Jump to content
njay

Soldering XLR to C36 (Lenovo) cable

Recommended Posts

I'm planning to buy a KingSong 16X next month and want to use my Cycle Satiator to charge it.

The problem is that CS has a 3-pin XLR charging output but the 16X has C36 (Lenovo) charging ports. It doesn't look like there's a commercial XLR-C36 cable  so I'm thinking of making my own.

My plan is to solder a XLR cable to this one. The XLR has 3 wires but the C36 end only has two. 

I'm new to soldering, what should I do with the ground wire?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, esaj said:

Scratch the above, the Cycle Satiator can only go up to 60V DC, so it cannot provide enough voltage to charge your wheel. Sorry.

Models

At present, we have designed 3 models of the Satiator charger optimized for different voltage ranges all sharing the same great feature set and firmware. The 48V 8A and 72V 5A models are both in full production, while the 24V 15A model is available for samples from interested OEM parties.

Model Name 2415 4808 7205
Max Voltage 36V 63V 103V
Max Current 15A* 8A* 5A*
Typical Batteries 12-24V 24V-52V 36V-84V

*Current also clamped by 360 watt power limit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, z3n said:

Models

At present, we have designed 3 models of the Satiator charger optimized for different voltage ranges all sharing the same great feature set and firmware. The 48V 8A and 72V 5A models are both in full production, while the 24V 15A model is available for samples from interested OEM parties.

Model Name 2415 4808 7205
Max Voltage 36V 63V 103V
Max Current 15A* 8A* 5A*
Typical Batteries 12-24V 24V-52V 36V-84V

*Current also clamped by 360 watt power limit

Thanks for the heads up, so it needs to be the 7205 to charge the KS 16X (20S = 84V battery pack). Edited my post above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have SS, too, it can charge up to 100V (24s) batteries. It's great to have programmable voltage and current!

OP: just leave the third pin unused, there's no such thing as "ground" in our wheels. I bought an XLR->XT60 adapter from Grin, and made a XT60->GX16-3 myself to charge my GT16. It's not rocket science.

Edited by Aneta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Seba said:

ks_plug_polarity.jpg.1cbcc12e64185630e5e5549b2767d653.jpg

Wait. WHAT?!?! They put +84V on exposed outer metal part?! (on laptops and in the world of common sense, exposed part is always 0/GND)

If yes, I'll take on yoga classes to be able to bring my feet to my face for a double facefoot, as double facepalm is not enough.

9f2dcfe91217de5273fbfb102766fbd27512f367

Edited by Aneta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Aneta said:

Wait. WHAT?!?! They put +84V on exposed outer metal part?! (on laptops and in the world of common sense, exposed part is always 0/GND)

This is not a problem because there is full galvanical separation between primary (AC) and secondary (DC) side. Especially, negative (-) is not grounded. And it's not uncommon to have a positive terminal on exposed metal part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Seba said:

This is not a problem because there is full galvanical separation between primary (AC) and secondary (DC) side. Especially, negative (-) is not grounded. And it's not uncommon to have a positive terminal on exposed metal part.

Wouldn't it spark if it touched something grounded?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Aneta said:

Wouldn't it spark if it touched something grounded?

As long as neither terminal is grounded, connecting any of it with ground won't close the circuit so no current will flow. This is similar to IT ("isolee-terre") network system. Whatever terminal you'll touch, you're safe in normal operating conditions (excluding leakages).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Seba said:

As long as neither terminal is grounded, connecting any of it with ground won't close the circuit so no current will flow. This is similar to IT ("isolee-terre") network system. Whatever terminal you'll touch, you're safe in normal operating conditions (excluding leakages).

I see now. You're absolutely correct. Voltages are relative, so that outer +84 can be considered 0 if we simultaneously consider the inner one as -84. Or 1000084V and 1000000V, only difference matters (unless there's a leak).

But still... a weird choice on KS part. The common sense is to always follow the established polarity of any connector, to avoid any surprises. And if someone plugs 84V into their 20V Lenovo laptop, it's their problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/19/2019 at 8:03 PM, Aneta said:

I see now. You're absolutely correct. Voltages are relative, so that outer +84 can be considered 0 if we simultaneously consider the inner one as -84. Or 1000084V and 1000000V, only difference matters (unless there's a leak).

But still... a weird choice on KS part. The common sense is to always follow the established polarity of any connector, to avoid any surprises. And if someone plugs 84V into their 20V Lenovo laptop, it's their problem.

But the same is with Inmotion V5F - positive terminal is on external part of plug (negative is on pin though).

EDIT: I was wrong. I've just checked - Imotion V5F has "+" terminal on center pin and "-" terminal on inner tab. I don't know why I though that they both have "+" on outer tab.

Edited by Seba

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've decided to crimp instead of solder, unless I'm advised otherwise.

Just to confirm, should I be connecting + to +, - to -, and leave GND untouched?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On 12/20/2019 at 2:41 AM, njay said:

Just to confirm, should I be connecting + to +, - to -, and leave GND untouched?

Look at the photo @Seba provided. KS uses the connector - as + and vice versa. So if there is a small + sign on the connector, you connect the - cable onto that one.

Whatever you decide to do or end up with, I will never connect a 3rd party or modified charger to any wheel before measuring the polarity against the original charger that was provided. Borrow a multimeter if you don’t own one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/19/2019 at 2:08 PM, Seba said:

But the same is with Inmotion V5F - positive terminal is on external part of plug (negative is on pin though).

Good stuff @Seba.

Out of curiosity though, since the positives are the same on InMotion & KS Lenovo plugs and the negative is not grounded, if you used an InMotion wired Lenovo to charge an 84V King Song & vice-versa, would the wheel run into issue? or would nothing happen? Thanks in advance.

Edited by houseofjob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, houseofjob said:
On 12/19/2019 at 8:08 PM, Seba said:

But the same is with Inmotion V5F - positive terminal is on external part of plug (negative is on pin though).

Good stuff @Seba.

Sorry, I was wrong. I've updated my previous post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...