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"Veteran" New brand of high performance EUC's

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23 minutes ago, MrRobot said:

Thanks for the input. I don't really know anything about how they work. What you said makes sense. My other concern was if it did get some rust in it before replacing/upgrading them, what about the housing of the bearings? Would the rust/friction from the old bearing damage that? 

I havent seen the bearings, but i bet they are standard. The bearing will only hurt itself. I guess if it froze up and you pushed thru the problem (youd fukn know it), you could scar the axle or perhaps the parts that retain the bearing. Look at pictures of similar bearings and youll probably realize its just steel balls (rollers?) in a cage. In high speed applications, you may generate heat from bad bearings, but i think youd hear them raise holy hell. My car has had a noisy bearing for about 2 years now, ever since wife went off roading. I havent ignored it, but am consciously avoiding fixing it. FOr the first few high speed trips, i kept checking rim temps with a tehrmometer and noticed no deviation from teh bad side and good. So, its been 10k miles and its still just makes a little bit of the same noise and hasnt changed. Of course, Im ready for it to seize up and am willing to accept that inevitablility. You wont want to do that on an euc, but you also wont be doing 70mph for hours and youll be able to more aptly "feel" any issues. Ride it and just like rotors, once the rust cuts off the bearings, the noise should lessen. Only when it became a problem I could feel, would I fret.  Over th years I have learned this tho... people who arent mechanically inclined, somehow ignore warning signs a lot. Too many cars Ive worked, rolled in with rotors that were down to paper. I ask if they heard the scream as the metal backing of the pads started to eat the rotor ribs? Usual answer was... it made a lot of noise for a while but then quit, so I assumed it was fine. Nevermind the pile of metal dust on the rims and the fact that the brakes dont work very well.  Its pretty much up to you to keep up with these things, as its entirely possible you could destroy your wheel by ignoring things. I'd imagine if it acts funny or doesnt roll like it used to, maybe THEN you can worry instead of ignore. If a bearing fails from basic riding within a warranty, i would definitely pursue that, IF I trusted the repair source above my own abilities. Once you modify or attempt a repair youself, you can kiss that warranty gone. If you are really concerned, ask whoever carries your warranty and they will tell you what THEY prefer you to do about it. Hearing things like this doesnt worry me. So far, the issues Im reading are fairly petty and easily resolved (unlike a few other on the market). :ph34r:

Edited by ShanesPlanet

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18 hours ago, MrRobot said:

Someone told me the second batch will have more waterproof bearings to prevent rusting... Unfortunate...

How would you go about siliconing/waterproofing the bearings exactly? Are there any guides on how this has been done on any other wheels? 

@MrRobot I responded to your quote previously, but I'm now wondering whether it was actually the Veteran Sherman you were told about getting "more waterproof bearings" (maybe you were confused about the V11, which is a known fact???)

After reviewing a teardown that EcoDrift carried out and uploaded online on the 05/07/2020, it was evident that the Sherman does already have "RS" bearings fitted (granted, in their particular case there were signs of rust externally, but internally where it really counts they would be just fine, due to the rubber seal!)

Monokoleso-Veteran-Sherman-72.jpg

Edited by fbhb

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Rust on the outer race of a bearing isn't unususal. The inside should be packed with grease and with the (RS) Rubber Seals there won't be any rust on the inside where it counts.

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13 minutes ago, eve said:

It says Duf. :laughbounce2:

Nice catch! :roflmao:

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2 minutes ago, Shield said:

Rust on the outer race of a bearing isn't unususal. The inside should be packed with grease and with the (RS) Rubber Seals there won't be any rust on the inside where it counts.

To be honest the outside of the bearing doesnt matter. It can be rusted like Titanic. Its not supposed to move anyway.

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40 minutes ago, fbhb said:

@MrRobot I responded to your quote previously, but I'm now wondering whether it was actually the Veteran Sherman you were told about getting "more waterproof bearings" (maybe you were confused about the V11, which is a known fact???)

After reviewing a teardown that EcoDrift carried out and uploaded online on the 05/07/2020, it was evident that the Sherman does already have "RS" bearings fitted (granted, in their particular case there were signs of rust externally, but internally where it really counts they would be just fine, due to the rubber seal!)

Monokoleso-Veteran-Sherman-72.jpg

I’m also curious where that info is from, several people disassembled the veteran and no one noticed the bearings to be an issue with water.

Seems there is a lot of random combinations of info lately. Not long ago some YouTuber claimed the veteran housing was upgraded to carbon fiber. The actual fact was that they where fitting glass fiber sleeves on the motor cables 😓 

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5 hours ago, Willy510 said:

All of that info always comes from "someone"  Oddly enough no one ever says who someone is when they are asked "Who told you that? or where'd you hear that?"  Some day I'll finally get to meet "someone" and maybe get to punch them in the throat so they can stop talking about stuff they know nothing about. 

This was not aimed at anyone in particular, just aimed at "someone" :w00t2:

 

6 hours ago, fbhb said:

@MrRobot I responded to your quote previously, but I'm now wondering whether it was actually the Veteran Sherman you were told about getting "more waterproof bearings" (maybe you were confused about the V11, which is a known fact???)

After reviewing a teardown that EcoDrift carried out and uploaded online on the 05/07/2020, it was evident that the Sherman does already have "RS" bearings fitted (granted, in their particular case there were signs of rust externally, but internally where it really counts they would be just fine, due to the rubber seal!)

Monokoleso-Veteran-Sherman-72.jpg

It's possible. It was just a member in our local euc group chat so he could have been confused and actually be thinking of the v11 🤷‍♂️

On a side note my Sherman has officially shipped and in possession by FedEx. Estimated delivery date of Thursday morning! So excited 😁

Any current Sherman owners want to give a quick start guide on how to get up and running the fastest and what things I'll want to check or change settings wise?

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13 minutes ago, MrRobot said:

It's possible. It was just a member in our local euc group chat so he could have been confused and actually be thinking of the v11 🤷‍♂️

I'm convinced that is most probably the case, as once a story gets passed from one person to another, the details and specifics always seem to change or get lost in translation/interpretation! :laughbounce2:

Edited by fbhb

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On 9/11/2020 at 5:23 AM, ShanesPlanet said:

I would assume that the remedy would be to replace the bearings with quality bearings that can handle moisture? I too am wondering what people are doing for this? My sherman is otw. At $3k and 80lbs, Im viewing THIS wheel as a vehicle. I will have ZERO problems with having to spend a little to replace/upgrade/maintain it, when the time comes. High hopes for the sherman. At a cost more than the car ive been driving for a decade, it better be built like a brick shithouse. I had a dream last night that I used a ramp to roll it into the back seat of the '92 camry. I guess the weight of it has been on my mind a lot.

I lift mine in and out of the boot no issues FYI.

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While waiting for my Sherman to arrive I've made a dual port 'Y' adapter for charging. It's fairly simple to make just remember that pins 1 & 2 are (+) and pins 3 & 4 are ( - ) I'll list the parts I used below.

Connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCL511Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLT2KZM/ref=twister_B08HVDDSTN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

thumbnail.jpg

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1 hour ago, Shield said:

While waiting for my Sherman to arrive I've made a dual port 'Y' adapter for charging. It's fairly simple to make just remember that pins 1 & 2 are (+) and pins 3 & 4 are ( - ) I'll list the parts I used below.

Connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCL511Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLT2KZM/ref=twister_B08HVDDSTN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

thumbnail.jpg

Nice job. I might have to do this. Are we sure the first batch Sherman's can charge at 10amps as long as it's split into two? What chargers are people using can anyone recommend one that let's you program the % you want to charge to like the eWheels ones? 

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Speaking of chargers, I've found the Leaperkim official charger too noisy for my liking. There are two fans on the charging unit, one each on both ends. If you're looking to upgrade the fans, their dimensions are 40mm x 40mm x 10mm 12v sleeve bearing type.

I bought a pair of Noctua rated at 17.9 dB and will test them out.

IMG_8745.thumb.jpg.278c7f2df7f4fc02331510b78fad1876.jpg

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3 hours ago, MrRobot said:

Nice job. I might have to do this. Are we sure the first batch Sherman's can charge at 10amps as long as it's split into two? What chargers are people using can anyone recommend one that let's you program the % you want to charge to like the eWheels ones? 

Thanks!

I'm using the eWheels brand charger. Max amps on this charger is 8 amps and I'm using the splitter so I should be good. This charger also has the charge selector for 80% 90% and 100% charge.

https://www.ewheels.com/product/100-8v-4a-rapid-charger-gotway-msx-nikola-monster/

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22 hours ago, Shield said:

While waiting for my Sherman to arrive I've made a dual port 'Y' adapter for charging.

But why use a splitter with a 900W charger?

As long as each charging port uses 4 pins (+ + . - -  as you mentioned), the contacts are ok for 5A per pin = 10A per connector...

(I thought the utility of "2 ports" was to simplify use of two stock 450W chargers.)

Edited by RagingGrandpa

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Each charging port can take 10amps, or 5amps each port for a total of 10amps, but not 20amps total.

I ended just buying another Leaperkim official charger so there’s your 10amp maximum, plus you have a spare charger in case the other one goes bonkers and you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere. Take both on your travels and you’re good to go.

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29 minutes ago, Mango said:

Each charging port can take 10amps, or 5amps each port for a total of 10amps, but not 20amps total.

I ended just buying another Leaperkim official charger so there’s your 10amp maximum, plus you have a spare charger in case the other one goes bonkers and you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere. Take both on your travels and you’re good to go.

Link? 

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3 hours ago, MrRobot said:

Link? 

aliexpress.com

search veteran sherman charger. There are 3-4 reputable stores that sell the official 5 amp chargers.

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29 minutes ago, Mango said:

aliexpress.com

search veteran sherman charger. There are 3-4 reputable stores that sell the official 5 amp chargers.

Ah I misunderstood your first post. I thought there was a single charger that could go up to 10 amps. 

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Some fool eating asphalt riding their Sherman at 40+ mph on the FDR highway at night

 

I have to say, I know suspension is a new thing that just came out, but IMO any wheel that is capable of hitting 40 mph should have it. Not as a comfort issue but a safety one.

Imagine being in a car with no suspension being jostled around on those potholes, it would be horrible. In a non suspended euc it’s just dangerous. Maybe kinda dangerous with suspension also but probably less so.

Having a wheel that goes that fast without suspension is like putting the cart before the horse.

Don’t get my wrong, love the Veteran and probably going to order one, I just think suspension can’t come soon enough. My advice to anyone going that fast is to stick to perfectly smooth and already known asphalt. 

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1 hour ago, shellac said:

Some fool eating asphalt riding their Sherman at 40+ mph on the FDR highway at night

 

I have to say, I know suspension is a new thing that just came out, but IMO any wheel that is capable of hitting 40 mph should have it. Not as a comfort issue but a safety one.

Imagine being in a car with no suspension being jostled around on those potholes, it would be horrible. In a non suspended euc it’s just dangerous. Maybe kinda dangerous with suspension also but probably less so.

Having a wheel that goes that fast without suspension is like putting the cart before the horse.

Don’t get my wrong, love the Veteran and probably going to order one, I just think suspension can’t come soon enough. My advice to anyone going that fast is to stick to perfectly smooth and already known asphalt. 

Eh. The guy behind him who stuck the landing didn't have suspension on his wheel did he? 

The guy who crashed was riding seated... I can't help but feel like even if it did have suspension if you hit a pothole at those speeds without having time to position yourself to prepare for it the suspension would probably end up acting like a pogo stick/trampoline and shoot you off regardless. It might even throw you higher?

Edited by MrRobot

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46 minutes ago, MrRobot said:

I can't help but feel like even if it did have suspension if you hit a pothole at those speeds without having time to position yourself to prepare for it the suspension would probably end up acting like a pogo stick/trampoline and shoot you off regardless. It might even throw you higher?

That would be a very bad suspension. Have you seen cars, motorcycles, bikes, or scooters shoot people up like a pogo stick? I have a suspension wheel and can tell you that it doesn’t behave like that. It’s not like you can do anything and ride without looking. But I definitely agree with @shellac, suspension is a safety feature. 

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