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KS18XL 2200W motor

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On 11/14/2019 at 2:59 AM, Patton250 said:

Well....... I suppose you are assuming I know what ecodrift and google translate is?

Me- “ Can someone please give me an instruction video on how to disassemble this motor and put it back together?”

you-“ You just take it apart and put it back together“

me- “um........thanks I guess “

:facepalm:

its very easy, same basically as a tire change except when you get to 5 mins in the video, remove the pedal hangars from the old motor and install them on the new motor, then continue with the video putting it back together

 

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1 hour ago, Flyboy10 said:

@Patton250 if you still need help, I can make a video of replacing the main board and the motor as I will be doing this next week. I'll probably be using the Russian video as a guide.

Brother that would be awesome. I’m mostly looking for how to get the shell open, what wires to unplug, how to plug them back in and any safety considerations. Thank you so much.

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16 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

Brother that would be awesome. I’m mostly looking for how to get the shell open, what wires to unplug, how to plug them back in and any safety considerations. Thank you so much.

is this going to be the first wheel that youve disassembled?

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6 minutes ago, Rywokast said:

is this going to be the first wheel that youve disassembled?

Nope. My second. I chanced a tire on my Nik+

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1 hour ago, Patton250 said:

Nope. My second. I chanced a tire on my Nik+

oh ok, nikola is harder

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9 minutes ago, Rywokast said:

oh ok, nikola is harder

I was pretty proud of myself for getting that done but then when I rewired it because I’m colorblind I messed up. Thank God for our friend @Marty Backe for helping me get the wiring right. He saved the day. Also I ruined the inner tube when changing it but I know what I did wrong and I doubt I’ll make that mistake again.

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19 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

I was pretty proud of myself for getting that done but then when I rewired it because I’m colorblind I messed up. Thank God for our friend @Marty Backe for helping me get the wiring right. He saved the day. Also I ruined the inner tube when changing it but I know what I did wrong and I doubt I’ll make that mistake again.

oh damn, well thats good you got it sorted,, for next time im sure youll know just to label the wires but actually for ks wheels you only need to unplug the side LEDs one cable each can only go in one place, and the motor cable, big, obvious, and again only one place it can go.. no possible way to switch wires around on a KS you dont need to unplug batteries or board anything like that.. and yea i ruined my tube on the first tire change i ever did too... naturally, i didnt realise that until i reassembled the whole thing and rode it lol.... on the ten or more since i have never made another mistake its pretty easy after the first time doing it when you know wtf youre doing.. and KS pedal hangers are a cinch you just take out the two screws coming down from the top and separate the top and bottom half

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7 minutes ago, Rywokast said:

oh damn, well thats good you got it sorted,, for next time im sure youll know just to label the wires but actually for ks wheels you only need to unplug the side LEDs one cable each can only go in one place, and the motor cable, big, obvious, and again only one place it can go.. no possible way to switch wires around on a KS you dont need to unplug batteries or board anything like that.. and yea i ruined my tube on the first tire change i ever did too... naturally, i didnt realise that until i reassembled the whole thing and rode it lol.... on the ten or more since i have never made another mistake its pretty easy after the first time doing it when you know wtf youre doing.. and KS pedal hangers are a cinch you just take out the two screws coming down from the top and separate the top and bottom half

I think I’ll be able to handle it. My biggest concern is time. I don’t really have much time.

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1 hour ago, Patton250 said:

I think I’ll be able to handle it. My biggest concern is time. I don’t really have much time.

aah, its tedious for sure give yourself at least a couple hours

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4 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

Well I just change the motor on my KS18XL

So you just have to switch the motor, no new control board needed for the new motor @Jason McNeil?

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22 minutes ago, RoadRunner said:

So you just have to switch the motor, no new control board needed for the new motor @Jason McNeil?

Just a straight change out.

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1 minute ago, Patton250 said:

Just a straight change out.

Did you go for a test ride already?

How is it? 

:dribble:

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12 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

I sure did. Much quicker and a whole bunch quieter. In fact it’s silent. The fastest I brought it up to is 28 mph though. It’s dark here. I’ll try again tomorrow. I’m charging it up now.

Do you feel like the upgrade is worth the money?

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57 minutes ago, Jonesq said:

Do you feel like the upgrade is worth the money?

Absolutely. I think it was only $150.

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Sweet! I'll be doing the upgrade soon as well so it's reassuring to hear your assessment. KS advertises it as 40% more torque. What percentage increase do you feel on it?

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7 hours ago, Patton250 said:

Well I just change the motor on my KS18XL. It was pretty easy actually. Much easier than removing the motor from my Nikola Plus. Couple of stupid things like removing the pads damages  them pretty good. Also the hardware is so cheap on these things. The screws stripped pretty easy so you’re not going to get many changes with them. Why don’t these wheel companies just charge us a little more per wheel and give us quality hardware? Do they really not expect us to fix tires and repair the things? I just don’t understand. Anyway thanks for everyone’s encouragement and help. I love this forum. 

nicee, i just finished mine today also but the battery was dead so its on charge now, cant wait to test it tonight.. put on a new tire/tube and pedals while i was at it and cleaned everything inside and out

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8 hours ago, Patton250 said:

The screws stripped pretty easy so you’re not going to get many changes with them. Why don’t these wheel companies just charge us a little more per wheel and give us quality hardware? Do they really not expect us to fix tires and repair the things? I just don’t understand.

Fully agree, I have exchanged all housing and motor screws for stainless steel Allen screws., 

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7 minutes ago, buell47 said:

Fully agree, I have exchanged all housing and motor screws for stainless steel Allen screws., 

ive always appreciated how little things like that inmotion does best.. quality hardware, proper seals, compartmentalization.. if i was to ever take it apart again i would do that, do you mind if i ask the size of the screws? its already all back together and i would like to order some for a few wheels from ali to have on hand, from my observation KS uses the same size screws across all of their EUCs which makes sense

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17 minutes ago, buell47 said:

I have the 16X, not the 18XL. I don't know if that can help you? 

16X housing = M3 x 8 (Flanged Button Head) 

16X motor = M6 X 16 (Flanged Button Head)

20191124-095920.jpg

 

thanks very much, i would bet money on them being the same they appear identical to my 16S and 18XL, however both of them lack the flanges on the screw heads for the motor and instead opt for a spiked washer (dont know the name, hate them)

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hmm, either my hearing is just really good or I got an old motor lol but I checked the code.. mine still produces a very loud high pitched noise at all times.. the torque does feel better though, it's no 16" but definitely better than it was especially from a stand still

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1 hour ago, Rywokast said:

however both of them lack the flanges on the screw heads for the motor and instead opt for a spiked washer (dont know the name, hate them)

I wasn't sure if the screws were suitable for plastic. I can imagine that when tightening the screws the plastic will be rubbed off and can't tighten enough because of the resistance. So I took these and Loctite medium strong. 

 

24 minutes ago, Rywokast said:

hmm, either my hearing is just really good or I got an old motor lol but I checked the code.. mine still produces a very loud high pitched noise at all times.. the torque does feel better though, it's no 16" but definitely better than it was especially from a stand still

I was expecting that. Wasn't it the case that the 16X prototype with the new 2200W was even louder at first and only became silent later by changing the firmware? 

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34 minutes ago, buell47 said:

I wasn't sure if the screws were suitable for plastic. I can imagine that when tightening the screws the plastic will be rubbed off and can't tighten enough because of the resistance. So I took these and Loctite medium strong. 

 

I was expecting that. Wasn't it the case that the 16X prototype with the new 2200W was even louder at first and only became silent later by changing the firmware? 

I'd imagine it would be perfectly fine, after all I believe those spiked things are exclusive to KS wheels, but better safe than sorry.. I have no idea about the 16X, however I never did a firmware update for the new motor which was surprising.. I wonder if they will put one out.. there is nothing available right now to update 

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