteran

I'm thinking I'm probably OK since apparently my Sherman was the 1,158th produced. When connecting to DarknessBot is lists my wheel as LK1158. 

@Ben Kim Tells me that means the sequential number of production. His is first batch LK6.

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3 hours ago, Marek Mazur said:

Hey guys, can i connect back light to the front? Just for testing purpose

No, it will more than likely damage or ruin the rear light. 

I can tell you how to test the rear light if you havent tried it in the front yet. 

 

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18 hours ago, Ben Hatfield said:

Roll bar removal tool - likely not the first person to think of this - also only works once one side is already removed.  I was able to wiggle out one side with relative ease, but the other was stubborn and needed assistance.  15mm ratchet with a little extension

 

I think maybe you are the only one that thought of this. 

Why would you want to remove the roll cage?

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22 hours ago, Bridgeboy said:

I think maybe you are the only one that thought of this. 

Why would you want to remove the roll cage?

tire change -

that spot I tapped the roll bar out of is part of the pedal hanger - likely really adds to the integrity of the design, but a bit of a pain to take down.

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1 hour ago, Ben Hatfield said:

tire change -

that spot I tapped the roll bar out of is part of the pedal hanger - likely really adds to the integrity of the design, but a bit of a pain to take down.

So you're going to leave the roll bar off all the time so you can change the tire more easily every 5,000 miles or so? I'm just trying to understand the logic.

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Just now, Bridgeboy said:

So you're going to leave the roll bar off all the time so you can change the tire more easily every 5,000 miles or so? I'm just trying to understand the logic.

the roll bar has to come off for a tire change - it will go back on after the tire change

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1 minute ago, Ben Hatfield said:

the roll bar has to come off for a tire change - it will go back on after the tire change

Oh I see; what a pain in the ass then. I was considering ordering a new tire to experiment but I'm not sure I'm up for that much hassle...

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1 hour ago, Wild Caribou said:

I noticed in your video that headlight strobes are flashing amber instead of red or blue that is typical for Shermans. Did you install a new headlight or modify the existing one?

Preproduction models had Blue side shooter lights, first batch had Red side shooter lights. I'm not sure what they are shipping with now but I purchased this Amber version myself from Aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001316625876.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dDkj5sI

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