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MSX buzzer or light upgrade. Anyone done this?


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My 100v MSX buzzer is too quiet. Has anyone upgraded there's? If so, links from where purchased and any pictures would be nice. The one I currently have is HND-3015A DC3-24v. I think it registers 90dBs. Or could I possibly double up for more oomphf?

Edited by Flyboy10
Added light mod
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I moved the buzzer on my 84V MSX to underneath the power button in hopes to hear it better. But I damaged the buzzer a bit while doing so, and either the buzzer itself is now less loud or the moving didn’t have a positive effect on the sound level.

I’m as well interested in learning if there is another solution to the issue.

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To maximize the sound level of the buzzer, it must be attached to the shield to make it resonate.

I moved the buzzer of my MS3 and MSX (add of battery) by cutting the support and tights in the top of the shield (next to the trolley). I haven't lost sound power, I hear it a little better, but the gain is not huge.

Edited by Hansolo
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It seems to me that the best way to make the buzzer easier to hear is to move it closer to one of the vents. I'm thinking up by the fan if you get a similar sized buzzer. Wouldn't that be right near the front vent holes? I'm sure it could be mounted with some 3M double sided tape and tucked behind the wiring.

maxresdefault.jpg

MSX image credit to @eddiemoy

Replacement buzzers that match exactly are available on Amazon - HND-3015A DC3-24v- 2 pack $3.07 and they use about 20 ma of power.

These are a similar size rated at 95 db Goliton 5PC/Lot 95DB Alarm High-Decibel  $6.95 for a 5 pack and they use 30 ma of power. It might be louder if it utilized more current. But otherwise could be the same volume.

418K-JLJ1jL.jpg

Or you could go with something completely different. This is rated at 100 db but with the same voltage requirements. It's a little larger, but waterproof and might give you the volume you need. Universal 10-24V 100dB Waterproof Back-Up Alarm - $11.49 It's made to serve as a backup alarm for trucks. The bracket might have to be modified to fit correctly, but it definitely looks heavy duty. The size is listed as: 2.4 x 1.7 x 2.7 inches, so I'm not sure if it will fit...

61sTHqJgNTL._SL1500_.jpg

At the risk of bombarding you with options to the point that you just don't care any more, you could also put something in place that would vibrate instead of making a noise. Now, it's true that since you're riding a moving vehicle over rough pavement at high speed, it's unlikely that a little haptic feedback is going to do the trick, but this might:

Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker $18.44

This is basically a small speaker that can be put into stereo systems or mounted onto chairs for that 4D experience. The size, 2.8 x 2.8 x 1 inches is thinner and smaller than the Back-up alarm above.

71oNYHLw5xL._SL1500_.jpg

The only thing I don't know is if the Gotway electronics will have the power output to really make it vibrate to the degree you'll need. But hey, that's what Amazon's return policy is for.

Whatever you do, it's worth the effort to make sure you're notified prior to any motor cut out. Ride safe.

:eff034a94a:

 

 

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There was a post either on the forums or on facebook (can't seem to find it) where a rider spliced in a second buzzer to place on the opposite side (might've also re-positioned the buzzer atop the batteries as well). They claimed it was a significant improvement.

Either way, from my knowledge of acoustics and live sound technique, sound outdoors is heavily directional and influenced by air/wind, so the optimal location for the buzzers is as high as possible, and in front, aimed at your ears. But even doing all this, it doesn't hold a candle to setting up custom alarms in wheellog with your phone connected to a bluetooth speaker.

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Maybe instead of making the buzzer louder (which in the city at 40km/h+ speeds with full face helmet will not help much due to the wind noise) is to use Wheellog + Pebble and set the vibration alarm for 45 km/h and 120A current? I use such setup on daily basis and it works great.

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5 minutes ago, Flyboy10 said:

Has anyone modded the head light to make it brighter? Or the side lights?

I modified the headlight mainly to achieve a wider beam of light, since I couldn’t see a deer before it jumped right in front of me from complete darkness. I replaced the LED and was able to position it in the lens to get I what I wanted.

The headlight has since suffered a bit so I’m replacing both the LED and the lens with ones from a similiar looking bicycle light I was able to find for $15.

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On 10/21/2019 at 7:47 AM, Flyboy10 said:

Thanks guys. I might just double up for now. Has anyone modded the head light to make it brighter? Or the side lights?

I preferred to add an external light. This one (5 Volt) is powered by the USB port of the wheel and is mounted with Velcro, for quick removal.

Phare.jpg

 

( ... but I had to design a support, gopro style, and print it in 3D...)

 

 

 

Edited by FULspeed
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8 hours ago, Matthieu Thegrey said:

Be careful with that. I know a guy who has burned his motherboard by charging his phone. Apparently it drawed too much current. Could happen with usb light as it takes quite a lot of juice.

I had heard of such cases, but I've already used it all the past winter without any problems, so I think it may depend (as usual) on some problem of a specific (and unlucky) motherboard...

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 10/18/2019 at 1:43 PM, ZenRyder said:

maxresdefault.jpg

MSX image credit to @eddiemoy

vibrate instead of making a noise. Now, it's true that since you're riding a moving vehicle over rough pavement at high speed, it's unlikely that a little haptic feedback is going to do the trick, but this might:

Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker $18.44

This is basically a small speaker that can be put into stereo systems or mounted onto chairs for that 4D experience. The size, 2.8 x 2.8 x 1 inches is thinner and smaller than the Back-up alarm above.

71oNYHLw5xL._SL1500_.jpg

The only thing I don't know is if the Gotway electronics will have the power output to really make it vibrate to the degree you'll need. But hey, that's what Amazon's return policy is for.

Whatever you do, it's worth the effort to make sure you're notified prior to any motor cut out. Ride safe.

:eff034a94a:

 

 

I have just purchased the Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker and I will be attempted to share the power source used by the beeper to also vibrate when hitting 80% alarms.

 

I'll write up a post if I am successful because I have already had 2 cutoffs due to not hearing the beeps. I am a young lad with proper hearing, but I wear motorcycle helmets and if I'm not hunched over, I  just hear the whistle of the wind. 

 

I saw louder beeper mods, but I already hate the beeps on this thing. Hopefully this vibration mod will become standard for all fastbois like myself

Edited by Declan acoustic-unicyclist
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BNYZWOT Continuous Beep Alarm Electronic Piezo Buzzer Sounder DC 3-24V 85DB 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VT6577Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_28Q1DbB6HYSSK

I used this buzzer on my MSX. I drilled a hole in the side cover to mount. It sounds the same as the original buzzer yet many times louder. I can clearly hear it with ski mask and full helmet while riding 30mph. The downside is that everyone that I ride with tend to think that their wheel is beeping when it is just mine.

I still like the bass of the KingSong “Please decelerate” better. 

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20 minutes ago, Planemo said:

So it looks like it is designed to be mounted into a large hole - did you drill this hole straight through the side cover? So the so the alarm is not covered at all?

Yes. The original buzzer is located on the right side behind your leg. Given the available space on the left side, I moved it to the left side, in front of your leg and above the pedal when folded up. I was thinking of switching to Nicola pedals and hope I mounted high enough to miss the bigger pedals.

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My Nikola pedals arrived today although I am still waiting on the wheel, should be here soon. I think I might do this buzzer mod, my only concern is whether the buzzer could be affected by water given it is now exposed. I appreciate it's not 'in the line of fire' but I still need to be able to wash the wheel at least! Hopefully it will be OK. I assume you disconnected the original buzzer? 

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36 minutes ago, Planemo said:

I assume you disconnected the original buzzer? 

Yes, The old buzzer has been removed and is in the dreaded used electronics box with things that should be thrown away  .... but if I do I will need them. :angry:  

I believe the buzzer is water resistant. I have seen the same buzzer style used on commercial lawn mowers, truck lift gates and back up warnings. You can seal the buzzer to the hole in the cover and water should not get in. ( gaskets or silicone) The wheel cover isn’t really sealed anyway. 

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Yeah I knew the sealing to the cover would be no problem but I was a bit worried about the buzzer itself. By the sounds of it it will be OK though. Cheers, I might give this a go if I don't feel confident with my Pebble vibrate, although it has been OK with the Z I am a bit more concerned with the MSX as things will be happening a bit faster :ph34r:

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20 hours ago, Declan acoustic-unicyclist said:

I have just purchased the Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker and I will be attempted to share the power source used by the beeper to also vibrate when hitting 80% alarms.

You might have a problem connecting the shaker. To my understanding the shaker is just a passive speaker, which requires an amplifier to feed AC current at a suitable frequency. Many if not most beeper units operate on plain DC. If my suspicion is correct, once you connect the shaker in parallel on in place of the buzzer, the shaker will just make a small nudge when the beeping starts and stops.

OTOH, if the beeper actually already operates on AC, the frequency is usually around 4000Hz, which still wouldn’t move a bass shaker at all.

You would need a tiny but powerful 5V amplifier and a low frequency sinewave generator for the shaker to actually shake.

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On 11/22/2019 at 6:07 AM, mrelwood said:

You might have a problem connecting the shaker. To my understanding the shaker is just a passive speaker, which requires an amplifier to feed AC current at a suitable frequency. Many if not most beeper units operate on plain DC. If my suspicion is correct, once you connect the shaker in parallel on in place of the buzzer, the shaker will just make a small nudge when the beeping starts and stops.

OTOH, if the beeper actually already operates on AC, the frequency is usually around 4000Hz, which still wouldn’t move a bass shaker at all.

You would need a tiny but powerful 5V amplifier and a low frequency sinewave generator for the shaker to actually shake.

This is a worthwhile concern. My hope is that it would buzz at the same frequency as the beeper, thus: buzz-buzz-buzz-buzz-buzz for 80%

Perhaps a 5V DC - AC converter is possible. I'd be willing to pursue it. Oh well, I'll update after trying. (the part still hasn't shipped yet)

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8 hours ago, Declan acoustic-unicyclist said:

This is a worthwhile concern. My hope is that it would buzz at the same frequency as the beeper, thus: buzz-buzz-buzz-buzz-buzz for 80%

Even if it did, I don’t think a 4000Hz shake would be felt very much... A tuning fork vibrates at 440Hz and already it’s ”shake” can barely be felt even with bare fingers.

But I’m hoping that the shaker is sensitive enough that a nudge every time the beep starts and stops would move the thing enough to be felt.

Edited by mrelwood
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  • 1 month later...
On 11/21/2019 at 9:18 AM, Declan acoustic-unicyclist said:

I have just purchased the Dayton Audio TT25-8 Puck Tactile Transducer Mini Bass Shaker and I will be attempted to share the power source used by the beeper to also vibrate when hitting 80% alarms.

I just wanted to hop back in here and say that while this mod was unsuccessful. I was able to trigger the beeper + vibrations at the same time, but from the single bass speaker, they are uninspiring. When sharing the electrical source, the beeper is much, much quieter. (basically inaudible) and the buzzer vibrates briefly but not nearly enough to grab any attention.

 

I have instead opted to relocate my buzzer up, near the handle, as this will likely be easier to hear while riding. I may drill a hole to amplify the sound even further. 

 

This solution is unsatisfying; however, at least I can return the buzzer for free!

 

Pic shows the beeper location (above the battery) and the buzzer connected for testing.

 

No soldering required!!! I merely twisted the copper wire together and used liquid electrical tape + regular electrical tape

msx beeper.jpg

Edited by Declan acoustic-unicyclist
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