EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 (edited) Since your screw was already hard to get out, I suspect that the bolt is stuck due to oxidation. Put the wheel upright and spray WD40 (if you have nothing better) into the pedal hole so that it cannot run out again. Let it sit for a few minutes, then do the same from the other side. Make sure that your tool is thin enough to knock it out, because on the other side of the pedal there is only a smaller hole further inside. Support the pedal on a wooden block so that the force of the hammer does not affect the pedal arm too much. To prevent this from happening again you should at least grease the bolt when assembling the pedal. I use ceramic spray for brakes. Edited March 29, 2020 by buell47 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 7 minutes ago, buell47 said: Make sure that your tool is thin enough to knock it out, For example, what did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 I removed this bolt right after I bought the wheel and sprayed it with ceramic spray, because I know how these two materials behave when they come into contact with water. I just take a 4mm steel rod and a tiny hammer and after a hit the bolt will fly out. I'm not sure, but the hole is maybe just 5-6mm. If your tool is to big, you just hammer on the pedal and not on the bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 22 hours ago, buell47 said: maybe just 5-6mm. Okay, yes, I understand now. Got a long, small diameter phillips in there and with some effort and more WD it finally punched out. However, the other side will NOT budge out, though it has gone maybe halfway. Resting, filling with WD alternating either side, coming back every 15 mins to 1/2 hour (so easy in this COVID lockdown!) to try again, flip it over, fill the other side with WD, wait hammer some more - it is NOT coming out and now I worry that if it DOES eventually come out I'll never get it back in! Do you think it's possible to change the motherboard entering from one side only?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 On 3/26/2020 at 8:15 PM, CampDylan said: Okay, started on the left side, removed the small/short screw with the 5mm allen which took a lot of effort, back & forth, WD40. In the video it shows that the rod comes out the same side, the right side. I've tried hammering it out from the left side using various tools; ie the same allen wrench, a flathead, an empty driver tube, etc. It doesn't want to budge and I'm afraid I'm going to jack it up. Could it be that it's bent in there from all the crashes? Please advise, thank you! Covid be damned. Yes, the rod on the KingSong wheels always comes out from the side of the Set Screw (or Grub Screw). I've never had a problem removing a pedal rod unless that pedal was damaged. In that case I had to cut the pedal off with an angle grinder. If you can''t see that the pedal is damaged, you really should be able to remove it. Just be sure you really are pounding on the correct side and that whatever tool you are using is smaller than the hole in the pedal. If it wasn't obvious to you, the hole on that side of the pedal is tapered and therefore smaller than the hole that has the Set Screw. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 8 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: always comes out from the side of the Set Screw Yup, got that down and one side came out with a lot of effort this way. The other side however, though it has moved some, doesn't want to budge all the way. Yes, lol, the pedals are VERY banged up and I have indeed attributed this situation to those blows. What do you think of the possibility of changing the controller/motherboard from one side only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Just now, CampDylan said: Yup, got that down and one side came out with a lot of effort this way. The other side however, though it has moved some, doesn't want to budge all the way. Yes, lol, the pedals are VERY banged up and I have indeed attributed this situation to those blows. What do you think of the possibility of changing the controller/motherboard from one side only? Impossible. I'm afraid you must remove both sides. It's an ugly process and you'll need to buy another pedal and rod, but it's the only way. You're not the first (or me) that have had to cut a pedal off. See some of the fun I had doing it, in this video. I've paused it at where I'm doing the pedal work 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 41 minutes ago, CampDylan said: Yup, got that down and one side came out with a lot of effort this way. The other side however, though it has moved some, doesn't want to budge all the way. Yes, lol, the pedals are VERY banged up and I have indeed attributed this situation to those blows. What do you think of the possibility of changing the controller/motherboard from one side only? Before I would completely destroy the pedal by cutting it, I would try to heat the pedal with a torch. Be careful not to burn your casing. Remove everything from the pedal before, so that only metal remains. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toshio Uemura Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Marty Backe said: Impossible. I'm afraid you must remove both sides. It's an ugly process and you'll need to buy another pedal and rod, but it's the only way. You're not the first (or me) that have had to cut a pedal off. See some of the fun I had doing it, in this video. I've paused it at where I'm doing the pedal work It’s the Rolls-Royce among the EUCs. Looks really great 👍 what’s that blue stand you are using there? Is that self made too? Or can I buy it somewhere? Edited March 28, 2020 by Toshio Uemura 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 44 minutes ago, buell47 said: heat the pedal with a torch I mean, my pedal is no where near as bent as Marty's so i'm going to leave it soaking in WD overnight again, and I have thought of heating it up, hammering some more, cooling, repeat. Will update... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) WD40 is a good all-round spray, but not exactly the professional when it comes to solving such problems. I might consider another Spray with a higher creeping effect and better corrosion solving properties. Do you have a hammer drill? If so, take an old drill/chisel and work the tip so that it is flat and fits through the hole. A lot of small blows will solve the problem better than a few big blows with a hammer. I hope you understand what I mean? 😅 Good luck. Edited March 28, 2020 by buell47 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 28, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 28, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Toshio Uemura said: what’s that blue stand you are using there? Is that self made too? Or can I buy it somewhere? You can buy it here, print it by yourself or find a 3D print service. You can find those printing files here. Edited March 28, 2020 by buell47 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 On 3/27/2020 at 10:58 PM, buell47 said: I hope you understand what I mean? 😅 Good luck. Big thanks to you guys. Got it sorted out, as far as the pedal jam is concerned that is. Made a miraculous discovery. Here's my letter to Buell47: So I hammered the bent rod pretty straight with little effort by placing into the track of my sliding patio door, rotating to view the gaps. Got it pretty straight from what it was. Had to go run some errands around the city so quickly put the pedals back on and THEN: Whoa, the ride is TOTALLY different, lol - in A GOOD WAY! For awhile the riding characteristics seemed to be waning quite a bit and so I figured it was that motherboard , that's why I had eWheels send me another. I was even getting speed wobbles when braking hard. Those are now totally gone and the whole ride is smooth as silk again, nimbleness /quickness regained! Who knew??!! Don't know if you guys already discovered this, I haven't been on the board in awhile (4K miles since), but I now see how the pedal damage can greatly affect the ride. Makes sense. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted April 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 22, 2020 (edited) Finally reasonable power pads (the upper ones) to get the full torque out. Amazing what such things can get out of the wheel in all situations. Working time: 10 damn hours for 2 sets (4 pieces) Available here! Edited June 16, 2020 by buell47 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 1 hour ago, buell47 said: Finally reasonable power pads (the upper ones) to get the full torque out. Amazing what such things can get out of the wheel in all situations. Where did you get these out how did you make them 😁 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadRunner Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 4 hours ago, buell47 said: Working time: 10 damn hours for 2 sets (4 pieces) And one of these sets are for me Thanks a lot dude. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 4/22/2020 at 10:03 AM, buell47 said: Finally reasonable power pads (the upper ones) to get the full torque out. Amazing what such things can get out of the wheel in all situations. Made from a EPDM foam rubber plate 300 x 200 x 30 mm Used tools and aids: Working time: 10 damn hours for 2 sets (4 pieces) Amazing! Ima have to do something similar to my 18L and keep it low so it goes under an euc cover. Isnt it amazing how a man with some hand tools and some time, can improve upon what a team of individuals haven't? Imagine how easily your pads could be made in mass quantity, in compare to 5hr per set by hand? You didnt show us a picture of the mess! Drill press and cutter....so my first set is going to cost 5-6hrs AND $200 for tools. Atm I have 2 pieces of foam in a strip and scotch tape. 2minutes total, but man o man are yours MUCHO Impressive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Solovjov Posted April 26, 2020 Share Posted April 26, 2020 On 4/22/2020 at 3:03 PM, buell47 said: Finally reasonable power pads I thought it would be nice to sheathe your pads with genuine leather. And I got an idea. You could cover your pads with Plastidip. I do not know, maybe he will dissolve the foam, but suddenly there will be a good result. https://www.amazon.co.uk/PLASTIDIP-PLASTI-PLASTIC-RUBBER-AEROSOL/dp/B06WVLGGQV/ref=pd_sbs_60_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06WVLGGQV&pd_rd_r=2688fc28-8243-4cef-87a9-77ac0773af1a&pd_rd_w=eM2CM&pd_rd_wg=yA6nM&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=TYM4FRA9CX2B4P2BCMSX&psc=1&refRID=TYM4FRA9CX2B4P2BCMSX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted April 26, 2020 Author Share Posted April 26, 2020 52 minutes ago, Victor Solovjov said: I thought it would be nice to sheathe your pads with genuine leather. And I got an idea. You could cover your pads with Plastidip. I do not know, maybe he will dissolve the foam, but suddenly there will be a good result. I am afraid that it will tear, because the foam rubber stretches a bit under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bking Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 On 4/23/2020 at 2:03 AM, buell47 said: Finally reasonable power pads (the upper ones) to get the full torque out. Amazing what such things can get out of the wheel in all situations. Made from a EPDM foam rubber plate 300 x 200 x 30 mm Used tools and aids: Working time: 10 damn hours for 2 sets (4 pieces) Available here! Any chance you could takes pics of your process for making these? They look really professional! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 3 minutes ago, Bking said: Any chance you could takes pics of your process for making these? They look really professional! I don't think so, the process takes hours and the workshop and I are covered with fine EPDM dust, there is simply no space and time for a very long video documentation. A lot of cutting and even more grinding, there is no special secret I want to hide. The tools can be seen above, so everything in DIY style with normal tools. No CNC or laser programming skills are required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Tkatch Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Hi. I would like to purchase a set of pads for the KS18L, I'm unable to message you directly as I have just signed up to the forum. T Thank you Max 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Hi guys, anyone tried sticking road bike handlebar foam on the inside of their seats so it simply "clicks" in place over the 16x trolley handle? I just did and it worked a treat- no falling off even on stair rides! Wished I thought of this earlier! No pics unfortunately. It's super late where I am. Will add later if anyone needs pics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Glen Posted June 2, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted June 2, 2020 @buell47 Thanks man for all the tips about sealing up the dust leaks. I've followed most of it myself and posted a youtube vid showing what I've done. My vids are not monetised so I'm not just trying to make some ¢ here. I just thought I should thank the man who helped me with the idea to do this, and thank you in the place where I got the info. This thread is great, and hopefully my 16X will still be pretty clean inside when/if I need to open it again, hopefully a long time from now. Although I would like to install that switch to my beeper. I still don't understand why it beeps like 5 times when it's done charging. Wakes us up every night. I hope the vid might be a little help to anyone who hasn't opened their 16X before and is maybe a bit trepidatious about attempting it. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davinche Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, Glen said: @buell47 Thanks man for all the tips about sealing up the dust leaks. I've followed most of it myself and posted a youtube vid showing what I've done. My vids are not monetised so I'm not just trying to make some ¢ here. I just thought I should thank the man who helped me with the idea to do this, and thank you in the place where I got the info. This thread is great, and hopefully my 16X will still be pretty clean inside when/if I need to open it again, hopefully a long time from now. Although I would like to install that switch to my beeper. I still don't understand why it beeps like 5 times when it's done charging. Wakes us up every night. I hope the vid might be a little help to anyone who hasn't opened their 16X before and is maybe a bit trepidatious about attempting it. When did you purchase your wheel? I'll be getting a 16x soon so I'm wondering whether or not these mods are necessary for the newest batch haha. Edited June 2, 2020 by davinche 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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