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King Song S18 Discussion


Phong Vu

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On 11/30/2020 at 5:35 AM, sbouju said:

 

 

I can’t get that horrible sound out of my head. Nasty!

Interestingly the initial part of your video where you’re pushing down on the wheel with your hands shows the shock rebounding.

The sound occurring when you mount the wheel reminds me of an intermittent hall sensor failure. Have you evaluated the bundled motor/ hall sensor cable to see if it’s been compromised?

50677531162_1d38b59350_b.jpg

The fragile hall sensor wires could easily short in this region.

Edited by Rehab1
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10 hours ago, sbouju said:

May be... But I need to be sure that the original S18 shock absorber is in question due to an insufficient quality, and that swapping for a better one will stop the problem !

I’m not sure that the quality of the shock is questionable. If the shock isn’t working and you tried one that was working from another S-18 and had the same results, then I would look at the limitations of the current shock. The shock can only handle a prescribed amount of weight. You mentioned that you were at the upper limit. I would suggest that you investigate other options that might fit your needs. The DNM has pretty high reviews and is not the cheapest but reasonably inexpensive. I spent considerable time and money to bring my S-18 up to the standards that I demand. I love this wheel it gives me an availability to trails and places that until now I wouldn’t have even considered. If you spend the time and do the research you will be rewarded with a safe fast wheel that is a fantastic performer especially off-road! 

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12 hours ago, mrelwood said:

If your wheel is under warranty...

 

Thanks for your advices ! Yes my wheel is under warranty but as can be a mail order wheel from a (reputable!) Chinese seller ... This one has been aware of the problem for several weeks now, told me they contacted Kingsong for know what to do, but I have no further news.

 

At this stage, my main criticism would go mainly to Kingsong, which allows itself to sell worldwide machines which have remained at this point at the prototype stage!

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2 hours ago, Mac said:

The shock can only handle a prescribed amount of weight. You mentioned that you were at the upper limit

Thank you too for your advices !

Yes, I'm a bit heavy, it's true, but well within the range authorized by the manufacturer, especially since I am an extremely careful pilot, because of my age (73 soon ...) and also to my good knowledge acquired of the dangers of this mode of locomotion with my previous four wheels.

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2 hours ago, Mac said:

If you spend the time and do the research you will be rewarded with a safe fast wheel that is a fantastic performer especially off-road! 

 

But isn't that work and time for the builder rather than the end user?

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8 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

The sound occurring when you mount the wheel reminds me of an intermittent hall sensor failure. Have you evaluated the bundled motor/ hall sensor cable to see if it’s been compromised?

The fragile hall sensor wires could easily short in this region.

Yes, I too have this trace of friction on the metal sheath, as well as a corresponding trace of wear on the internal plastic shell.

 

I am not a specialist, but the abnormal, unpredictable, and rather violent reactions of my wheel when the problem occurs, would actually make me think more of this type of problem (sensors, electronics ...) than of a questioning of the shock absorber (whatever its basic quality) and / or its articulated system (where I did not notice any hard point or blockage, when the shock absorber is deflated)

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15 minutes ago, sbouju said:

 

But isn't that work and time for the builder rather than the end user?

It absolutely should be, which is why I was heavy handed in criticizing and warning about it in my V11 vs S18 comparison video. But since they still haven’t fixed the issues and keep selling them like that, all we can do is spread the warning.
 

I’d course demand the seller to fix the wheel, since I think the warranty cases might be the best way to wake up the manufacturer. After all it’s mainly about the numbers and the bottom line for any company.

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On 12/4/2020 at 10:23 AM, mrelwood said:

It absolutely should be, which is why I was heavy handed in criticizing and warning about it in my V11 vs S18 comparison video. But since they still haven’t fixed the issues and keep selling them like that, all we can do is spread the warning.
 

I’d course demand the seller to fix the wheel, since I think the warranty cases might be the best way to wake up the manufacturer. After all it’s mainly about the numbers and the bottom line for any company.

Yeah but keep in mind that in France our distributors are real shit compared to what people are used to get with ewheels/speedyfeet services. That's why most experienced riders buy directly on aliExpress, where we can at least hope for motherboard replace when it's obvious per example. It's common here that you have a motherboard problem and they answer: no, your shell is poked, so there is no guarantee...

Just now, Matthieu Thegrey said:

Yeah but keep in mind that in France our distributors are real shit compared to what people are used to get with ewheels/speedyfeet services. That's why most experienced riders buy directly on aliExpress, where we can at least hope for motherboard replace when it's obvious per example. It's common here that you have a motherboard problem and they answer: no, your shell is poked, so there is no guarantee...

Plus the fact that they are really expensive ...

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Yes, if you're not getting any service anyway you might as well go for the cheaper option. If anything I'd be pissed paying inflated prices to the crooks importing stuff here. Then they'll whine people don't support the local economy. Just effing stop being so scammy and I might buy from you.

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On 8/19/2020 at 7:56 PM, Jack King Song said:

From recent feedback we are looking at improving the suspension movement. King Song team appreciates everyones feedback and we are investigating and testing the best method resulting in the best suspension ride possible.

We'll keep everyone posted in the next few days! 

Jack, what's the latest?

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1 hour ago, Yellowjacket said:

Jack, what's the latest?

Good question !

And at this stage, as the owner of a like-new but unusable S18, what could I do more useful than to encourage other potential buyers of this model to defer their purchase?

 

Edited by sbouju
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On 9/6/2020 at 12:36 PM, Seba said:

According to manufacturer specs, LG M50T (21700 cell) is rated for 7.2 Amps of continuous output at or above 5 °C and only 1.5 Amps (!) below 5 °C. In contrast, Samsung 35E (18650 cell) is rated for 8 Amps of continuous output over entire temperature range. As we can see on Wrong Way movie, Adam pushed his S18 so hard that current drain was very high - just before overload condition battery current was 53 Amps and the voltage dropped to just 67.7 Volts, so calculated battery load was about 3,5 kW. At the same time we can see that EUC World showed red wrench symbol meaning that wheel reported failure - in this case overload condition.

But let's take a look second or two before. When Adam was accelerating, at 18 km/h battery voltage dropped to 71.9 Volts and current was 35 Amps. This translates to about 2500 Watts, just 300 Watts above S18 rated power. So voltage sag is unusually high - over 10 Volts. There may be two reasons - one is that the battery is faulty. But another is that battery is just underrated in relation to motor power rating. Well...there is also another possibility that there is excessive voltage drop on connection between battery and motherboard, but it's unlikely. With voltage drop of just 5 Volts and current of 30 Amps power dissipated as heat would be 150 Watts, leading to quick overheating and failure. So, faulty or underrated battery is most probable case of such a battery sag.

Oh, and one thing to understand things better. To keep Adam balanced, motor needed certain amount of power. As voltage drops, current draw will increase additionally according to following equation:  P (power) = I (current) * U (voltage). So voltage sag will always lead to increase in current flow what in consequence will cause voltage to sag even more and so on. This is what we saw on the movie.

sorry to bring this post up, I am waiting for my s18, so it' reading time :)

I have some comments if you like. I think the samsung E35 is not a good example, it is not good at voltage sag. The king of 18650's when it comes to voltage sag is the samsung 30Q I think, and indeed the samsung 30Q  is comparable in useful capacity to the LG m50T, when used in 3p and in high current mode. 

I think kingsong made a mistake by choosing the M50T for a 3P setup, the samsung 21700 40T looks way better. 


This excellent site is where I got my info. 

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

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this is a nice image that shows that specs of batteries when measured at a slow discharge rate,  do not make much sense for the EUC usage.

The red line is the lg M50T  at 5Ah, the blue is the T40 at 4Ah, smaller battery in paper, both discharging at 10 amps (30 Amps, ~2.5kWh in a 3P20S configuration)  

Assuming that the safe usable capacity is down to ~3.4Volts, this plots show that the 50t will offer 2Ah and 40T 2.6Ah. The 50T starts being a bigger battery only when the wheel demands less that ~700watts. 

Capture.png

Edited by enaon
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Hi everyone,

Since I got comfortable with my S18 (500km on it) I now accelerate faster by grabbing the stock pads between my legs. And then sometimes in doing so I feel like the wheel "drops" a little. The best way I can explain it is like when your car is old and you have a "missed cycle" on the motor when you accelerate. It's very light though, it feels like it looses only one millimeter notch. .. Just a little "notch" like if the motor would fail to catch up for a nano second (nothing comparable to any over power symptom). However it does not feel like it's from the motor because even in accelerating very hard it doesn't occur unless I grab the shell strong between my knees and push with it.. at the same time if I test on a stop (or almost) by holding it between my leg back and forth, the shell isn't loose at all.  Does anyone experience the same thing?

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