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King Song S18 Discussion


Phong Vu

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2 hours ago, Daniel Hollinghurst said:

My s18 cutout without warning and rolled into a lake. 

I'm no expert but something doesn't look right.  You started with 89% battery and in less than a mile and a half you dropped to 57%.  That seems odd.

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27 minutes ago, Paradox said:

I'm no expert but something doesn't look right.  You started with 89% battery and in less than a mile and a half you dropped to 57%.  That seems odd.

I think that is a symptom of either bad cells or the battery needing balancing. As it was a new wheel it should have been covered by some warranty, not sure how that is going to work now that it had a drink..... 

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My mini-review as someone who has ridden King Song wheels for 4-years now.

Looks: Attracts even more attention if that's possible. It's like the Ducati of unicycles. I've had no real quality or fitment issues like others.

Feel: Definitely top heavy and doesn't turn well. My suspension while fine does not move like I've seen in other videos even with blocks removed. Seems to be breaking in over time if that makes sense? I have occasional wobbles, but am experienced enough it doesn't bother me. Pedal height was right out of the box for me and pads are comfortable enough - kudos to the early testers.

Suspension: As primarily a street-rider, fairly disappointed. I imagined I'd be Aladdin on his magic carpet and you definitely still feel small bumps. I need to try some more aggressive riding before winter hits.

App: EUC World for Android is a life-saver. Never dealing with KS apps again.

Overall: It really shines at speed for me, I feel much more confident than on my KS18L. Biggest disappointment is the lack of speakers, as I commute on a heavily trafficked trail and scare the crap out of people every day. Will likely stick on an external Bluetooth speaker for safety reasons.

Edited by Xolition
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8 hours ago, dsd317 said:

I purchased this set from Amazon and use the 90 degree valve:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9NXJDB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. I ended up ordering these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NV2LMQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll probably leave it on the pump as an attachment rather than leaving it on the shock because I read too many negative reviews on all versions I found that they tend to leak out air.

 

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4 hours ago, RockyTop said:

Absolutely NOT WD40

I like Triflow synthetic grease but any oil will work. WD is not oil. 

I was thinking about using Yamaha Marine Silicone Spray. I have several bottles of it in the garage left over from when I used to have a couple of Yamaha Wave Runners (I sold them since).

What are your thoughts on that?

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19 hours ago, FinRider said:

There are two ways to inflate the suspension on this wheel.

1. The KingSong way, with the supplied block on the pedal hanger.

2. By using a 90 degree or more elbow on the upper valve.

 

Note that the psi values between the two methods can not be compared. In your case you probably inflated the shock with the supplied block. You set the lower chamber to 80 psi. If you check the pressure again without the block, then the reading will indeed be higher.

the opposite is true for the positive chamber. If you inflate it to 200 psi with the block, it probably reads in the 150 range without the block. These are simple laws of physics when adding pressure to a chamber and then checking the pressure when the chambers size has changed.

Both methods are valid to use, as long as you don’t try to compare the values from one method to the other. Using an elbow makes it more convenient and faster to make adjustments on the fly. The chamber values are only indicative though as rider style, weight, purpose etc varies alot so comparison from rider to rider is really hard to do. I like mine set up with a 10-12mm sag at idle (just standing on the wheel) and then going to 3/4 of full travel for light off-road riding (gravel roads with small to medium bumps). Rebound is set at 6 clicks from close. For me I achieve this with 80/200 psi with the block at 80kg riding weight.

I used the supplied block and [KS] recommended way of pressurizing the shock's chambers. I see what you mean though that it gives a false measurement of what is in the chambers once they equalize after the block is removed.

I ordered some 90° adapters and they should get here Thursday. Then I'll check the current pressure in the upper chamber and try to figure out why my shock got stuck under the fender. It's a troubling thought that it could even be possible for that to happen.

Edited by Bridgeboy
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7 hours ago, Bridgeboy said:

I was thinking about using Yamaha Marine Silicone Spray. I have several bottles of it in the garage left over from when I used to have a couple of Yamaha Wave Runners (I sold them since).

What are your thoughts on that?

:thumbup: Great stuff. My brother used it quite a bit back when he worked at the Yamaha shop. 

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8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

That looks familiar. The second batch came by sip while the first batch was delivered by air so I believe both batches are identical. The 3rd batch should show improvements. 

My suspension mods are finally complete. 
 

In additional to changing out all of the bearings, adding shims in various regions and replacing the 6 split washers with pivot bearings I also added zerk fittings to grease the 4 linkage attachment points. The suspension is finally smooth. 

 

Love your setup!

Just FYI...after I dissembled everything to remove washers and lube the tubes, my suspension moved freely just like yours.  However, while putting things back together, I kept checking suspension movements and noticed binding in the tubes after tightening the 4 cap screws on each axle.  Just to be clear, it's the four cap screws that tighten a plate onto the right side and left side axles (total of 8 cap screws).  I tried different tighten sequences to eliminate the binding and after many, many, many attempts, I got it down to a little bit of binding.  So tubes did not slide as freely as before tightening those cap screws.  However, it did get slightly better after attaching the foot pedals.

Anyway...please let us know if you have similar experience while tightening those cap screws.

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Thanks! Yes those particular articulations cannot be over tightened.  KS did provide long enough barrel posts for the screws to bottom out when tightened.

I tried finding longer barrel posts but gave up. I was even tempted to install sets screw but ended up just using red lock tight. Once it set up over night the screws and barrel posts are secure.

Good luck. If interested here are some of my other mods:

 

Edited by Rehab1
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4 hours ago, dsd317 said:

Anyway...please let us know if you have similar experience while tightening those cap screws.

I totally blew the answer to your question. Sorry! I plan to attach the motor tonight if my wife doesn’t bug me. I'll keep you posted on the how my assembly goes. I’ve heard many stories about the sliders binding once the cap screws are tightened. Should be fun!;)

Edited by Rehab1
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7 hours ago, dsd317 said:

Anyway...please let us know if you have similar experience while tightening those cap screws.

I just mounted the fender and motor and yes my suspension tightened up slightly as well. Don’t forget that the motor wire‘s stiff cabling creates some drag.

50377055497_1d6c442862_b.jpg

I also believe the motor axle bushings may be a tad too wide causing some binding in the sliders. 

50376902776_c6e1d01f21_b.jpg

I’m not sure if I want to destroy my bushings by grinding them down as I don't have any spares. Right now I’m satisfied with the smoothness. 

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I’n not sure what to make of this but there appears to be some slight distortion occurring in the sliders when the axle bolts are torqued.
Axle Bolts Torqued

50376415503_48bccf5718_b.jpg


Axle Bolts loose

50377286302_2804d59033_b.jpg

Is .04mm X 2 enough to cause additional friction in the suspension? Not sure how to remedy this or if it’s worth the trouble. 

Edited by Rehab1
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3 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

I’n not sure what to make of this but there appears to be some slight distortion occurring in the sliders when the axle bolts are torqued.
Axle Bolts Torqued

 


Axle Bolts loose

 

Is .04mm X 2 enough to cause additional friction in the suspension? Not sure how to remedy this or if it’s worth the trouble. 

I'm curious if the measurement varies as you move up the rails? (i.e. are they parallel?)  Did you have the block in place when you tightened them?

Edited by Feynman
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