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Official 16X disassembly video posted by King Song


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36 minutes ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

Should I consider making an "unofficial" video at the same time

Will Mrs.TFU and your skilled hobbits be extras on your production?;)

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On ‎8‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 9:27 PM, Rehab1 said:

Will Mrs.TFU and your skilled hobbits be extras on your production?;)

 

On ‎8‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 3:53 AM, Rehab1 said:

I’ll have them shipped to your front door.

 

You can't sorry... In New Zealand it is illegal to ship people or hobbits... In fact the only "live animals" that you can ship in New Zealand are bees, leeches and silkworms.   :blink1:

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  • 2 years later...

I had my 16X for a year now and I have no real reason to open it yet but I ride in the forest from time to time so I would like to see if mud accumulated inside. I have been putting it off because I heard that it was difficult to peel the side pads and I am afraid to ruin them if I can't stick them back neatly (kind of an OCD thing). I might even prefer to drill holes through the pads if I could add some sort of hole reinforcement rings (like the stickers used on paper holes) so the screws would always be exposed and maybe it wouldn't look too DIY. 

Am I making a big deal out of nothing or is there a way to make this process easier?

Edited by Kryziss
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9 minutes ago, Kryziss said:

Am I making a big deal out of nothing or is there a way to make this process easier?

It isn't too difficult to do, especially when you know where the screws are located...

I use a set of upholstery tools to make it easier, though a port knife would work the same way. Use it to slide under the pad and gently lift it (pushing from behind rather than pulling from the front). The foam is fairly flexible and stretches out of the way quite easily. 

And if things do go horribly wrong, I can go you up with replacement pad(s) at a good price.    :D

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A couple of tips from my experience. Use a hair dryer to warm everything up first, that'll help the adhesive release from the plastic. Make sure your hands don't have dirt and dust on them, your fingers will get all over the adhesive and if you add dust and dirt they won't stick back down as well. Doesn't look terrible if they don't stick, but.

Before you get started go out and buy about 30 m3x6 (8mm long will fit too) stainless hex head screws and use those to replace the philips that are in there from the factory. You'll thank me next time you open the wheel. DON'T EVER use locktite on anything that's going to be anywhere near plastic... locktite eats plastic. No screws in the 16X need locktite anyway, but don't be tempted.

Lastly, buried somewhere in this forum you'll find a "how to improve the dust proofing" on your wheel—you'll need a few bits of squishy foam and a couple of washers. It's very easy to do and works reasonably well.

Have fun, the 16X is cake to work on and it's fascinating (to me) to see it's internals.

Edited by Tawpie
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On 8/28/2021 at 11:59 PM, Kryziss said:

I had my 16X for a year now and I have no real reason to open it yet but I ride in the forest from time to time so I would like to see if mud accumulated inside. I have been putting it off because I heard that it was difficult to peel the side pads and I am afraid to ruin them if I can't stick them back neatly (kind of an OCD thing). I might even prefer to drill holes through the pads if I could add some sort of hole reinforcement rings (like the stickers used on paper holes) so the screws would always be exposed and maybe it wouldn't look too DIY. 

Am I making a big deal out of nothing or is there a way to make this process easier?

Another option is to make holes in your side pads instead of removing them completely.
I have some files available here: 

Where you can download and print the dxf on paper and lay it on your side pads. then you'll know the location of where to poke holes

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1 hour ago, ArieKanarie said:

Another option is to make holes in your side pads instead of removing them completely.

I don't remove the pads, just lift them where necessary and slip a screwdriver in...

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