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Snowball

Gotwat Tesla - How weak/cheap/shitty is its shell?

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Coming from a KS16S, I'm thinking to buy this great 16".

I know it's as not as carefully finished as the Kingsong's, that it has not the real light, that the pedals are a little low (I don't know if lower than the KS-16S) and so on.
I've read and heard feedbacks from a few owners and they are almost enthusiastic about its ride feeling and experience it gives.

I drove it for a few miles just to test and it seems a solid EUC, maybe a little bit heavier (in riding, i'm not talking about its weigh) than KS-16S but nothing I cannot get used to.

There's one that confuses me yet. The quality of its shell. I mean the plastic pieces the cover the core of the EUC.
I've a friend that months ago crashed his Tesla, not a big accident, and seriously damaged its shell. He tried to fix it with scotch tape just to "survive" for a period and then he decided to buy the replacements from AliExpress to bring back its EUC to his original shape. It costed him hundred of dollars.

After a few months I think he had troubles again (I dunno what happened) but it seems the shell is broken again. He knows I'm going to buy the Tesla and a few minutes ago he sent me a message with the picture I attach:  "Don't go for Tesla, it's a great wheel but damn it broke again in the very same place as before! I think I will soon go for another wheel, I'm tired to fix this Tesla!"

Is this Tesla really so weak and cheap in its building quality? Or was my friend particularly unlucky?! :(

Tesla danneggiato.jpg

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Have you priced Gotway shell parts? They seem 2 -4 times greater than KS or Inmotion. For example both shell sides costs 60-80 on both my V5 and KS16, whereas it's hundreds for my v3s.

Expect to replace shells at least a few times, as that is an expected cost, and if the company's replacement parts are high compared to its competitors, buy from a different company.

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1 minute ago, LanghamP said:

Have you priced Gotway shell parts? They seem 2 -4 times greater than KS or Inmotion. For example both shell sides costs 60-80 on both my V5 and KS16, whereas it's hundreds for my v3s.

Expect to replace shells at least a few times, as that is an expected cost, and if the company's replacement parts are high compared to its competitors, buy from a different company.

I don't know how much exaclty he paid for those parts but I remember he said something like 300$.
So you're saying that those replacement parts are much more expansive for GT than KS and InMotion and he should look for a different supplier with lower prices, correct?
Thanks :)

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1 hour ago, Snowball said:

I don't know how much exaclty he paid for those parts but I remember he said something like 300$.
So you're saying that those replacement parts are much more expansive for GT than KS and InMotion and he should look for a different supplier with lower prices, correct?
Thanks :)

The first line of the original post is

 

2 hours ago, Snowball said:

Coming from a KS16S, I'm thinking to buy this great 16".

Presumably, he is undecided on whether to buy the Tesla. I personally wouldn't, because historically I'd be likely to crash and require replacement shells.

Replacement shells should be cheap because they protect more valuable parts of the EUC. If they cost more than the protected parts, then they are cosmetic.

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I learned on my Tesla and crashed it plenty. The plastic strips around the bottom side can come off easily and snap back in easily. Other than that, I’ve had zero issues with the shell. I have to assume that he crashed the fuck out of it.

 

Are people jumping off these wheels at 30mph and crashing them into walls? I mean, you’ll get scratches due to the type of plastic, but getting an actual break will require a crash that most wont go through.

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47 minutes ago, Meelosh123 said:

Are people jumping off these wheels at 30mph and crashing them into walls?

Possibly. If a wheel just slides along the ground then it's not very likely to have much damage, but if it starts to tumble, especially if the angle cutoff doesn't work, then a huge amount of damage will occur (broken shell, shifted axle, ejected battery, etc...).

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1 hour ago, LanghamP said:

Possibly. If a wheel just slides along the ground then it's not very likely to have much damage, but if it starts to tumble, especially if the angle cutoff doesn't work, then a huge amount of damage will occur (broken shell, shifted axle, ejected battery, etc...).

You are ridiculous. I’ve had a ton of crashes that resulted in none of the bullshit you’re spouting. Are you serious?

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dont crash it, problem solved xD i dont think the shell is significantly weaker than anything else, perhaps its just due to the shape of it and its jagged edges which would be major weak points.. i sincerely doubt dropping it or jumping off at 10 kph would do any serious damage the pics you see of destroyed teslas are from people doing stupid stunts and crashing at 30 mph.. just dont do anything stupid and treat it as you would with any other expensive item

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2 hours ago, Meelosh123 said:

You are ridiculous. I’ve had a ton of crashes that resulted in none of the bullshit you’re spouting. Are you serious?

Here is a battery coming loose.

And coincidentally here's a Tesla crash which tumbled.

Anecdotally, I've had a few sheered screws, an ejected battery, a bent rim, and a shifted axle on various wheels. And replaced shells. And two destroyed trolleys. All from sub 15 mph crashes.

Again, if the wheel tumbles then it's going to sustain damage. I don't think wheels are ever quite right after a big tumble, and I wonder if it's because there's enough leverage in a crash to bend the axle.

Ask @EUC Extreme.

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My wife got more than 7,000 miles out of her Tesla. It took a beating well, first crash (mine) a few hundred miles in took out the top shell screws. Didn't really affect it the rest of its well-lived life. Much more capable than a 16S, no comparison, really. 

To post the "respect the beep" video is pretty lame. Any wheel will do that if pushed too far. Keep your Tesla under 30mph and you'll be good for a long, long time.

Signed, an actual Tesla owner. 

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