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How to ride an electric unicycle - understanding the dynamics


John Eucist

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1 hour ago, Glitched said:

Well that's somewhat a relief, ironically, as this was meant to be my learning wheel anyway (and was an absolute steal of a deal) and as you've seen I'm looking for an upgrade now that I'm over the worst of the learning curve. I guess the KS14S that I'm potentially waiting on wouldn't suffer from this bump unpredictably, being a bit stronger at 800W and more torque-y as a 14" vs my 16"... great to know! The ride of the f260 is really smooth overall but I'll happily take slightly more choppy bumps for much more predictable bump climbing, hah. I guess all the Airwheels would be a nightmare to ride in DC/any urban area. Heck the InMotion V5 should have this same problem as it has a similar motor rating, IIRC.  Also all 14-16" Ninebots. 

Edit: I saw you experienced the same 'ditching' affect as me, @Marty Backe, but in one of your trail riding videos with the MCM5. You ran off as the wheel literally jammed into the edge of the trail where there was a steep transition up off the path. ?

That was a rather severe rut that I was going through. Is that the kind of bump that you're talking about :confused1:

But I will say that my 16-inch wheels would not have gotten stuck due to the bigger diameter wheels.

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3 hours ago, Glitched said:

bump/transition anxiety.

As said, your wheel is underpowered for going over bumps at more than 8mph.

How do you prepare and ride over the bumps though? If you’re doing nothing, even the slight reduction in speed can throw you off, even on more powerful wheels. I do a ”toe jump”, in which I jump, but only enough to lighten my weight. And while I’m coming back up from the preparing crouch, I press down with my toes. This causes the wheel to accelerate slightly to the front of me.

And for the bump anxiety? Do not get a 14” wheel. All bumps would be 13% bigger.

Edited by mrelwood
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8 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

That was a rather severe rut that I was going through. Is that the kind of bump that you're talking about :confused1:

But I will say that my 16-inch wheels would not have gotten stuck due to the bigger diameter wheels.

Yeah I'm not talking like dips or mini hills on pavement or sidewalk.  More like this type, which I've stumbled upon with grass/sidewalk borders and roads too (typically about half as high as this though). I'll typically slow down to 2-3mph or lessfor bumps like these. FWIW adding I'm like 145lbs fully loaded and the wheel weighs like 30lbs.

 File_006-768x576.jpeg

7 hours ago, mrelwood said:

As said, your wheel is underpowered for going over bumps at more than 8mph.

How do you prepare and ride over the bumps though? If you’re doing nothing, even the slight reduction in speed can throw you off, even on more powerful wheels. I do a ”toe jump”, in which I jump, but only enough to lighten my weight. And while I’m coming back up from the preparing crouch, I press down with my toes. This causes the wheel to accelerate slightly to the front of me.

And for the bump anxiety? Do not get a 14” wheel. All bumps would be 13% bigger.

Not quite sure I follow. You're saying on my underpowered wheel, going faster makes bumps harder, but even a slight reduction in speed can throw off any wheel? See pic above for the type of bumps I'm talking about. 

To clarify, I slow down to like 2-4mph approaching bumps/ruts and bend my knees more, for fear of the wheel jamming and throwing me off, and that's about it. So with this toe jump maneuver, you first crouch down shifting most of your weight to your toes, jump up right at the tip of the bump and land toe first? 

 

Edited by Glitched
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1 hour ago, Glitched said:

Yeah I'm not talking like dips or mini hills on pavement or sidewalk.  More like this type, which I've stumbled upon with grass/sidewalk borders and roads too. I'll typically slow down to 2-3mph or lessfor bumps like these. FWIW adding I'm like 145lbs fully loaded and the wheel weighs like 30lbs.

 File_006-768x576.jpeg

 

well. i ended up in such a bump at 50 kph...

i went flying. the asphalt had cracked so the next day there was huge bump that i noticed too late :( 

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2 hours ago, Glitched said:

Yeah I'm not talking like dips or mini hills on pavement or sidewalk.  More like this type, which I've stumbled upon with grass/sidewalk borders and roads too. I'll typically slow down to 2-3mph or lessfor bumps like these. FWIW adding I'm like 145lbs fully loaded and the wheel weighs like 30lbs.

 File_006-768x576.jpeg

Not quite sure I follow. You're saying on my underpowered wheel, going faster makes bumps harder, but even a slight reduction in speed can throw off any wheel? See pic above for the type of bumps I'm talking about. 

To clarify, I slow down to like 2-4mph approaching bumps/ruts and bend my knees more, for fear of the wheel jamming and throwing me off, and that's about it. So with this toe jump maneuver, you first crouch down shifting most of your weight to your toes, jump up right at the tip of the bump and land toe first? 

 

Good picture! Yeah, that's a bump that you want to be careful with. A more powerful wheel has a better chance of climbing it with no issue, but there are techniques for riding over these kind of features.

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2 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Basic EUC riding 101:

Here's my technique - slow down just before the step, dismount wheel, look around to see if anyone’s watching, nonchalantly pick up the bottle of goodies :w00t2:, lift wheel up and over the sidewalk hazard, remount and be on your way.  :innocent1:

This you just have to document on video before I kind of believe you ?

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You guys are hilarious ... most of the bumps that I do take the fall for aren't nearly as obvious as the one I pictured. I just go slow or divert when I see anything close to that rut, and usually come out the other end surprised how well my wheel went over it without much drama other than my own. One time I was pitted between a bad sidewalk rut ahead, and a sidewalk rut on my left if I wanted to switch sidewalk 'lanes' if you will and avoid the rut ahead on my side of the slabs(double wide sidewalk). I tried to switch 'lanes', and the wheel got disturbed enough to send me driving it into the grass. I suspect that would've gone even worse with my relatively high PSI I pumped in last night.  But like on my last ride, TWICE I got thrown because of two different hidden ruts (bumps? ruts? you get the idea I hope) because the pavement was raised up maybe 1-3 inches but the grass was largely hiding the difference.  Maybe I should carry a measuring tape everywhere I wheel. ?

Edited by Glitched
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5 hours ago, Glitched said:

You guys are hilarious ... most of the bumps that I do take the fall for aren't nearly as obvious as the one I pictured. I just go slow or divert when I see anything close to that rut, and usually come out the other end surprised how well my wheel went over it without much drama other than my own. One time I was pitted between a bad sidewalk rut ahead, and a sidewalk rut on my left if I wanted to switch sidewalk 'lanes' if you will and avoid the rut ahead on my side of the slabs(double wide sidewalk). I tried to switch 'lanes', and the wheel got disturbed enough to send me driving it into the grass. I suspect that would've gone even worse with my relatively high PSI I pumped in last night.  But like on my last ride, TWICE I got thrown because of two different hidden ruts (bumps? ruts? you get the idea I hope) because the pavement was raised up maybe 1-3 inches but the grass was largely hiding the difference.  Maybe I should carry a measuring tape everywhere I wheel. ?

the bump i rode over was pretty high, but the asphalt had always been a little cracked with a little bump, but now it cracked completely and was a big bump, but it also tricked you because the ground went down about a few inches before the bump, making it look the same but effectively is about doubled

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Yeah, the Firewheel definitely will give you respect for bumps and potholes due to its weak motor. Even though I hard-wired it to its "hard" or "sport" setting it's still softer than many newer wheels. It's fine under 10mph in most cases but can't climb its way out of deep holes the way a stronger motor will. The good news is that your caution will serve you well when you get a new wheel, at least until you learn to trust it and lose your fear. THEN you're in trouble.

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23 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

THEN you break a leg!  :blink:

 

Sorry... too soon?  :whistling:

Just before that happens I buy this for $800 ?. Cheaper than PT! 

I'd be afraid of flying off the wheel unexpectedly due to a tire jam even at 8-9mph. I guess the wheel slows me down a bit pre-take off because the pedals resist dipping as my weight shifts to my toes before I get launched. ? I'll try to figure out @mrelwood's technique over steep bumps.

Curious how your KS-14C handles deeper bumps/ruts in comparison to the firewheel f260, better or worse given it's a 14" but more powerful? I like the smaller wheel for the practicality in our locality but I sure do value my limbs more. 

Edited by Glitched
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You might want to ask @Rehab1 about his pair first to see what he thinks of them.  The good ones probably take some time to put on.  Still, a little bit of prevention can go a long ways.

I think most people are likely fine without them.  It's just if you're doing a lot of night riding or off-road trips that maybe they might come in handy.  It's difficult to prevent injury during accidents, but if you cover the main areas it hopefully should help. 

I wonder though if they might get in the way of your calves contacting the wheel. 

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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15 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I was able to use an advanced imaging software to provide you this detailed hi-res 3D illustration on the various motions that are going on in the situation:

Yep, that's what I'm doing, too, with obstacles/starts of an incline. Brake a little, bend your knees a bit, absorb the bump with your knees, then straighten up. This let's the wheel jump up the obstacle with much less weight on it, and then it supports you straigthening (lifting your weight). So you temporally separate the two power demanding maneuvers.

Edited by meepmeepmayer
Always one §&/$/ typo!
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7 hours ago, Keith said:

@Lamin, welcome to the forum, and may I say that, as a first post, your above post is absolutely excellent ?

i have to confess that walls did work for me, mainly because it rained for three days after I got mine so I was stuck indoors and I got impatient. Having someone walk or run alongside you supporting you as you did with, obviously a very supportive wife ( in both meanings of the word ?) is however definitely considered the best way to get started.

Thank you @Keith ?

I guess that the most important thing to learn is to actually practice riding, in any way you can!! During the first week there was many days it felt impossible to learn riding and EUC.

I wrote the post quite late, and now found more spelling errors. Is it possible for me to edit those?

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49 minutes ago, Lamin said:

I wrote the post quite late, and now found more spelling errors. Is it possible for me to edit those?

I shouldn’t worry about the very few spelling mistakes, they do not detract from the post at all.

The ability to edit, and how long after the post is made you can edit, gets turned on as your reputation and number of posts increase.  Once you can,  you will see an edit link at the bottom of the post.

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Speaking of, my technique of climbing curbs is similar to this, that is, without much of the crouching or jumping in advance:

Climbing curbs is in my books definitely one of the surprisingly challenging riding skills.

Edited by Mono
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39 minutes ago, Mono said:

Climbing curbs is in my books definitely one of the surprisingly challenging riding skills.

Perhaps because:

39 minutes ago, Mono said:

my technique of climbing curbs is similar to this, that is, without much of the crouching or jumping in advance

:D

 

(My video is mostly aimed for riders who have challenges with curbs. My way is the only way I can do it, so perhaps it can help someone else as well.)

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