Preferred V11 Tire Options?

[mrelwood]

3 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Anyone here rolling with an IRC SN-26 80/80-14? How is it?

One local rides with it in a V11, I have the 80/90 version on my V11 (which is damn near identical in measures), and I have tried the 80/80 for about 5km as well. Didn’t notice a difference in riding feel. Both fit the V11 without modifications to the tire or the wheel.

 The SN-26 turns like all knobbies do, so the wheel needs to be tilted a lot more for the same amount of turning.

 The SN-26 feels unstable if pressurized above 2.0 bars.

 The SN-26 is not a tire for thick mud, where the CST C-186 grips much better. But in wet leaves, thin mud, and for overall autumny weather the grip is great.

 We have only had two days of freezing this winter, and for the little I had balls to push the new tire, it did grip great on ice. Better than the C-186 (without studs). And better than my hiking boots, which should have an especially good grip.

I will have much more experience on ice and snow if we get them here later this winter...

Edited December 2, 2020 by mrelwood

[GPSchile]

hi, anybody has tried if the Shinko 244 2.75-14 fits on the V11? and how it performs?
Many thanks! 

[mrelwood]

6 hours ago, GPSchile said:

hi, anybody has tried if the Shinko 244 2.75-14 fits on the V11? and how it performs?
Many thanks! 

I tried. No amount of slicing the tire or raising the shell from the motor allows the Shinko to fit, the body of the tire is just too large.

[Håvard Hamran]

The most important question for us living in Northern parts, is which tire is best for receiving studs.

From my experience this would be the C186, but haven't tested this on the V11 yet.

Does anyone who currently have the IRC SN-26, know the rubber thickness of the tire? The BestGrip 1000 studs i use, needs a minimum of 5mm rubber to avoid puncturing the inner tube.

I would love to try both the SN-26 and the C186, so I might end up ordering both to see which one is best.

[GPSchile]

11 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I tried. No amount of slicing the tire or raising the shell from the motor allows the Shinko to fit, the body of the tire is just too large.

 I was going to try it. The tire tread seems to be the best but not if it does not fit. I saw a Kenda that fits, but with a different tire tread here:

Many thanks
 

[Unventor]

Now I have no tire knowledge like our tire guru @mrelwood (I think that should be his forum title. I am not joking).

I am soo looking for a winter tire for my V11. 

Or KS18L /V10f /KS16X... 

Sine my lever of understanding took me go ogling about I came across this site. 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=80-80r14-80-90r14 

I tried to look into what the numbers mean. But the cool this about this site is it makes a visual picture. 

I understand that you didn't feel that much if a difference between irc sn-26 regarding size. But this is what I could imagine would be different. Please correct me if I am wrong (I most likely is) 

80/80 size pros:

More clearance to shell at the top. Should give slight more room for studs (if this is possible). More round curve to tire as it is as high (maybe) that should give slees surface patch contact (could leave it easier to turn) 

80/90 size pros:

Bigger tire volume should at same pressure protect rim better. Slightly higher diameter gives possible higer speed (see website aboue, or less loss of rated speed). Bigger surface patch contact (better ice traction). More cushion or suspension effect in the tire. (As it is U rather than u shaped/volume). 

So this is where my geeky mind kicks us and get confused. What to get?🙄🤔 as I see positives in both. 

Since I am not a tinker my hands I don't take pleasure in thinking with tire changes and experimentation. So a comment would be outmost valued @mrelwood. 

[mrelwood]

On 12/5/2020 at 6:36 PM, Håvard Hamran said:

The most important question for us living in Northern parts, is which tire is best for receiving studs.

The knobs on the IRC SN-26 are vertically cut with wavy slits to increase traction on ice, so the rubber is not solid, and I would imagine getting studs to stay on to be problematic. The C-186 has two straight slits on each knob as well, but they are not too deep, so even the studs I screwed on directly at the slit have stayed on without issues.

 The C-186 has a larger outer diameter, and hence makes the wheel feel slightly more sluggish than the SN-26.

 

Quote

But this is what I could imagine would be different.

In theory, yes, if the tire sizes followed the designation exactly, those are the differences. But it would still be just 4mm difference in the vertical clearance. 2.125” to 2.5” is almost a 10mm difference. In reality the 80/80 and 80/90 SN-26 tires seemed to be even closer. I didn’t notice any difference in the ride or the responsiveness when changing from 80/80 to 80/90.

If choosing between the 80/80 and 80/90 IRC SN-26, I would pick the one you can get shipped faster or cheaper. It might very well be the biggest difference you’ll ever experience anyway.

Edited December 7, 2020 by mrelwood

[Halig]

My V11 has not yet arrived, but as soon as I can disassemble it, I will try to put this invention on it: the mousse, to be able to continue rolling even if it is punctured:

https://www.technomousse.com/en/bike/green-constrictor/

Being fully punctured, it would be equivalent to having 0.5 bar of pressure, which would make it possible to return smoothly.

I don't know if anyone has tried it, but it seems like a perfect system in order to don't always have the uncertainty of having to drag the wheel for miles. You don't need to tubelize and therefore you don't need to put a special valve (which I suppose would be the biggest problem to tubelize) 

[Unventor]

It It Thanks @Zopper. This was where my post should have gone.

Today I joined the group of riders the got the IRC sn-26 evo 80/80 14 

The evo version is a newer design. But according to the reseller there are manufacturing problem so that is why the supply is scares right now. So if you look for this tire do not wait out. 

And thanks for your kind help @mrelwood. You input were the tip on scales to push me to push the buy button. With luck I could do the mounting this weekend.

So now I have to look at videos/webside that go though the process of tire/motor change (in the simplest way). 

The site I got this (last item in stock that can fit the V11) is www.speedline.dk (they sell so several countries you can pick that by flags in lower corner, if your country is not listed go by EU 😁. 

Note: their site didn't show the evo model but sold under same name as the old  on-evo version. 

Edited December 8, 2020 by Unventor

[mrelwood]

2 hours ago, Unventor said:

So now I have to look at videos/webside that go though the process of tire/motor change (in the simplest way). 

All the disassembly videos I had seen have redundant steps in them, which is why I made one of my own after having disassembled the V11 multiple times:

 

[Unventor]

9 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

All the disassembly videos I had seen have redundant steps in them, which is why I made one of my own after having disassembled the V11 multiple times:

 

Thanks a ton. I have yet to see this one. But I agree most of those I have seen made a good video but have not clear enough workflow so like you said it can be done easier. 

[Unventor]

Very nice video @mrelwood. But I had to slow down the video to be able to read the text.

Do you have text you could post here too? And also a brief overview of required tool you use. I think it is time for me to get some new bits/tips for my screwdriver as mine current ones are worn and I don't want to damage any screw heads if I can avoid it. 

I guess this time I get to test my documentation skills a bit making photos. 

[Zopper]

4 hours ago, Unventor said:

Very nice video @mrelwood. But I had to slow down the video to be able to read the text.

That’s the right way. Quick video you pause where needed, rather than slow and long where you have to skip all the time and risk skipping a step.

[mrelwood]

6 hours ago, Unventor said:

Very nice video @mrelwood. But I had to slow down the video to be able to read the text.

Thanks! Sorry, the music was only that long. 

6 hours ago, Unventor said:

Do you have text you could post here too? And also a brief overview of required tool you use.
 

I don’t. I used to prefer making written guides with photos to support the narrative, but they weren’t very well received and people kept asking for an actual video, as if it were the next step somehow. But since that’s the way of the world, and the audience prefers it this way, that’s what I’ll do. It shouldn’t take you more than a few minutes to watch the video and write down a list of the tools involved. At least it’s 10x faster than doing the same with Marty’s video...

[Themarsman]

On 12/7/2020 at 9:36 AM, Halig said:

My V11 has not yet arrived, but as soon as I can disassemble it, I will try to put this invention on it: the mousse, to be able to continue rolling even if it is punctured:

https://www.technomousse.com/en/bike/green-constrictor/

Being fully punctured, it would be equivalent to having 0.5 bar of pressure, which would make it possible to return smoothly.

I don't know if anyone has tried it, but it seems like a perfect system in order to don't always have the uncertainty of having to drag the wheel for miles. You don't need to tubelize and therefore you don't need to put a special valve (which I suppose would be the biggest problem to tubelize) 

That looks like it would be awesome if it works as advertised.  Please keep us updated on how it works out.

Thanks!

 

[Unventor]

On 12/9/2020 at 9:04 AM, mrelwood said:

Thanks! Sorry, the music was only that long. 

I don’t. I used to prefer making written guides with photos to support the narrative, but they weren’t very well received and people kept asking for an actual video, as if it were the next step somehow. But since that’s the way of the world, and the audience prefers it this way, that’s what I’ll do. It shouldn’t take you more than a few minutes to watch the video and write down a list of the tools involved. At least it’s 10x faster than doing the same with Marty’s video...

I got first tool ready now. 

I were tempted to change this evening. But my logic shoulder mo key keeps telling me not to. 

I have a hospital appointment at 7.15am tomorrow morning, so I better wait until that is sorted. And spend my time today to watch your and others input to this. 

But I am looking forward to ride with this new tire. It looks like it means business. And the rubber feels very grippy (soft and sticky) at least to how I recall my cars summer tire that felt hard and kinda slippery (but fine for a car when driving). 

So the fun begins tomorrow I guess (I really dislike mechanical work, but I dislike sliding out even more). 

[pawelosinski83]

Hi guys! 

I am goung to replace bearings in my V11 and in the same time I would like to change the tire. But I have weird expectations: I want noisy, knobby tire 😁 like kenda 262 in veteran sherman i.e. Could you tell me how it looks like in case of SN26? Or maybe you have sone experience in that area and you can give me an advice which tire is loud? ;) 

Regards, 

Pawel

[mrelwood]

 

Quote

Or maybe you have sone experience in that area and you can give me an advice which tire is loud?

Well, this is a first! 😄

The Kenda K262 / CST C-186 is louder than the IRC SN-26, I think the offset knob placement probably lowers the noise on the SN-26.

 But if you want a really loud tire, get an actual motocross tire with a lot of space between the knobs. The tone of the sound won’t be as high pitched as with the F1 resembling C-186, but it will surely be louder.

Never mind the studs on my CST:

Here’s the IRC SN-26:

 

Edited December 23, 2020 by mrelwood

[Rawnei]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Never mind the studs on my CST:

Interesting pattern, I'm planning to put studs on all the knobs. 😁

[Robotchicken]

hello and happy new year !

Do you have a tire profil for on-road only to recommend?

Something with less the "rail behavior" of the current CST C1488 of my V11

 

 

[mrelwood]

14 hours ago, Robotchicken said:

Do you have a tire profil for on-road only to recommend?

Chao Yang H-666. If you can still find the discontinued tire for sale anywhere.

[Finn Bjerke]

There is no perfect Unicycle so buy more of em ?
There is no perfect Unicycle tire so buy more of em?

I want a V11 tire for muddy rainy winter condtion with very little rainfilled snow.  Also Ill use the tire the wheel was born with for summer.  Any ideas for the muddy winter tire for a 85 kg person as a suplement for the tire the V11 came with from the factory?  

[Robotchicken]

12 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Chao Yang H-666. If you can still find the discontinued tire for sale anywhere.

Impossible to get the H-666 for a "fair" price...

I don't understand why they discountinued this tire when the demand is so high and reputed as the best on-road tire for EUC.

Someone (Fbhb) put a cst c6004 14x2,75 on his S18 and seems to be very happy with.

Maybe i should try it but it's strange that a 14" can be extended for a 18" wheel

 

 

[fbhb]

2 hours ago, Robotchicken said:

Maybe i should try it but it's strange that a 14" can be extended for a 18" wheel

2.75-14 is how an equivalent motorcycle tire is sized and is a direct replacement for the more usual bicycle tires fitted to EUC's, stated as 18x3".  Motorcycle tires are measured by the wheel rim diameter and bicycle tires by the outside diameter! 

IMHO, the CST C6004 could well become the successor to the well regarded, but unfortunately discontinued Chao Yang H-666.  I have found the CST to be exceptional for my use case and highly recommended others to give it a try!

P.S. I will never, ever ride one of my wheels with a child's bicycle tire fitted in future!  They just cannot compare to a proper MC tire for grip, stability, carving, cornering and longevity!

Edited January 2, 2021 by fbhb

[Rawnei]

On 12/23/2020 at 5:09 AM, mrelwood said:

 

Well, this is a first! 😄

The Kenda K262 / CST C-186 is louder than the IRC SN-26, I think the offset knob placement probably lowers the noise on the SN-26.

 But if you want a really loud tire, get an actual motocross tire with a lot of space between the knobs. The tone of the sound won’t be as high pitched as with the F1 resembling C-186, but it will surely be louder.

Never mind the studs on my CST:

 

Hey, how's your wheel behaving with those studs?

I put studs on my knobby (MSP) 3 on every row, on snow and ice it's fine but on asphalt it has a weird behavior where it's gravitating towards the right which means I have to constantly parry the wheel to the left, making it a pita and exhausting to ride on asphalt.