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16x Issues Thread


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On 3/11/2020 at 4:51 AM, Celt26 said:

Hey guys! 

 

Have the cutout issues been fixed with the 16X now? Safe to cruise in the mid to high 20's and maybe hit 30mph? Thinking of buying one to go with my MSX 100V.

Also at 50% and under battery levels what speeds are you getting limited to? 

 

Thanks all!

Everything is about you weight. Cut outs no is  Overlean aways be there EUCs is not idiot proof this is part of design all wheels. Is not cutout is overlean problem lack of safety buffer and driver failure.

Dont forget kingsong 16x speed is fake by + 9% compared to real speed(gps ,inmotion, gotway) simplified app say you go 50km/h in real world you go +-45km/h

I use alarms in eucworld app (without corection 9%): Tiltback 42km/h   under 40% = 40km/h under 20% = 32 km/h under 5% = 26km/h  Current alarm =27A

This is superconservative settings for maximum safety . Real ks16x raw limits is little bit higher @Mike Sacristan have nice posts about this you can look there. He tested limits comparing FW 1.05 vs 1.07 all answers you need are there .

MSX 100v vs ks16x i duno what 16x can give you extra what you expect? Maybee slow speed agility or handle i no see logical reason to buy. KS16x is anyway 45km/h unit what realy sufer to water damage if this things is not problem for you be happy.   

 

Edited by DjPanJan
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On ‎3‎/‎4‎/‎2020 at 12:24 PM, Brandin J. Mercer said:

Anyone else have issues with the rear rubber fender just ripping off like it was nothing? Set my wheel in the back seat and my just ripped off cleanly 

20200229_170339.jpg

My fender ripped off after one day!

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6 hours ago, AngryJackPCB said:

My fender ripped off after one day!

It can rip of any second if not treated right. It is not made by alien tech. It is only rubber. 

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On 3/8/2020 at 10:01 PM, lucian75 said:

Hello,today i have a problem with my ks16x...raining day,i don't cover anything so after a while i saw that something is wrong..he don't respond to shut off...and last he don't start.

Red light is allways on and bluetooth light..so i connected to the phone,i put we will rock you song and after few seconds led lights starting to light with song rythm. Also i see that front light is flashing sometimes so i try to see the reason.

My guess is that lift sensor get water...i was thinking that is the weakest point of the shell...and when i pull trolley up the light is flashing.

Now i let it to dry and i hope tomorrow he will start again..what do You think?

I hear about 2 fuses..what about them?

This is how my power switch look like when my dealer did service on my wheel. 

Drying up a switch will not take away the water damage as the corrosion has started. It needs at least cleaning up or ever being swapped out. 

20191019_143238_resize_79.thumb.jpg.91fe48474a56e40cb69f768efb12db75.jpg20191019_143119_resize_83.thumb.jpg.9ad10d55fe1c2ff79911e356af9c88f3.jpg20191021_115150_resize_90.thumb.jpg.5bb94a476e1591e99bff3709ae3dfe2e.jpg

After the service done, it should not get water damage again as both switch is sealed of with silicone and extra seal have been placed as areas suspected to be the entry point of the water.

Since I didn't do this (I didn't have the experience to diagnosis this properly  and I wanted KS to get this document ed to improve) but my dealer did this service. So I am not really sure all details.

Edited by Unventor
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I'm getting a slight "thump thump thump" feeling in my pedals at higher speeds (18+ mph) on smooth surfaces, I can't detect it on rough pavement or off road,  it speeds up as the wheel speeds up, I'm running 35 psi and weigh 210 lbs, I'm guessing it's coming from the valve stem assembly where maybe the tire doesn't flex as much, the rim is not bent or damaged in any way, any ideas where to start?

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9 minutes ago, RetroThruster said:

I'm getting a slight "thump thump thump" feeling in my pedals at higher speeds (18+ mph) on smooth surfaces, I can't detect it on rough pavement or off road,  it speeds up as the wheel speeds up, I'm running 35 psi and weigh 210 lbs, I'm guessing it's coming from the valve stem assembly where maybe the tire doesn't flex as much, the rim is not bent or damaged in any way, any ideas where to start?

With EUC off, lay EUC on side.  Place tire tread near something solid (ie, table leg) with 1mm gap such that tire can still turn.  Turn the tire by hand.  Does the 1mm gap grow/shrink with rotation?

Edited by xorbe
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25 minutes ago, RetroThruster said:

I'm getting a slight "thump thump thump" feeling in my pedals at higher speeds (18+ mph) on smooth surfaces, I can't detect it on rough pavement or off road,  it speeds up as the wheel speeds up, I'm running 35 psi and weigh 210 lbs, I'm guessing it's coming from the valve stem assembly where maybe the tire doesn't flex as much, the rim is not bent or damaged in any way, any ideas where to start?

Early batches were reported to have the valve hold in the rim not 100% perfect placed. Some have posted what they did to improve it. 

I get this too from time to time. But it bothers me not. I learned to ignore it. If you let out a tiny bit of pressure it might improve. But I decided to raise the pressure as I could not ride over minor curbs without risking the rim touching the curb. I prefer the lower pressure for ride comfort but I don't want to risk rim damage. 

You can adapt to many things. I just need to ride my KS16X more frequently, which is hard in the lockdown times. 

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54 minutes ago, xorbe said:

With EUC off, lay EUC on side.  Place tire tread near something solid (ie, table leg) with 1mm gap such that tire can still turn.  Turn the tire by hand.  Does the 1mm gap grow/shrink with rotation?

Okay, I just checked, there might be a 1mm runout difference but the change is so subtle that I doubt that it would be noticeable, it to me would be more like a bump bump sensation like a tire is out of round, this feels like hitting very small expansion joints on the interstate, it's very minor and only can be felt on very smooth surfaces, I'm sure I'll end up with a flat at some point or do a tire change so maybe I'll dig further at that time.  I appreciate it!

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39 minutes ago, Unventor said:

Early batches were reported to have the valve hold in the rim not 100% perfect placed. Some have posted what they did to improve it. 

I get this too from time to time. But it bothers me not. I learned to ignore it. If you let out a tiny bit of pressure it might improve. But I decided to raise the pressure as I could not ride over minor curbs without risking the rim touching the curb. I prefer the lower pressure for ride comfort but I don't want to risk rim damage. 

You can adapt to many things. I just need to ride my KS16X more frequently, which is hard in the lockdown times. 

Got it, seems like RockyTop here mentioned that to me about the valve stem, my main concern was that it wasn't anything major, I rarely ride on super smooth asphalt so it's certainly something that I can live with til it's time for a tire change or tube repair.  Hope you are able to get our and ride more soon, tough times we're going thru...  Thanks for the insight!

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3 hours ago, RetroThruster said:

Okay, I just checked, there might be a 1mm runout difference but the change is so subtle that I doubt that it would be noticeable, it to me would be more like a bump bump sensation like a tire is out of round, this feels like hitting very small expansion joints on the interstate, it's very minor and only can be felt on very smooth surfaces, I'm sure I'll end up with a flat at some point or do a tire change so maybe I'll dig further at that time.  I appreciate it!

On my MCM5, I had to deflate and rotate the tire a few times until about 0.5mm delta.  As received, it was notably pulsating as my speed increased.  It's like the up-n-down would reach a resonation point and start jack hammering.  My own 16X was fine though.

Edited by xorbe
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6 hours ago, RetroThruster said:

Got it, seems like RockyTop here mentioned that to me about the valve stem, my main concern was that it wasn't anything major, I rarely ride on super smooth asphalt so it's certainly something that I can live with til it's time for a tire change or tube repair.  Hope you are able to get our and ride more soon, tough times we're going thru...  Thanks for the insight!

Come to think of it I think it was @buell47 who posted his mod to "fix" this. I never did it as I am a little concerned what Gets in by the expanding of this hole. You don't want sande oan minor pebbles in there that can grind on the tube.

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7 hours ago, RetroThruster said:

Got it, seems like RockyTop here mentioned that to me about the valve stem, my main concern was that it wasn't anything major, I rarely ride on super smooth asphalt so it's certainly something that I can live with til it's time for a tire change or tube repair.  Hope you are able to get our and ride more soon, tough times we're going thru...  Thanks for the insight!

I'm sure you have the same problem. Scroll down to 2. Tire sit not properly on the rim

 

31 minutes ago, Unventor said:

You don't want sande oan minor pebbles in there that can grind on the tube

The hose is sealing the hole. Besides, the hose around the valve is very thick and stable. 

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On 3/8/2020 at 8:36 PM, Unventor said:

I think this [water leaky problem] happened because they rush build 1st batch due to delay in part changes. And apprently the hot glue gun guy from GW visited the KS manufacturer line those 2 weeks he had holiday from GW. 

You are comedian and should have own show! :lol:

I laugh sausage out my nose! 

Edited by WI_Hedgehog
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16 hours ago, AngryJackPCB said:

I've  been riding for about 6 weeks now and have about 300 miles on my KS-16X. I curise at 15-20 mphH (24-32 kph) and when the paths are empty, like now, I go 28 mph (45 kph). The top speed of my wheel is listed at 31 mph (50 kph) . I think if I had the power available, I'd go faster when I become more comfortable with it. 

Are all the high-speed bugs worked out? Seems it was the Bluetooth music chip at the heart of it? 

 

(his comment is from the top speed thread

 

 

 

Edited by WI_Hedgehog
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On 3/4/2020 at 12:24 PM, Brandin J. Mercer said:

Anyone else have issues with the rear rubber fender just ripping off like it was nothing? Set my wheel in the back seat and my just ripped off cleanly 

Zip ties have been holding quite well for me faaP2qP.jpg

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I'm not sure if this is normal and doesn't appear to affect the functionality of the wheel, but I noticed that when I lift the wheel while the light is off, the light comes on momentarily. 

Does this happen to anyone else? I've noticed it happens while the wheel is charging.
Video of light blinking

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I noticed this issue when I had a previous issue with my charger not turning the wheel off when it was done charging.

For some reason my stock charger just kept the wheel barely powered even once it was done charging (charger light was green). So nothing was on except the red light you can see through the shell. And if I picked it up by the handle it would flash the light for a brief second.

But I have the variable fast charger from ewheels with a hard shutoff so it's no longer an issue.

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6 hours ago, HumbleHusky said:

I'm not sure if this is normal and doesn't appear to affect the functionality of the wheel, but I noticed that when I lift the wheel while the light is off, the light comes on momentarily.

Yes, this, and the red light that keeps on glowing on the inside happen if you 've left it charging too long.
Best practice is to always quickly power the wheel on and off after charging.

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9 hours ago, HumbleHusky said:

I'm not sure if this is normal and doesn't appear to affect the functionality of the wheel, but I noticed that when I lift the wheel while the light is off, the light comes on momentarily. 

Does this happen to anyone else? I've noticed it happens while the wheel is charging.
Video of light blinking

Mine does this as well. Guess it is normal? Just a slight inconvenience having to manually power it up and down after charging XD

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