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2.0 firmware for KS-18L/XL is available

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Ks app worked for me. You have to be at proper mileage and make sure to scroll down to 'warp' settings. Probably have to be logged in as well. After i reached the first speed increase, I am STILL way past content. Even from a wheel with ZERO miles, it doesnt take long at all.

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20 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Ks app worked for me. You have to be at proper mileage and make sure to scroll down to 'warp' settings. Probably have to be logged in as well. After i reached the first speed increase, I am STILL way past content. Even from a wheel with ZERO miles, it doesnt take long at all.

Cool. Thanks again!

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3 hours ago, Paul2579 said:

 Maybe I need to get some better tape...

:roflmao:

There's a reason I said black duct tape. ;) (powertape, actually, as it's thicker)

3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I thought the same. Mine must be first batch, as I just had simple pressure sensors on bars, when i upgraded trolley. Luckily it works great with no calibrating, but i surely fear it IS just luck and maybe not reliably repeatable, should anything change. Not exactly sure how those sensor work and too lazy to look it up and learn, but experience has shown me that very simple things sometimes need calibrating, as manufacturing tolerances differ, and age takes its toll.

Lucky you! Mine has been a pain in the ass since day 1...I find that recalibrating it (back when it was still an option...[sigh]) would do the trick for about an hour, then it would revert back to it's shenanigans. I eventually disabled it after it thought it was being picked up while leaning against the wall in a café, falling over and nearly landing on an octogenarian's foot :facepalm:

Newer batches use digital sensors; ours use a more primitive pressure sensor, which can be affected by even how tight the screws holding it/the trolley handle in place are. Although I've heard accounts of people with newer batches having issues with the lift sensor too...

3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

a little scared to float the road at 1am, as tis not a good idea to freak out the local farmers with wierd moving lights.

:roflmao:

3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I rode a wet cowpie field today and it really pushed thru with less problem than last week. It is more important to set my REALISTIC speed warning now, as it is much easier to inadvertantly go faster than you realize.

It's noticeable, isn't it? Wise move to set speed warnings! You wouldn't want to end up face-first in a wet cowpie field!

3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I just hope KS keeps it up for us. The lighting may be a small fiasco, perhaps theres a few more bugs to work out, but all in all, Im going to focus on the improvements.

See that, @Unventor? :P

The lights are a fiasco, I know, but focus on the positive, stick some duct tape on the sensor and give this FW a chance! As much as you enjoy your 16X, this brings them much closer...If you can overlook the lights issues (which will hopefully be fixed soon), I think this update will grow on you :)

2 hours ago, NYCeuc123 said:

@Mrelwood and @ShanesPlanet:  You guys make a lot of sense. I think I'll just chill for now and I can always upgrade later. Thanks for the help.

FWIW, I've been riding my 18XL for almost a year and have absolutely loved it! The only times I've ever wished for more power were on ridiculously steep mountain climbs. But now, my inner child is brimming with joy and I'd be hard pressed to find anything this wheel couldn't tackle :D

So as a new rider, a "luxury performance wheel" like the legacy 18XL with FW 1.13 is already an exceptional wheel; but now you get an upgrade for free, which is pretty much the equivalent of adding a twin-turbo to it ;)

Put some miles on it, I doubt you'll find yourself wanting for more (and if you do, I doubt the extra 200W will satisfy your lust for speed and you'll be better off buying a Gotway) ;)

Edited by travsformation

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17 minutes ago, travsformation said:

FWIW, I've been riding my 18XL for almost a year and have absolutely loved it! The only times I've ever wished for more power were on ridiculously steep mountain climbs. But now, my inner child is brimming with joy and I'd be hard pressed to find anything this wheel couldn't tackle :D

So as a new rider, a "luxury performance wheel" like the legacy 18XL with FW 1.13 is already an exceptional wheel; but now you get an upgrade for free, which is pretty much the equivalent of adding a twin-turbo to it ;)

Put some miles on it, I doubt you'll find yourself wanting for more (and if you do, I doubt the extra 200W will satisfy your lust for speed and you'll be better off buying a Gotway) ;)

You're right about the twin-turbo...

After I updated to 2.0, the unit became possessed and started screaming "PLEASE DECELERATE! PLEASE DECELERATE!" and started trying to run me over!

It made a huge black streak on my wooden floor and had the place smelling like burning rubber for half an hour! :furious:

I'm lucky I survived. I'm scared to turn it back on...

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6 minutes ago, NYCeuc123 said:

You're right about the twin-turbo...

After I updated to 2.0, the unit became possessed and started screaming "PLEASE DECELERATE! PLEASE DECELERATE!" and started trying to run me over!

It made a huge black streak on my wooden floor and had the place smelling like burning rubber for half an hour! :furious:

I'm lucky I survived. I'm scared to turn it back on...

Are you telling me you managed to reach top speed inside your house? :roflmao:

But now on a serious note...could you elaborate on the exact circumstances of how that happened? Were you mounted on the wheel? Did you calibrate it after updating? Was the wheel on a stand or slightly above the ground (for some reason) when this happened?

Edited by travsformation

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Just now, travsformation said:

Are you telling me you managed to reach top speed inside your house? :roflmao:

But now on a serious note...could you elaborate on the exact circumstances of how that happened? Were you mounted on the wheel? Did you calibrate it after riding? Was the wheel on a stand or slightly above the ground (for some reason)

Thankfully I was not on it. I was just holding it with the handle extended in one hand, and looking at the Kingsong app in the other hand and it just went crazy like a dog on a leash.

I did not calibrate it after upgrading, so maybe that's why it was mad at me...

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22 minutes ago, NYCeuc123 said:

Thankfully I was not on it. I was just holding it with the handle extended in one hand, and looking at the Kingsong app in the other hand and it just went crazy like a dog on a leash.

I did not calibrate it after upgrading, so maybe that's why it was mad at me...

It's unlikely that would have happened if you'd been on the wheel ;)

I'm guessing it had to do with calibration: maybe due to lack of calibration, the angle you were holding it at was registered by the wheel as forward = acceleration, so it tried to accelerate, and when you held onto the handle to prevent it from moving forward, that and the smooth wooden floor caused wheel slippage, so it went into full-on free-wheel-spin, the same as if you deactivate the lift sensor and lift the wheel in the air. Must have been scary...gives you a degree of respect for how powerful this beast actually is, doesn't it? And to think that a few posts back you were asking about upgrading the motor power... ;)

Before calibrating, make sure the wheel isn't going to go nuts on you again. Find a safe place to do this. Lean the wheel against the wall and hold the handle tightly (without lifting) while you switch on the wheel (don't extend the handle). If it tries to run away, either switch it off quickly, or pick it up: if the lift sensor does its job, it'll beep and quit spinning; if not, hold it off the ground while it has its tantrum, until it switches itself off. Do not let it touch the ground while the wheel is spinning like crazy.

Once you've established it's not going to try to kill you, you can proceed with calibration. When you click on "calibrate" from the app, the wheel should switch off, or beep, and then you switch it off (I can't remember which). At this point, make sure your wheel is perfectly level, both front to back and side to side (putting it on a stand, a brick under each pedal, etc., is an option). You can use a bubble level app on your phone if you don't have an actual two-way bubble level. When it's perfectly level, switch the wheel back on, trying not to move it. It'll beep a few times and switch back off. Your wheel is now calibrated. And hopefully, no longer possessed by the devil...

Keep us posted, and be careful! :)

Edited by travsformation

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44 minutes ago, NYCeuc123 said:

You're right about the twin-turbo...

After I updated to 2.0, the unit became possessed and started screaming "PLEASE DECELERATE! PLEASE DECELERATE!" and started trying to run me over!

It made a huge black streak on my wooden floor and had the place smelling like burning rubber for half an hour! :furious:

I'm lucky I survived. I'm scared to turn it back on...

Damn, wish you'd had video, I bet that was awesome to see.. Mines scared me a few times as well, but ive learned to pick it up and just wait, if she free spins. Im usually at fault, not the wheel. That IS scary to hear. Update us and let us know if it was just a fluke, or if had something to do with what travs said. His logic sounds right, but you're the one with a badass black streak. The amount of energy in these batteries and the amount of motor power is MUCH more than we think. I'd bet it more than a stick of dynamite and prolly more raw power than a small motorcycle. Luckily (when working right), the power is limited. Imagine if a short just hit that motor at full tilt. I'd bet it would be a sight to see, until the wires gave under the amperage. Under fw2.0 MY wheel powers itself off once calibration is selected. After you hold it level and turn it back on, it emits about 5 beeps and then turns itself off again. Just to be sure, I used a long level, and i think poor calibration on my part, was why i turned much easier one way than the other yesterday. Maybe not, but no matter, its gone now.

Edited by ShanesPlanet

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3 minutes ago, travsformation said:

It's unlikely that would have happened if you'd been on the wheel ;)

I'm guessing it had to do with calibration: maybe due to lack of calibration, the angle you were holding it at was registered by the wheel as forward = acceleration, so it tried to accelerate, and when you held onto the handle to prevent it from moving forward, that and the smooth wooden floor caused wheel slippage, so it went into full-on free-wheel-spin, the same as if you deactivate the lift sensor and lift the wheel in the air. Must have been scary...gives you a degree of respect for how powerful this beast actually is, doesn't it? And to think that a few posts back you were asking about upgrading the motor power... ;)

Before calibrating, make sure the wheel isn't going to go nuts on you again. Find a safe place to do this. Lean the wheel against the wall and hold the handle tightly while you switch on the wheel (don't the handle), just for in case. If it tries to run away, either switch it off quickly, or pick it up: if the lift sensor does its job, it'll beep and quit spinning; if not, hold it off the ground while it has its tantrum, until it switches itself off. Do not let it touch the ground while the wheel is spinning like crazy.

But if the wheel is still and upright when you switch it on, this shouldn't  happen, in which case you can proceed with calibration. When you click on "calibrate" from the app, the wheel should switch off, or beep, and then you switch it off (I can't remember which). At this point, make sure your wheel is perfectly level, both front to back and side to side (putting it on a stand, a brick under each pedal, etc., is an option). You can use a bubble level app on your phone if you don't have an actual two-way bubble level. When it's perfectly level, switch the wheel back on, trying not to move it. It'll beep a few times and switch back off. Your wheel is now calibrated. And hopefully, no longer possessed by the devil...

Keep us posted, and be careful! :)

I did exactly what you said and the wheel is happy now. :D

That bubble level app is a great idea. Thanks for the help! :cheers:

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12 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

Damn, wish you'd had video, I bet that was awesome to see.. Mines scared me a few times as well, but ive learned to pick it up and just wait, if she free spins. Im usually at fault, not the wheel. That IS scary to hear. Update us and let us know if it was just a fluke, or if had something to do with what travs said. His logic sounds right, but you're the one with a badass black streak. The amount of energy in these batteries and the amount of motor power is MUCH more than we think. I'd bet it more than a stick of dynamite and prolly more raw power than a small motorcycle. Luckily (when working right), the power is limited. Imagine if a short just hit that motor at full tilt. I'd bet it would be a sight to see, until the wires gave under the amperage. Under fw2.0 MY wheel powers itself off once calibration is selected. After you hold it level and turn it back on, it emits about 5 beeps and then turns itself off again. Just to be sure, I used a long level, and i think poor calibration on my part, was why i turned much easier one way than the other yesterday. Maybe not, but no matter, its gone now.

Yea. The way this thing was going, the black streak was almost in my shorts instead of the floor...:crying:

I can't hear the beeps because I took apart and unplugged that annoying, every 5 second, nonsense. The company should be named KingBeep instead of KingSong.

I think I'm going to turn off the voice now too. It scares me...

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3 minutes ago, NYCeuc123 said:

I did exactly what you said and the wheel is happy now. :D

That bubble level app is a great idea. Thanks for the help! :cheers:

Glad to hear that!  :thumbup:

Happy wheel, happy rider, and no casualties (except your wooden floor...)

As @ShanesPlanet said, too bad you don't have that on video, it would have been quite the sight to behold! (Unless the media caught hold of it at started scare-mongering with sensationalist headlines like "Electric unicycle with life of its own tries to kill owner" or "PEV on the run: Chinese government to blame?") :roflmao:

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I have successfully upgraded my 18XL from 1.13 to 2.0 and everything went well ....
(for this I used KS android application version 3.1.8 on S6 phone)


- I have 4 different situation of lights settings....I'm happy with the first one (AUTO)
- there is NO red light when charging and wheel it self it's OFF (there is no point to keep it ON while charging)
- calibration was needed after upgrade because pedals where 2 degrees tilted forward
- that high pitch whine sound it's gone, wheel it's silent now, CPU usage dropped considerable when wheel it's just sitting idle against the wall
- I'm very pleased with power delivery when I hit acceleration from slow speeds.....some improvement compared to 1.13
- I sense no speed limitation regarding available power when battery it's near empty (please see video)
  my 3-rd alarm it's on 40kmh and tilt-back at 42kmh

 

Edited by Meserias

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4 minutes ago, Meserias said:

- there is NO red light when charging and wheel it self it's OFF (there is no point to keep it ON while charging)

Cover your light sensor. The red light comes on in the dark. 

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indeed seage, you are true....but in my opinion, I consider this a good security feature and remainder to NOT let your wheel untended or forget it at charge.
so you see it and plug it off from charger while you're not around for extended period.

(but this is how I see it)
 

 

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1 minute ago, Meserias said:

indeed seage, you are true....but in my opinion, I consider this a good security feature and remainder to NOT let your wheel untended or forget it at charge.
so you see it and plug it off from charger while you're not around for extended period.

(but this is how I see it)
 

 

Yeah, I personally dont care. The lights dim. I can see it from the stairs when I look down. And i only charge while I'm awake. Although i'd probably hear an explosion even if i was sleeping. 

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9 hours ago, travsformation said:

See that, @Unventor? :P

The lights are a fiasco, I know, but focus on the positive, stick some duct tape on the sensor and give this FW a chance! As much as you enjoy your 16X, this brings them much closer...If you can overlook the lights issues (which will hopefully be fixed soon), I think this update will grow on you :)

Summer time I don't need lights, but brake light are nice. 

Right now it is pitch dark both morning and afternoon commuting home <=>work.

But that just means my V10f commute backup are doing its job now. 

One wheel/EUC will NEVER rule them all. So I am pretty happy that I have a selection now to choose from. 

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58 minutes ago, Unventor said:

Right now it is pitch dark both morning and afternoon commuting home <=>work.

Put some duct tape over the sensor ;)

59 minutes ago, Unventor said:

But that just means my V10f commute backup are doing its job now. 

Good that you have a selection of wheel to choose from :)

1 hour ago, Unventor said:

One wheel/EUC will NEVER rule them all. So I am pretty happy that I have a selection now to choose from

:thumbup:

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16 hours ago, Unventor said:

So I did a 12km ride. My usual (more or less) shopping ride from work to shop to home. I think I need to redo the calibration as it feels a little wavy in the ride. This is felt the most when turning at low speeds. I think this can be down to poor calibration. 

Sounds like poor calibration. My wheel is super solid with the 2.00 FW. But I had the same problem as you last time I calibrated. I did it with the wheel leaning against a wall. But I learned that the wheel doesn't spinn in calibration mode. So next time I put my wheel on my EUC Army stand. After the next calibration it was perfect.

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Couple more observations after riding more. The wheel does tilt up while turning hard instead of tilting down (like in v1.XX). Yesterday while "cruising" (not hotdogging whatsoever) home, I kept hearing the overlean beeps when I was barely accelerating :confused1:. I was at 75% battery. The wheel was also pulsating at higher speeds, not uncomfortably so but noticable. I ended up restarting my wheel and had no further issues. I'm at 50% now and will see what happens at lower battery levels.

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I finally joined the crew and updated. 

TL;DR: it's amazing. 

Motor is WAY quieter, wheel feels very responsive and smooth, and I accidentally hit 30.6 mph on my commute into work today. What people have been saying is absolutely correct: this update makes it SIGNIFICANTLY easier to go fast, so keep an eye on your speed when riding in the manner you used to pre-update. 

Additionally, my battery life seems to be a lot better now. Anyone else noticing this?

I recently swapped out my shell to the new, stronger one since my old one was destroyed from jumping stairs, but I left the original motor. I am really enjoying the wheel now and wondering if upgrading the motor at all is necessary. If the 2200 watt gives me a little more wiggle-room at high speed, I will definitely consider it. 

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3 hours ago, D3m0nzz said:



I recently swapped out my shell to the new, stronger one since my old one was destroyed from jumping stairs, but I left the original motor. I am really enjoying the wheel now and wondering if upgrading the motor at all is necessary. If the 2200 watt gives me a little more wiggle-room at high speed, I will definitely consider it. 

I would suspect the motor increase would only improve safety margins IF the circuit or battery isnt the current limiting factor during increased power needs?  Does the amperage capacity of the circuit have plenty of headroom, so  the motor is what's limiting accelleration?

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Every time I see these announcements I get excited...until I realize they don't apply to my little KS18AY+. 😭

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8 hours ago, Jens Ronnedal said:

Sounds like poor calibration. My wheel is super solid with the 2.00 FW. But I had the same problem as you last time I calibrated. I did it with the wheel leaning against a wall. But I learned that the wheel doesn't spinn in calibration mode. So next time I put my wheel on my EUC Army stand. After the next calibration it was perfect.

I spect as much that is why I wrote as I did. So others could see I expect a new calibration fix ride sensation. 

As for lights and lift sensor issues, I do expect a follow up fw 2.01 coming soon.

The sad part I don't know if KS get any of the feedback here anymore. I think we lost all previously affiliated with KS that followed the forum. 

I hope for a new fw before Chinese New year (forgot the dates but it is a long holiday period). I guess we shall see. 

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3 hours ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I would suspect the motor increase would only improve safety margins IF the circuit or battery isnt the current limiting factor during increased power needs?  Does the amperage capacity of the circuit have plenty of headroom, so  the motor is what's limiting accelleration?

If the motor works in same regard as KS16X more watts is not translating to more speed. It is directed towards more torque. I personally think that is why the KS16X had its issues. The motor can handle a higher demand, but battery and first versions of control boards could not comply in all situations. Now please keep in mind I have not tested a KS18L model. So I could very well be wrong. 

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