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KS-16x Tire Discussion


magicrobots

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25 minutes ago, Daniel-Son said:

That truly sucks! Thanks for the heads up.

13 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

Crap. Sorry man. 

No biggie, still rides the same. I'll just have a little frankenstein gash at the top of my wheel for the next 2-3 months until I can get a new shell. So as an FYI.. there were a total of 6 small screws at the surface and 4 that go in deeper.  I missed the 2 at the very top of the wheel.  Like a dummy, I read 8 screws and didn't look at the picture. The picture clearly shows 10. Oh well, not going to worry about it. I could get cracked shell by wrecking my wheel. Sorry to get off the topic of the tire discussion.

Edited by HarpMudd
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3 hours ago, HarpMudd said:

Just so everyone knows, the ecodrift tutorial says there are 8 screws to take off the shell.  There are 10 screws. I missed the 2 at the top and pulled too hard when I shouldn't have and cracked my shell. I tried super-gluing and it looks like crap now. All to see if I could replace the magnet because my pedal kept flopping down. Pretty pissed. I suspect I'll be waiting awhile until new shells arrive.

Bad translation?  There is a picture of the inside of the cover.  I counted that picture.   Sorry to hear.  

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3 hours ago, HarpMudd said:

Just so everyone knows, the ecodrift tutorial says there are 8 screws to take off the shell.  There are 10 screws. I missed the 2 at the top and pulled too hard when I shouldn't have and cracked my shell. I tried super-gluing and it looks like crap now. All to see if I could replace the magnet because my pedal kept flopping down. Pretty pissed. I suspect I'll be waiting awhile until new shells arrive.

Note, very important am going to use wording that sounds bad in this situation but I mean nothing bad at all, only trying to help if I can. 

So here goes. Since you didn't post any picture I can't really see the damage done. If it is the inner structure or "only" the the outers shell covers. (by "only" I mean if you are to replace an inner structure it is a much bigger job) . 

Now since you used superglue I don't if this trick will work still. It works with previous KS wheels as for KS16X it might be different compound of plastics. 

When I cracked my outer and inner shell of my V8 I had difficulty to find a glue to run in to the crack. So what a work colleague suggested was to use a tiny syringe with acetone. The acetone desolve the plastic or chemical melts it so you can apply pressure and it will join the 2 contact point as it dries the crack will not be visible and you don't risk a tiny fracture exist to generate new cracks from. You have to be carefully don't use more that a drop or so at it requires very little to soften the cracked surface area. I suggest to find a different plastic item to test this out on first so you get an idea of how much to apply and the following hardning/settling process. 

I hope you get this fixed so it is rideable and so it looks OK. I think it can take some time to get hold of spare parts since 1st batch only just shipped out. 

I think @eddiemoy mentioned also the 10 screws in his post about shifting to a different tyre. But this just shows early pre-production units is not good as reference to teardown or final reviewing. 

 

Edited by Unventor
As I wrote this post Eddiemoy posted a reply too
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50 minutes ago, Unventor said:

Note, very important am going to use wording that sounds bad in this situation but I mean nothing bad at all, only trying to help if I can. 

So here goes. Since you didn't post any picture I can't really see the damage done. If it is the inner structure or "only" the the outers shell covers. (by "only" I mean if you are to replace an inner structure it is a much bigger job) . 

Now since you used superglue I don't if this trick will work still. It works with previous KS wheels as for KS16X it might be different compound of plastics. 

When I cracked my outer and inner shell of my V8 I had difficulty to find a glue to run in to the crack. So what a work colleague suggested was to use a tiny syringe with acetone. The acetone desolve the plastic or chemical melts it so you can apply pressure and it will join the 2 contact point as it dries the crack will not be visible and you don't risk a tiny fracture exist to generate new cracks from. You have to be carefully don't use more that a drop or so at it requires very little to soften the cracked surface area. I suggest to find a different plastic item to test this out on first so you get an idea of how much to apply and the following hardning/settling process. 

I hope you get this fixed so it is rideable and so it looks OK. I think it can take some time to get hold of spare parts since 1st batch only just shipped out. 

I think @eddiemoy mentioned also the 10 screws in his post about shifting to a different tyre. But this just shows early pre-production units is not good as reference to teardown or final reviewing. 

 

Thanks for the tip, but I think it's a little too late. I put it back together and I'm lucky, it's very stable. I could have been more patient and have taken my time - totally my mistake.  Until the shell replacement comes, I should be fine.. Totally rideable... Nothing moving, nothing rattling. More of a cosmetic issue than anything.  I wrote Vicky from KS to see when she can get me a shell and magnet. We'll see, maybe I'll get lucky.

Edited by HarpMudd
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A couple things: today I reduced tire pressure from ~40psi to 30 as an experiment, and for off road softness. I weight about 200 pounds.

1) Off road, the tire is much more compliant over logs and roots. Duh. Didn't bounce me up in the air when hitting obstacles as much, more just gobbled them up, depending on the size of the log or root. This pressure was fantastic for the technical trails we were hitting, and helped a ton on gravelly / sandy portions as well. Climbed like a beast.

2) Carving on the asphalt it felt a little better as well - a little less "gyro" action.

3) I tried someone's nikola. The tire profile is much more gradual and round. I think I prefer it and might switch to it.

Edited by magicrobots
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Not my post but though it fits better here, but didn't want to move it. 

Edited by Unventor
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On 8/9/2019 at 5:43 AM, eddiemoy said:

Here are some pictures of the CST tire.  I don’t think it removes the gyro effect as much as the CYT tire that was in pre-production.

Im going to try to get my hands on the CYT tire.  I loved that tire.  Made the 16X ride just like the other wheels I had. No adjustment in riding style. 

79BE28DE-CD06-4195-9912-61EDF415BE2D.thumb.jpeg.cfc76e41d10362a676e6e4529a09ef91.jpeg

Do you know where I can get the CYT tire?

Thank you

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16 hours ago, Gustesta said:

Do you know where I can get the CYT tire?

Thank you

I can’t find the tire anywhere!  I really want that tire.  It behaved the best on the 16X out of the three tires.  Absolutely zero gyro.  I’m not impressed by the CST tire probably because I’m not a high tire pressure rider.  I ride at 18psi for these 3” tires. 

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1 hour ago, eddiemoy said:

I can’t find the tire anywhere!  I really want that tire.  It behaved the best on the 16X out of the three tires.  Absolutely zero gyro.  I’m not impressed by the CST tire probably because I’m not a high tire pressure rider.  I ride at 18psi for these 3” tires. 

I'll let you know if I get the CYT tire directly with KS.

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On 8/16/2019 at 7:21 AM, eddiemoy said:

I can’t find the tire anywhere!  I really want that tire.

@eddiemoy  I was searching around the internet today.  Do you think this is the CYT H-5146?

https://www.yoycart.com/Product/528757310772/

It was a random hit, so I don't know anything about the merchant.  Or if it's even the correct tire.

Edit:  Maybe not the correct tire.  I just noticed that it says "vacuum tire".

Edited by Genghis
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Just got back from a group ride today.

I let the other riders try the 16x with the factory tire.  

They all concluded it is one of the best wheels available.

None of the riders experienced oscillation or wobbling.  They all said the tire was very good.  No complaints.

Other wheels on the group were a KS18XL and a MSX.

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On 8/16/2019 at 4:41 PM, ir_fuel said:

I'm going to try getting a CST tyre on my KS16X. Just want to get rid of the brake wobbles.

On Wednesday I'll be doing a small road trip to 1radwerkstatt to swap the tyre.

1 hour ago, Gustesta said:

None of the riders experienced oscillation or wobbling.  They all said the tire was very good.  No complaints.

Depends on rider weight and your tyre pressure IMO.

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On 8/17/2019 at 9:10 PM, buell47 said:

No, this should be the CYT H-5146.

Not that one either, it was the H-5167. From an old comparison of mine:

5146.png.695b821e24137dd03adfb566f1e34ba 5167.jpg.d8f3b208236bf414d86e0daacfae628 5168.png.d1f13222c27795b8e8f49e552fc4350 6915448_ChaoYangH-5102.png.6ec3dd77b98ebd9c327bf354abe9ffb0.png CST.jpg.69e356d199e08d6bc6b03aa0184cdd47

(CST being the C-1488 from Nikola, Msuper v3, etc.)

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Then my information from KS was wrong again. I was told this tyre type together with the pictures.

But my pictures are also hardly related to your picture of the H-5167. The fact that it is not the H-5146 is perfectly obvious, but that it is the H-5167 is also difficult to identify. Are you sure? 

When I look at all the tires I would say that the CST C-1488 should be the most suitable for offroad, or what do you think? 

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3 hours ago, buell47 said:

but that it is the H-5167 is also difficult to identify. Are you sure?

Yes. I’ve been drooling over that tire, and looking at the pictures of it from every possible angle. And I have a 14” version here at home as well. The straight edged shallow V-shaped blocks are the giveaway, no other tire (that I’ve seen) has those.

3 hours ago, buell47 said:

When I look at all the tires I would say that the CST C-1488 should be the most suitable for offroad, or what do you think? 

I do suspect that it digs the deepest on mud, yes. But a few aspects do not show on the outside, so one must always compare in use to be certain. For example,  the 5102 has a terrible grip when wet, despite looking decent. And the 5167 has these small attached knubs that might make it grip like crazy on cliffs, rocks and roots, even when wet. No way to know though.

Also, none of them mention the size of the tire in the photo, which can change things quite a bit. For example, the 18x3.0” sized 5102 on the MSX has a flat center section that is proportionally a lot wider than in the above photo. Therefore the same 5102 might grip better on the 18XL (18x2.50”), even when wet.

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3 hours ago, Patton250 said:

 I’m jealous that are you guys know how to change tires on these things. It looks like a major pain in the ass to me. 

It didn’t look hard when Benni from 1radwerkstatt did it for me. :laughbounce2:

Next time i do it myself.

Here is a good step by step description how to change the tire from @Hibiki Mr.H

 

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