Rehab1 Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 10 hours ago, Jeff Earl said: Tire Pressure Monitoring for the 16X Nice mod Jeff! I love ingenuity! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted October 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 3, 2019 (edited) Since a couple of days I have been worried about extreme annoying booming noises/vibrations when braking hard or accelerating fast. Today I was able to locate the problem. It's the trolley handle that causes the noise and vibration. Additionally I had to find out that the cheap screws were almost falling out. Since a reasonable tightening of these screws is hardly possible, I exchanged them immediately with Allen screws M3 x 10mm and secured them with Loctite. But this does not solve the vibration problem completely, because the screws are loosened by the vibrations, because the handle has a lot of play even when locked in place. The solution is quite easy, just a piece of foam rubber at both ends and the rattling is already quiet. Edited December 7, 2019 by buell47 11 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoKnvl Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 1 hour ago, buell47 said: Since a couple of days I have been worried about extreme annoying booming noises/vibrations when braking hard or accelerating fast. Today I was able to locate the problem. It's the trolley handle that causes the noise and vibration. Additionally I had to find out that the cheap screws were almost falling out. Since a reasonable tightening of these screws is hardly possible, I exchanged them immediately with Allen screws and secured them with Loctite. But this does not solve the vibration problem completely, because the screws are loosened by the vibrations, because the handle has a lot of play even when locked in place. The solution is quite easy, just a piece of foam rubber at both ends and the rattling is already quiet. Nice! Do you know the dimensions of the bolts you used? No problems yet, but I may just go ahead and replace them as well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 (edited) @EvoKnvlIt's M3 x 10mm. Edited October 4, 2019 by buell47 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectriQ User Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 This thread can be sticky? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Deleon Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 I used my KS-16X in the rain today, I protected the top with plastic so it would get soaked. But right now the ON/OFF button is not working, Any ideas on how to troubleshoot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted October 8, 2019 Author Share Posted October 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Leonardo Deleon said: I used my KS-16X in the rain today, I protected the top with plastic so it would get soaked. But right now the ON/OFF button is not working, Any ideas on how to troubleshoot? Just follow my suggestions. Remove the sides of the housing and dry it with a hair dryer. Remove the water from the Power button if possible. After that don't ride in the rain or where dust and dirt is, or follow my first post. Thats it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vida Wang Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 This thread is very funny... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted October 21, 2019 Share Posted October 21, 2019 Weatherproofing aside, I also plan on improving the offroad-worthyness of my 16x. Tried out some super steep hillocks and deep carving and didn't like how the big pedals hit the ground so easily. Can anyone who has spare pedals lying around help me check if there are other cross-compatible pedals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 On 10/21/2019 at 9:46 PM, Tinkererboi said: Can anyone who has spare pedals lying around help me check if there are other cross-compatible pedals? The short answer is... No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryman Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 7 hours ago, The Fat Unicyclist said: The short answer is... No. So did you mean No or no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fat Unicyclist Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 6 hours ago, fryman said: So did you mean No or no? I mean yes and no... Yes I have spare pedals and no they aren't cross-compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted November 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) Update after 1200 km: The modifications were a good success. After 1200 km it looks better inside now than before after 20 km (mostly offroad). Dust and Dirt Improvement V.2 These places seem to be the most important, this is where most of the dirt comes in. Most important in the rear, but I also recommend sealing the same areas in the front.(The first attempt (V.1) was not so perfect and was therefore replaced in the first post by this one.) Control Board - possible water ingress due to splashing water from the tyre Now that I've changed the Control Board, the next problem spot caught my eyes! The original foam rubber gasket which is glued to the housing is too thin and does not seal. The aluminum plate already touches the housing without compressing the gasket. It does not allow dust or dirt to pass through, but water is guaranteed to pass through it. Not the best place for water ingress. Solution: Either another thin foam rubber seal, or better remove the old one and replace it with a thicker one. Unfortunately I did not have a thicker one at hand and therefore I used a second one. Dust in Headlight Since @RoadRunner asked me at the right time whether my headlight was so dirty from the inside, I was able to get to the bottom of the cause, even though my headlight still looked like new. This is @RoadRunner headlight: This is the reason (at least if dust gets into the housing): Giant gap above and below the circuit board of the LED. The reflector is also not tight enough in the housing. Solution: Sealing with sealing compound (I didn't have it at hand either, therefore 2K adhesive) between circuit board and reflector. I don't know if the LED will heat it up very much, so maybe take care to take something that doesn't dissolve at 50°C. A layer of thin tape around the reflector (I used copper tape). Edited November 5, 2019 by buell47 18 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoKnvl Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 Great info. I might want to seal up the important areas you highlighted. I do mainly on-road but I have a lot of dust all over the rear end on the unit. I can see how it could easily get dust inside. Thanks for the pics and guide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectriQ User Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 @buell47, A+ for your post 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted December 14, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) Here comes the biggest and most important mod for the 16X...... ...a turn-off switch for the annoying alarm beeper! Finally no more annoying beeping when charging with more than 5A and the deafening confirmation tones when pressing the power button. Edited December 14, 2019 by buell47 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ir_fuel Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 And nobody mentions the Saleen?! Need more pictures of that! Are you running that thing? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcarp Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 On 9/15/2019 at 5:59 AM, buell47 said: I opened the 16X again Thanks for the detailed write-ups. I have just taken mine off road and I’m concerned that it will turn out like yours as I can see some gaps at the front and back which will let dust in. However, how do you open it up? As far as I can tell, I need to remove the three rubber paddings on each side to access the screws, but they seem to be glued on and I’m not sure that they will snap back into place when I re-assemble this. Is that how it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 21, 2020 Author Share Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) It is not necessary to remove the pads completely. I take two very small (with sharp tip) screwdrivers and carefully remove the pad step by step. Only as far as I can get into the holes with a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the housing screws. When loosening the screws take care that the pad with the glue does not touch the screwdriver, otherwise the adhesive tape will stick to it immediately. If you do not touch or destroy the glue with your greasy fingers, it will still stick sufficiently. Otherwise I use small pieces of double-sided tape 3M 9088 to glue the small parts back together. Edited March 21, 2020 by buell47 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 Can anyone please direct me to a graphic description of how best to get to the controller board for changing it? Also what types of wrenches/drivers and socket sizes? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 (edited) You will need a Phillips screwdriver (PD1/PD2) and for the pedals a 5mm Allen wrench (or 6mm ). Side cutter for the cable ties. 0:18 remove pedals 0:30 remove side shell (to get access to the screws, see post above your post) 1:10 disconnect battery 1:56 remove 4x screw 2:32 remove 2x screw (just if you are not able to disconnect the control board wires/connectors) same on other side 5:33 remove the top part of the shell (just pull out the handle, no need to remove it) 5:56 remove front light panel and disconnect wires (just if you are not able to disconnect the control board wires/connectors directly on the control board, can't remember if this was necessary) 6:16 disconnect charging connector and all other too 6:53 remove 4x screw from control board It's up to you if you want to make all the modifications you find in this thread. I can only recommend it. Edited March 23, 2020 by buell47 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcarp Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 4 hours ago, buell47 said: 0:30 remove side shell (to get access to the screws, see post above your post) Thanks for your description. I had seen this video but couldn't work out how to get to the screws. Your description makes sense. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus2000 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) https://imgur.com/a/abH6WQx just modded my 16x seat so it will stop falling off and I can add height and adjust the angle of the seat a bit I used -adhesive velcro strips -the standard seat -black yoga blocks -screws(the standard seat is very resistant to adhesion) Edited March 25, 2020 by Nimbus2000 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABS Knut Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 I like the idea of velcroing the seat. Thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CampDylan Posted March 27, 2020 Share Posted March 27, 2020 On 3/22/2020 at 9:35 PM, buell47 said: 0:18 remove pedals Okay, started on the left side, removed the small/short screw with the 5mm allen which took a lot of effort, back & forth, WD40. In the video it shows that the rod comes out the same side, the right side. I've tried hammering it out from the left side using various tools; ie the same allen wrench, a flathead, an empty driver tube, etc. It doesn't want to budge and I'm afraid I'm going to jack it up. Could it be that it's bent in there from all the crashes? Please advise, thank you! Covid be damned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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