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Mountain climping V8


Zodd1982

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Hello EUC community.

 

Since a month i am a proud owner of a Inmotion V8.

Something i didnt realy found on the internet is any information or experience of climbing a mountain with a EUC.

My plan is to climp a local mountain with my V8 (about 1000m height differences or 3200 feed)..

Is anyone experienced on climping a mountain with a EUC, special on summer with with the current head of 30°+cesius, are there any known problems with overheating or brake systems?

Wanna make sure there arent any known problems when downhilling over long time with my EUC..

 

 

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a great deal of peopls ride eucs up mountains.. ive taken every euc ive owned up the largest mountain in my city which is almost 3000 feet more times than i can count, not a single one has ever had any problem whatsoever.. unless under the most extreme circumstances 99% of the time your euc will handle it with ease, the worst youd likely experience would be an overheat where it would beep at you and tilt you back not letting you ride until it cools.. i wouldnt worry about it at all, braking is no problem whatsoever you will gain some battery back, so long as you dont start at the top of the mountain with a full charge (which would lead to over voltage cutoff) then youll be fine.. i suggest you watch some of martys videos on youtube for some inspiration https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQeDQAr2JgTSSujXThdlWxg

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The V8 has a low-powered motor and a very small battery (by current standards), so be sure to match your expectations regarding riding speed. A few riders have overleaned the V8 even without any hills.

Wheel performances are at quite a different level than what they used to 3 years ago when the V8 was new.

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My weight is around 75kg (150 pounds) and normaly able do get a distance of 45km (28 miles). The tour i looking for is around 18km long (uphill 1000m/3200feed) and ofc 18km downhill.

I am curious how far up i get until i reach around 20% batterie.. (better keep some backup ...)

 

I tested my V8 befor on steep gravel roads combareable to the one i go for.. so fare its looking good with traction and performance.. Just a bit concerned with overheating, its going do be very hot here.

 

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22 hours ago, Zodd1982 said:

My weight is around 75kg (150 pounds) and normaly able do get a distance of 45km (28 miles). The tour i looking for is around 18km long (uphill 1000m/3200feed) and ofc 18km downhill.

I am curious how far up i get until i reach around 20% batterie.. (better keep some backup ...)

 

I tested my V8 befor on steep gravel roads combareable to the one i go for.. so fare its looking good with traction and performance.. Just a bit concerned with overheating, its going do be very hot here.

 

only way to know is do it lol, youre light.. the v8 will handle it easily i think

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  • 2 weeks later...

The v8 can climb like a beast. Just remember two things.

1. If you weigh a lot you ask much more of the battery and so you will experience sag early. When you feel the wheel power sagging don't push harder. Just float the sag point.

2. Descending produces very high charging currents for the battery. Learn to descend with an even brake level. That means you can go faster on low grades and slower on steep grades. And adjust the speed before arriving to a steep descent. You don't want to hit the capacitors and battery with a ton of amps of current. That's how you'll shorten the lifespan of things or having the wheel shut off mid ride. You'll also get much more regen riding with an even brake level (even brake power).

3. Don't descend with a full/nearly full battery. 

Luckily you don't have to worry much about overheating. I've done 200m altitude climbs in a very short time and I couldn't even get the wheel to break a sweat. It stayed under 50 degrees. 

However I don't like riding climbs fast without knowing the power/temperature. Climb while checking the stats. Descend a few hundred meters at a time and then check temp/battery level so you're not too high.

If the wheel has any weakness it's the undersized battery. With a custom battery you could climb and descend faster.

Edited by alcatraz
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12 hours ago, alcatraz said:

Learn to descend with an even brake level. That means you can go faster on low grades and slower on steep grades. And adjust the speed before arriving to a steep descent.

To make sure I'm understanding this correctly: for steep hills I should be starting down the hill more slowly (because I braked early/before the hill) and I should maintain a constant level of "brake pressure" (which would mean my speed would increase over time as I go down the hill gaining momentum) - correct?

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2 hours ago, BarrettJ said:

To make sure I'm understanding this correctly: for steep hills I should be starting down the hill more slowly (because I braked early/before the hill) and I should maintain a constant level of "brake pressure" (which would mean my speed would increase over time as I go down the hill gaining momentum) - correct?

That would strain the battery, motor and controller the least, yes. That’s how I go down steep hills. I’m 92kg.

Tip for steep hills: Open up your knees so that you don’t steer unless necessary. Otherwise you might go into a left-right wobble and forced to abandon ship. Or even fall.

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On 7/11/2019 at 3:32 PM, BarrettJ said:

To make sure I'm understanding this correctly: for steep hills I should be starting down the hill more slowly (because I braked early/before the hill) and I should maintain a constant level of "brake pressure" (which would mean my speed would increase over time as I go down the hill gaining momentum) - correct?

I don't think one should go downhill with constantly increasing speed. That sounds like an unsafe way to go about riding an EUC ;)

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On 7/11/2019 at 6:32 AM, BarrettJ said:

To make sure I'm understanding this correctly: for steep hills I should be starting down the hill more slowly (because I braked early/before the hill) and I should maintain a constant level of "brake pressure" (which would mean my speed would increase over time as I go down the hill gaining momentum) - correct?

petty much yea.. you maintain speed to a degree in order to regenerate.. I'm saying for example if the EUC was off.. you would be accelerating because of gravity, like on a bike, but you're not.. so the excess energy can then go back into the battery.. you can see it in real time by looking at the app to get a better understanding. it's the opposite of what happens when you accelerate, there is a lot of energy expended to overcome resistance and a lot is wasted that's why when somebody goes 40 kph on an EUC, one might think that they would use the exact same amount of energy as someone going 20 kph but taking twice as long to get there.. when in fact this is not true, the faster you go the more energy waste is created to overcome resistance, therefore the person going faster will always have less battery at the destination.. when braking downhill you get the opposite effect, gravity is the one pulling you down the hill so the energy going to the motor is mainly from that and not the battery..

Edited by Rywokast
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regenerative breaking as a whole is a bit confused.. a moving vehicle of any kind has kinetic energy, normally when you brake it just goes poof disappears as heat usually and is wasted.. now when you have regenerative braking that kinetic energy when you stop is able to be converted and put back into the battery.. pretty cool, but then you think where did that kinetic energy COME from, you cant create something from nothing, you didnt use the energy in your body to accelerate, no you used the energy in the vehicles battery to accelerate, as you are doing over and over and over all the time, that energy originated from your battery, therefore when you brake and put some of the would be lost kinetic energy BACK into the battery they call that regenerative braking.. but if you really think about it its more akin to less wasteful braking, as your battery was the one that made that kinetic energy available in the first place so youre not gaining anything really, youre just not losing as much as you would have if you didnt have regenerative braking. where it gets back to actual regen and becomes a lot more useful is down hill, now nature is working with you, the kinetic energy does not originate from your battery now, it originates with gravity pulling an object down a hill and thats how you get some bonus battery :) of course you expended and wasted a lot more energy getting up the hill so its not like you can go up a hill just to come down it thinking you will have more battery from before you even went up.. even if it was 100% efficient which nothing on earth is that still wouldnt be the case.. which i hope would be obvious im just using it as an example lol. the reason why there is no risk of cut out from braking (was one members fear in another thread) when you charge your battery to over 100% is  because the energy gained braking is not equal to the energy lost accelerating.. the more you weigh and the more wind resistance, you will spend that much more accelerating, this energy accelerating will always be more than what is able to be converted back and "gained" while braking and that is why there is no risk of over voltage cutout from braking with a full battery.. BUT if you start with a full battery on top of a hill, there is a great risk of cutting out from over voltage as like i said before, you never spend that initial energy to accelerate, at the very least, nowhere near as much of it.. obviously the longer and steeper the hill the more risk there is.. so just dont start your trip with a full battery on top of a hill and there is no risk.. at least not from over voltage :P

Edited by Rywokast
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