AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 That’s interesting that your’s seems to have been updated while mine clearly has not. I have no idea what is going on with the batches. What is the deal with the block? Do I have a block here? https://imgur.com/a/kX8ApuZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachboy Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: That’s interesting that your’s seems to have been updated while mine clearly has not. I have no idea what is going on with the batches. What is the deal with the block? Do I have a block here? https://imgur.com/a/kX8ApuZ Nope no steel block there..it used to be in that portion that had been sliced I think yours version 2.5, I remembered KS got complained about the suspension and they found out by removing that block made the suspension moved freely however not all been resolved and the issue came back, I think the russian guys solved the problem and gave suggestions to KS for improvement that mostly caused by that oversized washer, split/spring washers, bend sliders, suspension arms were not parallel and even, also the sliders were dry too that caused friction.. Thats all the history lesson behind KS S18 suspension..😅 I suggest you remove all those false washers and replace it with the correct one or send it back for repairs. Edited October 20, 2020 by Beachboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks! I’m trying to decide if I want to tackle the job myself or send it back. I don’t have all of my tools currently so it’s a bit frustrating trying to do things the right way. At the very least I need to get the suspension apart so time to buy a torch and try to get those stuck bolts off! That’s my plan anyway, the 40W soldering iron didn’t cut it. My concern is that I’ll fix the binding in the suspension arms but then I’ll have other issues with alignment and/or the sliders. Edited October 20, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe Maziere Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Hi. I still have a little problem of feet pain on my S18. It wasn't the case on my Rockwheel. I tried yesterday for the first time a KS 18 XL, less pain ! . And I discovered the cause. Despite the pedals are almost as large as my S18 pedals, it's impossible to me to put the entire sole on them, because they are too close to the internal structure. And unfortunatly there is no XL pedals available for this model. Any idea to increase the width ? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 I upgraded to the new firmware 2.06 and now the trolly handle doesn’t work in the carry mode. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 3 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Thanks! I’m trying to decide if I want to tackle the job myself or send it back. I don’t have all of my tools currently so it’s a bit frustrating trying to do things the right way. At the very least I need to get the suspension apart so time to buy a torch and try to get those stuck bolts off! That’s my plan anyway, the 40W soldering iron didn’t cut it. My concern is that I’ll fix the binding in the suspension arms but then I’ll have other issues with alignment and/or the sliders. This is what EUCO has sent me, what do you guys think? Based on the photo that you've forwarded, it seems like the unit has the different version of the battery holder. If you're comfortable with home repair, we can send you a different version of battery holder which we have in stock. If not, you can send in your unit to our facility and we can have one of our local techs to do the work for you under warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 3 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: At the very least I need to get the suspension apart so time to buy a torch and try to get those stuck bolts off! That’s my plan anyway, the 40W soldering iron didn’t cut it. Be sure to use some form of a metal shield to protect the suspension arm finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachboy Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 45 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: This is what EUCO has sent me, what do you guys think? Based on the photo that you've forwarded, it seems like the unit has the different version of the battery holder. If you're comfortable with home repair, we can send you a different version of battery holder which we have in stock. If not, you can send in your unit to our facility and we can have one of our local techs to do the work for you under warranty. Can you get us a picture of that new battery base and any other parts they send you later just for future reference.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 9 minutes ago, Beachboy said: Can you get us a picture of that new battery base and any other parts they send you later just for future reference.. Yes of course, also for reference this is what the block area for the “current” battery holder looks like. I received my S18 from EUCO on 10/18/20 and presumably they received it from China the week before. https://imgur.com/gallery/WHdlgXX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: Be sure to use some form of a metal shield to protect the suspension arm finish. Thank you so much for this! I’ll have to do the same for the lower shock bolts which are rather close to the mud flap area. I suppose I should just disassemble to get that out of the way though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josephch Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 2 hours ago, Mac said: I upgraded to the new firmware 2.06 and now the trolly handle doesn’t work in the carry mode. Any ideas? You have to go in the ks app and turn off the carry mode and turn it back on.. same happened to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 On 10/6/2020 at 4:18 AM, FinRider said: Guys, with permission from Ryszard from EUNICYCLES I would like to share with you the communication that he is sending to his customers. Again a strong reason to buy from an authorized distributor as you would be completely on your own if you bought a grey import directly from China. He has offered me to either send my KS S18 to him for repairs or to get the repair kit and perform the repairs/upgrades myself. I enjoy the mechanical work on these things. It is actually fairly easy and straightforward with the available resources linked in this document (see attached pictures below) and the official KS youtube videos on their channel. I’d like to basically replicate this kit. I have ordered all new hardware and the new shims mentioned above. I just need to pick out some plastic washers and bearings. Is there a good replacement stock bearing available on Amazon or maybe belmetric? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wilson Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 2 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Yes of course, also for reference this is what the block area for the “current” battery holder looks like. I received my S18 from EUCO on 10/18/20 and presumably they received it from China the week before. https://imgur.com/gallery/WHdlgXX Is that piece in the middle broken? It looks cracked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 3 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Thank you so much for this! I’ll have to do the same for the lower shock bolts which are rather close to the mud flap area. I suppose I should just disassemble to get that out of the way though. Your most welcome. Having a spare set of suspension arms allows me to experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Mark Wilson said: Is that piece in the middle broken? It looks cracked. It has a slit in it. I don’t know if this was to allow it to have a bend or to give the part some compliance. Chicken or egg? Edited October 20, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) OK, I got the lower mount off and the good news there is more free articulation than I thought. However, it is still not great and when I removed the center bolt and tried to move the bearing, it was rather difficult to rotate - very crunchy. Either it's bound up/squished or just junk. The bearing itself looks OK, it just has some paint flakes on it. EUCO is sending me a different battery holder although I don't think installing it will accomplish anything. So the question is, what should I do next? Edited October 21, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fbhb Posted October 21, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, AlexIsTheBest said: However, it is still not great and when I removed the center bolt and tried to move the bearing, it was rather difficult to rotate - very crunchy. Either it's bound up/squished or just junk. The bearing itself looks OK, it just has some paint flakes on it. 1 hour ago, AlexIsTheBest said: So the question is, what should I do next? Unfortunately, you will need to remove Any and All bearings that you find in this state and replace them if damaged, or they get damaged during the removal process! From your photo above, the paint inside the bearing pockets has made the tolerances too tight resulting in the bearing actually closing in on itself. The bearing pockets will then require clearing of any paint to achieve the correctly dimensioned bearing fit. The bearings themselves are actually of a good enough quality as they are a "High Load/Low speed" rated bearing, so if you need replacements look for the following designations: (Type 61800 2RS, or 6800 2RS, or 6800 VRS etc.). Please also refer to specific posts in the "Suspension Overhaul" thread, where Forum members: @Feynman and @Rehab1 have documented invaluable first hand experience you will find useful in rectifying your issues. I have also personally added Ecodrift's in depth article to the thread, describing the Full strip down/suspension bearing overhaul and also linked it here: Edited October 21, 2020 by fbhb 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: OK, I got the lower mount off and the good news there is more free articulation than I thought. However, it is still not great and when I removed the center bolt and tried to move the bearing, it was rather difficult to rotate - very crunchy 7 hours ago, fbhb said: Unfortunately, you will need to remove Any and All bearings that you find in this state and replace them if damaged, or they get damaged during the removal process! I fully agree with @fbhbthat all bearings appearing in that damaged state should be replaced and the pockets cleaned. Clearly your bearing is offset to the left in the pocket from the paint and the bearing race is distorted. Edited October 21, 2020 by Rehab1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplecycle Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 21 hours ago, Christophe Maziere said: Hi. I still have a little problem of feet pain on my S18. It wasn't the case on my Rockwheel. I tried yesterday for the first time a KS 18 XL, less pain ! . And I discovered the cause. Despite the pedals are almost as large as my S18 pedals, it's impossible to me to put the entire sole on them, because they are too close to the internal structure. And unfortunatly there is no XL pedals available for this model. Any idea to increase the width ? Thanks I have the exact same problem!! Coming from an 18L with XL pedals, the S18 is quite painful for me. I am looking for options to possibly add larger platforms on top of the existing pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 17 hours ago, Josephch said: You have to go in the ks app and turn off the carry mode and turn it back on.. same happened to me. Nope I tried that, I also reinstalled the update. When you turn on the handle the carry position doesn’t work at all. When you turn it off the wheel spins uncontrollably. I’m pretty sure that it’s in the update that the problem lies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I fully agree with @fbhbthat all bearings appearing in that damaged state should be replaced and the pockets cleaned. Clearly your bearing is offset to the left in the pocket from the paint and the bearing race is distorted. Thank you all for the advice. I have contacted EUCO to ask if they might provide with bearings, just thought I would try. Easier for them than paying for shipping the wheel I assume. However, communicating with them is strange, almost like I’m communicating with a robot. Anyway, I’m thinking I should probably do this myself. Not sure if I trust it to get done right if I send the wheel off. Thanks again for all the help! Oh one more thing, is there a preferable source of bearings in the US? I’ve see fbhb’s post on bearings. I can find plenty sources of ABEC 3 bearings but abec 7 is hard to find in the US. It seems the most common 6800-2RS is used on RC cars. I know nothing about bearings though. Edited October 21, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 46 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: It seems the most common 6800-2RS is used on RC cars. I know nothing about bearings though. These are the bearings I used. You would need to order 2 packages as there are 14 bearings total. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: These are the bearings I used. You would need to order 2 packages as there are 14 bearings total. Ah ok I looked at those, thanks! I must be overthinking the bearings. I was considering these bearings that are commonly used in bike suspension parts: Enduro brand 6800 LLU MAX But they are ~$6 a piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feguti Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 20 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Yes of course, also for reference this is what the block area for the “current” battery holder looks like. I received my S18 from EUCO on 10/18/20 and presumably they received it from China the week before. https://imgur.com/gallery/WHdlgXX I received my new KSS18 on October 7th. As you can see in the following photo, the iron block that is placed behind the platforms was missing and that means that the dealer has reformed and fixed the KSS18, but has forgotten to send them to me and I have claimed them because they are essential to be able to change the height of the pedals. The function of these square iron blocks is that they are removed after tightening the four screws that hold the batteries and the platforms to the tubes. It is important to have them because when removing them it is very difficult to unscrew these screws again, to raise or lower the foot platforms, since the screws without the square iron block placed in the hole, support a shear force very strong and when wanting to unscrew them, we would even break the head of the screws or deform the hexagonal recess. In order to unscrew, the block must first be repositioned to remove shear stress from the bolts, and then loosen the bolts. To re-tighten them later, it is also essential, before doing so, to put the blocks back in position. Kingsong advises to use the wheel with the blocks removed, I suppose it is for the suspension to work better, since the tubes manage to improve the parallelism that the tubes must have so as not to block the entire suspension. It is easy to check that the support of the batteries and the platforms is not the same part in your KSS18 that you received after mine. It is possible that yours is the old version and that it broke when tightening the screws, but I am not sure until confirmed by your dealer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) Hmm I see. Ok well I will ask EUCO to send me the blocks. They seem to have cancelled the order for the battery holders. I guess because I told them I wasn’t sure if that’s the problem and asked for new bearings. Man, communication is difficult, they won’t confirm anything and seem to know nothing. Also, thank you very much for clarifying this! Edited October 21, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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