King Song S18 Discussion

[SpaceT]

I hi y’all, after 800km riding I noticed this problem on my shocker. I can’t push the washer back in. Any thoughts?

[Whalesmash]

12 hours ago, SpaceT said:

I hi y’all, after 800km riding I noticed this problem on my shocker. I can’t push the washer back in. Any thoughts?

Mine did that too. I deflated the shock and then managed to jam it back in with a pair of flat head screwdrivers. I can't really endorse my hack job method as being optimal but it seems to have done the job.

[mrelwood]

On 1/16/2021 at 12:18 AM, enaon said:

The 50T starts being a bigger battery only when the wheel demands less that ~700watts. 

This is exactly what takes a bit of edge from your great post. 700W is not nothing, not by a long shot. Calm riding under 30km/h can stay under 700W all the way, accelerations included. And even hard riders don’t accelerate and brake all the time. So depending on the rider, the end result can favor either battery.

 But the point remains that comparing battery models for their rated Ah doesn’t do much for us. Much more data is needed.

[sbouju]

On 1/27/2021 at 3:14 PM, NastyFartPants said:

Simple fix for the mudguard

I know I'm not the only one who has this issue.

I poked garden wire through the rubber

Clearly there are much thicker areas of rubber I can sew through if this doesn’t hold!

 

Yes, I used the same solution, but with a suitable rilsan collar, passing through the thicker rubber a little below ...

Edited January 30, 2021 by sbouju

[sbouju]

 

Is this the best place to attach a leash?

 

[mrelwood]

23 hours ago, sbouju said:

 

Is this the best place to attach a leash?

 

I think the best place would be on the side. Whether the leash detaches or not, your goal is to prevent the wheel from going further by itself. EUCs can overcome all kinds of obstacles and disturbances front to back and keep going. After all, it’s designed to put out thousands of watts to overcome exactly that. But pull it from the side and the wheel will immediately tumble and stop.

[sbouju]

1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

I think the best place would be on the side.

Something like that...?

[enaon]

On 1/29/2021 at 1:20 AM, mrelwood said:

This is exactly what takes a bit of edge from your great post. 700W is not nothing, not by a long shot. Calm riding under 30km/h can stay under 700W all the way, accelerations included. And even hard riders don’t accelerate and brake all the time. So depending on the rider, the end result can favor either battery.

 But the point remains that comparing battery models for their rated Ah doesn’t do much for us. Much more data is needed.

I agree, 700W is what most of the ride is at.

It is in this 3p setup that I think that those Samsung cells would be a benefit, granted they will be a bit smaller if casual riding, but would deliver better when pressed. The surge graph on the LG cell makes me a bit worried about the 3P/LG M50T cell setup when pressed.

I will try to fit 20 more cells in, then the LG ones will be a better choice.

Edited February 1, 2021 by enaon

[sbouju]

 

 

The supposed low autonomy of the S18 is enough for me most of the time, but concerning the exceptional use of an external battery (in a backpack) with it, how to connect it electrically without major risk and in a simple way, only when it is necessary ?

[enaon]

Autonomy is useful, but this is not what worries me about the M50T cells, assuming the cells in the S18 are M50T cells. I haven't opened it up to look for myself yet, so I assume the info I got from the web is correct, and indeed the cells on the S18 are LG M50T cells. 

If so, the surge is high, not just specs, real tests shows it too on the battery comparison site. I trust Kingsong software is accounting for it and everything will be safe and all, but I don't like it never the less, too little room.

The way I see it, with such an excellent cooling performance, it would be nice to have stronger batteries, even at a slight cost of total mileage. 

To answer your question, I wouldn't charge and drive. I know that the pack is from kingsong, but I would not use it, it is borderline craziness.

The cells will suffer more, breaking power will get shorter, and it is not that good anyway, and a cable hanging while driving is a hazard. 

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by enaon

[EUC Forest]

On 12/17/2020 at 3:03 PM, Josephch said:

Where do i get one!!!🤔🤔🤔

Maybe it's been posted before, I found this S18 stand:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002283806333.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7c1b2752OFyo3w&algo_pvid=66700053-fb93-4757-a9f8-1afe9153f05c&algo_expid=66700053-fb93-4757-a9f8-1afe9153f05c-2&btsid=2100bb4a16171951275846366e5a4f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[ffontana]

11 hours ago, Fntmsgotwaymten3 said:

Maybe it's been posted before, I found this S18 stand:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002283806333.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7c1b2752OFyo3w&algo_pvid=66700053-fb93-4757-a9f8-1afe9153f05c&algo_expid=66700053-fb93-4757-a9f8-1afe9153f05c-2&btsid=2100bb4a16171951275846366e5a4f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Still on process to improve It, but fully functional.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810443

 

https://youtu.be/cO611b543g4

Edited April 1, 2021 by ffontana

[EUC Forest]

22 hours ago, ffontana said:

Still on process to improve It, but fully functional.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810443

 

https://youtu.be/cO611b543g4

Great job, thanks, just ordered a print!

[enaon]

On 4/1/2021 at 12:52 AM, ffontana said:

Still on process to improve It, but fully functional.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4810443

 

I tested it, looks good and works nice, well done and thank you.

One remark, you have forgotten to upload the left side part. 

 

 

Edited April 4, 2021 by enaon

[enaon]

On 9/8/2020 at 3:52 AM, Jack King Song said:

This issue can be fixed by adding a thin piece of aluminum above the axel of the motor, since the tire is facing right you can place the aluminum ontop of the axel on the right side to shift it back left. A coke can should work, you may require 2 pieces for the right thickness, please also make sure you dull the edges so it doesnt cut anything. 

Sorry to bring this old post up, I just opened a friends, batch3, s18 to change the tire to a proper one.  

While doing that, I saw the shim on the floor, and came here to read as to where I was supposed to place it. I was thinking you were using it as a spacer, I could not believe my eyes when I read that you are actually benting the axle to accommodate for bad QC on the fender. In that s18 the wheel was aligned just fine without the shim, it was the fender that was a bit off, the rider was complaining that the wheel is leaning on one side, but I told hit he will get used to it. Am sure he would, but come on.  

Anyway, for anyone that has a wheel with a not so symmetrical fender, I recommend trashing the shim, just use a lighter and warm the fender to place.

Jesus Kingsong, use a heatgun to get the fender strait, do not bend the wheel when it is aligned.   

Edited April 9, 2021 by enaon

[Gleb Vetrov]

On 10/26/2020 at 8:39 AM, Purplecycle said:

On an unrelated note -- has anyone replaced their S18 motor bearings yet? I will need to replace mine and was wondering what model of bearings would be compatible. On my 18L I installed SKF 6203-2RSH/C3 and I have been very happy with them so far (rode over 4k km with them; the originals lasted about 2.5k km).

Did you ever find out if those for for the KS s18 ? Or find the correct size one for it ?

[Purplecycle]

On 5/22/2021 at 4:16 AM, Gleb Vetrov said:

Did you ever find out if those for for the KS s18 ? Or find the correct size one for it ?

Hi. yes, I used the same ones I used in my 18L: SKF 6203-2RSH/C3

The old ones were quite damaged because of the dirt that got inside (bad quality seals). 

[Paulo Mesquita]

ANOTHER KS S18 SASD STORY....

I'm very lucky to be able to talk to you today and being in a hospital. @ShanesPlanet you'll want to read this...

I went out today for a 1st ride with the KS S18 I received a few days ago from MyEWheels. I took a couple of days to do a proper bumper protection on the wheel and today I went out for the 1st time. Since these were the first kilometers the Tilt-back system didn't allow me to go at normal speed. Above 10km/15km hour I felt the tilt back and when at about 20km/hour (only a couple of times) it was just tilting too much and I slowed down.

After ONLY about 14kms in riding ON MY 1ST RIDE EVER WITH THE KS S18, all of a sudden...I felt the wheel motor cutting out at about 10/12kms hour. I WAS VERY LUCKY WITH MY FALL. THE GEAR PROTECTED ME and I didn't hurt much. The wheel went dead under my feet and I never got it on again. TOTALLY DEAD!!!

The wheel couldn't even be pushed because it felt like the motor was sticking it ( like when you try to push a turned off car with a gear put in). I was about 8kms away from home and had to call my daughter to pick me up (she has a Smart ForTwo so the wheel went on my lap...very unpleasant) and as I got home I plugged in the power to see if it went on. NOTHING HAPPENED! NO POWER, NO BLUETOOTH, NOTHING!!!... only the front light, sometimes, when I pressed the power button, flickered once or twice, but no more.  Both the EUC World, the KS app and the BT on my Huawei Mate Pro20 Smartphone or Kospet Prime 2 Smartwatch... don't detect the wheel. It's a dead wheel!

I'm really very disappointed with what just happened and I wrote to MyEWheel and I'm waiting  to find out they're going to help me with this. I'll need them to send me a RMA so I can ship it back. And I'm thinking - @ShanesPlanet you were right all along  - I'm not interested in such a dangerous and unreliable wheel. Either I get a refund or they  send me another KS16X and I stick to my original plan on having two of the same wheel. At least that wheel seems to be reliable.

Here is the link of my miserable EUC World Tour of today (also on my sig here on the forum):

 EUC World | Paulo Mesquita was on tour 10 hours ago - 14.3 km in Sintra

This is how 
I'm very lucky not to be in the hospital right n now!!! I really like MyEWheel and I know it's not  their direct fault. Maybe it's a factory problem or maybe it's damage from something that happened with the shipping company and that resulted the big fist size hole on the packaging (I sent MyEWheel the photos taken with the shipping guy with me) )when it arrived in Portugal.

PHOTOS OF THE PACKAGING CONDITION:

IMG_20210601_183536 | Paulo Mesquita | Flickr

IMG_20210601_183543 | Paulo Mesquita | Flickr

IMG_20210601_184906 | Paulo Mesquita | Flickr

IMG_20210601_183601 | Paulo Mesquita | Flickr

...or maybe there is just a quality control (from all EUC manufacturers) that resembles the quality control of hand made clay pots...and not of precise vehicles that can kill us if faulty!!!!

 I don't know but this needs to be investigated, fixed and I need a second wheel that doesn't almost kill me on the 1st ride!!!

PHOTO OF MY "DEAD" KS S18:

IMG_20210604_161647_848 | Paulo Mesquita | Flickr

...this sh*it sucks!!!!!

[null]

That really sucks, and is a good reason why KS has limited speed at the start. Good luck with getting over it.

[enaon]

18 minutes ago, Paulo Mesquita said:

only the front light, sometimes, when I pressed the power button, flickered once or twice, but no more.

it sounds like on of the two half packs, the ones in the back, failed. Have you charged to full before testing, was it charging to 84 volts?

 

just for info, the battery management of the s18 is a bit weird. A friend unplugged one of the half battery packs while changing the tyre, after pluging again the back packs would not charge. The motherboard seems to check voltages, if it finds a difference in voltage it leaves the pack out of the charging proccess. Also, if any of the back packs is unpluged, the wheel does what Paulo said, blinks the lights and that is it. It needs a reset(unlplug-empty the capacitors) and then all batteries should be connected while on the same voltage to init properly again. 

Edited June 5, 2021 by enaon

[fbhb]

1 hour ago, Paulo Mesquita said:

Maybe it's a factory problem or maybe it's damage from something that happened with the shipping company and that resulted the big fist size hole on the packaging (I sent MyEWheel the photos taken with the shipping guy with me) )when it arrived in Portugal.

@Paulo Mesquita really sorry to hear this and glad to hear that you were not too badly hurt, as it could have been so much worse if not for the initial speed lock on the S18.

From the look of the photos you posted of the huge hole in the shipping box, there may well have been some unseen damage caused by a shunt to the control board/4x battery connections knocked loose etc. (or issues as described in @enaon's post above.

I do hope you get some support from MyEwheel regarding a satisfactory solution for this unfortunate failure, good luck.

Edited June 5, 2021 by fbhb

[Rehab1]

1 hour ago, Paulo Mesquita said:

ANOTHER KS S18 SASD STORY....

That’s really disappointing! So glad you’re ok! I feel extremely safe on my S18 but after reading your story I shot back to reality.... no wheel is 100% safe. Best wishes on resolving this matter. 

[Tawpie]

Wow. That’s terrible—and I’m glad you didn’t get badly damaged. It sounds to me like your control board went poof because the motor is locked up (MOSFET short circuit). I wouldn’t touch a thing, send it back. And have your credit card company reverse the charge until you’re satisfied (they probably won’t do that, but heck).

Electronics are made of individually breakable parts, and when they do break they usually break when they’re new. Since I doubt any manufacturer burns in the control boards, we get to take the risk. Sadly, there is luck (bad luck too) involved…

A local rider got face planted by his V11 due to a failed MOSFET, it wasn’t abused and had less than 1k miles on it—but a part cracked and he went down hard. Sh1t happens is one of the reasons I don’t go toooooo fast.

Heal up friend. Curse the fates and get back to rolling.

[.....]

@Paulo MesquitaThis is terrible to hear my friend. It brings me NO joy to hear of a wheel failing. Quite the opposite, as I'm taking the same gamble but even more so, every time I ride. I dont go slowly or gear up much. The more of this I hear, the more I realize the stakes are high and odds arent great. Tbf, it could be anything from faulty parts, bad build, shipping or just plain Murphy's law. In all honestly, my bitching was mostly due to build quality of the suspension itself and other minor details that SHOULD have been caught earlier. One would think that KS has NOT in fact forgotten how to make a motherboard. I am really sorry to hear it, truly I am. I can only imagine how you feel. I have been VERY fortunate and none of my wheels have just dropped my ass from failure. I honestly don't know how I would climb out of that doubt, once one inevitably does. Even after 400 miles on the sherm and 200 on my newer XL, I still have this eerie feeling. It is great to hear you weren't injured. I can only suggest that maybe you not be as hasty and quick to dismiss, as I was. Its not a great trait of mine and I wouldnt want it to be contagious.

Please keep us updated, or at least me personally, as this thread is already fairly long. Good news is that you still have your health, and a badass 16x that hasnt betrayed you... yet. I guess NOW you can add to your resume'... "has lived to experience a wheel try and kill me." Fwiw, I dont know if two 16x would help. IF your one 16x decided to be a di*k, would you still have faith in the other? If its finds itself to be reliable, would you ever need the other? I hope you can shrug this off in short order as you doing so, will help me do the same, when the time comes.

Isnt it about time we see some burn in testing on EVERY unit prior to leaving the factory? Cmon companies, get your shit together, charge us an extra $100 for the hassle of a proper test duration/cycle and THEN that QC sticker MAY be worth what you spent to have it printed! Full charge, speed/temp/load test, full discharge, full recharge, charger and wheel as a tested pair and cataloged! This has gone long enough, these machines cost enough and the stakes are high enough. I'm surely a nobody, but eventually a 'somebody' is gna be effected and BIG problems could easily follow. Or maybe it could be viewed as a matter of respect and courtesy for your retailers. Especially KS. You want to be sold thru authorized dealers, make it worth their risk and minimize their grief too.

Edited June 5, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[Scottie]

@Paulo Mesquita All I can do is add to the chorus of well wishers. I am very glad you were not hurt. And I am very sad that your S18 went south on you. I was hoping to hear/read about some of your adventures on it. And I wanted you to join the ranks of happy Old Fart S18 riders, a club started by @Ubute and @OldFartRides. Happily they have not had major issues, except for the infamous mud guard looseness.

There are two S18 riders in the Indianapolis crew that have had good luck with their wheels (except the mud guard). I am with @ShanesPlanet, I hope you can make a mental come-back, and I add that maybe give a new replacement S18 a try. And hopefully your vendor will give you quick priority service on this. I know that it will be hard to regain the trust in the S18, like you have for your 16X. But, if you do give it another try with a new S18, I am sure you will ride slowly for a good number of miles, recharge a few times, go through some temperature changes, etc. Then you may be able to shake it off, knowing that you just got a dud of a wheel.

But I am sure you also know this. We all have to ride with a level of suspicion that anything can happen at anytime on any wheel. And at the same time, we know that the number of wheels around the world that are rolling successfully must also be proving something.

Again ... I am glad you are okay!