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On 10/23/2020 at 2:39 AM, Shura said:

How had you reverted to 2.05?

I used Darkness Bot

Sorry I was just going over my notes. I used SoftTuner not Darkness Bot. 

Edited by Mac
Wrong info
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Here are my jumbled thoughts after riding both wheels in the parking lot and looking over each one in detail. S18 tailored for smaller riders, the kuji pad is really low. I'm 5'10" and my s

Choose your color..

I've had fun putting this video together. Data nerds rejoice ūüėā Some folks say that a big wheel is basically like suspension, and I put that to the test.

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I have disassembled my S18 received 1 week ago from EUCO. When I first received the wheel, I tested the suspension travel and found the articulation was rather sticky - not smooth like it should be. I removed the lower linkage of the shock to remove it from the equation and found that the stickiness persisted.

I have found two potential sources:

1. One of the bearing sets in the middle pivot point was not rotating freely. Upon inspection there was paint on top of the outer bearing that had clearly affected the proper installation, also it looked to be a bit angled. After complete disassembly I found that all other bearings were able to rotate freely and seemed to be installed straight on.

However, after removing the shock and suspension pivot arms I found there was still binding in the system.

2. The axle mount (the thing with 4 hex bolts that are quite tight) on the left side (looking down the headlight/front of the wheel), when removed, resulted in much more free movement of the sliders. I had expected maybe that removal of the battery holder would cause the sliders to free up but it did not change until I removed the axel mount.

How do you guys think I should proceed?

Thanks!

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4 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said:

2. The axle mount (the thing with 4 hex bolts that are quite tight) on the left side (looking down the headlight/front of the wheel), when removed, resulted in much more free movement of the sliders. I had expected maybe that removal of the battery holder would cause the sliders to free up but it did not change until I removed the axel mount.

How do you guys think I should proceed?

Thanks!

Check if surface which axle touches (on both sliders) had been machined. In my case only one of those surfaces had been machined, second one was covered by gray paint, so they were not aligned properly. Simple solution is to remove the motor, put suspension together so it is all screwed together to the working conditions, put the wheel upside down, take big file and carefully file this untreated surface - slowly keeping the file aligned with second side - this must be done with caution, and just enough to allow the axis to sit well in the slider mounts, so when screwed together - that sliders stay aligned and move freely on the black pipes

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19 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Do you have any photos to provide some clarity about your issues?

Yes I got to get it on here from my phone, however,  last night the seller texted me and asked to push on the rubber, after a long bout of pushing what looked like a rubber washer with a bulge (containing oil or air)  It actually worked!  After messing with the valve and the pump I got it sorted.  The washer is a little deformed so hopefully it won't come out again. 

 

Be warned, if you don't have a stand, no matter how well you stand the EUC up, it will eventually tip forward and rip out the charging plug.  If I can get that sorted then I am good to go.  I found a Lenovo laptop charging plug, identical to this one.  It doesn't solder in, it plugs in to a board with clips to hold the plug in place, I will make do.

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1 hour ago, Lukasz said:

Check if surface which axle touches (on both sliders) had been machined. In my case only one of those surfaces had been machined, second one was covered by gray paint, so they were not aligned properly. Simple solution is to remove the motor, put suspension together so it is all screwed together to the working conditions, put the wheel upside down, take big file and carefully file this untreated surface - slowly keeping the file aligned with second side - this must be done with caution, and just enough to allow the axis to sit well in the slider mounts, so when screwed together - that sliders stay aligned and move freely on the black pipes

Wouldn't this just result in the axle/wheel not being aligned? Oh, or is it because the axle holder piece that is really tight will pull on the slider housing?

Edited by AlexIsTheBest
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20 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said:

Wouldn't this just result in the axle/wheel not being aligned? Oh, or is it because the axle holder piece that is really tight will pull on the slider housing?

To determine if gray sliders are aligned - If it moves with friction/hard when 4 screws of the axis holder are all tight, and moves freely if you unscrew 2 of them (external ones) on one side of the wheel this is probably the alignment problem...

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Yes - coke cans method can work also if You do not want to unscrew the axis completely / or file the gray sliders. Please be extremely careful in case of beer cans use! 

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I have cleaned all the paint from the bearing holes. At the far end of the hole, there is a lip of aluminum which the bearing pushed up when it was pressed in improperly at an angle. I can't quite tell from the Russian translation in the EcoDrift guide, should I try to cut this lip out? What do you think @fbhb?

I suppose it can cause the bearing to not be pressed all the way up to the far wall and perhaps to go at an angle since it is always only on one side. I'm just not sure how to remove it.

Thanks!

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2 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said:

At the far end of the hole, there is a lip of aluminum which the bearing pushed up when it was pressed in improperly at an angle.

 

2 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said:

should I try to cut this lip out? What do you think @fbhb?

If you mean that the bearing was pressed in at an angle and caused some alloy material to actually be gouged, thus forming a lip of excess material at the bottom of the bearing pocket - then yes, this will need to be carefully removed! 

The bored hole needs to be perfectly round/clean to allow the bearing to fit snugly without getting deformed by a  pocket being "out of round"!

Can you upload a photo of the damaged area, so that I can confirm for you and possibly advise on a course of action?

Edited by fbhb
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13 hours ago, fbhb said:

 

If you mean that the bearing was pressed in at an angle and caused some alloy material to actually be gouged, thus forming a lip of excess material at the bottom of the bearing pocket - then yes, this will need to be carefully removed! 

The bored hole needs to be perfectly round/clean to allow the bearing to fit snugly without getting deformed by a  pocket being "out of round"!

Can you upload a photo of the damaged area, so that I can confirm for you?

Yes, it’s probably just .5 mm of material and would only affect the bearing placement if the bearing is pushed hard as far as it can go (as it should be). This is how it is on most of my bearing pockets. King Song did a bad job at pressing them in, I am trying to get replacement arms on warranty.

I have plenty of photos showing it from different angles.

50570E2C-FBEB-414B-B0FE-135A551C25B9.jpeg

Edited by AlexIsTheBest
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Here you can see how much it has been pushed out over the hole. (This is a different hole than in the above image.)

I’ve also noticed, before I removed the bearings, that if I retracted the barrel nuts a bit then the bearings would spin more freely.

2186BCDF-3B98-4ECB-AF50-A1FBB5F1631D.jpeg

Edited by AlexIsTheBest
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@AlexIsTheBest considering this level of damage is to multiple bearing pockets, I feel you would definitely be best in getting replacement linkage arms/bearings under King Song's Warranty.  Even if you were able to clean that amount of damage up, the bore would most likely be too compromised to hold New bearings squarely and securely in place!  Hope it goes well for you, please report back with your progress?

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16 minutes ago, fbhb said:

@AlexIsTheBest considering this level of damage is to multiple bearing pockets, I feel you would definitely be best in getting replacement linkage arms/bearings under King Song's Warranty.  Even if you were able to clean that amount of damage up, the bore would most likely be too compromised to hold New bearings squarely and securely in place!  Hope it goes well for you, please report back with your progress?

I agree, it’s pretty bad. I was surprised to see it on multiple bearing pockets but it makes sense if one guy was repeating the same bad method. Hopefully they give me new arms, they weren’t too keen when I first asked but I only had pics with bearings in and a small bit of alloy protruding like you see in the second pic. I only suspected the damage then but with bearings out and seeing it from the other side... this confirms it obviously.

Edited by AlexIsTheBest
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7 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said:

 King Song did a very horrible job at pressing them in, I am trying to get replacement arms on warranty.

Those pics are absolutely shocking! Theres no way I would run those arms - as has been said, getting the bearing in tight and in the correct alignment would be virtually impossible. Those arms are scrap IMO.

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Does anyone who disassembled their suspension recall how difficult it was to remove the barrel nuts from the bearings? Mine were very difficult to get out. I needed to use a vice to press them out, just like the bearings and I also noticed that moving them around a bit sometimes freed up the bearing. These nuts should move clearly, correct? I’m wondering if I should sand down my new ones a bit.

Ok, so I tried moving the barrel nuts through the bearings. It seems some are more easy to move through and some are difficult, it is a pretty tight tolerance. I think maybe after pressing the bearings, the installer then jammed the barrel nuts/bolts through. This could have further stressed the bearings. I’m surprised they didn’t at any point notice that the bearings were binding as they must have tried spinning them after inserting the barrel nuts.

Edited by AlexIsTheBest
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On 10/22/2020 at 10:25 AM, Lukasz said:

Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06?  Wheel has no torque at all, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in in firmware 2.05 

I just wanted to confirm we have the same thing. With my handle in carry position the wheel locks and it will not self balance. Isn't this what kingsong was trying to avoid in the first place so it will not throw people off the wheel, if the wheel thinks it is in carry position while you are riding?

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On 10/20/2020 at 9:35 PM, Christophe Maziere said:

Hi. I still have a little problem of feet pain on my S18. It wasn't the case on my Rockwheel. 
I tried yesterday for the first time a KS 18 XL, less pain ! . And I discovered the cause.
 Despite the pedals are almost as large as my S18 pedals, it's impossible to me to put the entire sole on them, because they are too close to the internal structure.
And unfortunatly there is no XL pedals available for this model. 
Any idea to increase the width ? 
Thanks
 

I'm facing the same problem

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19 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said:


Is this related to foot size or do you expect most people to have this problem? Or is it just preferred stance? Just curious because I haven’t even begun riding mine.

In my case the issue did not occur until I raised the pedals to the highest position. That completely messed up the ergonomics of the wheel for me, so at the moment I cannot place my feet under the pads because of the positioning of the calves vs. pads. In fact, I even reduced the thickness of the pads -- it helped a bit, but not too much. As a first idea, I am thinking of mounting the platforms of the 18XL pedals on top of the S18 pedals (but positioned slightly towards the exterior). Either that, or find someone or a shop who can cut custom platforms which I can screw on to the S18 pedals. If anyone has better ideas or the equipment to machine custom platforms, I am definitely interested!

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On an unrelated note -- has anyone replaced their S18 motor bearings yet? I will need to replace mine and was wondering what model of bearings would be compatible. On my 18L I installed SKF 6203-2RSH/C3 and I have been very happy with them so far (rode over 4k km with them; the originals lasted about 2.5k km).

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